Jimze Supercharged 1nz-fe Build

[iwanttobeamole]

After a number of months of saving and planning, it's come time to upgrade my supercharged 2nz-fe engine in my 2000 Yaris.
I'm planning on a 1nz-fe running some lower compression pistons and stronger rods, amongst a few other things, but I'm very interested in any ideas, hints and experiences of those out there who have been down this route.

So .. My current set up is as below
Engine: 2nz-fe 1.3L, completely stock.
Jimze supercharger kit (I believe it's an Eaton M45 supercharger) with K&N CAI.
Supercharger is running up to 10.8psi at rev limit (6500rpm), but as a result the ignition timing has been pulled right back to stop the thing from detonating, give it's still running stock compression. (10.5:1)
The ECU is a Link G4 Storm which is a complete replacement. It made 74wkw (~100whp) So not terrible for a 1.3, but not anything too amazing.

The plan.
Obviously a 1nz-fe to start with. I'm planning to put some wiseco low compression pistons in. At this point I'm thinking 9:1 compression, but am open to advice here. Obviously with a larger displacement I'll be looking at a little less boost with the same S/C drive ratio. Obviously some stronger rods also, which I've sourced locally.

I'll be building the engine on a stand so have the advantage of having time to do what I want to do.
Without going overboard (as I don't have an unlimited budget) I'm looking at some amount of head work, including:
Port and polish
I'm looking at a cam grind. Kelford here in New Zealand offer a reasonably priced cam grind service.
I wouldn't mind getting some more revs out of it so perhaps some stiffer valve springs to facilitate that. I saw a set on the microimage online shop which look good.

Other than that I'm looking at a lighter flywheel. There's a JUN one available for ~38k Yen out of RHDJapan.com which looks Tidy, but for less than half of that I can get a standard flywheel lightened and balanced. Anyone got any experience here? How much lighter can you make a standard 1nz-fe flywheel?

I'm going to leave the gearbox and diff alone at this stage. Maybe that'll be the next step in the project.

As for fuel, I'm running the standard fuel rail and pump at present but with some "derestricted" 1zz injectors which now flow at ~700cc with a nice clean spray pattern.

Goal
The aim here is to make a reliable, relatively economical engine that's making somewhere in the 100-110wkw range. I drive the car a lot for work (~800km's a week) so I need it to be well behaved.

So that's the plan. As I said I'm open to any ideas or experiences that people have had specifically regarding running a lower compression setup for boost and strength.
Is there anything glaringly obvious that I've missed that I need to look at?

Also worth noting, I know I'd get more power from a turbo setup, but I'm a huge fan of a supercharger, so I'm going to stick with it for now. I might look at a turbo build at some stage in the future. :)

Here's the car and Dyno sheet from the current tune.

https://i.imgur.com/ZHFWitK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VEWpYLK.jpg

#Edit - I'm going through fixing the links to the pics because photobucket sucks. Hopefully I get them right

[CrankyOldMan]

Sweet jeebus. Eaton has the following to say about the M45 series:

The Eaton Supercharger Model 45 is designed for 2.0L to 3.0L passenger car and light truck engines, but may also be suitable for other engine sizes, depending on total system performance requirements.

Microimage also sells lightweight flywheels in a few different flavors, at price points near your 38k Yen example. They're also willing to ship internationally.

Aside from that, I can probably shed some light on the gearbox/diff questions when you get to that stage.

[cali yaris]

The aim here is to make a reliable, relatively economical engine that's making somewhere in the 100-110wkw range.

Only reason to run lower compression is to run higher boost levels and be able to tune it while avoiding detonation.

This is, I believe, not consistent with your stated power goal.

Our light flywheels are approx. 9 pounds. Stock is, as I recall, about 16 pounds?

[iwanttobeamole]

Only reason to run lower compression is to run higher boost levels and be able to tune it while avoiding detonation.

This is, I believe, not consistent with your stated power goal.

Our light flywheels are approx. 9 pounds. Stock is, as I recall, about 16 pounds?

Surely there's some benefit to lowering the compression? With the goal of pushing up to 1bar through it?

[rob323]

Can you actually get a smaller pulley to be able to increase the boost or is it something that will have to be machined up?
I see no real downside in dropping the compression slightly, but you won't be running as much boost with the std pulley on a 1NZ motor. Any headwork and cams will also drop the dynamic compression.
My plans involve swapping the rods for stronger ones but retaining the stock pistons so that no machining/ honing needs to be done. That in conjunction with cams and high octane fuel should easily keep detonation at bay.

Is the Link ecu connected to the factory knock sensor?

[iwanttobeamole]

Can you actually get a smaller pulley to be able to increase the boost or is it something that will have to be machined up?
I see no real downside in dropping the compression slightly, but you won't be running as much boost with the std pulley on a 1NZ motor. Any headwork and cams will also drop the dynamic compression.
My plans involve swapping the rods for stronger ones but retaining the stock pistons so that no machining/ honing needs to be done. That in conjunction with cams and high octane fuel should easily keep detonation at bay.

Is the Link ecu connected to the factory knock sensor?

I'd need to get a smaller pulley made up I think. There's also a possibility going slightly larger on the double pulley on the alternator but there's not a lot of room between it and the tensioner pulley. Also looking at some stiffer valve springs to facilitate more engine RPM which should help to raise the max boost.
I'll initially just get set up with the new engine, then look at upping the boost.
I think you'll be fine to stick with the stock pistons for the rally car, as higher octane fuel is a bit more feasible. As my car is a daily driver and I do ~800km a week, I'm tuned on 95 octane so it's not too expensive to run.

I know the link was tuned with a knock sensor, but I don't think it talks to the factory knock sensor during normal operation. I guess in theory the conditions shouldn't change too much as long as I stick to 95 octane or higher.

[iwanttobeamole]

Small update on the build.
I've picked up a 1nz-fe, whipped the head off, and have taken it to my friendly local cylinder head shop for a cam grind, and a bit of tarting up. (ports, valve springs etc)
The engine has done a mere 70k's (~43k miles) so as you might imagine it's in pretty good shape. Immaculate even.
Bottom end will come out next week, then the crank goes for a balance along with the flywheel which I'll get a little cut out of.
Here's a pic with the head off. Not a lot to see but there it is.
https://i.imgur.com/H2f2QyR.jpg
Valve springs and exhaust manifold to come from micro image (thanks in advance Garm :)
More soon

[iwanttobeamole]

Well after about a million years waiting for parts they've all finally arrived.
Thanks to Garm for all the bits that showed up on time. No comment on the rest

Parts List
CP 9:1 comp Pistons
Molnar rods
1nz valve spring upgrade kit
Megan racing exhaust manifold
Lightened (stock) flywheel
Excedy Clutch kit

Other stuff
Cam grind, (not sure on the new specs as I don't have the head back yet)
Was going to get a port and polish but the budget wouldn't allow
Head work to suits new cams, etc.
Full balance on crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch plate, Pulley etc.
Probably some other stuff I can't remember

Out with the old

https://i.imgur.com/h3BNLpY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VEUTIak.jpg

In with the new

https://i.imgur.com/VQOu5Tu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PuJizZ7.jpg

Bit of a pause at this stage in the post while some particularly talented person down the road thought it would be a good idea to set his neighbours car on fire. Fun times!

As with all aftermarket rods we ran into some clearance issues with the bottom of the cylinder. Hard to get a picture of it.

https://i.imgur.com/sEoYd6i.jpg

But that was easily fixed

(Video)
https://imgur.com/WqpRiBf


Don't worry, we tidied it up a little more after that.

Followed by test fitting, then rings, then piston installs, then this!
(another video)

https://imgur.com/OeTGfN7



At about this stage the Diesel (http://www.thedrinksfactory.co.nz/index.php?page=diesel) took over and we didn't get a lot more done.
Still, only a little more to do on the bottom end which we'll get into this week. I was hoping to have the head back from the head shop (Hamilton Cylinder Heads- For the best head job in town) but they couldn't quite get it done. Should have it back early next week, and hope to get that on next weekend.

Once the engine is together, we'll do the swap, with my 2nz. Then off to the tuner hopefully all before the end of the month.

Whisky time.

[cali yaris]

^ Awesome, well done! :drinking:

[iwanttobeamole]

I noticed something about the Molnar rods that didn't match the stock ones.

The stock rods have an oil gallery that feeds from the big end, through the bearing , all the way up the rod to the small end, which then feeds through the oil rings in the piston.. simple.

However, the molnar rods don't have the same oil gallery in the rods, instead they just have some holes at the small end of the rod, which look like maybe they're meant to work with oil squirters or something??



https://i.imgur.com/vjWfcQE.jpg

Red circle where the stock rods have a gallery opening, and blue arrows where the molnar rods have the holes.

My 1nz-fe has no such oil squirters/delivery system aimed at the underside of the piston.
Is it something I should be worried about or is there enough oil splashing about down there to keep the pistons/cylinders well lubed?

I'm definitely over-thinking this.

[cali yaris]

Could take a look at Pauter or Crower rods to compare.

[iwanttobeamole]

If you have something in stock and could take a look Garm it would be interesting to now if the other brands also delete that gallery.
On closer inspection of the stock rods that feed doesn't go all the way up the rod, but just goes through the side of the rod at the big and and guess squirts oil up toward the piston.

In any case we decided to keep putting the engine together. Hopefully the chaps at Molnar know what they're doing.

I picked up the head from shop tonight, and we got it in place and bolted down. got the cams in and timing chain on, before we realised that the new head bolts hadn't come with washers... *facepalm*
Still, nothing a little back peddling couldn't fix.

We also bolted up the Megan Racing exhaust manifold, but discovered that it doesn't come close to marrying up with the factory brace, so I guess we'll have to do a little fabrication there as I'm not all that keen on just deleting the brace.

Will upload some pics tomorrow.

Sleep time now.

[iwanttobeamole]

head on
https://i.imgur.com/ax0tzYq.jpg

and back off again
https://i.imgur.com/ylzwO1v.jpg

Cams GO!
https://i.imgur.com/LljwhMp.jpg

Lumpy(er than stock.. hopefully)
https://i.imgur.com/ww53yfT.jpg

Cover on
https://i.imgur.com/QiFtXQn.jpg

Exhaust Manifold Comparisons
https://i.imgur.com/CbzKaXj.jpg

Closeup of the old
https://i.imgur.com/ffwn65y.jpg

and new.
https://i.imgur.com/ZqO7397.jpg

Minor problem with the Megan Racing exhaust manifold..
IE.. it's the wrong shape for the factory brace.

https://i.imgur.com/7kWTdsN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NtmEHwp.jpg

(edit - Turns out the newer 1nz-fe had a brace to suit so an easy fix after a visit to the wreckers)


Hopefully it clears the firewall, but I think there's plenty of room there.
Also of note is the plate on the manifold need a bit of machining to get it actually straight, but given the price I can't complain too much :)

Got the use of a workshop on the weekend of the 22nd/23rd to do the engine swap. Tune booked for Monday 24th. Can't wait!

[iwanttobeamole]

Incidentally, the car in the background of a couple of shots is a mates AE86 + Beams 3SGE with stacks.

it sounds like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBWaTi18ynE

[iwanttobeamole]

Found the specs from the cam grind

Stock
https://i.imgur.com/JnOoXxq.jpg

After Grind

https://i.imgur.com/e14Xutb.jpg


Also had an awesome response from Tom Molnar of Molnar technologies explaining their process and design for their rods. Awesome info from an awesome guy. Gave me some peace of mind about the rods and build in general. Thanks Tom!!

[iwanttobeamole]

On Friday night we headed down to a mates workshop to do the install.
Started at about 4:30pm, and finished up about 11 hours later.

The new donk
https://i.imgur.com/Zm0Rxth.jpg

removal of the old engine with proprietary engine lifting system (yes it's an old ambulance stretcher)
https://i.imgur.com/maTYMr2.jpg

Engine out
https://i.imgur.com/dPL2IbK.jpg

Fitting the new clutch and lightened flywheel. (turbo for scale)
https://i.imgur.com/CX0Wskz.jpg

Gave the intake manifold a tidy up as it was fairly dirty/oily in there from blowby (oil catch can now fitted.
https://i.imgur.com/vaps54D.jpg

At this point we also noted that there were some black marks in the old gasket goo between the S/C and the manifold suggesting it was leaking. I also tested the butterfly valve that is used for the bypass, which was also leaking heavily when I was just blowing through it.

So we sorted that out.
https://i.imgur.com/BC7TEz4.jpg

Less boost leaking out is always a good thing.
Had to find a bung to close up the return hole for the bypass valve.
Milk bottle to and a little glue sorted that issue out.


https://i.imgur.com/VszZWs3.jpg


here's where the fun started.
https://i.imgur.com/NCkdDPs.jpg

The 2nz block is shorter than the 1nz block, and as it turns out that difference is somewhere between the alternator and the supercharger. We had to get a little creative as the alternator didn't reach it's tensioning slot.. so we had to improvise a little.

Got some washers, brazed them together, then cut them so they would support the other side of the alternator tensioner bolt, and just clamped it up so it grabbed the bottom of the slider bar. It's a little rangi mods, but it works for now.
https://i.imgur.com/EPIxm84.jpg

We'll fix that properly later

##Edit## 6 years have passed. it's still the same. (see page 3 for details)

Also the 4PK 540 belt is JUST long enough to get around the two pulleys with no requirement for a tensioner bearing at all. I'll look at getting a longer belt at some point but the tension is about perfect at the moment so it's all set for the dyno tomorrow.

We had to slightly modify the bonnet as the S/C now sits a little higher, but we only needed to remove some of the fibreglass bracing material. It's a pretty close fit with the bonnet down, but it should be ok.
So we got it all back into the car, turned it over and it started straight away, and felt good, if a little loud with the exhaust not mounted up yet. It was getting on toward 4am so I got a little slack with the photos. Went back today to finish up a few things and tidy the workshop.

Last thing to do tomorrow morning is to take the car down to the muffler shop and get the exhaust modified to fit the megan racing header which was on a different angle and location to the stock setup, and the flange is a bit different. Should be able to sort it before leaving at 1pm, for the tune which is at 3:30 pm :)

Will report back in a little over 24 hours with the results.

I'm just hoping it doesn't grenade on the dyno because I forgot to tighten something somewhere.. :S

[malibuguy]

That header is for a later yaris...the echos/vitz has an outlet thats straight back. First gen scion xB and xA are the same as well. Plenty of proper fitting headers availible for your chassis.

[iwanttobeamole]

Got the exhaust all sorted and headed to the dyno on Monday.
Got a bit of base tuning done, then got it onto the dyno.
https://i.imgur.com/FCnC6Qe.jpg

Well... First and foremost, then engine didn't explode! which is a bonus.

Did a few runs to check things out, and it was all looking good. By the looks of things though the boost has dropped quite a bit with the new capacity. it's only making about 8psi now where it was almost hitting 11 with the 1.3.
Unfortunately we we got to about 80kw, and the clutch started slipping. I had bought a decent exedy clutch, but it ended up being the wrong size, so had to get another at short notice, which turned out to be a pile of shit.

So we left the tune at that.. Lin (tuner) tidied it up a little and we pulled it off the dyno and I headed home.

On the bright side, it'll give the engine a nice wear in period, and give me some time to fit up a larger 1zz throttle body and get a new pulley made for the supercharger.

These M45's are the same S/C as the mini cooper S uses, and there's a lot of guys running up to 1bar through them, so I'm going to aim for something closer to that and hope the damn thing doesn't melt.

[ilikerice]

awesome build thread. love your car.

[iwanttobeamole]

https://i.imgur.com/QqQg0Aj.jpg

More to come soon.

[cali yaris]

underdrive s/c pulley? Sweet!

[iwanttobeamole]

So.....
it turns out that supercharger RPM is not directly proportional to boost.
I wanted 50% more boost, so I made the supercharger spin 50% fast. What this got me however was about 200% more boost, about 15psi at 2,000 RPM. Too much!
So.. back to the drawing board, I had another pulley made that increased pulley RPM by approx 22%, and this seems to have done the trick. It's installed and going well so far, but the ecu is set to boost cut at about 12psi, which it now hits at about 3500RPM.
Had to tweak the belts up pretty tight but they don't seem to be slipping so that's good.
Tune is booked for next Thursday.

[ilikerice]

15lbs is what i want out of a supercharger. Can that charger hold that much boost?

[cali yaris]

awesome

[iwanttobeamole]

I was a little slack updating this but just before the end of last year I got this sorted out.
Had another pulley made with a 22% increase in diameter, which landed me this result.

(dotted line is the last run with the smaller pulley)
https://i.imgur.com/j1dOWon.jpg

Boost is sitting at 0.9bar (13.25psi)

While the kw figure isn't too high at 89.6wkw (121whp for you non metric types) the torque figure went up another 20%! It's quite something to drive now.
Also worth noting here that it was tuned with reliability and economy in mind on 95 octane, not 98 (which is available here in NZ).

Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.


Here's a bonus pic of my new intake pipe to fit the 55mm throttle body (4 bolt type from an 1zz)

https://i.imgur.com/lGH0icf.jpg

[hare]

is it no way to factory bolt on to the 1zz throttle body?
thanks for your sharing,really enjoy it!

[iwanttobeamole]

is it no way to factory bolt on to the 1zz throttle body?
thanks for your sharing,really enjoy it!

There seem to be two different sorts of 1zz cable type throttle bodies (as opposed to fly-by-wire ones) One is a 50mm three bolt, and seems to swap to the 45mm yaris one just fine(according to other peoples experience, I never did this) The other is a 55mm 4 bolt type, which, as I was getting a new intake arm anyway, I chose to use as it's larger.

hope this helps :)

[abstractmethod]

Great write up mate, keep us posted :D

[iwanttobeamole]

hi ive just bought a jimze charger and its fucked do you recon there is any chance i could use the mini cooper s charger with my tb and manifold on it? they look different to me but they are both m45 arnt they? cheers
While the model is the same the housing looks quite different. Also I believe the mini S/C has some sort of oil pump built in, so that could complicate matters.

What's wrong with the s/c you bought? I know that sometimes the teflon coating fails but that can be re-done.

[iwanttobeamole]

Finally got around to making a little video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bib0UsTL82Q) of the car.

Enjoy :)

[rob323]

Great build up.
Are you still using a standard gearbox?

[CrankyOldMan]

LOVE the sound! I've finally gotten my S/C build under control and it's been phenomenally fun to drive.

[iwanttobeamole]

Great build up.
Are you still using a standard gearbox?

Still using the stock gearbox. It seems to be handling the extra torque fine.

I've just been offered a 6 bolt TRD LSD for it, but sadly I'm now selling the car to make room for another project so I'll have to decline. :(
If I had the garaging I'd probably keep it cos it's SO MUCH FUN!

[Ryze268]

Nooooooo, keep the Vitz dream alive :(

[iwanttobeamole]

So ... this happened.

https://i.imgur.com/agBpmUL.jpg

[iwanttobeamole]

Ok so that was a bit cryptic.
I've fixed the links in the build thread now, driven by a seething hatred for photobucket.

Here's the short version
I sold the car in ~2014.
In 2019 I saw it come up for sale but, it had been re-shelled (assume it was crashed?) and it was a bit shabby. While I liked the idea, didn't want the headache.
Turns out a friend of a friend (Genuine GC) bought it, tidied a lot of the shabbyness up. I got talking to him at the time he bought it and gave him the history and the car and offered any help I could assist with, but also mentioned the old... " if you sell it, tell me first"
Well....
His wife's just had baby #2. He emailed me last week and asked if I was interested.. then made me an offer I couldn't refuse..
My circumstances have changed and now I have a bit more space, (but no more time).
So now I have, most of (the important bits) my old car back.
I've just drive down country with it (about 500kms) and aside from the supercharger being slightly skewed so the belt hops over one tooth, it's running very well.

From my memory of 6-7 years ago the power is still good, the seats are still terrible, and I think the new chassis is better than the old one (less rattles etc)
All the important pieces have been swapped to the new shell so that's good!.

I always felt like the project wasn't complete, but my dream car came up (JDM Honda Integra DC5, with a K24/K20 hybrid motor already done) came up. (which I've now supercharged also....) and at the time I didn't have the space, time , or money to deal with a second project car.
Now I have the chance to complete the project and hopefully realise it's full potential.
Here's the list.

Full exhaust ( currently most of it are stock at I believe 1.75")
Intercooler - The aim is to modify the manifold or build a new one that allows for the charge to be intercooled
Sort out VVT-i which seems to be weirdly non-effective. (research required)
Fit wideband
Tune



Obviously having dredged this post up from the dark ages, I mean to keep it updated, so, I guess, Watch this space.

[CrankyOldMan]

The older I get, the smaller the world gets. Great to see that it came back to you, and in good condition!

[06YarisRS]

This is great! So happy to see more discussion about forced induction Yari! Yay!

[iwanttobeamole]

Small update.
Got a boost gauge and mounted it up.
Was able to test drive the car and check the boost levels which seem to be much the same as before, around 0.9bar or just over 13PSI.
Love the response out of a positive displacement supercharger.
Little Video here (https://imgur.com/m6V5LjV)


Final pillar mount setup. Not all that pretty, but I'm all about function over form.
https://i.imgur.com/dqkyyMw.png

Catching up with a mate this week and we'll discuss the plan to modify the intake manifold to output and input so I can run it through an intercooler.

Also making plans to finally fix the exhaust which is stock (I believe 1.75") between the (Megan Racing) headers and rear muffler.
I'm thinking we'll go 2.5" all the way through with a nice center resolator, and decent rear muffler.
Will also be fitting up a wideband at the same time for future tuning etc. Not too sure where I'll be mounting all the gauges yet. Maybe in the little center top sunglasses? holder if they fit.

More as it happens.

[CrankyOldMan]

I ran stock exhaust up until I did the 1.8 swap, then went to 2.25. I think 2.5 may be hard to route as well as overkill. I started with a straight pipe from the first cat to a Dynomax VT muffler (has a flap like our stock one) and added an inline "race bullet" where the stock resonator goes to take out some of the drone. Pretty happy with the result, considering how much engineering goes into an OEM exhaust.

[06YarisRS]

Also making plans to finally fix the exhaust which is stock (I believe 1.75") between the (Megan Racing) headers and rear muffler.
I'm thinking we'll go 2.5" all the way through with a nice center resolator, and decent rear muffler.

This is basically the same setup I have. Front to back:
3" downpipe with two 02 sensor ports -> 3" x 2.5" reducing coupler -> high flow CAT (with downstream 02 port) -> 18" "cherry bomb" style muffler -> rear turbo (Walker) 2.5" in, 2.5" out muffler -> 2.5" x 4" SS stubby exhaust tip. Mine was all crush bent so probably not as free-flowing as a 2.25" mandrel bent setup. But, it works great and EGTs are good.

Cranky is right. 2.5 was hard to get tucked up in there. If I had more money, I would go for a mandrel bent SS system.

[myfirstyota]

I have the magnaflow ss 2.25" system from exhaust manifold to muffler in the 2zr swapped car (still need a nice free flowing muffler). Its a nice setup but set me back over 600cad.

[06YarisRS]

I have the magnaflow ss 2.25" system from exhaust manifold to muffler in the 2zr swapped car (still need a nice free flowing muffler). Its a nice setup but set me back over 600cad.

Yes, I think I mentioned earlier that I almost had one. TDot Performance listed them but they were out of stock. They kept the listing up for a long time after. It is a beautiful looking system. You must be really happy with it. I bet is sounds great too.

[myfirstyota]

Yes, I think I mentioned earlier that I almost had one. TDot Performance listed them but they were out of stock. They kept the listing up for a long time after. It is a beautiful looking system. You must be really happy with it. I bet is sounds great too.

Hard to tell how the sound is. The car is currently running the stock scion xd muffler.

I also cut the fender side out of the oem air box, removed the charcoal filter and obviously the silencer horn as it's useless with the side of the air box missing.

The muffler is the biggest bottleneck in the system. I'll get a nice one installed this spring when the beast comes home from storage. But even with it's current setup, I'm content with the sound.

[iwanttobeamole]

Well.. I guess that was Covid.
Further updates. Short version.
The pulley came loose for some reason (possibly the nut came loose and flogged out the keyway, possible the keyway came loose, flogged itself out ,and loosened the nut.
Either way what it needed was a new input shaft and pulley.
Located said items at superchargersonline.com (Thanks David) for the intake shaft and rebuild kit (might as well do the bearings while I'm at it) and pulleyboys.com for the pulley.....s.
I figured since I plan to intercool it I might end up loosing some pressure so got a 3.0" and a 2.8" just in case I need to spin it a little faster.
Those arrived today
https://i.imgur.com/wSwGm4a.jpg

Also dropped the manifold off to a local outfit to have it vapourblasted to clean it up for welding as it's cast aluminium. (yes I spelt that correctly)

Once the shaft and snout rebuild kit arrive I can re-assemble that.
Meanwhile here's the list
- Get the intake manifold modified to output the charge through the front/bottom,
- Procure and mount intercooler
- Plumb said intercooler to manifold
- Mount new open element air intake temp sensor into the manifold somewhere.
- Rebuild S/C snout and re-assemble.
- re-assemble
- Exhaust
- Tune
- Skids

More soon!

[thebarber]

fwiw, i had the blitz with a DC header and a 2.25" exhaust (back end of resonator to a megan axleback muffler) and was happy. 2.5 wouldve been at bit big, i wager.

[iwanttobeamole]

The work continues.
https://i.imgur.com/DlwHGjW.png
More soon

[Gorilla]

Welcome back mate! I remember seeing the car up for sale as I always trawl NZ FB Market Place and Trademe! You have to look into getting a C56 from the Vitz RS, there are a few wreckers in NZ that will have them. I put one in mine (LSD From Turbo Model) and its probably my favourite mod. Shorter ratios and LSD.

[malibuguy]

heads up about the Megan axle backs. I had one come in on a Yaris hatchie years ago and inside the muffler core was 1.5-1.75" tops. Keeps it quiet but sure as shit not much of an improvement in flow.

[iwanttobeamole]

So..
Supercharger parts arrived (ages ago) and I've gotten the blower reassembled with the new shaft, bearings, and pulley.
https://i.imgur.com/lWyFRG5.png

Blocked up the "silencer" holes with some aluminium wedges and welded those in, then some 2 part epoxy (loctite stuff, but same same as J weld) Should make good noises now.

https://i.imgur.com/SohUezV.png

Finished and fitted up the modified intake manifold

https://i.imgur.com/1hZFaIw.png


Bought and fitted up a "same side" intercooler.
https://i.imgur.com/Q2NzYHZ.png

And plumbed it.

https://i.imgur.com/pp9RElf.png

https://i.imgur.com/XcjupUP.png

Slapped it all back together and cut a dirty great hole in the front bumper (don't judge me)

https://i.imgur.com/mqRWsfb.jpg

As there are no gaskets for this setup I've used RTV which is drying now. Should be good for a test run tomorrow.
*excite*

[iwanttobeamole]

Aaaaand now it sounds like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7g1UYw7D9U
Note: Lots of belt slip due to the accessory belt being a bit loose.

Evidently those silencer holes I blocked up REALLY make it a lot quieter.

Now.. the main motivation for this build is definitely the lols but.. this was a bit much.
Turns out a noisy supercharger at low revs with no bypass or silencer slots/holes sounds like every gearbox bearing is about to have a critical failure. This meant that literally everyone I drove passed looked at me with that "that car is about to explode" look. While I don't care about.. well.. people. I tended to agree with them in this instance.
Another issue I experienced was that, because of the increase in the volume between the supercharger and engine, and the lack of bypass valve, coming off throttle was less responsive than desired and resulting in... throttle hang? EG: if you come off throttle and onto the clutch to change gears, you'd get an unwanted rev blip while the existing volume of already compressed air in the intercooler, plumbing and manifold was used up by the engine.

So.... I busted out the old parts from the previous iterations of this car (which I have kept .. because. . you know, they might be useful) and have now reinstalled the bypass valve which bypasses the supercharger (actually it just equalises the pressure) while in vacuum, and closes off once the blower makes positive pressure. Pretty normal supercharger stuff.

So this of course required some highly accurate measurements then a trip to a friends place for some tig goodness.

https://i.imgur.com/rDnLZVE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3g9EBgC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qoanMkH.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/T705MKJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/v0aNdLD.jpg



Then.. a quick bit of fabrication and..

https://i.imgur.com/5D9hxSC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CXFZc6y.jpg

I hoped that the installation of the bypass valve would resolve this issue, and.. I WAS RIGHT! With the bypass in place the car now drives like it did before, but now the intercooler is in place I expect a lower intake temp and therefore the hope to be able to advance timing and make a bit more power.

Interestingly the boost level at the manifold has dropped from about 13psi to about 9. I haven't found a chart to back it up, but I think at least some of this is from the drop in temperature. HOWEVER, I've noticed a couple of things. Firstly, the car feels about as fast as it was before, and secondly the belt doesn't seem to slip nearly as much as before. It's hard compare, but I'm 97% sure that before I NEVER had a run to rev limit (7200RPM) without belt slip. Now, even with the tensioner for the supercharger belt maxxed out and the belt not that tight, it holds. The car makes good power all the way to red line, albeit limited noticably at higher revs by the extremely restrictive exhaust. More on that soon though.

The other issues that appeared, somewhat predictably, is that the larger silicon joiners, (the 90 degree and 45 degree ones specifically) tried to turn themselves inside out every time the car was in vacuum. This was not ideal, so I ended up sleeving the joiners with some 2" alloy bends I had laying about. This experience, while painful (many many cuts to my delicate indoor typing fingers) was successful, and the joiners now hold their shape under vacuum.


So.. next on the list.. going to see my chap tomorrow to make a plan for the exhaust. Once that's freed up and the wideband installed, wire in the AIT sensor and head to the tuner for road and dyno tuning.

I have no idea what it'll make. It made 90wkw before with lots of things wrong. I don't want to put any unrealistic figures in my head, but I feel like the intercooler and exhaust should free up a good about of, specially top end power.

More to come so stay tuned (assuming anyone is still tuned?)

[CrankyOldMan]

Definitely staying tuned!

[iwanttobeamole]

A little update. We've started on the exhaust and found that the megan Racing headers I had put on the car some 5+ years ago have not aged well. Lots of cracks in the runners and welds, so now I'm either in the market for a new set of headers, or failing that maybe we can use the main flange and rebuild the manifold.
If anyone has a line on a decent exhaust manifold that's going to last more than a few years I'm all ears. All the old shops I used for parts in the past seem to have closed (mirco image etc)

Really hoping to get something underway before christmas.

[iwanttobeamole]

Here's what the old headers look like
https://i.imgur.com/nYiZnrq.png
https://i.imgur.com/qPIJUJ4.png

In the interest of getting something sorted before the end of the year I've ordered a new set of "OBX" headers from ebay which look like they rolled off the same assembly line as these.

One other thing I noticed is that the port alignment with these headers was TERRIBLE. approx 5-6mm out at one end of the flange, so that won't have been helping.
Will be checking the alignment on the new set before we install them.

ETA Dec 6-30th. Gotta love living at the bottom of the world (hey well.. least we don't have any Covid down here)

[mannycheckers]

Those headers look toast! Let me know what you think of the OBX headers. I have been looking for some aftermarket headers lately. Many people swear by DC Sports Headers.

[iwanttobeamole]

one two miss a few... woopsiedaiseys now it's June.

Still.. some progress!

New headers arrived.
https://i.imgur.com/KI5y8ml.jpg

They're a banana

https://i.imgur.com/oqsLref.jpg

So off that went to the machine shop to get machined.
Meanwhile my tame mechanic has been practicing with the tig..

https://i.imgur.com/UrkKs1n.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/VS6w7EK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZKOtXYL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GvWGaqj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zYLgdqE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qeCTf0r.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bMgOWrR.jpg



hmm.. sexy..

Then came the intercooler issue. Turns out the "same side" intercooler was a little restrictive and dropped my boost from about 13psi to about 9..

So that's gone in the bin (https://imgur.com/hD3fnYD.jpg) and I've got a straight through one. it's the same size, but just passes straight through.

So mounted and plumbed that up.

https://i.imgur.com/cS6HxVC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/50PDu9u.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/r3M4kKU.jpg

Had to replace the factory fan with a slim line one which fitted up nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/UxTMGrx.jpg

Then put it all back together.

https://i.imgur.com/vSMpbCS.jpg


with a little tweaking the bumper even went back on!

This bumper was pretty trashed so I decided not to care about the hole for the intercooler. I'll (probably) get a replacement at some stage and then get it cut out a little more nicely but for the meantime this is fine.

https://i.imgur.com/vuohodW.jpg

So with the new intercooler on, the boost was still sitting around 10-11psi, which is a little lower than I wanted. I guess just cooling the air makes it more dense/less boost. Given it was running about 15psi, with some rough calculations the intake temp could be as high as 170c it's reasonable to expect a significant pressure drop with air temps coming down to.. well.. lower. I have mounted an open element IAT sensor inside the manifold now, and on some lower boost runs (6-7psi) the intake temp didn't get above 30c, so .. that's good!
I have bene pretty hesitant to push it too much as with the new exhaust and intercooler the thing's running pretty lean (14:1 is the richest I was seeing on the wideband)

Anywyas, 10psi isn't enough so a quick trip to a friends garage to borrow a pulley puller...

https://i.imgur.com/948ToT5.png

The puller actually wouldn't clear the headlight support so we undid the engine mount and jacked the motor up so it would clear.

Off with the 3.0" and on with the 2.8" to give it a little more boost. Again being pretty dainty as it's leaning out, but I saw the boost hit about 13psi at higher revs so hopefully seeing a bit higher at full revs/throttle once the tune is fixed.

Speaking of I'm booked in with my tuner for a dyno session on tuesday, so will post results once that's done.

Hopefully the new exhaust, intercooler and extra sensors (AIT and wideband) have a net positive result.

Before I sold the car the first time it was makine about 90wkw, but falling way off at the top end due to hot air and tiny exhaust. I'd like to make 120wkw, but.. at the end of the day I'll get what I'm given. Also this is a different dyno (rolling road) and definitely seems to measure a little lower than my old tuner (I moved down country a few years ago).
That said the aim isn't to make a rocket ship, just a good fun little car which, as long as it doesn't grenade on the dyno, I can't see if failing to achieve.


Anyways. that's enough for now.
More after the dyno session. Only two sleeps to go!

[CrankyOldMan]

Looks great! Shame about the banana plate on the manifold.

[iwanttobeamole]

Well.. dyno day is upon us.

A few minors but the car successfully did a dyno run.. just.. the one mind.
https://i.imgur.com/C6MVik0.png

So that was a initial run with no real work in it, no VVTI timing.. so, I feel like there's plenty more on the table.

The second run however was a lot less successful.

https://i.imgur.com/FIhb2NU.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/mGNr545.jpg?1

It appears the crank pulley had come somewhat loose and sheared it's rollpin. (It didn't fall off, this was after we removed it)
So tomorrow is for a new pulley and pin, then back to the dyno hopefully friday to finish it off.

Needless to say I'm extremely happy with the power result. This dyno calculates the power at the crank but even so I think we're already at or above my stated goal of 120wkw and it feels like there's plenty left.
The fuel system seems to be holding up so far, so fingers crossed it makes it. my my calculations it should be good to at least 200whp.

More to come.

[CrankyOldMan]

Yep, went through a few pins and a few aluminum crank pulleys with the Blitz. The pin shearing off like that is intentional--don't replace it with a hardened/solid pin or you risk having to replace the whole crank next time.

[iwanttobeamole]

Well we acquiring a new crank pulley.. then realised it didn't have the pulley for the PS pump. *sigh* Fortunately you don't need PS for a dyno, so off it went!
The results after a dyno and road tune were a good bump in mid range power, but no more peak.
https://i.imgur.com/Y03LbVu.png

Still I'm very happy.. Very roughly speaking that's about 130wkw (compared to 90wkw before) so a fantastic gain.
It's possible the crank pulley we got was smaller (haven't measured them back to back yet) though as boost seems to have dropped with that on, (was 0.8 bar and now a bit below that at higher revs) so it's possible it'll pick up a little more boost with the right pulley fitted.
Also of note is the tuner didn't get any VVTI action. Something's not quite right and it's causing the VVTI tuning to just be.. weird. It's possible the ECU itself doesn't understand it, but also possible something isn't mechanically right. I'll look into it at some stage, but.. until then I'm pretty happy with the power.

There's a lot more to do on the car. Lots of general tidy up, a couple of little oil leaks. Some bushes are shot, the sway bar linkages we got don't fit properly, it needs an alignment, etc etc.
I've also picked up some bride reclinable seats and some rails but they need a bit of modding to fit them up.

So I guess more to come!

[iwanttobeamole]

Yep, went through a few pins and a few aluminum crank pulleys with the Blitz. The pin shearing off like that is intentional--don't replace it with a hardened/solid pin or you risk having to replace the whole crank next time.

Weird.. This has been together for 8 years making up to 1bar of boost (that's 14.5 barley corns for you americans) and it's been fine. I think it just came loose.

How much boost were you running through your blitz?

[CrankyOldMan]

that's 14.5 barley corns for you americans
HA! I love Matt Parker!
How much boost were you running through your blitz?

No more than 6 or 7 lbs, the Ogura compressor (TX-07) is only about 700cc/rev. The real damage was done by the magnetic clutch pulley turning on and off because there's no auto-tensioner to absorb the sudden change of tension on the belt. Here's a video of a high-performance car under acceleration that has one: https://youtu.be/5NnMuyifPA4

[iwanttobeamole]

well... shit.

https://i.imgur.com/pE67paA.png?2

Clutch stopped disengaging the other day and I knew what was wrong.
Pulled the gearbox and found this horrible CI (Clutch Industries) piece of garbage in place of the lovely exedy I had installed ??? years ago.
It was of course in it's natural state of "in bits" so.. that's gotta go IN THE BIN!

New clutch collected today and flywheel machined, so hoping to get that back on this weekend, and then more whining!

Before the clutch desided to commit hari kari however the car drove very nicely. Still a little loud for my liking, but puts the power down well (except in the wet) and all the daily drive tuning is very smooth on account of the excellent tuner.

I still have all the tidy up to do, but will potter away at that in the not too distant future.

[iwanttobeamole]

Soooo.. Update time.

new clutch arrived and I've fitted that up, along with various seals etc. I got it all back together and then discovered the gearbox leaking from the passengers side drive shaft oil seal. I guess I must have knocked it when installing the drive shaft. a bit annoying but an easy fix.
Also it turns out the VVTI solenoid had taken a knock at some stage so the housing was moving under pressure and squirting oil down the front of the engine and all over the belts. So fixed that and I think that's all of the leaks sorted! I think..

So.. Story time. It's a stupid story, but this is what I learnt.


With my original setup in the red vitz, I had the stock supercharger on the stock manifold with no bypass. That setup did 50000+ km's and was absolutely fine, but obviously with an ECU that was tuned to deal with it .. etc.

When I had the supercharger off, I decided to block up the "silencer" holes in the supercharger to make it make more noise. This caused the supercharger to make a LOT more noise, and.. to be honest.. I hated it, specially as it was always making noise, as there was no bypass. At low revs it sounded like a gearbox bearing had shit the bed.

To remedy this, I decided to reinstall the bypass valve, so it would no longer try and pressurise at low throttle/boost as the bypass would be open when not making boost. This .. worked to a degree, but the supercharger was still WAY too noisy ( there's various vids on my youtube with the supercharger being noisy)

As it happened I had stuffed up the gasket sealant stuff (red gasket goo) when I first re-assembled my supercharger, so had to pull it off again. I decided then to remove the silencer bungs and quieten the thing down,

4B. - side note, as it happens I think the intercooler setup actually lets out a bit more of the supercharger whine and now with that in place, but no silencer bungs in, the supercharger sounds perfect!


WIth all that done, I was making just under 11psi, and that's how it was tuned making 200hp.

Since then I had the thought.. I wonder if the bypass valve causes a boost leak.. I had done some research and that suggested that a bypass valve that didn't seal properly didn't matter, as the volume of air that was going into the engine was so great a small leak wouldn't make any notable difference. that said.. I had a feeling. I found the old plate I made years ago to block off the hole in the manifold where the bypass valve fits up, and managed to slip that under the bypass.
Now I didn't use any sealant and it's pretty leaky as it is, (the idle is a bit inconsistent as a result but meh.. testing) but on testing it, I'm now making 12,5-13psi, and the car feels AWESOME!. A really noticeable increase in power, and that's with the plate being leaky.

So.. the TL:DR.

Don't block silencer holes on an M45. It might sound cool on a larger supercharger, but it sounds terrible on the m45.
If you're running an aftermarket ECU (and probably need larger injectors which you should have anyway) you can safely block off the bypass valve. This should net you a few extra PSI.

Since blocking it off my crank pulley came loose (again) and I'm now waiting on some replacement rollpins before I refit it and tighten the bejesus out of it while using a large amount of red loctite.
I do of course plan to pull the intake pipe and and bypass assembly off and seal it up properly. I'll probably leave it in place but just remove the vacuum line to the actuator for now.

Hoping to have that sorted out in the next few days anyways..

Here's a little vid (https://youtu.be/5a0JFeYOQCY) of a 0-100..ish.. with the bypass blocked.

[iwanttobeamole]

Further update and a long shot,
The car's been going pretty great, other than a little electrical gremlin I've not had a chance to diagnose yet because..
I noticed the supercharger sounds a bit.. noisy. Bearing sort of noise, so I decided to hav a fish and see that it had some oil in it.
I did this using a syringe but what came out was very silvery oil. The sort you can chase around with a magnet. Not ideal.
I pulled the supercharger and discovered that it looks like the front plate bearings (not snout) appear to be shot. There's a LOT of end float in the sprockets that attach through to the rotors. So now I'm looking at servicing or replacement options.
Here in New Zealand I've found one guy who has any idea what's involved and he wants LARGE sums of money to replace the bearings, mostly because the job is a royal pain in the ass. I get it, annoying jobs are annoying.
So my options are,
- Replace the supercharger with another Jackson racing M45 (RARE)
- Try and find a replacement rotor pack from somewhere. I've found thehighspeedlab.com who do a rotor pack swap option for my supercharger but with shipping a rotor pack half way across the world twice get's pretty expensive.
- Try and modify the setup to accept another type of supercharger. I *think* the Mercedes M62 has the same diameter and could mayyyyybe I could swap the snout over, change the plate, but.. I honestly think it'll make too much boost, which.. while it's a nice idea, probably won't work.


orrr.. and here's the long shot. Does anyone have a Jimze supercharger laying about they might want to sell?
Yeah yeah it's a shot in the dark but.. figured it was worth asking.

More to come.

[Ronnie V]

Ah man, I feel your pain. I waited all summer last summer trying to source a new clutch for my TTE/Ogura. I finally gave up and had Kawi Performance rebuild the charger and repack the clutch assembly with grease.......it feels nice and tight again. They are currently trying to refit a GM clutch to the Ogura charger, hopefully it works out and all the Blitz chargers sitting around broken can come back out and play......

Its been snowing since November in Canada so I have yet to hit the open road with it rebuilt.......

Sounds like you are at the bad part of the process, are M45's rare in North America as well? I have a friend with a Greddy Supercharger on his Vitz, what is that based on?

Hopefully you can get yours sorted.......I assume you have a built bottom end making 200hp? I was told never to make more than 150 if its a stock engine.

Really excited for this season, so excited I posted! I never post.

Good Luck to you, I know how fun these cars are with a blower.......and how slow without. ;)