Car Shakes during IDLE

[Deshi Basara]

Ok, so every time I am on IDLE my car vibrates, but only when the RPM goes down to <600. I have looked at the wires, change the plugs, oil and other things. I came up with NADA!! I'm hoping that someone has some sort of experience with this and that they can share it. Thank you

[Slacky]

I had a similar, my vibration was evident on the front wheels. It came out that the issue was the front bushings. Replaced and no more vibration...

[Deshi Basara]

I'll look into that. The vibration is not that bad, but it is concerning me because I just don't want it to break down. I really like this car.

[bairjo]

The vibration is not that bad, but it is concerning me

Remove the batteries.

[yarisugi]

Your Yaris has early stages of Parkinson's

[CTScott]

If it does it when the car is stopped with your foot on the brake, try pulling the ebrake lever and taking your foot off the brake. CoryM pointed this out in another thread, and I noticed that my 08 was doing it. I would have expected the brake booster to leak vacuum all the time, if it has a leak, but apparently, it can leak only when actuated.

[Yarflana]

Seems like to me we need a little more information such as what status the car is at when you are at idle. Is it in Drive, Neutral, Reverse? With the brakes on or off? A/C on or off?

I know when I am at a stop light, in drive with the brake on and with or without A/C, the idle will fluctuate so when it drops, there is a little vibrating, but that is because the idle dropped, not because of something else. When I am at idle and in neutral, the engine purrs along just fine.

Are you hearing any noise from this vibration? Just need more details.

[CoryM]

It's normal for the yaris to idle a little rough. My car idles at 550rpm when hot which is VERY low for a small 4cyl engine. I had thought there was a tsb for rough idle which said basically "ignore it"?

CTScott, you may find if it is just a little worse when the brakes are on and idling low, the roughness is just because the extra load of the brake lamps dropping the rpm just enough to get rough idle.

[CTScott]

It's normal for the yaris to idle a little rough. My car idles at 550rpm when hot which is VERY low for a small 4cyl engine. I had thought there was a tsb for rough idle which said basically "ignore it"?

CTScott, you may find if it is just a little worse when the brakes are on and idling low, the roughness is just because the extra load of the brake lamps dropping the rpm just enough to get rough idle.

In my case, I was able to confirm it to the brake booster, as I had a spare one on hand and swapped it out. With mine, it was only with the brake pedal to the floor. If you let up on it a tad, the idle would return to normal.

[phaznet]

I've had the NST crank pulley installed and I definitely notice a rougher idle. As mentioned, I only really feel it when the car idles below 550 rpm. I asked the mechanic and he told me the OEM crank has a little piece of rubber in the middle which helps mitigate the vibrations whereas the NST does not.

[dindy]

ctscott is right, had a problem like this last summer, my car shakes a lot and it began the trigger the check engine light. replaced aiir flow meter, no help, then i replaced the idle control valve and idle was fine again , (please dont mess with idle control valve, i destroyed it by cleaning it with wd40 and carb cleaner, and costs me about 270 euros, original from toyota) later i notice a little shake when im in drive with the brake pressed. then i i let the car in drive mode and applied the handbrake and i depressed my brake, and no shakes!! i found out that my brake booster is going to hell. thanks for ctscott for help and cory too. listen to these guys, beacuse they know what they are saying :) cheers

[Deshi Basara]

Well, it happens when I am in idle, brake depress, and in gear. I tighten all the loose ends already and I am still coming up with nothing. I don't really know where I am going now with this. I haven't checked the brake yet; so, maybe that might help?? Any DIY, pics or videos that I can get? Also, I don't hear any rattle or noise..just the vibration as mentioned.

[vadr45]

I have had all these symptoms - idle dropping below 600 RPMs, a rough idle ensuing, then a bounce back to higher RPMs. Toyota blamed it on the previous owner and said he had by-passed a coolant line. I accepted the diagnosis, but the problem hasn't gone away. Surely Toyota mechanics have seen this one before?

[SKurj]

My car does it when on AC or on windshield defrost when not on recirc. It drops when the compressor kicks in.

Without ac on it idles fine.

[CTScott]

I have had all these symptoms - idle dropping below 600 RPMs, a rough idle ensuing, then a bounce back to higher RPMs. Toyota blamed it on the previous owner and said he had by-passed a coolant line. I accepted the diagnosis, but the problem hasn't gone away. Surely Toyota mechanics have seen this one before?

5 Speed Yaris do it and it seems to be a normal behavior. AT Yaris should not do it, and only one of my 3 AT's did do it, and, as I mentioned above, I was able to track it to the brake booster and was able to resolve it.

[Killchain]

I can add this, I had a 1990 Toy PU 4x4 short bed. Hanging out in the Toyota truck forums pointed out that. Pressing and holding down brake at a stop. Causes brake switch to kick down RPMs. The only remedy I recall is to take out brake switch.

Thus I do believe its a Toyota thing, I know CT Scott will correct me. I'm ready for the pain. :cry:

[Deshi Basara]

Ok.. So, now I noticed the yaris shakes below <550 rpm without pressing on the brake and clutch on complete stop. Yes, it only happens when rpm goes <550 and it's concerning the heck out of me because I can't figure it out for some reason. I really want it to stop because it is getting annoying. I changed the oil, tightened things up, checked the tires and lugs, and I am still coming up with nothing. Again it only happens when it's on complete stop and even on neutral when the rpm goes down <550..... :( so frustrating

[why?]

If your car has a manual transmission, it is 100% normal. The idle is set really low to reduce gas use, and it'll vibrate like that every so often.

If you have an auto, I'd check the aforementioned brake booster.

[Amdkt7]

Yes, I believe it is because the rpms are so low. The ECU is trying to save as much fuel while idling as possible. 600 RPM is very low for a 4 cylinder engine. If the air needs to come on, or if the battery charge is getting low the ECU will boost the RPMs, it also will not idle that slow when it is cold. Now, if you are getting a check engine light you do have a problem. To be sure you could have the engine codes read to see if there are any issues.

[adrianangel]

My yaris started with poor acceleration and rough idle a couple of days ago. Putting in gas treatment did nothing. Then the check engine light came on. Took it to Pepboys, they did an analysis: it was a bad coil. One of the four coils above the four sparkplugs. Their engine analyzer told them which coil it was. I plan on buying an engine analyzer for myself for sixty bucks for in the future for when the other three coils crap out. The engine analyzers plug in under the steering wheel... so they told me. The new coil was about one hundred bucks.

[TLyttle]

I guess I'm lucky. My 07 sedan drops to 550rpm, quiet, steady as a rock. What am I doing wrong?? ;-)

[cosmin1984]

My 2012 Yaris 10.000 km is doing the same ..... vibration when idle ...I guess due to low RPM ..... when I am turn the lights on the RPM is grow up and the vibration disappear. I was to Toyota dealer we scanned the engine no error codes... I really hate this vibration ... !! So what we can do ?

[itspravin]

I have Toyota Yaris 2013 Auto transmission.
From last 3 to 4 days I am experiencing problem of Car shaking badly when Parked with hand brake on and Airconditioning on...after turning off Airconditioning no shakes and car runs good but after turning on Airconditioning on same happens again but While driving everything is normal.

[miiser]

In my case, the throttle body (here we call it butterfly :p) was dirty. I took it to my mechanic they cleaned it and problem solved


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[praivo]

I had this problem too (rough idle with lights on, OK without). Then I filled up with "premium" 98-octane fuel once, just out of curiosity, and the problem was gone within 30 seconds after re-starting the car! When I was waiting at an intersection to exit the station, the idle was already completely smooth. And it really *was* because of the fuel because the stuff I used to buy before makes the problem reappear - again, almost instantly.

[dogsridewith]

A digital multimeter on frequency setting reading the 2007 Yaris 1NZFE pin 9 (?) on the diagnostics connector settled right at 20 pulses per second (=600 rpm) when warm (not sure if same when warm w/ A/C and/or lights on, etc.) The manual wants 600 rpm. (My 1991 FA-FE Corolla is 700, or maybe 750) So I wouldn't want 550, particularly if rough idling. Isn't one of Hal's control circuits trying to make the idle 600? (Corolla has a mechanic-turned screw that adjusts a bypass airflow...it isn't the butterfly stop screw, which is just there to stop the butterfly before it jams in the throttle body.)
(edit: oops? maybe the 5-speed gets 600 and the automatic 550?)

[Greeneyez15o]

If it does it when the car is stopped with your foot on the brake, try pulling the ebrake lever and taking your foot off the brake. CoryM pointed this out in another thread, and I noticed that my 08 was doing it. I would have expected the brake booster to leak vacuum all the time, if it has a leak, but apparently, it can leak only when actuated.

I just bought a 2017 YarisIA 2-3 weeks ago. I am having this same issue that while on the brakes at a red light I feel the car trembling. I did do what u said with the ebrake lever which worked for the reminder, but then I parked n when I went on a drive again, the trembling began again. Any updates on how to fix ? I'm heading to Toyota on Monday, but not expecting much from them . Any help will be highly appreciated, thanx

Just got back from Toyota to get the car serviced. Waste of time, was told they couldn't find anything wrong, still trembling when i come to a stop :( any suggestions ?

[DarkShadowFox]

I had this problem too (rough idle with lights on, OK without). Then I filled up with "premium" 98-octane fuel once, just out of curiosity, and the problem was gone within 30 seconds after re-starting the car! When I was waiting at an intersection to exit the station, the idle was already completely smooth. And it really *was* because of the fuel because the stuff I used to buy before makes the problem reappear - again, almost instantly.

higher millage engines sometimes will require higher octane fuels to operate correctly or those with lots of wear. try running sea foam through your car and injector cleaner and cleaning out your throttle body and MAF sensor.

[GeoffreyVB]

I've noticed a similar issue with my Yaris. It's got what I would discribe as a shutter at idle it seems completely random, it's almost as if it just misses a cylinder sometimes. I got a OBD2 reader and was able to see that the vacuum does drop at the same time these little studders occur.
It's got about 160k miles on it, I'm thinking I'll try cleaning the MAF and I could change plugs? But it wasn't all that long ago I did that.

It's recently also started doing it other times than idle too. I tried. Checking the air fuel ratio with the OBD2 but it sounds like that might just give the target?

[rayfloyd170]

I've noticed a similar issue with my Yaris. It's got what I would discribe as a shutter at idle it seems completely random, it's almost as if it just misses a cylinder sometimes. I got a OBD2 reader and was able to see that the vacuum does drop at the same time these little studders occur.
It's got about 160k miles on it, I'm thinking I'll try cleaning the MAF and I could change plugs? But it wasn't all that long ago I did that.

It's recently also started doing it other times than idle too. I tried. Checking the air fuel ratio with the OBD2 but it sounds like that might just give the target?

Exactly had the same issue for quite a while..

I have cleaned the TB, MAF, PCV and regularly changed oils and filter as well as changed plugs... but the problem is still intermittently there and i learned to lived with it as i heard it is Normal for all Yaris having manual trans...

Anyway, i got nothing to loose and said to myself to try the Gumout regane fuel system cleaner with PEA which i find on the shelf in the store and was surprised to see a big difference..

No more shutter at idle for 1 week now and counting... my wild guess, it could be partially dirty injectors or fuel system lines, i also get ~20% extra mpg...

i know some people confirmed it to be related to the brake booster but with just a few bucks i got nothing to loose here...