adjusted handbrake...woohoo down to 1 click!

[Yarflana]

Well, adjusted the much needed hand brake (at the rear wheels...not the handle itself) and after putting on the stainless lines, bleeding and handbrake adjustment, the brakes, even without a pad or shoe change yet (coming next month), the brakes are better than in a long time.

Just wanted to say thanks to those who put up the DIY on this and chimed in to make those little steps worthwhile to do it easily and without fail.

Pat

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Wait, it only takes one click to fully engage the handbrake? I think that's bad. Isn't it supposed to be 3-4 clicks at minimum or else you'll constantly be riding the shoes?

[Yarflana]

Good point, but not on mine. Before riding off into the sunset, I tested the rear wheel freedom after actuating the hand brake after adjustment and all was fine. I think 3-4 clicks is just a "stock" adjustment point, but you can actually get it tighter without rubbing.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Ah, I see. I didn't want to take the chance, so always hovered at 4-5 clicks :laugh:

[Yarflana]

Yeah when I work on the brakes, I always give it a good workout before I put the tires back on and do a test drive.

After we bled the brakes the other day after changing to the stainless lines, I jammed on that pedal hard about 20 times to check for leaks and other stuff...you just cannot afford a failure on the road due to shadetree mechanic negligence.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Yeah when I work on the brakes, I always give it a good workout before I put the tires back on and do a test drive.

After we bled the brakes the other day after changing to the stainless lines, I jammed on that pedal hard about 20 times to check for leaks and other stuff...you just cannot afford a failure on the road due to shadetree mechanic negligence.

+1. Brakes are very important.

[nookandcrannycar]

Good point, but not on mine. Before riding off into the sunset, I tested the rear wheel freedom after actuating the hand brake after adjustment and all was fine. I think 3-4 clicks is just a "stock" adjustment point, but you can actually get it tighter without rubbing.

^^^^^This. I took my car to a local shop to have the brakes checked last year. My pads were only 20% worn. The sound war coming from the rear brakes. Just dust build up that needed cleaning out, and they also made the hand brake adjustment you speak of. When I picked the car up, the hand brake was also at 1 click, and there was no rubbing.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Might adjust my brakes even more then. :)

[Yarflana]

After putting on the stainless lines, bleeding the system really good and tightening the handbrake, the pedal travel is 50% less, the feel is twice as firm as before and this all before I even change pads, shoes, drums, and discs.

I guess you get used to some pretty crappy stuff after 100k and no adjustments.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

After putting on the stainless lines, bleeding the system really good and tightening the handbrake, the pedal travel is 50% less, the feel is twice as firm as before and this all before I even change pads, shoes, drums, and discs.

I guess you get used to some pretty crappy stuff after 100k and no adjustments.

I just recently changed my break fluid for the first time with Valvoline DOT3/4 fluid. I noticed less pedal travel to brake, at the same time, I have no clue why my car doesn't nose dive when braking anymore. Very odd feeling, and not expected, since it doesn't feel like I'm slowing down, but I see my speed falling. :laugh:

I've been constantly adjusting the rear drums to hover around the 4-5 clicks I said earlier. I'll probably readjust them down to 2 clicks on Friday after washing the car. :smile:


I changed my front pads to the Carbotech street pads a few years ago. Much better bite than stock, but more noisy and dusty (easier to clean off the not-so-abrasive dust of the Carbotech pads) than the stock pads.