ok seriously need help...

[caineroad]

Tonight was a raining night. I drove to my local supermarket and get some food. I came out, started my car and I realized the rear deforester light is on (but i didn't turn it on), so i tried to push the button but the light wouldn't turn off. So I thought no big deal, I might just have to restart my car.

So I stopped, turn off my car and then start it back up. This time the gear shifter(AT) wouldn't shift down from P!! So I knew something is wrong with the car, but I had to get home so I took out the small cover to get access to the shift button, in order to get it shift to D. At this time, I also realized the passenger air bag(I had a passenger at that time) had no light, the red airbag warning light on the dash came on, the battery warning light came on(flickers rapidly). The fans also didn't work, although the console light works(it was night time). So I still insisted to drive back home, because it was late and dealership were closed I couldn't bring my car in for repair.

I continued driving back home, only to realize the signal no longer works. I didn't turn on my headlights, cuz I wanted to preserve the battery. Oncoming cars were flashing me with their high beams, I had to turn on the hazard lights instead. Luckily I made it home, but the problem still not yet resolved. Anyone have any idea?

I have a voltmeter in my headunit, and it was displaying 12.3V (+1/-1) when I was driving back home, so obviously the battery wasn't charging.

At home, I used a multimeter to test the battery directly, is showing me 12.16V when the car is started.

What I have done so far:
Cleaning the battery terminal with paper towels, and make sure they are snug fit.

What I have done before this occurs:
Installing driver side heated seat

What is the problem??

help!

[CTScott]

Check the 60A MAIN fuse, which is one of the two giant fuses built into the positive battery terminal assembly.

[caineroad]

Thanks Scott,

I checked the fuse, doesn't seem like it is blown/melted

below are some pics i took:
http://i47.tinypic.com/syr2br.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/6glu2t.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/2pttils.jpg

[ilikerice]

time for a new alternator sounds like...

[caineroad]

I changed the alternator in 2009 Winter, it goes bad so fast??

Is there a way to test alternator without going through the battery? I have a multimeter in hand.

[CTScott]

Thanks Scott,

I checked the fuse, doesn't seem like it is blown/melted

below are some pics i took:
http://i47.tinypic.com/syr2br.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/6glu2t.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/2pttils.jpg

It doesn't look like either is popped, but it is sure acting like it. Check the 7.5A ALT-S fuse in the under hood fuse box. Also check the ACC2 fuse on the upper left corner of the under dash panel (behind the change cup) and Gauge fuses in the under dash one (up above the brake pedal).

[caineroad]

It doesn't look like either is popped, but it is sure acting like it. Check the 7.5A ALT-S fuse in the under hood fuse box. Also check the ACC2 fuse on the upper left corner of the under dash panel (behind the change cup) and Gauge fuses in the under dash one (up above the brake pedal).

OK, I will get them checked right now. But first I need to look back and see which fuse is which... have no idea at the moment.

Does the ECU automatically cut off the fan and gear shifter when it senses voltage is low and/or no charging occurring?

[caineroad]

I checked the fuses, ACC2 and 7.4A ALT-S are fine, but the gauge fuse is blown. I will get it replaced tomorrow, is this the culprit of not charging?

7.5A ALT-S
http://i45.tinypic.com/2zqvs0j.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/mli74.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/2q0jek4.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/5bs18z.jpg

ACC2 7.5A
http://i48.tinypic.com/1zm1hfo.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/dddt6t.jpg

Gauge 10A
http://i47.tinypic.com/32zugbq.jpg



---
edit: I read somewhere about this gauge 10A is connected to the ignition wire. When I installed the seat heater, I install the ON wire to the white ignition wire(pin 4 of connector 4F) behind the change box, instead of the one 'pink' (under the steering wheel). Not sure if that would make any difference. Is there anyway I can improve it so it does not blow next time?

[CTScott]

I checked the fuses, ACC2 and 7.4A ALT-S are fine, but the gauge fuse is blown. I will get it replaced tomorrow, is this the culprit of not charging?

7.5A ALT-S
http://i45.tinypic.com/2zqvs0j.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/mli74.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/2q0jek4.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/5bs18z.jpg

ACC2 7.5A
http://i48.tinypic.com/1zm1hfo.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/dddt6t.jpg

Gauge 10A
http://i47.tinypic.com/32zugbq.jpg



---
edit: I read somewhere about this gauge 10A is connected to the ignition wire. When I installed the seat heater, I install the ON wire to the white ignition wire(pin 4 of connector 4F) behind the change box, instead of the one 'pink' (under the steering wheel). Not sure if that would make any difference. Is there anyway I can improve it so it does not blow next time?

The GAUGE fuse is ignition switched and is the power source for the shift lock, amongst other things. It does not have enough surplus to run the control line of your seat heaters. The pink wire at the ignition switch (per my DIY) does.

[caineroad]

The GAUGE fuse is ignition switched and is the power source for the shift lock, amongst other things. It does not have enough surplus to run the control line of your seat heaters. The pink wire at the ignition switch (per my DIY) does.

Oh i see, that's the problem..! Thanks man.

Actually i was following the DIY. Not sure if I am reading it right, english is not my first language. It says 'Ignition switched power connection: The white wire in pin 4 of connector 4F (the white wire on the lower right of the connector below).'

So i just followed that.:confused:

You are the best... so knowledgeable, thanks for helping and contributing to this forum! we love u!

[CTScott]

Oh i see, that's the problem..! Thanks man.

Actually i was following the DIY. Not sure if I am reading it right, english is not my first language. It says 'Ignition switched power connection: The white wire in pin 4 of connector 4F (the white wire on the lower right of the connector below).'

So i just followed that.:confused:

You are the best... so knowledgeable, thanks for helping and contributing to this forum! we love u!

OK - That is correct - I did say to use that pin in the DIY, and it worked fine for mine. There is less extra current supply capability on that pin than the pink on the ignition switch connector (which I usually recommend for IG switched power). In my DIY I add relay to make the seat heaters ignition switched and that relay coil only draws 75mA. In your case it appears that the harness of the seat heaters you purchased have the ignition switching relay built in (since you have two red power wires, one marked "ON"). Did you get a wiring diagram with them that actually states that that is the case?

[fnkngrv]

Who is the vendor for your heated kits?

[CTScott]

Who is the vendor for your heated kits?

I personally like the cobraheat.com ones, as I have now used them on 3 vehicles. He bought some ebay ones.

[fnkngrv]

I personally like the cobraheat.com ones, as I have now used them on 3 vehicles. He bought some ebay ones.

http://www.cobraheat.com/

Best way to go as you know that I did as well. I have a couple buddies here now too that installed his motorcycle kits which they LOVE since it helps with fatigue during long duration rides.

[caineroad]

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180870408503?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_606wt_1037

i bought it from here, i like the cobra one but i like the dial switch in this better, also has more adjustable level of heat. It comes with a relay already in this kit and is cheaper too. Heat up really fast. Can be considered.

[caineroad]

OK - That is correct - I did say to use that pin in the DIY, and it worked fine for mine. There is less extra current supply capability on that pin than the pink on the ignition switch connector (which I usually recommend for IG switched power). In my DIY I add relay to make the seat heaters ignition switched and that relay coil only draws 75mA. In your case it appears that the harness of the seat heaters you purchased have the ignition switching relay built in (since you have two red power wires, one marked "ON"). Did you get a wiring diagram with them that actually states that that is the case?

Yea but i lost the wiring diagram, will have to contact them again. I now have the pink ignition wire connected to the ON wire. Will be getting a new fuse tomorrow, will see how that goes. I will also confirm it with the wiring diagram later once they send me, hopefully it won't blow again lol.

thanks!

[caineroad]

According to the manual i received,

ON wire - connect to ignition, 12V - 5amp circuit
red wire - connect to accessory, 12V - 20amp circuit

The way I connect the red wire to the spade terminal in the DIY, is it going to be ok?

[CTScott]

According to the manual i received,

ON wire - connect to ignition, 12V - 5amp circuit
red wire - connect to accessory, 12V - 20amp circuit

The way I connect the red wire to the spade terminal in the DIY, is it going to be ok?

OK - The big question is just how much current the ON wire is drawing. Apparently it is more than just the switching current of a relay coil.

You could connect the ON wire to the high current spade (along with the other red), but you would lose ignition switching for the seat heaters. You could add another relay, per my DIY, and do the ignition switching that way.

[caineroad]

OK - The big question is just how much current the ON wire is drawing. Apparently it is more than just the switching current of a relay coil.

You could connect the ON wire to the high current spade (along with the other red), but you would lose ignition switching for the seat heaters. You could add another relay, per my DIY, and do the ignition switching that way.

Thanks Scott, I will consider both options.

At the mean time, I bought a new fuse, drove to work this morning no problems, but when I hit reverse(to parking), the airbag warning light came on again. Instantly I know it was the fuse blowing out again.

But I didn't realize it was the reverse causing the problem, I thought it was the seat heater acting up again, I was so frustrated. I took out the seat heater connections, so it is not connected to the car. This time I put a new fuse in. Started the car up, it blew again... wtf

So apparently it could not be the seat heater causing the blow out, right?

I have a reverse camera tapped to the cigarette lighter line, and the reverse signal light connected to(if i remember correctly behind the change box)

I actually had the reverse camera for 3-4 months already without trouble.

Have I made enough testing that the seat heater should not be the culprit but something else, maybe the reverse camera?

Beg for any idea... dealership is charging me $105 for a diagnosis fee if i want to get it checked up...:eek:

The only difference is that this time the voltage is not draining, whats going on?

[CTScott]

The back-up lights run off the GAUGE fuse (literally the bulbs are powered by it, so that makes perfect sense why adding some extra load it and then turning on those bulbs makes the fuse pop).

I would check for a nicked wire or frayed end where you made your connections for both the back-up camera and the seat heater. You might have damaged a wire, while you were working in that tight space.

[caineroad]

The back-up lights run off the GAUGE fuse (literally the bulbs are powered by it, so that makes perfect sense why adding some extra load it and then turning on those bulbs makes the fuse pop).

I would check for a nicked wire or frayed end where you made your connections for both the back-up camera and the seat heater. You might have damaged a wire, while you were working in that tight space.

Good point! I will check it now.

[caineroad]

I checked the seat heater connections (only two red and 1 black)

they look like new, not touching any bare metals.

But I realized the seat heater ground(black) is in the same chassis bolt as the reverse camera ground, does that going to cause a short?

The reverse camera power cables (+/-) and signal cable, with extensions, they all look fine... no burnt, or touching the chassis.

I want to unplug everything from the reverse camera and see if my gauge fuse still blows. But fuses are here are not cheap, is there anyway I can use a multimeter to test, instead of putting a new fuse in?

[CTScott]

I checked the seat heater connections (only two red and 1 black)

they look like new, not touching any bare metals.

But I realized the seat heater ground(black) is in the same chassis bolt as the reverse camera ground, does that going to cause a short?

The reverse camera power cables (+/-) and signal cable, with extensions, they all look fine... no burnt, or touching the chassis.

I want to unplug everything from the reverse camera and see if my gauge fuse still blows. But fuses are here are not cheap, is there anyway I can use a multimeter to test, instead of putting a new fuse in?


Grounds should all be "shorted" together.

If you have a multimeter that measures current (A), you could connect the meter leads in place of the fuse to see how much current is being drawn on that circuit. If you do not, disconnect the battery and measure the resistance (ohms) between one of the fuse holes (the little holes in the top of a plugged in fuse) and ground.

[caineroad]

Grounds should all be "shorted" together.

If you have a multimeter that measures current (A), you could connect the meter leads in place of the fuse to see how much current is being drawn on that circuit. If you do not, disconnect the battery and measure the resistance (ohms) between one of the fuse holes (the little holes in the top of a plugged in fuse) and ground.

Great, my ground is not messed up!

I actually did what you said about the multimeter, but not sure if I was doing it right. I switched the car on to ACC position, so that supposedly the fans would come on. But without the fuse, no air was coming out, I turn the A setting to 10m, it's giving me 36amps.

But when i do the same to the cigarette lighter fuse, again with the fuse unplugged and I stuck the two probes in the fuse socket, it's showing me 1 (i guess infinity it means). Isn't this suppose to give me 15amps or less (rated fuse is 15amps)

So what should be the normal amps if there is no short??

Thanks:smile:

[CTScott]

Great, my ground is not messed up!

I actually did what you said about the multimeter, but not sure if I was doing it right. I switched the car on to ACC position, so that supposedly the fans would come on. But without the fuse, no air was coming out, I turn the A setting to 10m, it's giving me 36amps.

But when i do the same to the cigarette lighter fuse, again with the fuse unplugged and I stuck the two probes in the fuse socket, it's showing me 1 (i guess infinity it means). Isn't this suppose to give me 15amps or less (rated fuse is 15amps)

So what should be the normal amps if there is no short??

Thanks:smile:


You typically have to move the leads to another set of holes when measuring current. 10m for current would be 10 mA, which is very little current, so you are overloading the meter. You should have the meter set to its highest current rating (which is probably only 10A).

[caineroad]

You typically have to move the leads to another set of holes when measuring current. 10m for current would be 10 mA, which is very little current, so you are overloading the meter. You should have the meter set to its highest current rating (which is probably only 10A).

Here is how my multi looks:
http://i49.tinypic.com/ea3vwk.jpg

Are you saying one lead goes to the gauge socket, the other lead goes to another empty socket?

I measured this was the same result as I measure from both leads to the same gauge socket

result were:
200 - 1
2000 - 1
20m - 1
200m - 36.7
10A - 0.04

So it's less than 0.04A I suppose, while the car is in ACC mode.

I hope this is the right figures? I am going to unplug the camera and put the car in reverse and see what the Amp says.

[CTScott]

Here is how my multi looks:
http://i49.tinypic.com/ea3vwk.jpg

Are you saying one lead goes to the gauge socket, the other lead goes to another empty socket?

I measured this was the same result as I measure from both leads to the same gauge socket

result were:
200 - 1
2000 - 1
20m - 1
200m - 36.7
10A - 0.04

So it's less than 0.04A I suppose, while the car is in ACC mode.

I hope this is the right figures? I am going to unplug the camera and put the car in reverse and see what the Amp says.



You need to turn the knob to 10A. You clipped the bottom, so I can't see the holes, but it looks like there is a 10A hole on the left. One lead goes there and the other in common.

[caineroad]

OK! got it to work with 10A! It's showing me good result in reverse (4-5amps). In Park it's showing 0.05amps. I just put a new fuse in, no problems when i put in reverse, so far so good. But I have disconnected my reverse camera(signal wire) and all the connections from seat heater. It seems like the signal wire from reverse camera might be the culprit, since the extension I made, the wire is thinner than the original wire, i think that might be the reason. Like the original wire might be a 16AWG, but i put a 24AWG wire for extension, I think that's why. But It hasn't got any problems for the past few months. I will definitely put an eye on it and in the future I will start hooking back up the heated seats, and then finally the reverse camera(After I fixed the wiring). I think I should be good, at least now I know how to test current without a fuse.

Thanks a lot, really appreciate your time! <3