2012 Fog relay

[Absolutely Red 12]

I cant seem to find the fog relay plug.
Remember his is a 2012, all previous diagrams dont mean squat!!

BTW, my 2012 already has a fog light loom under the hood!!

[CTScott]

There is none on the 2012. The fog light relay is built into the body ECU.

To see if it is enabled on your car, you can jump pin 3 to pin 4 on the headlight switch connector D106. Pin 3 will be brown or green (depending on if you have the OEM alarm) and Pin 4 will be green.

Jump those wires and have the ignition on and the headlight switch in the low beam position. If the fogs don't light then the relay is not in there. For the 2nd gens for instance the integrated relay for the power windows and locks is not present on cars that were not built with them (and there are different part number for the body ECU).



48579

[Absolutely Red 12]

There is none on the 2012. The fog light relay is built into the body ECU.

To see if it is enabled on your car, you can jump pin 3 to pin 4 on the headlight switch connector D106. Pin 3 will be brown or green (depending on if you have the OEM alarm) and Pin 4 will be green.

Jump those wires and have the ignition on and the headlight switch in the low beam position. If the fogs don't light then the relay is not in there. For the 2nd gens for instance the integrated relay for the power windows and locks is not present on cars that were not built with them (and there are different part number for the body ECU).



48579

CTScott

Thank you, I was getting that impression from reading the Prius C forums.

The fog harness behind the bumper is already there, as is the fog fuse.

I do not have the OEM alarm, so brown to green?
What wire is the parking light, if I cheese to not use low beam?
Is the illustration pin side, or wire side?


Again, thank you!:thumbsup:

[CTScott]

CTScott

Thank you, I was getting that impression from reading the Prius C forums.

The fog harness behind the bumper is already there, as is the fog fuse.

I do not have the OEM alarm, so brown to green?
What wire is the parking light, if I cheese to not use low beam?
Is the illustration pin side, or wire side?


Again, thank you!:thumbsup:

If you have the alarm or DRLs - Green to brown.
If you have neither alarm nor DRLs - Green to Green.


The connector illustration is looking at the pin side of the connector.


For the parking light turn on, it is a bit more complicated for the 2012, as for the ones with DRLs, that functionality is built into the body ECU, so it will be completely different for DRL vs. non-DRL Yaris. I would start with seeing if it works at all on a non-factory equipped car.

[Absolutely Red 12]

If you have the alarm or DRLs - Green to brown.
If you have neither alarm nor DRLs - Green to Green.


The connector illustration is looking at the pin side of the connector.


For the parking light turn on, it is a bit more complicated for the 2012, as for the ones with DRLs, that functionality is built into the body ECU, so it will be completely different for DRL vs. non-DRL Yaris. I would start with seeing if it works at all on a non-factory equipped car.


Got it, will let you know tonight.

Thanks again!

[Absolutely Red 12]

Pins 3&4 are violet, and green.
Jumping them does not turn the fogs on.
Using DVOM shows no voltage coming from either wire when turning on the
headlights.


http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/tvpostsound/IMG_0413.jpg?t=1348761813

[Absolutely Red 12]

OK. DISREGARD my last post.
I forgot to turn on the ignition DOOOOHHH!

Jumping the purple and green wires at 3&4 made the fogs go on!!
The light on the dash also works!!

Time to get some taps, and wire the switch.


Now taking this one step further, how do I make it work with park, low, high.

CT Scott, thank you for the help, also in advance!!

[CTScott]

OK. DISREGARD my last post.
I forgot to turn on the ignition DOOOOHHH!

Jumping the purple and green wires at 3&4 made the fogs go on!!
The light on the dash also works!!

Time to get some taps, and wire the switch.


Now taking this one step further, how do I make it work with park, low, high.

CT Scott, thank you for the help, also in advance!!

Do you have DRLs?

[Absolutely Red 12]

Do you have DRLs?

No DRLs.

Also now using a PIAA switch, as the cheap Chinese Toyota looking switch would not allow the fogs to turn off.

New switch is a 3 wire, internal lighting, when on. It also allows the dash icon to turn on!!

[CTScott]

No DRLs.

Also now using a PIAA switch, as the cheap Chinese Toyota looking switch would not allow the fogs to turn off.

New switch is a 3 wire, internal lighting, when on. It also allows the dash icon to turn on!!

You should use a four, not three wire switch. The illumination should be isolated from the switching.

I just noticed that for both the DRL and non-DRL Yaris the fog relay coil is tied directly to the body ECU internally in such a way that it prevents the fogs from turning on except when it decides it is OK to. You would have to either do some surgery on the body ECU or use an external relay and rewire the fogs to it to override that behavior.

[Absolutely Red 12]

You should use a four, not three wire switch. The illumination should be isolated from the switching.

I just noticed that for both the DRL and non-DRL Yaris the fog relay coil is tied directly to the body ECU internally in such a way that it prevents the fogs from turning on except when it decides it is OK to. You would have to either do some surgery on the body ECU or use an external relay and rewire the fogs to it to override that behavior.

Ok, Ill leave it like this for now.
The Chinese switch was a four, with isolated illumination. Wouldn't allow the fogs to turn off!! The three wire works as expected, Ill get another 4 wire to avoid future issues.

Thanks a bunch.:headbang:

[CTScott]

Ok, Ill leave it like this for now.
The Chinese switch was a four, with isolated illumination. Wouldn't allow the fogs to turn off!! The three wire works as expected, Ill get another 4 wire to avoid future issues.

Thanks a bunch.:headbang:

The one that came with the kit has some internal circuitry which ties the switching and illumination together. What you want is one where the two are truly isolated.

[Absolutely Red 12]

Philips CrystalVision Ultra 9003, and H11 in the Headlights and fogs.

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/tvpostsound/IMG_0416.jpg?t=1348801881

[Absolutely Red 12]

You should use a four, not three wire switch. The illumination should be isolated from the switching.

I just noticed that for both the DRL and non-DRL Yaris the fog relay coil is tied directly to the body ECU internally in such a way that it prevents the fogs from turning on except when it decides it is OK to. You would have to either do some surgery on the body ECU or use an external relay and rewire the fogs to it to override that behavior.


Scott,

The green wire is the trigger when the head lights lights go on, the violet loops to the other row. Looks like the Violet triggers the fog realy, and dash light.
Im having difficulty finding the wire that is live when the park/low/high get selected. :confused:

Do you have a wiring diagram for 2012??

[CTScott]

Scott,

The green wire is the trigger when the head lights lights go on, the violet loops to the other row. Looks like the Violet triggers the fog realy, and dash light.
Im having difficulty finding the wire that is live when the park/low/high get selected. :confused:

Do you have a wiring diagram for 2012??

The green wire is "activated" by the Body ECU, when it decided that it is OK to let the user turn the fogs on. Once it is active, shorting it ground (which is what the violet wire is tied to) at that time allows power to flow through the fog relay coil.

The blue wire in pin 18 is the one that is activated when the park or headlights are on. It is 12V with them off and then switches to ground with them on.

[Shroomster]

So dumb question, and sorry to necro-bump, but all I need to do in theory is get the foglight kit, plug the lights into the pre-existing harnesses, then tap the two wires to the switch and install it in place of a delete plug?

[CTScott]

So dumb question, and sorry to necro-bump, but all I need to do in theory is get the foglight kit, plug the lights into the pre-existing harnesses, then tap the two wires to the switch and install it in place of a delete plug?

Correct

[Shroomster]

Correct

Woot! Time to see what kind of deal I can get on an o.e.m kit from dealer through my job!

[06yarishb]

There is none on the 2012. The fog light relay is built into the body ECU.

To see if it is enabled on your car, you can jump pin 3 to pin 4 on the headlight switch connector D106. Pin 3 will be brown or green (depending on if you have the OEM alarm) and Pin 4 will be green.

Jump those wires and have the ignition on and the headlight switch in the low beam position. If the fogs don't light then the relay is not in there. For the 2nd gens for instance the integrated relay for the power windows and locks is not present on cars that were not built with them (and there are different part number for the body ECU).



48579

Sorry stupid question: what do you mean by jump pin 3 to pin 4? Is that mean you connect the pin 3 to pin 4? :smile: just got a 2012 yaris hb le and want to add the fog light on. Thanks

[CTScott]

Sorry stupid question: what do you mean by jump pin 3 to pin 4? Is that mean you connect the pin 3 to pin 4? :smile: just got a 2012 yaris hb le and want to add the fog light on. Thanks

With the 2012's to add fogs you simply install and connect the foglights on the front bumper and then install a switch that connects the wires in pins 3 and 4 together (i.e. jumps one wire to the other).

[Absolutely Red 12]

Sorry stupid question: what do you mean by jump pin 3 to pin 4? Is that mean you connect the pin 3 to pin 4? :smile: just got a 2012 yaris hb le and want to add the fog light on. Thanks

Remove the lower steering column cover.
Locate the connector shown in my picutre.
Tap the fog switch wires, one to the violet, and the other to the green wire.
The two by themselves.

You can alternatively not use a switch, and jump the two wires, they will go on, and stay on when the headlights are turned on.

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/tvpostsound/IMG_0413.jpg?t=1348761813

[Shroomster]

Looks like I will be getting a micro image fog light kit......Toyota fog kit is warranty replace only. PLUS get this: parts department showed me on screen that mid level LE trim does not/can not have fog lights installed from factory or aftermarket.....lmao......he sighed and laughed too, as that is what the screen inventory stated.....

[oohcory]

Looks like I will be getting a micro image fog light kit......Toyota fog kit is warranty replace only. PLUS get this: parts department showed me on screen that mid level LE trim does not/can not have fog lights installed from factory or aftermarket.....lmao......he sighed and laughed too, as that is what the screen inventory stated.....

has anyone with a 12' LE tried installing aftermarket fogs?

[CTScott]

has anyone with a 12' LE tried installing aftermarket fogs?

Yes. Besides Absolutely_Red, a few others have as well.

[Absolutely Red 12]

has anyone with a 12' LE tried installing aftermarket fogs?

All that is needed from the kits, are the lamps, fillers, and switch.
2012s have the wiring preinstalled.
As CTSott mentioned, the relay is integrated into the BCM.
You dont even need a switch!! If you want the fogs to always be on with the headlamps.


The lamps, if anyone is interested, are Camry interchange part numbers!!

[oohcory]

Remove the lower steering column cover.
Locate the connector shown in my picutre.
Tap the fog switch wires, one to the violet, and the other to the green wire.
The two by themselves.

You can alternatively not use a switch, and jump the two wires, they will go on, and stay on when the headlights are turned on.

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/tvpostsound/IMG_0413.jpg?t=1348761813

I for the life of me cannot find this. All that's below my steering column is an airbag? I'm a noob, little help please?

[CTScott]

I for the life of me cannot find this. All that's below my steering column is an airbag? I'm a noob, little help please?

You are looking too far down. You need to remove the lower steering column cover to find that connector (which is at the base of the headlight switch).

[oohcory]

You are looking too far down. You need to remove the lower steering column cover to find that connector (which is at the base of the headlight switch).

Oh ok, is there a trick to taking it off? Or is it just the three screws and pop her off

[CTScott]

Oh ok, is there a trick to taking it off? Or is it just the three screws and pop her off

Just the three screws and squeeze it by the seam to separate it.

[oohcory]

Just the three screws and squeeze it by the seam to separate it.

Thanks! I jumped it, everything's golden!
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f24/oohcory/Phone%20Photos/074D90C2-D4DD-4048-9328-6F6F42426718-4054-00000190AD8FEF61_zps5db04fed.jpg

[geoded]

Until after someone installed fog lights on 2012 Toyota Yaris? Pictures?

[geoded]

fog fuse

[geoded]

@Absolutely Red 12, You understand that you are including in FR FOG fuse?

[geoded]

OK. DISREGARD my last post.
I forgot to turn on the ignition DOOOOHHH!

Jumping the purple and green wires at 3&4 made the fogs go on!!
The light on the dash also works!!

Time to get some taps, and wire the switch.


Now taking this one step further, how do I make it work with park, low, high.

CT Scott, thank you for the help, also in advance!!


I'm sorry, but, I do not work. I have Yaris 1.4 d4d, 1ND-TV, I put the fuse, I jump the wires at 3 & 4 made ​​the fogs not go on! I started the engine and the fogs not go on. What can I do? Any idea?

[CTScott]

Jumping brown in 3 to green in 4 is correct for your TMMF built Yaris. The headlight switch must also be on and in low beam mode for the front fogs to light.

[geoded]

Yes, I did but it does not work.

[geoded]

maybe my car is different. what can I do?

[geoded]

but two? making pin 2?

[CTScott]

but two? making pin 2?

Pin 2 (light green wire) is for the rear fog light.

Do you have a multimeter? If so, measure the voltage on pin 4 with the jumper disconnected. If you do not see +12V on pin 4 with the jumper removed, then your body ECU may not have the front fog relay built inside of it.

[geoded]

Tomorrow I will check the voltage on pin 4. I do not think it's possible that my car not have the front fog relay built inside of it.

[geoded]

I will check the voltage on pin 4 with the jumper removed, engine start and the headlight switch must also be on and in low beam mode for the front fogs to light, and the fuse front fog is on you place.

[CTScott]

I will check the voltage on pin 4 with the jumper removed, engine start and the headlight switch must also be on and in low beam mode for the front fogs to light, and the fuse front fog is on you place.

Yes

[geoded]

Today I noticed something during testing. With the engine running, with brown for 3 to 4 green jump, and the headlight switch is on in position mode, the rear fogs can be on to light.

[CTScott]

Today I noticed something during testing. With the engine running, with brown for 3 to 4 green jump, and the headlight switch is on in position mode, the rear fogs can be on to light.

That makes sense as the rear fogs automatically light when the front fogs are on.

[geoded]

Today I tested, the values ​​are:
9.31 V with the engine running
8.53 V with the engine off

[geoded]

I found 12v at pin 17 :-) but not 4

[CTScott]

Pin 17 is the high beam flash signal to the body ECU.

No voltage on pin 4 says that the other end of that wire is not connected to what it should be.

I just noticed that the European Yaris wiring diagram does not show the front fog light relay as being within the body ECU. I am not sure where it is located, but you should see a small plastic box with two relay sockets in it that looks like this:

53541

[geoded]

the input voltage pin 4, but not 12 v, there exists 9.31 volts. Where should I look? Have a photo helpful?

[CTScott]

the input voltage pin 4, but not 12 v, there exists 9.31 volts. Where should I look? Have a photo helpful?

I don't know where it is. I only have the wiring diagram, which do not show the location.

[geoded]

perhaps he should be in the area

[CTScott]

That is a second generation layout. It could possibly be in that area as well for your third gen.

[apmatzen]

I've got a Yaris 2012, where the wires already are there and put some fog lights in it...do I need a push button to operate the fog lights or will the factory one do it?

The dealer says I need a relay and button to operate the front fog lights...

[CTScott]

I've got a Yaris 2012, where the wires already are there and put some fog lights in it...do I need a push button to operate the fog lights or will the factory one do it?

The dealer says I need a relay and button to operate the front fog lights...

Based on Geoded experience above, the European ones are prewired, but the switch and relay are required and the relay is separate from the body ECU, which is different than for the US market Yaris.

[apmatzen]

Thanks for your answer.

The dealer is charging 186€ for the switch and relay...:thumbdown:

Well, guess there is no other way...

[boooggy]

interesting...
here for fog switch and relay i payed like 80 euros (at dealer)

[CTScott]

The European Yaris fog light relay is: 90080-87021

The Tyco VFM-11F41-Z16 is an aftermarket equivalent, which is less than $10 US.

[lambros]

The European Yaris fog light relay is: 90080-87021

The Tyco VFM-11F41-Z16 is an aftermarket equivalent, which is less than $10 US.

That relay I use to my friend yaris...18€....dealer price 90€...the same job..

[geoded]

Wich wires turn on the foglights symbol in the instrument panel ?. Where is it located and what color wire is it? Thanks.

[ucsmfu]

where can I buy 2012 Yaris hatchback fog light kit ?

Thanks

[Eforno]

Remove the lower steering column cover.
Locate the connector shown in my picutre.
Tap the fog switch wires, one to the violet, and the other to the green wire.
The two by themselves.

You can alternatively not use a switch, and jump the two wires, they will go on, and stay on when the headlights are turned on.

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/tvpostsound/IMG_0413.jpg?t=1348761813

I tried PMing you but it didn't work for some reason; I see no record of it in my sent inbox. I've read this entire thread and I am still confused with how the wiring works. How exactly do you jump a wire? Scott's definition is to connect it with the switch, but how do I jump it without anything, as to test if the relay is there or what not. All I can think of when it comes to jumping a wire to to slice it open and then twisting it together.

[CTScott]

I tried PMing you but it didn't work for some reason; I see no record of it in my sent inbox. I've read this entire thread and I am still confused with how the wiring works. How exactly do you jump a wire? Scott's definition is to connect it with the switch, but how do I jump it without anything, as to test if the relay is there or what not. All I can think of when it comes to jumping a wire to to slice it open and then twisting it together.

Tap Splice connectors are the easiest way. They bite through the insulation on two pieces of wire to make the connection:

http://www.dallasmodelworks.com/products/micromark/accessories/84022.jpg

[Eforno]

Tap Splice connectors are the easiest way. They bite through the insulation on two pieces of wire to make the connection:

http://www.dallasmodelworks.com/products/micromark/accessories/84022.jpg

I thought of scotchlocks when Absolutely Red 12 mentioned tapping the wires from the fog switch to Pin 3 and 4; I was just confused about what it meant to "jump" a wire, because I wasn't expecting to have to splice into any wires just to "check/test" them. Instead, I thought using something like an alligator clip wire to clip onto each pin would work; because if I jumped 2 wires with a tap and they happened to be the wrong ones, I'll end up having to seal the plastic insulation of each wire, as caused by the removal of the tap. (I don't even know if using alligator clips to jump wires would work. I made that whole scenario up in my head w/o any electrical/wiring knowledge)


So just to clarify, to jump wires that are inserted into a connector, I should pull one of the wires w/ the pin out, cut the pin off, and then t-tap it to the pin wire that is still in the connector?

Another thing I can't really comprehend is, how is it that purple and green wire in Absolutely Red 12's picture pin 3 & 4, respectively, if when the connector is oriented like this: http://puu.sh/mtO4f.jpg.

And as for the fog light switch, can I just tap any of the two of the four switch wires to the purple or green pin wires? What do I do with the remaining two wires from the fog light switch? Fuse tap one of the wire to dash illumination, and ground the other wire?

I sorry I have so many questions, and I know many may have already been answered in other threads, but thank you so much for always answering CTScott :thumbup:

[CTScott]

That connector diagram is showing it from the pin side, so imagine flipping that diagram to the left, like flipping a page, then you are looking into pins 3 and 4 where the green and violet wires are.

If you wanted to test without crimping, you just stick a paperclip or piece of stripped wire into the back of those two wire holes to make contact with the pins.

To turn the fogs on you can splice those two wires in place - you do not need to cut them, as the OEM fog light switch would simply complete the connection between the two wires.

If you wanted to use a switch you could tap a wire separately to each and go from the wire to one of the switch contacts. You only need a single pole switch, so just two contacts are used.

[Eforno]

To turn the fogs on you can splice those two wires in place - you do not need to cut them, as the OEM fog light switch would simply complete the connection between the two wires.


I didn't know a t-tap/scotch lock (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/w225/m/mYlNx5BQQtUyEvOsfKYc8lg.jpg) can just combine 2 wires together without one end of a wire cut off. Or did you mean like stripping the middle of each wire and that twisting them together? And if I were to wire my fog lights this way, the fogs likes will be on & off with respect to my DRL, Low Beam, and Hi-Beam being on & off?


If you wanted to use a switch you could tap a wire separately to each and go from the wire to one of the switch contacts. You only need a single pole switch, so just two contacts are used.

I was actually planning to just use the four wire switch that comes with the fog light kit. So should the install be something like what I thought of before:


And as for the fog light switch, can I just tap any of the two of the four switch wires to the purple or green pin wires? What do I do with the remaining two wires from the fog light switch? Fuse tap one of the wire to dash illumination, and ground the other wire?


Thanks once again for the prompt reply! And I'm really sorry if it seems like I'm sounding too dense, I just want to make sure everything is correct before I start the install.

[CTScott]

I didn't know a t-tap/scotch lock (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/w225/m/mYlNx5BQQtUyEvOsfKYc8lg.jpg) can just combine 2 wires together without one end of a wire cut off. Or did you mean like stripping the middle of each wire and that twisting them together? And if I were to wire my fog lights this way, the fogs likes will be on & off with respect to my DRL, Low Beam, and Hi-Beam being on & off?


I was actually planning to just use the four wire switch that comes with the fog light kit. So should the install be something like what I thought of before:


Thanks once again for the prompt reply! And I'm really sorry if it seems like I'm sounding too dense, I just want to make sure everything is correct before I start the install.

Some are capped on one end for one wire, but most are open on both ends allowing tapping of two wires without cutting either.



If the kit was aftermarket you will likely not be able to use the switch, as the aftermarket foglight kits have internal circuitry which bridges the switching and illumination circuits. The OEM switch does not do this, so you would either need to modify the aftermarket switch or use a generic switch.

[Eforno]

Some are capped on one end for one wire, but most are open on both ends allowing tapping of two wires without cutting either.



If the kit was aftermarket you will likely not be able to use the switch, as the aftermarket foglight kits have internal circuitry which bridges the switching and illumination circuits. The OEM switch does not do this, so you would either need to modify the aftermarket switch or use a generic switch.

Ooo, I thought that all scotch locks had a sealed end on one side; thanks for letting me know. As for the a generic switch, would this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011KZUQFW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A15H3UKRB6RHF9) do?

Also I tried removed the lower switch panel (http://puu.sh/muVAW.jpg) with some prying toolstoday, but it just wouldn't budge. Can I just pry it open enough and than just apply controlled force to pull it off?

[CTScott]

Ooo, I thought that all scotch locks had a sealed end on one side; thanks for letting me know. As for the a generic switch, would this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011KZUQFW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A15H3UKRB6RHF9) do?

Also I tried removed the lower switch panel (http://puu.sh/muVAW.jpg) with some prying toolstoday, but it just wouldn't budge. Can I just pry it open enough and than just apply controlled force to pull it off?

I am not sure on the switch. Not enough info to tell.

I believe only the switch blank removes, not the whole panel. I personally have not taken apart a 3rd gen.

[Eforno]

I am not sure on the switch. Not enough info to tell.


Cheesus, the Toyota OEM Fog light switch is $46 on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-84160-04010-Fog-Light-Switch/dp/B008YVOLH0/):iono:. May you send me a link to a possible generic fog light switch that could work?

I believe only the switch blank removes, not the whole panel. I personally have not taken apart a 3rd gen.

I meant the "pull away" part of the picture, not the panel where the switches are - the panel cover that covers all the wires behind it.

[Eforno]

I am not sure on the switch. Not enough info to tell.


So after looking through eBay for the Micturning Switch I posted, it states:
• Upper light is ON when the switch is pressed IN.
• Lower light can be wired to separate dash light circuit.

I guess it's not going to work.

Will these switches (http://www.amazon.com/Support-Car-LED-Toggle-Switch/dp/B00S4J4U7S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1452867179&sr=8-6&keywords=fog+light+switch)be my only option?

[CTScott]

So after looking through eBay for the Micturning Switch I posted, it states:
• Upper light is ON when the switch is pressed IN.
• Lower light can be wired to separate dash light circuit.

I guess it's not going to work.

Will these switches (http://www.amazon.com/Support-Car-LED-Toggle-Switch/dp/B00S4J4U7S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1452867179&sr=8-6&keywords=fog+light+switch)be my only option?

No idea with those - There is no wiring diagram showing if the switch is isolated from the light. You need to find one (or contact the seller to verify) where the switch is one set of contacts and the light is isolated on another set of terminals.

[Eforno]

No idea with those - There is no wiring diagram showing if the switch is isolated from the light. You need to find one (or contact the seller to verify) where the switch is one set of contacts and the light is isolated on another set of terminals.

Thanks, I think I'll just get both switches and try them out. If they don't work I'll just tap them together with some t-taps and male connectors. Doesn't seem logical to spend 46$ on an oem switch, when the fog light kit is practically the same price. :drinking: