Boo for 3 step Maguire's

[awitate]

My wife and I both have Yarises mine is blue hers is grey (yes, its so Masculine!). I busted my ass for about 3 hours (using an Orbital buffer for removal no less) and My car is shiny but wait hers is too and hers isn't waxed. I had a feeling as I went through each step that all I was doing was applying a more concentrated wax than the previous step. For this much work I could have used 3 coats of regular wax and have 3 times the protection. Because after all you can't make a stock Yaris paint job look like a custom 12 coat lacquer job no matter how awsome your wax is.

[Razr]

As you noted it's not a show car paint job, so of course you don't expect a show car result, BUT, what you should expect though is a very clean finish (as a result of step 1), enhanced depth of color (as a result of step 2), and a "wet" look to the finish (as a result of step 2 & 3).

Obviously you can't compare color-depth between different colored cars, but you should notice the following:

1. Look at the paint from a close distance (say a foot or so) - you should be able to see "into" the paint rather than just the paint surface - this is depth of color.

2. Look at the paint from yard or so and move your head around to view it from different light angles - it should look like it's "wet"

Here's some personal recommendations/tips:

Polish (i.e. step 2 - not the wax in step 3) should *always* be applied and removed by hand - the friction created by machines will generate too much heat and it just won't get into the finish. You should also not let polish dry - work in small sections applying the product slowly and methodically, then remove it by hand before it dries. This is also why you must always polish and wax in the shade, with cool paint - hot paint will dry out the polish before it can get into the finish.

Normally I wouldn't recommend removing wax (step 3) with a machine either as it will almost certainly disrupt (or even totally kill if you get too much friction/heat happening) the polymer bonding process - this is especially true if you're not giving the wax time to bond overnight. Machines however are great for applying wax as you can get a nice thin, even layer of product down on the finish, which will in turn mean that hand removal is a snap.

Polish gets into the finish, while wax bonds to the surface of the finish..

[Pavel Olavich]

As you noted it's not a show car paint job, so of course you don't expect a show car result, BUT, what you should expect though is a very clean finish (as a result of step 1), enhanced depth of color (as a result of step 2), and a "wet" look to the finish (as a result of step 2 & 3).

Obviously you can't compare color-depth between different colored cars, but you should notice the following:

1. Look at the paint from a close distance (say a foot or so) - you should be able to see "into" the paint rather than just the paint surface - this is depth of color.

2. Look at the paint from yard or so and move your head around to view it from different light angles - it should look like it's "wet"

Here's some personal recommendations/tips:

Polish (i.e. step 2 - not the wax in step 3) should *always* be applied and removed by hand - the friction created by machines will generate too much heat and it just won't get into the finish. You should also not let polish dry - work in small sections applying the product slowly and methodically, then remove it by hand before it dries. This is also why you must always polish and wax in the shade, with cool paint - hot paint will dry out the polish before it can get into the finish.

Normally I wouldn't recommend removing wax (step 3) with a machine either as it will almost certainly disrupt (or even totally kill if you get too much friction/heat happening) the polymer bonding process - this is especially true if you're not giving the wax time to bond overnight. Machines however are great for applying wax as you can get a nice thin, even layer of product down on the finish, which will in turn mean that hand removal is a snap.

Polish gets into the finish, while wax bonds to the surface of the finish..

I agree with Razr, but want to add that after the "treatment" when one feels the paint with their finger tips, the paint feels MUCH more silky smooth slippery...compare with your wife's Yaris and yours after the treatment and you'll know what I mean.

[rstb88]

silver always looks well maniucured, due to its nature its very hard to find flaws in it if your not looking