Toyota OEM Camber Bolt Part #

[DeathBeard]

Hi All,

thought this would be useful for those looking for a OEM option on adding some negative camber, IMO which this car deseperately needs. The most aggressive negative camber Toyota offers is with part # 90109-15004.. I had a tough time getting this print out as most Toyota parts people have the intelligence of concrete cinder blocks. When installing these I would recommend loading your suspension with a floor jack before tightening.

[DeathBeard]

when I get some coilovers, most likely megans I will definately be slotting the top hole

[DeathBeard]

Toyota part number 90109-15004 on top, this will give you nearly 2 deg of neg reliably, it's an oem part! And they are only $4 each!

[NJ Drive]

Toyota part number 90109-15004 on top, this will give you nearly 2 deg of neg reliably, it's an oem part! And they are only $4 each!

I'm using one 90109-15004 per side, on stock springs, and was able to get anywhere between -1.3° to -1.6°.

-2.0° would be a bit of a stretch.

[DeathBeard]

-1.3 seems strangely low for this bolt..My first reading with these was -1.7, after messing around with it and loading the strut with a floor jack I was able to get -1.9, I would consider that pretty close to -2.0, right??

[DeathBeard]

took my measurements again today and the front is -1.9

[DeathBeard]

front no longer rubs

[NJ Drive]

You are not on stock springs and/or stock ride height, correct?

[DeathBeard]

ride height does not effect camber w/ mcpherson strut design, only double wishbone does

[Jason@SportsCar]

no but macphesron strut is not depedant on that, only double wishbone is

Not entirely true... The lower arm is not flat at stock ride height, and the car will gain camber to a point as you lower it and the arm flattens out.

[DeathBeard]

I see your point Jason, I hadn't thought of the lower arm angle...I was visualizing only camber plates or crash bolts

[Thebigwicks]

Just picked up a set and hadn't really go a chance to fool with them yet. So do you just install them on the top hole and that's all? Still don't understand how they work.

[Caramanos2000]

Got these today for $8 at the stealership. Anyways they work by letting you push the wheel in at the top. This happens because the outside diameter is smaller and thereby gives you some "play room".Just picked up a set and hadn't really go a chance to fool with them yet. So do you just install them on the top hole and that's all? Still don't understand how they work.

[CrankyOldMan]

The stock bolts should be the ones without dots. You replace both bolts with the new ones (3 dots) and tilt the hub as far in as you can, then snug the nuts over them. I suggest taking it to an alignment shop and have them set it as negative as possible, with the castor and toe set to nominal if possible.

The chart below shows how to mix and match OEM bolts to get a desired camber from a known configuration or offset. The green box is the default OEM setup. If you want to get -1.5°, you need set F, which is 2x 90109-15004.

[Thebigwicks]

Okay, that makes sense. I picked up part number 90109-15004 and I have never changed any bolts. So it's safe to say that I have the regular or own setup still unless there was variation from year to year. I plan on installing the bolts on the top holes of each side. Sound about right?

[CrankyOldMan]

For maximum camber, you use them in the top and bottom. I don't see the combination you're suggesting in the tables, so it's either redundant with another combo or does very little.

[Thebigwicks]

For maximum camber, you use them in the top and bottom. I don't see the combination you're suggesting in the tables, so it's either redundant with another combo or does very little.

Ill mess with them tomorrow and post my results. just have to figure out how to measure camber correctly now. Ill get an alignment so maybe ill just take the readings from there...

[Ben_]

I'm starting to look at using OE bolts for camber for racing application. I would like -3 using OE bolts and/or other procedures documented by the OE (as per scca rules) which could be making the mounting holes larger. My suspension is stock otherwise

[Thebigwicks]

I installed these today and just pushed the top of the hub in as far as they could go. Go a decent amount of camber, but I was wondering if there is any way to measure exactly how much I achieved? Also I'm not sure that any other bolt combination would make a difference.

[Ben_]

You need to have that done on an alignment rack. Also changing camber changes toe and caster settings so I definitely suggest doing so to avoid bad tire wear

[Thebigwicks]

You need to have that done on an alignment rack. Also changing camber changes toe and caster settings so I definitely suggest doing so to avoid bad tire wear

I do my own alignments man. I appreciate you looking out for me though!

[Thebigwicks]

Might take it to a shop Monday just for fun though.

[Ben_]

Sure thing dude. I've seen ads for a "free alignment check" from tire stores try it out

[Thebigwicks]

I wish we had those around here. I'm going pay 130 Monday for a fancy allighnment that has an alignment rack on the ground. Low life problems.