Advice on purchasing amp + sub(s)

[MyzticZ3r0]

Hey guys, I'm in the market for an amp and subwoofer(s). I've been reading through several sites and some say that I should buy a monoamp for the sub; however, I do have component speakers and would like some advise if I should buy a monoamp for just the sub or getting a 4-channel amp . I know I need to look at the RMS requirements for the sub(s) and choose an amp from there. I do plan to take my time since I'm still collecting information still, but any advise would be appreciated. As for price, let's just say my price range is $500-600.

If it helps, here is what I have installed currently.
I have Pioneer TS-A1304C (front speakers + tweeters),
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA1...-a1304c&tp=106

Pioneer AVH-P4400BH (HU),
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130P440...H-P4400BH.html

Pioneer TS-A1684R (rear speakers)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA1...s-a1684r&tp=95

[_S7V7N_]

What size subs ?

[MyzticZ3r0]

What size subs ?

I think I've decided on one 12" - I don't know if two 10" subs are better or one 12" (I'm not completely sure if two 12" can actually fit in my 07 HB.

[_S7V7N_]

Alright i have an idea . But i need to run to the store. Check back in an hour or 2. One of the other guys may chime in as well for some other ideas.

[TOLMACH]

Separate amp for sub is pretty much always preferred.. try something from pioneers or alpines

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12018_Alpine-MRP-M500.html

For front speakers - I am hearing some crazily good opiions on these guys (good sounding D class)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43536_Pioneer-PRS-D800.html

For rears - you can just use your HU's internal amps .. rears play sort of auxiliary role in the average SQ system

[TOLMACH]

Quality stuff inside
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/products/prs_d700/img/feature_img13.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/amp-guts-modifications-custom-crossovers/134645-amp-gurus-prs-d800.html&h=482&w=753&sz=170&tbnid=UDAyuV9kVMRoKM:&tbnh=76&tbnw=118&prev=/search%3Fq%3DPRS-D800%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=PRS-D800&usg=__D1ow8LE0jWiFsDmXJ-b68EdeKkU=&docid=A_uAPngr9rYMWM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=5qU7UZecGMLXrQG05YHQBQ&ved=0CEkQ9QEwBA&dur=2674

[_S7V7N_]

How old are them Components and the 6.5's ?

And how much did you pay for them ?

35 Rms
50 Rms Do you plan on upgrading in the future ?

Adding an Amp will help a bit, but you won't be able to put to much to them speakers. You'll have to be extra extra careful with the volume on your headunit and the gain on the amps.

We can suggest you a few amps that will do 50x4 RMS but to be honest, i'd go ahead and get a good sized 4 channel so you won't have to sell when you decide to upgrade.

Please don't take me as being rude this is my honest opinion.

I'd sell your current components and them 6.5's try to get at least $150.
From there we can suggest a few diff component sets.
Do away with the rear speakers. (The sub is going to cancel them out either way ) or pick some cheap ones for fill ins.


After your input we'll talk more about amps.

[MyzticZ3r0]

Separate amp for sub is pretty much always preferred.. try something from pioneers or alpines

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12018_Alpine-MRP-M500.html

For front speakers - I am hearing some crazily good opiions on these guys (good sounding D class)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43536_Pioneer-PRS-D800.html

For rears - you can just use your HU's internal amps .. rears play sort of auxiliary role in the average SQ system

Why would a separate amp be preferred for the sub? I can't find any literature about this specific topic.

How old are them Components and the 6.5's ?

And how much did you pay for them ?

35 Rms
50 Rms Do you plan on upgrading in the future ?

Adding an Amp will help a bit, but you won't be able to put to much to them speakers. You'll have to be extra extra careful with the volume on your headunit and the gain on the amps.

We can suggest you a few amps that will do 50x4 RMS but to be honest, i'd go ahead and get a good sized 4 channel so you won't have to sell when you decide to upgrade.

Please don't take me as being rude this is my honest opinion.

I'd sell your current components and them 6.5's try to get at least $150.
From there we can suggest a few diff component sets.
Do away with the rear speakers. (The sub is going to cancel them out either way ) or pick some cheap ones for fill ins.


After your input we'll talk more about amps.

I did realize after I bought them that they were weak compared to others and I just didn't do enough research into the subject. The components are only about three months old. I was hoping for better response about the fronts, but I do understand where you are coming from. I think bought the speakers for about $150-170.

[_S7V7N_]

If you could get a hundred bucks for them you could grab some PowerBass like i have pictured in the other post.
Derick and Sq could probably suggest some others in the price range. And i believe with a spacer you can fit 6.5's in your fronts. Hell i think Sq squeezed some 8's in his 6.5 spaces. We have Sedans.


Reminder :

Ebay Link : http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERBASS-2XL-60C-6-1-2-2-WAY-FULL-RANGE-CONVERTIBLE-COMPONENT-SPEAKER-SYSTEM-/190800296882?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item2c6c957bb2

http://www.autotoys.com/pics/2XL60C.jpg


Power Handling: 360W peak per pair (180 watts), RMS: 180W per pair / 90 watts each side
50/50 Wool blend cone delivers smooth, natural sound reproduction
Butyl rubber surround
Pivot point 1" silk dome tweeter for accurate treble
Mounting kit for the tweeter allows the tweeter to focus the sound in the needed direction
Convertible mounting system allows the speakers to be mounted as a separate component system or a coaxial speaker
Rigid tooled basket with a stainless steel finish
Heavy motor structure with protective boot increases the power handling
PBX custom grille included protects your speakers and makes them look great
External 12dB 2-way crossover network
3 ohms impedance
High temperature voice coil
Top-mount depth: 2-1/2"
Sensitivity: 91 dB
Frequency Response: 59 - 20,000 Hz

[_S7V7N_]

As far as subs go you want subs in a box ? Or you can build your own ?

How much trunk space you want to lose ?

[MyzticZ3r0]

If you could get a hundred bucks for them you could grab some PowerBass like i have pictured in the other post.
Derick and Sq could probably suggest some others in the price range. And i believe with a spacer you can fit 6.5's in your fronts. Hell i think Sq squeezed some 8's in his 6.5 spaces. We have Sedans.


Reminder :

Ebay Link : http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERBASS-2XL-60C-6-1-2-2-WAY-FULL-RANGE-CONVERTIBLE-COMPONENT-SPEAKER-SYSTEM-/190800296882?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item2c6c957bb2

http://www.autotoys.com/pics/2XL60C.jpg


Power Handling: 360W peak per pair (180 watts), RMS: 180W per pair / 90 watts each side
50/50 Wool blend cone delivers smooth, natural sound reproduction
Butyl rubber surround
Pivot point 1" silk dome tweeter for accurate treble
Mounting kit for the tweeter allows the tweeter to focus the sound in the needed direction
Convertible mounting system allows the speakers to be mounted as a separate component system or a coaxial speaker
Rigid tooled basket with a stainless steel finish
Heavy motor structure with protective boot increases the power handling
PBX custom grille included protects your speakers and makes them look great
External 12dB 2-way crossover network
3 ohms impedance
High temperature voice coil
Top-mount depth: 2-1/2"
Sensitivity: 91 dB
Frequency Response: 59 - 20,000 Hz

Those definitely are much better than my fronts. What exactly are those "boxes" used for?

As far as subs go you want subs in a box ? Or you can build your own ?

How much trunk space you want to lose ?

I'd say subs in a box - I am going to remove my spare tire to make clearance.

[_S7V7N_]

Google - Passive Crossover

10 or 12's. ?

Fosgate has some entry level subs in a ported box. But that box is going to take up most your rear hatch.

You could also go with some kicker 12's in a box. Same ones they have at Best buy. Cept for half the price. If you get a chance cruise by best buy to see if it would fit in your hatch.

[sqcomp]

Myztic - If you have install issues, go see Jon Webb at Performance Audio.

[MyzticZ3r0]

Google - Passive Crossover

10 or 12's. ?

Fosgate has some entry level subs in a ported box. But that box is going to take up most your rear hatch.

You could also go with some kicker 12's in a box. Same ones they have at Best buy. Cept for half the price. If you get a chance cruise by best buy to see if it would fit in your hatch.

I was hoping to be able to put the subs in the space where the spare tire is, but have the room to have a trunk still. Is that impractical? I overlooked the kicker 12's, but I was talking to my mechanic and he said to look into a speaker called L7 series (if I remember correctly). He said it'd be a perfect sub for HB.

Edit: I looked up the L7 series and I'm pretty sure it wasn't 15". I will go back to my mechanic and double check sometime soon.

Myztic - If you have install issues, go see Jon Webb at Performance Audio.

I actually got his card from a local audio shop - thank you for the recommendation!

[sqcomp]

PM your way

[_S7V7N_]

No need to talk to the mechanic. L7's will require a ton of airspace. for a single sub you'd need the whole hatch area and barely have what is required. For a pair you'd have to build a box that would take up your Hatch as well as all or most of the seats folded.

For what you're trying to do you have a few options :

12 inch Shallow Mount Sub
10 Inch Low Excursion Sub ( Won't require alot of airspace )
(2) 8 inch subs

I see the required RMS to be around 500 watts RMS For that type of setup.
It's also going to be more Sq and not so much Spl just because you won't be using alot of airspace. Another words it won't be as boomy, then again it is a hatch.

That guy SQ suggested will know his stuff. Lets see what he recommends.

[sqcomp]

Jon Webb does indeed know his stuff. He's standup guy. He comes off a little high strung to some people but his work speaks volumes. He was installer of the year in 2011 with that Pontiac G8 Arc Audio install. He and I have talked at length about it and I've actually demoed the vehicle a CES.

What was mentioned about you having a HB is significant actually. You're going to have a nice response bump around 39-42 Hz in a Yaris given whatever enclosure. It's just how the car's resonant frequency is...

I offered Myz my DD S4b and my ML3800 (loaded in a 1.5^3 sealed enclosure). Depending on his budget, this could really take care of any issues he might have. Heck, even with stock speakers off that amp you'll be better.

[_S7V7N_]

I'd let your buddy set up that amp and show him where his volume on his radio should be and he'd have a hell of a system.

Holy Hell that sub is a 15 ?

Myz thats a hell of an amp and sub. You went straight to the top with equipment like that. Hell if you don't take it i'd consider that Deal !

[MyzticZ3r0]

Jon Webb does indeed know his stuff. He's standup guy. He comes off a little high strung to some people but his work speaks volumes. He was installer of the year in 2011 with that Pontiac G8 Arc Audio install. He and I have talked at length about it and I've actually demoed the vehicle a CES.

What was mentioned about you having a HB is significant actually. You're going to have a nice response bump around 39-42 Hz in a Yaris given whatever enclosure. It's just how the car's resonant frequency is...

I offered Myz my DD S4b and my ML3800 (loaded in a 1.5^3 sealed enclosure). Depending on his budget, this could really take care of any issues he might have. Heck, even with stock speakers off that amp you'll be better.

I actually went to the 2011 CES convention, but I must've missed the demo of the g8. Too bad - I could've used the insight on SQ and something to measure myself to.

No need to talk to the mechanic. L7's will require a ton of airspace. for a single sub you'd need the whole hatch area and barely have what is required. For a pair you'd have to build a box that would take up your Hatch as well as all or most of the seats folded.

For what you're trying to do you have a few options :

12 inch Shallow Mount Sub
10 Inch Low Excursion Sub ( Won't require alot of airspace )
(2) 8 inch subs

I see the required RMS to be around 500 watts RMS For that type of setup.
It's also going to be more Sq and not so much Spl just because you won't be using alot of airspace. Another words it won't be as boomy, then again it is a hatch.

That guy SQ suggested will know his stuff. Lets see what he recommends.

I did actually stop by Best Buy on the way home today to check out those two 12" kicker subs in the box - it barely fits in my hatch area. I will admit I love the idea of having two 12"s, but I do use my hatch frequently. Another problem, as I mentioned to SQ, was that I want my system to be incognito when I'm not in the car. Unfortunately, the rate of stolen vehicles in Vegas is abnormally high and I don't need to give them any more reason to take my car. I am, however, open to other ideas!

I'd let your buddy set up that amp and show him where his volume on his radio should be and he'd have a hell of a system.

Holy Hell that sub is a 15 ?

Myz thats a hell of an amp and sub. You went straight to the top with equipment like that. Hell if you don't take it i'd consider that Deal !

Yea I overlooked the 15", it's a monster! I am considering it, but as reasons posted above, I need to think it over.

[_S7V7N_]

That 15 only needs 1.5 cu ft of airspace. It can work in that spare tire area. You'd just have to do something like a false floor and raise it a few inches. Nobody would know that sub or amp was there. Unless you showed them.
Example : how an old school camaro box looks. But with a single sub and not as high.

Sq how vented does that amp have to be ?

Mystic how much were them 12's ? Like $400 bucks plus ? I can find them for about $250 shipped and they're the 800 watt RMS silver ones.

[sqcomp]

The amp has a massive heat sink....in the three years that I've had it, it only got warm...never hot...and it was on the bottom of my trunk setup with little airflow.

I'd throw my ML to Myz for $250. It's a 1k-ish retail woofer. I truly don't care about making money off it. I just want it to go to a good home. A plus for Myz, Jon Webb is an Audison/Hertz dealer. He can give you any support you need with the woofer. That being said, it's straight forward single 4 Ohm.

As for the crime in Vegas, I totally understand. There are some ways to avoid attention, even with a 15" in back.

[_S7V7N_]

Myz go check out that shop and get to talkin to that Jon guy and see what he thinks about that system listed and get an opinion on it. Hell get a quoted price for that stuff or something on that same level. Bet it retails for close to 2 grand.

At the same time see what he can recommend about hiding that system

[sqcomp]

Jon's shop pushes Arc Audio, Hybrid Audio, Elettromedia (Audison/Hertz) as the top brands. I don't recall what he's doing for head unit manufacturers. I think I saw Kenwood, Sony and JVC last time I was there. That may have changed.

Jon may be a top end dealer in price, but there's a good reason for it. You DEFINATELY get what you pay for.

[MyzticZ3r0]

That 15 only needs 1.5 cu ft of airspace. It can work in that spare tire area. You'd just have to do something like a false floor and raise it a few inches. Nobody would know that sub or amp was there. Unless you showed them.
Example : how an old school camaro box looks. But with a single sub and not as high.

Sq how vented does that amp have to be ?

Mystic how much were them 12's ? Like $400 bucks plus ? I can find them for about $250 shipped and they're the 800 watt RMS silver ones.

You were dead on - they were $400 for both subs and the box. The box itself was too large for my needs. I was thinking if it were two 10s, or a single 15", I'd have sufficient space for my needs.

The amp has a massive heat sink....in the three years that I've had it, it only got warm...never hot...and it was on the bottom of my trunk setup with little airflow.

I'd throw my ML to Myz for $250. It's a 1k-ish retail woofer. I truly don't care about making money off it. I just want it to go to a good home. A plus for Myz, Jon Webb is an Audison/Hertz dealer. He can give you any support you need with the woofer. That being said, it's straight forward single 4 Ohm.

As for the crime in Vegas, I totally understand. There are some ways to avoid attention, even with a 15" in back.

I'll stop by to see Jon Webb probably Wed - it's my only day off from both jobs. I'd go sooner if I could!

Myz go check out that shop and get to talkin to that Jon guy and see what he thinks about that system listed and get an opinion on it. Hell get a quoted price for that stuff or something on that same level. Bet it retails for close to 2 grand.

At the same time see what he can recommend about hiding that system

I do like the idea of a false floor. I was overlooking over other vehicles and it seems like it's a better idea to put an amp back there as well (I see some put it under their seats, but I wouldn'd want anyone kicking around expensive equipment ^^).

Jon's shop pushes Arc Audio, Hybrid Audio, Elettromedia (Audison/Hertz) as the top brands. I don't recall what he's doing for head unit manufacturers. I think I saw Kenwood, Sony and JVC last time I was there. That may have changed.

Jon may be a top end dealer in price, but there's a good reason for it. You DEFINATELY get what you pay for.

I don't believe my HU would cause any problems correct? Thank you for the recommendation. I do wish I could've seen his ride at the 2011 CES.

[sqcomp]

Jon has the heads up for you on Wednesday.

[MyzticZ3r0]

Jon has the heads up for you on Wednesday.

Sounds good - thanks SQ! I should be over there between 10-12 or so.

[MyzticZ3r0]

I wasn't able to make it to go see Jon today, but I gave him a call and told him Friday would be better. I got called into work SQ. Sorry bro. I am thinking of deadening my doors, hatch, and trunk. =]

[edmscan]

Unfortunately, the rate of stolen vehicles in Vegas is abnormally high and I don't need to give them any more reason to take my car.

Myself I had my subs / box stolen and it is for this reason I cringe when I see you guys putting in your systems in your cars. I just hope that nothing happens .. and why I stick with the stock stereo (however bad it may be), but I just cannot see myself putting in another aftermarket system in my car.

[_S7V7N_]

I'm insured up to 1k in audio equipment...I make sure i keep all my receipts and jot down my Serial numbers on my stuff. I usually don't have a system longer than 3-6 months before i trade it out for a new one. Even when i Lived in Orlando, FL i didn't have much of an issue. I disabled the pop trunk lever for my Sedan (Trunk) so they'd have to Rip out my rear seat then fight to get the box out. Most they could steal from the front is my headunit which is roughly 150 - 200 bucks.

[sqcomp]

Myz - no need to apologize to me. I'm just glad you got to talk with Jon. Follow his advice when you do meet. Don't be tempted to undercut the advice or cost, especially for install costs...then go to some flashy used car salesman type shop. You'll end up back at Jon's paying more in the long run for something really simple.

[MyzticZ3r0]

Alright sorry I've been MIA. I'm going tomorrow morning to talk to Jon Webb =]. I've had other projects going on lately so I am sorry for the wait. I've been listening to some of my friends systems and thus far, I do like the sound of small subs. But who knows! I will keep you posted SQ - thanks again for being patient.

[Delfire]

Hey Mystik, If it helps Ive upgraded the system... well actually took everything out and gave it to some kids. Got new radio, amp. and speakers of at crutchfield; i mean, you can't really beat their prices, even with shipping included,
I can say my set up, is pretty low key nothing crazy, BUT with a mean punch, sound is sublime and very clean, from other set-ups I heard out there.
I've installed the 10" sub and small case, takes bout 2/3d's of space, had to cut and modify the flap in back cause box was a tad too high. and can take up around 250 W rms, If I remember corectly its an Energy

radio is a Sony DSX-S310BTX ( has remote Subwoofer and amp controls in it Perfect)
The amp is an MTX TD500.1D Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
( those two I made them portable, atached amp on sub case with anti vibration rubbers, plain rubbers, and made the whole thing easy to take off from trunk. connection is made with a 220 V plug made for kitchens or dryers, cause in a toyota Yaris hatch... not much space, and take whole things of and on .. you end up breaking the connections, plus, theres enough space for the whole plug assembly just under the plastic plank, behind the slidding seat :) )
Also installed Component 5 1/4" JBL's in front, found a nice top line component kit and again JBL's with tweeters, atached for the back doors.
And voila. enough to make a statement that small cars dont always pack OEM speakers ( and I had the laugh of my life when I actually DID make that statement against an Audi A8 who thought could push me down, SHE had her bf roll up the windows after my car gave hers the finger) ahahahaha
But from the compliments I got... overall i can say its a fair to very good system, on that mix match, and cheap to make, + it's not energyvore.
But then again all systems made would depend of your music.. im into techno,I need sound to be clean at points not always bombarding.

[MyzticZ3r0]

I've been sidetracked by work projects and family so I haven't had time to get my amp/subs. I don't need anything to rattle the ground or piss off any neighbors. I don't care if the other car next to me here's my system - I've never liked when someone rolls up next to me to listen to their obnoxious (usually) music. Most of the music I listen to is rock, but I play around with other genres. I don't think anything larger than 10s will be needed, but I'm still contemplating ;)

Hey Mystik, If it helps Ive upgraded the system... well actually took everything out and gave it to some kids. Got new radio, amp. and speakers of at crutchfield; i mean, you can't really beat their prices, even with shipping included,
I can say my set up, is pretty low key nothing crazy, BUT with a mean punch, sound is sublime and very clean, from other set-ups I heard out there.
I've installed the 10" sub and small case, takes bout 2/3d's of space, had to cut and modify the flap in back cause box was a tad too high. and can take up around 250 W rms, If I remember corectly its an Energy

radio is a Sony DSX-S310BTX ( has remote Subwoofer and amp controls in it Perfect)
The amp is an MTX TD500.1D Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
( those two I made them portable, atached amp on sub case with anti vibration rubbers, plain rubbers, and made the whole thing easy to take off from trunk. connection is made with a 220 V plug made for kitchens or dryers, cause in a toyota Yaris hatch... not much space, and take whole things of and on .. you end up breaking the connections, plus, theres enough space for the whole plug assembly just under the plastic plank, behind the slidding seat :) )
Also installed Component 5 1/4" JBL's in front, found a nice top line component kit and again JBL's with tweeters, atached for the back doors.
And voila. enough to make a statement that small cars dont always pack OEM speakers ( and I had the laugh of my life when I actually DID make that statement against an Audi A8 who thought could push me down, SHE had her bf roll up the windows after my car gave hers the finger) ahahahaha
But from the compliments I got... overall i can say its a fair to very good system, on that mix match, and cheap to make, + it's not energyvore.
But then again all systems made would depend of your music.. im into techno,I need sound to be clean at points not always bombarding.

[why?]

Myself I had my subs / box stolen and it is for this reason I cringe when I see you guys putting in your systems in your cars. I just hope that nothing happens .. and why I stick with the stock stereo (however bad it may be), but I just cannot see myself putting in another aftermarket system in my car.

If anyone is really worried about that, just follow sqcomp's lead. He built a real sonic weapon in his car, and the alarm sets it off. Odds are if someone tried to break into his car they'd be lucky to not pass out from the db's, never mind get away.

[sqcomp]

There are certainly things to do when trying to protect your investment.

I don't want to dissuade anyone from following my lead regarding vehicle security, but I'm an extreme case. The real reason I built my alarm the way I did was because of two major factors. "Boredom" while deployed in Iraq and because someone said I couldn't do what I wanted to do.

If someone breaks into my car, they'd be met by two piezo sirens carefully hidden in the car's duct work, a strobe light that makes the vehicle look like a friggin' club at night, two battery backup sirens hidden deep in the fenders of the vehicle, the two way remote that tells me about anything going on with the car...and a K3LA horn backed by a 5 gallon air tank hooked up to the OEM horn switch...All of these happen at once.

That last one WILL wake the dead a mile away and guarantee a visit from me in a "friendly" mood.

[sqcomp]

@ Edmscan - I completely understand your thought on the stock stereo. That happened to me once back in 1996. I adapted and overcame. That experience in part with guidance allowed me to reach the highest levels of car audio competition.

If one wants to keep the stock look of the vehicle that can be done VERY easily these days. The processing availability is staggering. You can absolutely keep the stock look of a vehicle. You just have to adjust your thinking and make it happen.

[jRoss]

All I can say is go big!

[why?]

All I can say is go big!

I disagree 1 trillion percent. It really stinks having the cops knock on your door after getting home because that pos garbage neighbor called them yet again because your car was so damn loud they could hear you coming home 1/2 a mile away. Also, that situation will cause back pain.

The best system I've heard is Derrick's. nothing about it is big except the sound, and the time he has put into it. The borderline insane attention to details, like figuring out how to quiet the windshield wipers.

All the different types of music I made him play sounded great. I didn't need to turn it up so the entire world could here it to feel the bass. Even some eminem, his small sub was plenty to make it sound great and be able to feel it.

[YarisSedan]

I have 2 of these installed in my rear deck right now. Sealed the trunk so it acts as the sub box i loose no trunk space and hits atleast as hard as 1 ten.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-837&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

Then using a kenwood 2 channel amp to power them 200 watts a channel they really sing. Makes the interior and mirror rattle like crazy but outside the car its not too bad

My advice is get a 4 channel amplifier to power your front components and ditch the passive crossover and go full active it will sound way better. Then get a cheap 2 channel amp for the subs. If you match the power correctly to your components you can have a budget system that sounds nearly as good as competition setups for a fraction of the cost.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_37751_Pioneer-GM-6500F.html

Id pair this amp - $130

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31089_Pioneer-TS-A1604C.html

with these speakers -$80

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33472_1600W-Kenwood-Subwoofers-and-Amplifier-Bass-Bundle.html

This subwoofer amp combo - 147

Thats total of only 357 dollars for a very decent sounding system. The leftover money goes into finding the deck that you like that has the right preouts

Something like this is economical

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42912_JVC-KD-R730BT.html

Id run your door speakers on the front channel rear channel for your front tweeters on full active crossover this deck has built in high and low pass filters already, then you have 2 output for your 2 rear subs. Also has seperate sub control with lot more options so its a very good value.

Thats a total of 466 for a killer system.

It leaves a little leftover room in your budget to cover install/wiring kit. The kenwood amp is side vents so you can install it under your seat for a clean install.

[sqcomp]

Don't forget the cost of the kit, harness, connectors and wiring kit for the amplifiers.

[bzinn 1]

I have a 15" in a 1.5cu sealed box in my HB and I can tell you it sounds incredable.

running at 13.4v 650w to it as that is about what my cars seems to put out acording to my guage.

some pitfalls I had were aiming the sub to use the hatch as a reflector and allow the sound to hit me a full developed wave at my sitting location,I tried it straight up aimed at the roof,straight back aimed at the hatch,differant depths into the hatch,even tried it aimed forwards....but the best was slightly tilted towards hatch and bracketed to the floor.I also tried it with the motor in the box and found the sound was still good,response sharp but volume was not what I wanted,so I ran it inverted and it picked up volume and prescence.

I have pushed my amp to 800w and the sub will hold that fine as its RMS is 800 and peaks at 1100...dont know hwy the RMS is higher than half the peak on it but that is what the stat sheet said....and although it was running fine the car was actually quieter...thought I blew it up till my buddy listened and said it was canceling...he explained it but I didnt totally understand.

Also one important thing I had to do was kill the rattles....I dont even at this point know how much sound deadening went in and the roof was even deadened,headliner glassed and then bedliner put on it....that was the hugest differance in the sound I noticed.also all my panels have been deadened and many glassed and painted and that also helped deaden noise.

So yes a 15" sealed will work well....those who have heard my system are amazed and are blown away at all the work it took.Pretty much 2 full show seasons to finish it.

sqcomp is also correct you will need to take in to account cost of good wires and RCAs and connectors...that is a must and not really cheap to do.

Look forward to seeing what sub set up you try and also make sure to learn to tune it and amp so it lasts a while,mine is still hitting strong and clean after 2 years and the amp is on year 5.

[TOLMACH]

^ Yeah, bzinn's sub is awesome.. plays nice and deep with crazy speed when needed.. was pretty impressed during our two hour @international car audio SQ event@ early this month ))

[jRoss]

I disagree 1 trillion percent. It really stinks having the cops knock on your door after getting home because that pos garbage neighbor called them yet again because your car was so damn loud they could hear you coming home 1/2 a mile away. Also, that situation will cause back pain.

The best system I've heard is Derrick's. nothing about it is big except the sound, and the time he has put into it. The borderline insane attention to details, like figuring out how to quiet the windshield wipers.

All the different types of music I made him play sounded great. I didn't need to turn it up so the entire world could here it to feel the bass. Even some eminem, his small sub was plenty to make it sound great and be able to feel it.

This is why I only turn mine up on the highway. It's quite rude to pound music in residential areas, especially at night, but it's quite common around here. Cops don't tend to care. I do love the vibration when i turn it up and whatnot but I use common sense about it...I also tend to keep my bass at -7 and I have some awesome tweeters, which makes the vocals and overall sound amazing. I listen to mostly rap and metal, both sound great in my car.

[nookandcrannycar]

pos garbage neighbor

This reminds me of something that happened to me long ago. I lived in a 3br 2ba apartment with two friends of mine. Our particular building was set up with 4 apartments with the same 1 level floor plan -- 2 upstairs units and 2 downstairs units. We lived in one of the upstairs units. A family lived below us, and they had a piano. Someone in the family played the piano at the oddest hours, and we never complained about this to anyone. My apartment mates and I always listened to music through our headphones except one time one of my apartment mates piped two songs (one after the other) through his speakers with the volume up just a bit (I was there)....during the day.....and the mom in the apartment below us (who I think was the one playing that piano at inappropriate hours) complained and got us kicked out of the complex! We'd never had a complaint made against us before that. They did let us move into another complex of our choice (same level or below -- many choices)) without re-qualifying.

The best system I've heard is Derrick's. nothing about it is big except the sound, and the time he has put into it. The borderline insane attention to details, like figuring out how to quiet the windshield wipers.

All the different types of music I made him play sounded great. I didn't need to turn it up so the entire world could here it to feel the bass. Even some eminem, his small sub was plenty to make it sound great and be able to feel it.

I know what you mean. A system that is so well designed and executed (no credit to me, except paying for it) using quality equipment that it doesn't generate any listener fatigue. I had a system like that in my GTI (minus THAT level of attention to detail....you had me thinking that sounds like my old system (in my GTI) until you mentioned quieting the wipers).

[nookandcrannycar]

My advice is get a 4 channel amplifier to power your front components and ditch the passive crossover and go full active it will sound way better. Then get a cheap 2 channel amp for the subs. If you match the power correctly to your components you can have a budget system that sounds nearly as good as competition setups for a fraction of the cost.

so you can install it under your seat for a clean install.

^^^^^ I wholeheartedly agree with the above. This reminds me of how I looked at the system I had in my Swift (the car just before my Yaris) except I had my amp installed under the passenger seat so it would be less susceptible to damage if I spilled something.

[MyzticZ3r0]

Thank you everyone for your input - it is much appreciated. I've noticed that many use two different amps for their systems. Can anyone answer why you'd want to to separate amps for your components and the subs? Wouldn't it be easier to buy a 4 channel amp - two channels for the front and two for the subs? Or would the impedance of the front components cause problems with the subs?

[_S7V7N_]

What amp did you have in mind ?

Can you use a 4 channel for subs..sure.

Most people wire the components in the front (2 speakers)
Then the rears (2 speakers) so that takes up all 4 channels.

Most Headunits have 6 preouts (Front,Rear,Subwoofer)
Which i've started running my Subs Mono from the deck since the amps i used required a mono signal. Different story though.

If you can find some subs that fit in running off 50 - 100 watts rms, the 4 channel is perfect. Plus that 4 channel will more than likely not have a Sub Sonic filter.

Some amps can run more power..but expect to pay 500-1000 bucks on that four channel..

If you just want to run 1 amp look into a 5 channel amp that has a dedicated subwoofer channel.

[YarisSedan]

Thank you everyone for your input - it is much appreciated. I've noticed that many use two different amps for their systems. Can anyone answer why you'd want to to separate amps for your components and the subs? Wouldn't it be easier to buy a 4 channel amp - two channels for the front and two for the subs? Or would the impedance of the front components cause problems with the subs?

Your system will be more efficient and in the end sound better, if your planning to run 1 amp that would mean you would have to run a passive crossover for your front speakers and most likely bridge the rear channels to power only one sub or run the sub in series. Its going to push your amp to the limits and especially if your on a budget system its going to shorten the life.

[YarisSedan]

http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/stereo2.jpg

http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/stereo1.jpg

[nookandcrannycar]

Your system will be more efficient and in the end sound better

I agree 100%

if your planning to run 1 amp that would mean you would have to run a passive crossover for your front speakers and most likely bridge the rear channels to power only one sub or run the sub in series. Its going to push your amp to the limits and especially if your on a budget system its going to shorten the life.

I agree. I had 6 amps in my GTI (3 pairs), and with the most powerful pair I had each of the two dedicated to one 10" sub (each).