Blitz S/C + Cruise Control?

[47_MasoN_47]

Any of you Blitz guys know a way to make the S/C work with cruise control? Since the Blitz turns on via the throttle position, the cruise apparently doesn't trigger this so the boost is always off. If I'm going down the interstate and come to a hill I have to push the gas pedal just enough to get the S/C to kick in or the yaris will downshift and run the hill at 4500rpm rather than 3000 w/ boost. Does anyone know a way to make the S/C active while cruise is on?

FYI 2009 Yaris 1.5 w/ automatic.

[cali yaris]

This happens even on "Low", where the s/c kicks in at 25% throttle?

[CTScott]

That is correct. The ECM controls the throttle without modifying the output from the accelerator, so the Blitz controller does not see throttle actuation and hence does not activate the pulley when CC is on.

The only way that I can see of having boost with the OEM CC is to use an AEM FIC in place of the Blitz controller and have two maps for the FIC, one with no S/C and on with S/C. Then, you manually drive the SC pulley relay with a switch, and use the feed from that switch as the map switching input to the FIC. Doing it this way you only have on and off for the Blitz, as opposed to off and three levels of actuation.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm. I haven't looked into what all is required to go the F/IC route. Is that worth doing in the sense of accomplishing more than just allowing me to do SC while CC?

Do you know of any way to "trick" the Blitz controller into thinking that the throttle position is different than the ECU reports?

[CTScott]

Hmm. I haven't looked into what all is required to go the F/IC route. Is that worth doing in the sense of accomplishing more than just allowing me to do SC while CC?

Do you know of any way to "trick" the Blitz controller into thinking that the throttle position is different than the ECU reports?


The advantage of using a F/IC with the blitz is that the blitz fuel controller is really just intended to be used with an otherwise stock car. Adding things like an intake can make the engine run lean, so the F/IC would allow you to compensate.

There really isn't an easy way of fooling the blitz controller so that it uses the S/C with CC.

[47_MasoN_47]

I probably should do that anyway. Mine throws a lean error in the ECU when I do big burnouts, which is kindof annoying and unsettling.

[CTScott]

I probably should do that anyway. Mine throws a lean error in the ECU when I do big burnouts, which is kindof annoying and unsettling.

Lean is definitely bad. You need to either go back to the stock airbox, or go the F/IC route.

[47_MasoN_47]

I don't even have the stock airbox anymore haha. Guess I'll start saving up for an F/IC.

[CTScott]

I don't even have the stock airbox anymore haha. Guess I'll start saving up for an F/IC.

If you read through LtNoogie's thread on his Blitz install, he actually did some experimentation with covering over a portion of his intake to bring the AFR down. You could do that as a temporary measure, until you tune with a F/IC, to avoid detonating.

[47_MasoN_47]

Do you have an AFR meter deal thing that you would recommend installing? Or some way to easily read out the AFR? I'm not sure if you can read that straight off the ECU or not, but I have torque on my droid that can read a lot of stuff off of there.

[CTScott]

Do you have an AFR meter deal thing that you would recommend installing? Or some way to easily read out the AFR? I'm not sure if you can read that straight off the ECU or not, but I have torque on my droid that can read a lot of stuff off of there.

I use my YarGauge to display it in realtime (I use the Toyota enhanced diagnostics protocol, so I can read it faster than a standard OBDII device can). Torque may be able to display it. It won't be realtime, but should at least give you a decent idea as to how lean you are going.

[47_MasoN_47]

Is the YarGauge for sale yet? I've got a sedan, seems like that was a problem before but it's been a while since I read about it. I'll try it with torque. Do you know what the AFR is supposed to be?

[CTScott]

Is the YarGauge for sale yet? I've got a sedan, seems like that was a problem before but it's been a while since I read about it. I'll try it with torque. Do you know what the AFR is supposed to be?

I never actually brought it to market, since the daylight readable OLED display brought it to a price tag that I though was too expensive. I am currently working on a version of it where it is a WiFi dongle that plugs into the diagnostic connector and then it can be accessed by app on iOS, Android, or PC.

The ECM will try like heck to keep the AFR at 14.7 once the car is warmed up (~13.8 during cold start). During DFCO it will sit at 18.0. When in boost you really want it under 13 and ideally 12 or a bit less at WOT with the S/C.

[47_MasoN_47]

Ok. I've noticed that when the car is cold it doesn't want to build any boost. It drives weird until its warmed up. Thanks for the info. I'll see if torque can read it when I leave for work... if my ODBII is still in the car anyway.

[CTScott]

Ok. I've noticed that when the car is cold it doesn't want to build any boost. It drives weird until its warmed up. Thanks for the info. I'll see if torque can read it when I leave for work... if my ODBII is still in the car anyway.

You might want to check for a manifold leak. Mine boosts the same cold (even at 0 F) as warm.

[47_MasoN_47]

What's the best way to do that? Seems like if there was a leak it would have janky boost even when warm though wouldn't it?

[CTScott]

What's the best way to do that? Seems like if there was a leak it would have janky boost even when warm though wouldn't it?

I'm thinking that once things expand it stops leaking. The best way to tell is to put a vacuum/boost gauge on the port on the Blitz manifold.

[47_MasoN_47]

I've got one of those on there already. When I get on it when the car is cold it seems to just sit at 0 until it gets warm. Think I just need to tighten the S/C down on the manifold or tighten the manifold down to the block?

[CTScott]

I've got one of those on there already. When I get on it when the car is cold it seems to just sit at 0 until it gets warm. Think I just need to tighten the S/C down on the manifold or tighten the manifold down to the block?

Maybe. You might have a slight leak that seals up when things swell with heat. With the switch in the "low" position, I see boost pulling out of my driveway.

[47_MasoN_47]

Here's a little video of how it's behaving.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-wgrJeqEMc

The gauges are (left to right) boost, oil pressure, oil temperature.

[CTScott]

The other thing it may be, besides the seal leaking, is the belt slipping.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm. I need some way to put a camera in the engine bay so I can see what's going on in there while the engine is under load. The belt has been letting one or two little squeaks upon startup lately, but it's been behaving like this ever since I've had boost (this is not the same belt I started with).

Also, checked the AFR and it seems to hover around the 14.7 range even when under pretty heavy throttle. Is that a dangerous level to run with S/C?

[CTScott]

Hmm. I need some way to put a camera in the engine bay so I can see what's going on in there while the engine is under load. The belt has been letting one or two little squeaks upon startup lately, but it's been behaving like this ever since I've had boost (this is not the same belt I started with).

Also, checked the AFR and it seems to hover around the 14.7 range even when under pretty heavy throttle. Is that a dangerous level to run with S/C?

14.7 is dangerous under boost and would explain why you sometimes get the lean code.

For the cold boost issue, I would tighten the belt a few more turns of the bolt and see if that does it. My experience is that if the belt squeals for a second on start-up that it definitely will slip when the S/C engages.

[47_MasoN_47]

Blarg. I emailed Garm about it, seems like he said that he had a means to tune that Blitz controller thing to compensate for being lean.

I'll try tightening the belt and see what happens. For good measure I'll go ahead and make sure all the manifold bolts are tight too.

[CTScott]

Blarg. I emailed Garm about it, seems like he said that he had a means to tune that Blitz controller thing to compensate for being lean.

I'll try tightening the belt and see what happens. For good measure I'll go ahead and make sure all the manifold bolts are tight too.

Larger injectors and higher fuel pressure are a couple tricks that people have used, besides switching to a F/IC.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm... what injectors would you recommend? Also would that be cheaper than going the F/IC route? I mean I still want to do it at some point, but I can't afford to drop another g right now.

[cali yaris]

^ 1ZZ injectors are the next size up.

[CTScott]

Hmm... what injectors would you recommend? Also would that be cheaper than going the F/IC route? I mean I still want to do it at some point, but I can't afford to drop another g right now.

The 1ZZ injectors can be picked up used for around $100 for a set.

[47_MasoN_47]

Ok cool, well I've got a set of 1zz from a Celica coming. I really wish I had thought/known about this earlier... my fiance's mom totaled her Corolla a couple months ago. I probably could have just stolen the injectors from that and stuck my Yaris ones back in it without anyone knowing. It wouldn't run anyway. Would have saved me a little money, lol.

So, if I drop these 1zz in there will the ECU not be able to keep the AFR at that 14 range?

[CTScott]

Ok cool, well I've got a set of 1zz from a Celica coming. I really wish I had thought/known about this earlier... my fiance's mom totaled her Corolla a couple months ago. I probably could have just stolen the injectors from that and stuck my Yaris ones back in it without anyone knowing. It wouldn't run anyway. Would have saved me a little money, lol.

So, if I drop these 1zz in there will the ECU not be able to keep the AFR at that 14 range?

It will try to trim the extra fuel away, but the larger injectors supply enough extra to keep the ECM from trimming it all away.

[47_MasoN_47]

Nice. I really appreciate all the help you've been over the years.

BTW do you have any other suggestions of stuff I should do to help the car out now that it's boosted? I switched to synthetic oil (mobil 1) when I went boost already. I've got a decent amount of other mods done. I just updated my garage so that everything's up to date if you want to look that over. I do plan on going F/IC at some point.

[47_MasoN_47]

This whole "your engine might be completely fubar" thing doesn't make me real happy.

[CTScott]

Nice. I really appreciate all the help you've been over the years.

BTW do you have any other suggestions of stuff I should do to help the car out now that it's boosted? I switched to synthetic oil (mobil 1) when I went boost already. I've got a decent amount of other mods done. I just updated my garage so that everything's up to date if you want to look that over. I do plan on going F/IC at some point.

That's really about it. Keeping the AFR in a safe range, running high octane fuel, and occasionally doing a compression check is all that I do with mine.

[47_MasoN_47]

Ok.

I haven't measured my AFR at WOT. Is that the only position where it really matters? I was just thinking that it seems like under normal conditions the ECU would probably maintain that 14.7 AFR even with the stock airbox during normal conditions. It would make sense that under WOT I could be lean (since that's what I was doing when I got the lean code that one time) but for the most part it seems like it would be ok where it is?

Just trying to clarify. The car seems to be running fine. I turned the boost off for the time being (jesus these cars are slow without boost, I forgot what that's even like) and am going to get my fiance to help me with the compression test tonight.

[CTScott]

Ok.

I haven't measured my AFR at WOT. Is that the only position where it really matters? I was just thinking that it seems like under normal conditions the ECU would probably maintain that 14.7 AFR even with the stock airbox during normal conditions. It would make sense that under WOT I could be lean (since that's what I was doing when I got the lean code that one time) but for the most part it seems like it would be ok where it is?

Just trying to clarify. The car seems to be running fine. I turned the boost off for the time being (jesus these cars are slow without boost, I forgot what that's even like) and am going to get my fiance to help me with the compression test tonight.

You are concerned about AFR anytime the needle moves out of the vacuum range and into the boost range. The AFR should decrease proportionally as boost increases. I seldom go near WOT, but at max boost (6 psi) I run about 12. As soon as I cross zero into boost range I see the AFR decrease to about 14.3, and then by 3 psi I am down to about 13.6.

[47_MasoN_47]

Hmm ok. I think I'll try another run today and see if it behaves the same way as yours.

[CrankyOldMan]

More kudos to both of you. This is very valuable info for others (like me) who are going to S/C in the near future and need some wisdom and experience to guide us.

[47_MasoN_47]

I did the compression test and threw in some NGK BKR7EIX # 2667 plugs. All 4 cylinders were sitting right at 213psi. I went ahead and installed those 1zz injectors too. Wasn't hard, but it is a bit annoying that you have to remove the valve cover to get the fuel rail off. Car cranked right up and isn't throwing any CELs or anything. Seems to be running well.