best sound deadening

[dragoonmc]

Hey all
I am going to be commuting about 45 miles each way to work for the next several years and would really really like to block out most of the road noise and then modify the sound system
but first is the sound deadening and I want some opinions on what the best system is going to be for this car. and by system I already know that the answer is not going to be a single layer of DynaMat. I have seen references to Overkill and Roadkill as well as MLV and CCFoam.
Please give me your opinions
Thanks

[Alien Mantis]

Oh, you would be surprised how much of a difference a single layer of Dynamat will provide if installed in the right places.
I'm in the process of doing this to my 2008 Yaris Hatch.
This car is NOISY. Practically NO attempt from the factory to deal with this issue.
So anything you do to it will help.
I'm using Stinger Roadkill Expert, and it's working great.
Cheaper than Dynamat too.
I got (12) 1'x2' panels. I should have a little left over when I am done.
I'm doing both doors, rear quarters, rear hatch area and hatch lid.
I can't wait to test it once I am finished. It should make a very noticeable difference.

[PSYS]

I think AM hit the nail on the head. I don't yet have a system in my Yaris but I've peeked in the trunk of my '07 sedan and there is absolutely nothing in the form of any insulation whatsoever.

I think whatever it is we do to it - it's bound to help in some way or another.

I'm not an expert by a long shot, but I know something is better than nothing.
I ended up ordering 25-sq. feet of GT Mat on eBay (the 80-mil) version for areas of my trunk, trunk lid and floor. *shrug* We shall see...

[dragoonmc]

I just don't want to do it and not be satisfied with the results and have to pull everything apart again

[Alien Mantis]

I just don't want to do it and not be satisfied with the results and have to pull everything apart again

I hear that.

I see so many people just wallpaper that sound deadening material on their panels. 100% coverage.
Even the companies that SELL this stuff tell you to do that.
You know why? They wanna sell more material to you!

You don't have to wallpaper it on every square inch.

But it really depends on what you are doing, and what you expect out of it.
Competition system? Wallpaper it.
Four 12's on a 2,000w RMS amp? Wallpaper it.
Trying to make your car SILENT while driving down a rough road? Wallpaper it.

The Yaris is a compact economy car. Toyota did not spend any time or materials on "sound control" in the cabin area.
The 3-door HB Yaris is an acoustic echo chamber. It's a metal shell that transmits all the road noise right to your head.
It NEEDS some help.
It doesn't even make sense to try and do a system in a Yaris unless you are going to do something to help control the noise.
I know from experience.
I did a small system in my Yaris, and lived with it for 2 years.
Finally I had to rip the panels back out and get some Roadkill in there.
The noise was just too annoying.
I found myself constantly cranking the volume to try and drown out all the road noise. Crazy.

:frown:

[david_827]

You don't have to wallpaper it on every square inch.

But it really depends on what you are doing, and what you expect out of it.
Competition system? Wallpaper it.
Four 12's on a 2,000w RMS amp? Wallpaper it.
Trying to make your car SILENT while driving down a rough road? Wallpaper it.


What about for those of us who don't plan on competing, but just want to put in a better system than stock? i've never done sound deadening before, so i wouldnt want to overspend on the material if i don;t have to...

[Alien Mantis]

What about for those of us who don't plan on competing, but just want to put in a better system than stock? i've never done sound deadening before, so i wouldnt want to overspend on the material if i don't have to...

I was in the same boat.
I just wanted to upgrade the system a little bit, but nothing radical.
The stock system is all mid-range. It really doesn't showcase the highs or the lows. This is why we upgrade our stock systems. We want "full range" reproduction. We want clarity and headroom.

I spent about $100 on some Stinger Roadkill and a little roller to apply it.
I did the doors, the rear quarters, the hatch lid, the spare-tire-well and rear shock towers.
It made a difference.
I just cut some tiles and stuck it wherever I could stick it. Larger areas got larger pieces. Smaller areas got smaller pieces. It all helps to dampen the sound waves. Some reports I have read say you only need to cover 25% of the surface area. I tried to do a little more than that.
The one thing to consider is: the areas that you do not dampen, will continue to transmit noise.
You can do all the areas I did, but the engine and firewall will still transmit noise. The roof will transmit noise. The floor. Anything you don't do, can still transmit noise.
It's hard to do the entire car. You can't strip your whole car and mummy-wrap it in sound deadener! The competition car audio guys get pretty close though!

It's totally up to YOU what you want to do, and how much you want to spend, and what results you expect to achieve.

In the world of "car audio", it's all about TIME and MONEY.
The more time and money you throw at it... the better it will be.
MY system is now at the $600 mark. It "sounds" like a $600 system.
I am happy with a $600 system.
Other people would think it sucks. They need a $4,000 system to make them happy.
Competition guys need a $25,000 system to make them happy. ( Probably MORE! )

It's all relative.

[pennyracer]

I would say any sound treatment is better than no sound treatment . I have 2 layers of raammatt and 1 layer of dynamat foam liner including the roof in my 08 hb . I love it and wont bother you with the cost of my whole $ound $ystem look at my garage if you want to see pics of most of the build and i still want to line the back of the interior car panels them self's for more noise kill . I care nothing about the weight becouse it not that much added to the hb and for those that think weight is everything get a bicycle to save weight :)

[Alien Mantis]

Most people I know have way more than $600-$800 in their systems.
If you take it to a shop, you get to pay labor costs as well as component costs.
I did all the work myself, so I don't count labor costs. I have spent MANY hours working on my system.

True, "anything" you do is better than nothing, but if you don't do "enough"... it won't really make a noticeable difference.

[pennyracer]

ya my focal 3 way component speakers i have in the front doors cost more than $800 http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/RANDOM-INSTALLS481.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/RANDOM-INSTALLS409_zps57c1013a.jpg

[Alien Mantis]

WOW.

Yeah, you wallpaper'd your Yaris! Looks good though. I'll bet it's alot quieter with all that material in there!
The Yaris Hatch sure needs it. Noisy little cars from the factory.

Yeah, Focal's are pricey. High-end stuff. What sub setup you running? Got any pics of it?
I just got these, and man are they great. Cheap too. $60 per sub, and $25 for the box. Good "bang for tha buck"!

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv182/Shadow_Tactix/Yaris/Infinity_3256.jpg

[pennyracer]

ya im sure that hits pretty hard for the little yaris i run a arc audio 1000x1 sub mono amp to amp 2 10" arc audio black line subs in a stealth sealed sub floor setup and 300.4 arc audio amp bridged to 2 channel putting out 351 watts a side true power have the test sheet to prove it from arc audio for the focal separates up front sounds very nice and loud without the rattles anyware in the car just the rear view mirror looking to replace that with a more solid built after market one when i find what i want here is a picture of the sub floor i have
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/DSCF0017.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/DSCF0018.jpg

[suckerface]

Man, I love your sub mount. My winter project is to build something like that. Beautiful, and very stealth!

[pennyracer]

thank you it has been a great sounding sub floor no regrets at all . i do want to sell it only to do a 4 10" sub floor next

[sqcomp]

PR - you should come down to Redding this Saturday. The satellite location for world SQ finals is happening at FRP Customs. You could probably get some ideas for your sub setup there.

You'd be able to shake hands with Fred Lynch from Arc Audio. Speaking of, what is the 300.4? Is it the KS line from Arc? Gotta get you into the SE line...

[pennyracer]

hi i think i will be there i talked to chris from frp customs about a project and he mentioned i should come check it out and see some of his work . the 300.4 is a kar series 300watt four channel amp i am running its bridged 2 channel for more power also i have thaught about upgrading to the s.e. arc audio series amp for the highs in my car but not sure how much cleaner souding the amp really is for the cost . are you going to have your ride down there in redding ?

[derickveliz2]

Deadening is not cheap and it's heavy! and very hard to install.

To block noise the most cost effective system is a combination of MLV+CCfoam and some sort of Mat (any kind)

MLV = Sound Barrier (1lb / sq-ft)
CCfoam = helps control high frequency noises
MAT = 30% coverage is good enough to control reverberations

D.

[pennyracer]

i have to disagree with the install of the matting being very hard to install and the weight. so if 1 sq ft is a pound in weight im okay with 50lbs or more no problem for the gain of peace and quiet while on the fwy . there are many ways to try to kill the road noise in the yaris mine is only one way of doing it and i really dont care what others use i have mine done the way i want and thats all that matters to me . oh that 30% bull shit is good enough coverage to controll reverberations not for me its to cover the whole panel not doing half of the panel that to me would half assed in my book. maybe we could check the numbers in your ride then mine for road noise readings and see who has the the lowest numbers care to take that bet ? i will have mine checked and list a number how about u=derickveliz2 ?

[Alien Mantis]

I'm sure both of your cars are quieter than mine.

I think it is hard to properly sound-deaden any car, because you have to strip off all the interior panels, ( which is a pain-in-the-ass by itself ), then you have to cut-trim-apply all the pieces. Then you have to re-assemble the interior.
It takes alot of time, and it's not fun. Everyone likes a quiet ride, and a good sound system, and it's alot of time and money to make it happen.

:frown:

[dragoonmc]

derick. what order would the MAT, tile, MLV go down?

[pennyracer]

i have to say the yaris is the easiest car i have owned and worked on inside and out. i have owned 30 cars or more through out the years you might look to some utube videos to see about the job you are looking to do . i think you could have all the interior out of the yaris in a hour or so thats how easy the yaris is to work on it takes time to do some jobs but the results are well worth it you never know inless you try im not sure you guys getting good advice from a guy who has near bone stock yaris and running down jobs he has not done himself yet he claims its to hard and cost to much what a joker sq comp and others can tell you the real story

[Alien Mantis]

I agree, the Yaris is very easy to strip-down compared to most other cars out there. Some people enjoy doing it. It's just not my thing. I did it because I didn't want to pay someone else to do it. And I am not comfortable with some underpaid "hack" ripping my interior out.

I'm certainly not trying to talk anyone out of doing it. I actually recommend it. The Yaris is noisy. It makes a noticeable difference.
Some cars are fairly quiet in stock form. The Yaris is not one of them.

[dragoonmc]

I am going to do it I just want to know what the best stuff is so I am completely happy with the result if I am going to dismantle the car to do it

[derickveliz2]

i have to disagree with the install of the matting being very hard to install and the weight. so if 1 sq ft is a pound in weight im okay with 50lbs or more no problem for the gain of peace and quiet while on the fwy . there are many ways to try to kill the road noise in the yaris mine is only one way of doing it and i really dont care what others use i have mine done the way i want and thats all that matters to me . oh that 30% bull shit is good enough coverage to controll reverberations not for me its to cover the whole panel not doing half of the panel that to me would half assed in my book. maybe we could check the numbers in your ride then mine for road noise readings and see who has the the lowest numbers care to take that bet ? i will have mine checked and list a number how about u=derickveliz2 ?

1.- Peel and stick is easy and fun. Take seats out, plastic panels and not break anything and don't forget every thing has to go back in place (very hard and time consuming)

2.- Weight! MLV is heavy! stands for Mass Loaded Vinyl AKA "lead". I'm not talking about another peal and stick, this is a thick layer dense as lead, same weight too.

3.- To really get good results you must put a full continuous layer on floor, wheel wells.

4.- This is the one that made me feel very uncomfortable to answer: about the 30% coverage to control resonances, you are going to ask why? it's easy knowledge is power, my suggestion is to read and learn, do a research before spilling up in the air, it may come back at you. Google my friend!

5.- My Yaris is a Challenge it self, if you didn't read it in my build I put my car next to BMWs, Mercedes Benz, Lexus and Volvos challenging road noise all the time, including my new 2012 Toyota Sienna that people claim has a very quite ride is no challenge for my Yaris at all; even when I was in the middle of deadening my car... Herbicidal (another yarisworld enthusiast) and my self performed a similar challenge like the one you are asking me to do. See post # 387 there are videos that tell the story.

6.- The Facts! This is what I would do and I would expect you to do: Get my best set of tires the ones that make less noise, pick a highway with new asphalt that is very quiet, and in a downhill, do it at 2 am in the morning when there is no traffic and very soft winds, and I can keep going with these variants that make such a test relative to conditions and unfair for testers, I found discrepancies even with meters; but I'll take any challenge you would like.

7.- I had people experience my car, for example ask "why" here in Yarisworld and/or read his testimonial at the bottom of my Presentation page, I took him for a ride on the highway!

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yarisito/yARISWEBv3.jpg

D.

[derickveliz2]

derick. what order would the MAT, tile, MLV go down?

On the floor/wheel wells... for example:

Apply Mat first directly on the metal (you only need 30% of the area on flat areas, you can use more but that is up to you)

Lay down a layer of CCFoam 1/4" or 1/8" (I did 1/4", the thicker the better but harder to put back seats and carpet)

Last a full layer of MLV.

D.

[derickveliz2]

I am going to do it I just want to know what the best stuff is so I am completely happy with the result if I am going to dismantle the car to do it

Check this LINK (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi) and/or talk to Don, tell him about me.

knowledge is power, any questions let us know!


D.

[derickveliz2]

What about for those of us who don't plan on competing, but just want to put in a better system than stock? i've never done sound deadening before, so i wouldnt want to overspend on the material if i don;t have to...

Jeje, you sound like me 2 years ago!

D.