I'm going boosted!

[yariSB86]

So I've finally made the call to go boosted. I'm going to install the Zage turbo kit.
Here is what I was thinking. Any and all input is greatly appreciated as this is my first turbo build.

Glowshift gauges:
-Boost/vacuum
-Oil pressure
-Wideband (afr)

Auto Gauge:
-Tachometer

Scan Gauge II
-for code reading

Zage Turbo kit, including the AEM F/IC + Boomslang harness

I've done some research to see what additional parts/misc items I may need. Its a long list, I feel confident it should suffice. With that said. Is there anything anyone would like to add/comment on? Feel free to add your .02. (if you suggest an item/misc part, I will simply quote you saying either its already on the list or thanking you for letting me know I need/should have it)

Thanks all.

-B


EDIT: References for shopping list/misc parts:
Preinstall guide (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30813)
Zage install guide (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30375)

[Scubaru Steve]

sounds like a good list,
one thing i would steer clear of are the glow shift gauges.
i installed them on the echo. the boost guage is not accurate unless you are at sea level
and the buttons rattle like crazy.

go all autometer, as for wideband spend the money and get a good one.
innovate (my favourite) you can calibrate and cheep replacement sensors
aem wideband is also a great option.
if doing a boost controler just get the aem trueboost and call it a day.

[kou]

Good list. I would upgrade the oil return off the turbo.

[yariSB86]

@Scubaru - How would the boost gauge not be accurate unless at sea level?

@Kou - how would I upgrade the oil return line?

[cali yaris]

^ The best install is to run the oil return line into the block, above the oil line. There are pictures and a thread about it. You just need a couple of fittings and a line. I would still use the Zage pan provided with the plug that comes with it.

On the gauges, at the very least spend the extra money for a really good air/fuel gauge. It will become your intimate friend.

[yariSB86]

@Garm - Are you referring to "tapping into the block" for the oil return?

[fnkngrv]

go all autometer, as for wideband spend the money and get a good on

I really like having my Autometer gear...was a great investment.

It will become your intimate friend.

+1 ... you would be shocked to know what is really happening if you didn't have one that is solid and the correct installation location of the bung.

@Garm - Are you referring to "tapping into the block" for the oil return?

Don't get confused...it isn't actually the block. It is the upper oil pan sub assembly. :thumbsup:

Other than that I would go with something other than the F/IC. I know that there are plenty of folks that would argue with me, but after having 2 of them in less than 2 years, having shotty telephone support (lack of knowledge by staff), and personally running into others that do autocross, 1/4 mile, speed runs, etc I won't be installing another one. If you can really swing it take the additional funds and go with an "upgraded" solution over the F/IC.

[Scubaru Steve]

[QUOTE=yariSB86;693373]@Scubaru - How would the boost gauge not be accurate unless at sea level?

as you gain in elevation it thinks your in vacuum, im at 4000, ft.. i need 5psi to show i hit boost. i have replaced
the gauge and even called glow shift. they said sorry, there is no way to calibrate it.

the colors, peak, and hold are cool. but in my opinion they are only for show.

i have autometers, aem, innovate, glowshift and Defi.
once you have a quality set of instruments you wont go back.

http://www.egauges.com/
these are expensive but amazing! dont need a controler Defi (http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Blue_Racer)
Prosport (http://prosportgauges.com/) is also a decent entry level gauge. they have come a long way.

[cali yaris]

Don't get confused...it isn't actually the block. It is the upper oil pan sub assembly.

That part unbolts from the block? I didn't know that.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

This thread. I like this.

I can't speak for the quality of glowshift gauges, but like everyone else has said, splurge on a good wideband. That's by far the most important, especially if you're self-tuning. I'd also recommend avoiding mechanical oil pressure gauges. I've had oil end up places it shouldn't be. :tongue:

Another thing - if you don't want to waste money on another bov, don't worry about it. I was using the Zage bov for the last two months and finally got it working consistently. Turns out there was too much preload (and you have to loosen it to a practically uncomfortable point of preload).

How will you be tuning? And who will be doing it?

[fnkngrv]

That part unbolts from the block? I didn't know that.

Yes sir. I have a spare one sitting in my garage right now that will replace the one that is currently on my installed motor.

[fnkngrv]

I'd also recommend avoiding mechanical oil pressure gauges. I've had oil end up places it shouldn't be. :tongue:

How would a digital OPG be of more benefit? I have the mechanical Autometer that goes from 0-100psi. I did have to replace the sending unit, but that was because of what happened when my first motor blew up. Other than that it has worked flawlessly. :iono:

[cali yaris]

^ mechanical means oil actually goes to the gauge in a line. No sending unit.

It has nothing to do with digital vs. analog display on the gauge.

[BEEF]

I had a friend that had a mechanical oil gauge on his steering column. he always kept a rag under it... it always leaked. It was nasty but free.

[kou]

@Scubaru - How would the boost gauge not be accurate unless at sea level?

@Kou - how would I upgrade the oil return line?

This is what I am going to use for the oil return 10AN XRP hose end fittings and some push lock hose.

[fnkngrv]

^ mechanical means oil actually goes to the gauge in a line. No sending unit.

It has nothing to do with digital vs. analog display on the gauge.


aaahhh....gotcha...thanks for the clarification :)

[fnkngrv]

That part unbolts from the block? I didn't know that.

Here is a photo and yes I flipped it upside down to make it easier orientation-wise...haha :biggrin:

http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m563/fnkngrv/1st%20Engine%20Removal/2013-04-08160012_zps9cb502cd.jpg

[yariSB86]

This thread. I like this.

I can't speak for the quality of glowshift gauges, but like everyone else has said, splurge on a good wideband. That's by far the most important, especially if you're self-tuning. I'd also recommend avoiding mechanical oil pressure gauges. I've had oil end up places it shouldn't be. :tongue:

Another thing - if you don't want to waste money on another bov, don't worry about it. I was using the Zage bov for the last two months and finally got it working consistently. Turns out there was too much preload (and you have to loosen it to a practically uncomfortable point of preload).

How will you be tuning? And who will be doing it?

I've heard bad things about the zage bov, was yours set low out of the box?

I was planning on tuning the F/IC myself and getting the actual car tuned professionally. Where I have yet to find >_<

[fnkngrv]

I've heard bad things about the zage bov, was yours set low out of the box?

I was planning on tuning the F/IC myself and getting the actual car tuned professionally. Where I have yet to find >_<

How do you mean the F/IC yourself the actual car tuned yourself? If you are using an F/IC then that is what you are tuning (retarding timing, fuel maps, etc) :iono:

What else is there to tune?

[yariSB86]

Isn't the F/IC limited in what it can tune? Wouldn't I need to get the ECU remapped?
I was under the impression this would have to be done to get most out of the engine.

[fnkngrv]

The Yaris ECU is locked and cannot be remapped. Your only option is to go full standalone. There are varying opinions on how effective using a piggyback is depending really on your goals.

[yariSB86]

I did not know that. Thanks.

How difficult is tuning with the F/IC if I were to do it myself?

[Scubaru Steve]

I did not know that. Thanks.

How difficult is tuning with the F/IC if I were to do it myself?

if you have an idea its not to bad, take your time, have a good scan tool.

[yariSB86]

I'm using the scan gauge II. I should be alright, hopefully. Lol.

[fnkngrv]

I'm using the scan gauge II. I should be alright, hopefully. Lol.


have you ever owned or had any experience with turbo applications?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

How difficult is tuning with the F/IC if I were to do it myself?

Very simple.

If you're just trying to make a boosted daily driver (I assume you are, otherwise you'd have went custom), you really won't need to tune anything else beyond afrs. If you're having predetonation problems, you'll want to do some work on ignition timing though. I run 93 octane and never have had predetonation.

Also, if you're tuning in open loop - you're pretty much required to know how to adjust the afrs. Big changes in weather will throw off your entire map. Example: It was in the 40's last week, and now it's in the 70's. I had to richen my entire map to compensate.

[BEEF]

I'm using the scan gauge II. I should be alright, hopefully. Lol.

The scangauge 2 is an awsome tool but I think you need something that is going to show you more stuff. I think the scangauge shows A/F in what the ECU is trying to achieve, not what it actually has. I think at the least you are going to need a good AFR meter...

(as a disclaimer, I am not boosted)

[fnkngrv]

Also realize that every motor is different so even though someone might be able to give you a base set of maps to go from DO NOT just drop them in and call it a day. Even though you want to do it on your own is there a shop that you can become acquainted with that could assist you? Teach you the ropes?

[yariSB86]

Thanks for all the input guys.

Is $240 a good price for a set of 1zz injectors?

[kou]

NO i found a set on ebay used fo $70

[fnkngrv]

Thanks for all the input guys.

Is $240 a good price for a set of 1zz injectors?


Are they brand new or used?

[yariSB86]

$240 was for brand new oem replacements. I found a better set for 150

[cali yaris]

^ well done!

[yariSB86]

Thanks Garm! ;)

[mazilla]

Following along, pretty much in the same boat as the OP (boost)experience wise with a pile of parts ready to go.

[ilikerice]

Damn. I wanna be in the boosted club. One day I will have my build thread.

Good luck on yours. I will be following it also

[yariSB86]

Thanks guys!

[yariSB86]

My old tach was that model gauge. I went with the blue digital LEDs for boost, oil pressure, and the digital wideband.

[yariSB86]

All the gauges and a-pillar pod came in today. I'm going to take a look into getting everything mounted and running wires over the weekend. Also going to install my new headlights. So should be a busy weekend!

The turbo kit and f/ic should be here next week.

[why?]

Damn. I wanna be in the boosted club. One day I will have my build thread.

Good luck on yours. I will be following it also

mine will be really easy. Found a mechanic to install it.

done.

i'd kill myself if i tried it myself. or maybe just rip both hands off with something.

[yariSB86]

Head lights are going in! Pics to follow. Going to start the gauges and a-pillar pod later tonight. Gotta take a boat ride real quick. Bbl!

[mazilla]

Head lights are going in! Pics to follow. Going to start the gauges and a-pillar pod later tonight. Gotta take a boat ride real quick. Bbl!



Isn't it always like that? Every time I want to work on a project, BOOM I gotta take a boat ride. Important meeting? Not until I take this boat ride son....boat ride this, boat ride that...Neptune's beard!!

[yariSB86]

Lol. I'm in the USCG. I was power trialing one of our boats after it had its turbo replaced.

[yariSB86]

Head lights are installed and work great.

Had a little snag getting my a-pillar to fit right. It mounts onto the the factory a-pillar so I had to do some drimel work to make it fit the way I like it.

I started getting the gauges ready to mount. Boy there is a lot to them lol. I'm basically just running the wires that connect to the gauges behind the a-pillar. Ill connect everything at a later point.

Not to fret, pics will be posted tomorrow. :)

[fnkngrv]

Head lights are installed and work great.

Had a little snag getting my a-pillar to fit right. It mounts onto the the factory a-pillar so I had to do some drimel work to make it fit the way I like it.

I started getting the gauges ready to mount. Boy there is a lot to them lol. I'm basically just running the wires that connect to the gauges behind the a-pillar. Ill connect everything at a later point.

Not to fret, pics will be posted tomorrow. :)


Yeah...the amount of wiring involved is actually somewhat ridiculous. I left myself with two additional pos/neg sets with my install just in case for down the road to save the headache of routing again.

[mazilla]

I have three terminals in the glovebox(and the led lighting I added to the gloveboxes) in mine, one 12V, dash lights(via the box, not the dimmer switch) an ground...each new gauge gets most of it's wiring done right there, makes life a lot easier.




http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb230/mr-mazilla/6CF1DF8E-AFF0-44B2-ADF6-523C05EB8B3A-9705-00000EA413981563_zps5a826b25.jpg

[yariSB86]

Gauge pod is filled and mounted.

Boost is wired in.
Oil is powered, not fully connected. I didn't feel like getting all oily this late. Ill do it at a later point.
Afr harness is run. Still need to get the rest of that setup.
New tach is installed. I'm not liking how bright it is at night, so I'm going to wire in an adjustable resistor.

Pics will be up tomorrow.

On a side note. My rear sway bar and scan gauge II arrived yesterday!

[mazilla]

nice, moving right along...

[yariSB86]

As promised.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo22_zps308669f7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo21_zpsb622f890.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo19_zpsa8d08aba.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo20_zps989f76c1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo18_zpsfe2740c0.jpg

[fnkngrv]

^ So this is that GlowShift a-pillar podium that they sell for like 25 bucks? Looking pretty good. Seems like a tight fit.

I bought a few sets of them to actually chop up to make custom pillars.

[yariSB86]

A-pillar from Glowshift usually $70, on sale when I bought it for $19.99

[yariSB86]

Kit is here. Gonna start my pre install tonight.

[yariSB86]

Getting started!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo23_zps5800b73a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo24_zpsa648692d.jpg

[ilikerice]

I can only feel 10% of your excitement.. I can only imagine yours.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

:drool:

Also digging the gauge pod. That's a pretty decent fit.

Give us more pics! :biggrin:

[Yoda]

And so it begins.....

[yariSB86]

Thanks guys! burning and turning hard with this install.

have a couple questions regarding the boomslang pnp harness.

first question is where does this inline fuse go(it is a 10amp fuse)? does it replace the 7.5 fuse labeled ECU-B?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo25_zpsd48bfa95.jpg

next question is, these two wires look kinda important and I just want to make sure if I need them or not. one is white with a blue strip, the other is brown with black stripe.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo26_zps4b8c4998.jpg

[fnkngrv]

iirc I used a spare slot for my BSlang...I can try and see if I can get you better info...I currently have mine disco'ed. Yes, I am running without management, but have dropped my MV-S spring to the 3.5psi one until I upgrade my management. All I can say as well is be really careful with the lock arms as mine broke after only a year and removing/installing the harness a half dozen times.

[fnkngrv]

^ Nope...can't recall where I plugged it in. Perhaps Focus or CTScott can chime in if they can recollect. Sorry.

[yariSB86]

Alright next question.

For the oil return, if I am not using the zage oil pan, what is the best way for doing this return line? (drilling a hole in my engine is almost out of the question)

[cali yaris]

If you aren't using the Zage pan, drilling a hole and installing some fittings is the ONLY other option. Very nice pictures on our forums (and probably on here too).

[yariSB86]

Damnit Garm :( I was afraid of that.

pm sent to you btw.

[yariSB86]

so back to this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo25_zpsd48bfa95.jpg

its a wired in 10amp fuse pre wired on the AEM F/IC harness. where does it go?

[yariSB86]

Turbo kit is installed.
Still need to:
Cut some plastic around intercooler piping
Tap the block for oil return...
Add oil
(Man my brain is fried, been working on this from 10am through 11pm.) can't think right now...going to bed.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

so back to this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo25_zpsd48bfa95.jpg

its a wired in 10amp fuse pre wired on the AEM F/IC harness. where does it go?

My FIC harness didn't have that prewired. However, AEM likely revised their harness in the last few years to include it because people were probably hooking up their FICs unfused. Thus, if wired incorrectly - the unit gets fried, and AEM is left having to replace it.

As for where it goes, you have quite a few options at the fuse box in the engine bay. Ideally, you'll want to hook it up in place of another 10 amp fuse that only receives power on ACC or IGN. I'd check ECTS and EFI2 to see if they have voltage on key off, I can't remember.

Even if you have a constant 12v, the FIC has very little parasitic drain (pretty sure I actually have mine hooked up to a constant 12v).

Also, drilling the block - not as daunting as it sounds. Use the fittings I have in my guide, seal it up with some permatex, and you'll be fine.

Keep it up! It's worth it in the end :smile:

[yariSB86]

Thanks focus. The fuse went to efi.
Gotta go shopping today, don't have the right drill for this.

[thefalls]

The TRD option for the oil return is a banjo bolt into the oil drain plug.
Let me run get a pic.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x153/yogeshrp/Image2924_zps43e9d053.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/yogeshrp/media/Image2924_zps43e9d053.jpg.html)

[yariSB86]

so I don't have to tap the block?

[fnkngrv]

Here is a photo and yes I flipped it upside down to make it easier orientation-wise...haha :biggrin:

http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m563/fnkngrv/1st%20Engine%20Removal/2013-04-08160012_zps9cb502cd.jpg

I thought we have been over this already? You are not tapping the block. It is the Upper Oil Pan Sub-assembly. :iono:

You will want to tap the upper pan to prevent possible smoking in the future.

[yariSB86]

Yes, I understand where the tap goes. Just seems like getting couple different answers about this.
I bought a small angle drill, tap set, some jbweld, silicone sealant, loctite, Teflon paste, and the fittings I am going I use. (Not sure what sealant is better)
Already have the hose(came with the zage kit) and clamps.

Now when I drill this hole, I'm going 1/2", what is the best way of making sure there are no metal shavings in my oil resevoir? Pour my used oil in and let it drain (do that a couple times)?

[cali yaris]

I don't give a hoot what people call it. Pan, or block, makes no difference -- you will drill a hole and install a fitting. You can reach it easily from underneath with the pan off.

what is the best way of making sure there are no metal shavings in my oil resevoir?

You'll have the pan off, so I don't understand this question, sorry.

[cali yaris]

^ You just have to be careful not to have a low spot or a kink in your return line. You are correct, the Zage pan is being used by some customers. I'd say it's about 50/50 from the kits we've sold.

[yariSB86]

Sorry Garm, I totally spaced about taking off the pan...hah

[yariSB86]

Ok, think I finally got all the right parts for this oil return install. Going to start with removing the oil pan :) (thanks Garm). Then prep the drill, make sure I have room. Then drill the hole. Wish me luck.

[cali yaris]

good luck. It's aluminum, pretty soft, just be patient and you'll be fine!

[yariSB86]

Hey guys. Sorry for no updates as I've been sick, and still am. Damn sinus infection.
Anyways, I've managed to get the oil return line finished. Waiting on the oil pan seal to cure. Double checked all my piping/couplers. Pretty close to first start up, won't be until Monday or Tuesday. I'm working all weekend. It's coming along. Slow and steady.

[yariSB86]

I am in need of a base tune I can work off of. The car doesn't idle long enough for me to do anything. Does anyone have anything I can work with?

[yariSB86]

So an update for how things have been.

Everything is installed and working as well as it can be for first start up.
No leaking oil, no exhaust leaks.
I need to pick up some heat shroud still. There is a really good place up the street that specializes in this so that's good.

I am having problems though. As I expected.

Only really big problem at the moment is that I need a good base tune to work with. The car doesn't idle long enough (maybe 20 seconds) for me to manipulate anything.

So I am going to ask anyone if they have a good base tune I can work with to just get things going.

Thanks

[kou]

Are you using the aem fic? it should start and idle fine,did you install fic before turbo install or all at the same time?

[cali yaris]

SB86, I'm emailing you a couple of base maps now.

[kou]

SB86, I'm emailing you a couple of base maps now.

Send them to me also please to see if what I have made so far is going to work.

[yariSB86]

@kou I am using the AEM FIC. And I did install everything at same time.

@Garm Thank you :)

[kou]

Did you calibrate the fic? i am running all zeroed in all the maps and 810us for injector response time I am running NA to collect factory data for maf clamp and afr ratio voltages. Getting my downpipe made on sunday so should have some tuning info then.

[yariSB86]

Garm, that richened tune runs good. I like the 11-10 range for 8psi. Car still doesn't idle. dies almost as quick as I can shift. Like ive I push the clutch in, the car will idle to stall. I don't get it...any suggestions?

also, when i uploaded that tune, my tachometer stopped working...

[yariSB86]

I have not tried the bypass harness. yet.

[kou]

Maybe BOV stuck open a little?

[cali yaris]

I ran 8 psi with no tuning for 8 months. Didn't race or hit it hard, but the car ran "ok".

[yariSB86]

@tolmach - I did tap the upper oil pan assembly

@kou - I'll check, but i doubt it.

@Garm - With your "leaned" tune the car runs 12.5-10.0 at idle...Is that the way you have it intended?

[yariSB86]

Just started it up after it cooling down for a bit. with Garms "lean" tune it idles at ~14.5. Revd up to ~1500 it goes anywhere between ~13.5 - 11. When i lift off throttle it goes 10.0 - 20.0 then evens back to ~14.5-13.5

I can't test drive that yet, watching kids while the wife runs errands. But when i do, ill be sure and post the numbers.

Also Garm, are either of these tunes you emailed tuned with the 1zz injectors installed?

[yariSB86]

@Tolmach, It was really soft, maybe 2-3mm. I used a 1/4" - 3/4" unibit. Drilled for 3/4". I attached a -8 AN bulkhead fitting. And i drilled above the oil line.

[yariSB86]

So far with test driving it, I've only taking it up and down my street and side streets, no highway speeds. I have hit full boost (8psi) tho.

I'll do a quick run down of the few CELs I've gotten so far. First start up to now:
CELs 1-4 were spark plug related (b/c i changed mine out)
The next couple were AFR/O2 sensor related
And the most recent was a "too lean" code

The only really serious one was the too lean one, that was before i received the tunes from Garm. This code went away on its own after uploading the tune file i have on it now. (the lean tune)

[yariSB86]

@kou The screw cap thing on the end of the BOV was loose. I hand tightened it and started up the car to a good idle. So maybe that was it combined with the tune file i have on the fic right now.

[yariSB86]

@Tolmach I removed my oil pan and drilled from inside out. With an angled drill and that unibit i was able to but not fully get level, i was close enough. The bulkhead fitting along with the gasket type washers and the bulkhead nut, everything is pretty secure. Only oil residue i can see is coming from my oil drain plug, which ive tightened since finding it.

[yariSB86]

Not a problem M8

[kou]

Glad its working out. Now we need pictures.

[yariSB86]

Ask and you shall receive :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo30_zps58b24ad2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo31_zpsa4ed9c34.jpg

[yariSB86]

I do plan on heat wrapping, there is a DEI just up the street.

The stock O2 sensor wire isnt stressed at all, infact i have it hanging with a zip tie to keep it off the exhaust manifold.

That steel braided hose is the oil in line. It is coming from my oil filter sandwich adapter.

[yariSB86]

would this work in a 2.25" custom pipe?
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/the-812/100%2Ccpsi%2C-Cell%2C-Hi-dsh-Flow%2C-High%2C/Detail

[yariSB86]

Whats this knob on the end of the BOV for? What is its function? I can screw it/unscrew it.

Edit: so that's the actuator control housing knob?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo32_zps8925c71d.jpg

[fnkngrv]

Ask and you shall receive :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/photo31_zpsa4ed9c34.jpg

Wow...I really forgot how much it looks wide open front top to down on the backside when you are running an internal WG. I would get the heat wrap ASAP. Makes a big difference both performance and safety wise.

[yariSB86]

Yeahs, thanks man. I'm picking some up Friday.

Think I got car to run pretty good. Still having issues with it stalling after lifting off throttle after a load. It's like when I lift off the rpms should go to 950-1100 like they do at idle but they keep falling until stall. My buddy was thinking adjusting the throttle position or changing the VE table. Any suggestions?

[kou]

^^ my suggestion is you check that blow off valve and make sure its closing.

[yariSB86]

@kou - am i correct in thinking that if the BOV needs to be adjusted, it is done by removing that screw cap on the end?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Yes. I actually had to loosen mine to get it working better, but try tightening it and see if that solves any of your problems.

[yariSB86]

Thanks guys, ill give it a shot.

[yariSB86]

Update: As mentioned earlier I checked my BOV, I checked the spring and messed with it a bit, I didn't really change anything. I hooked it up to a cummins radiator cap pressure tester. it actually worked well. I plan on upgraded the BOV later down the line anyway.

I decided to start a fresh tune to see if I can get it to idle like stock. think I got pretty close. I don't know why my rpms are still kinda surging, not nearly as much as before but they do like 250ish. you'll see in the videos im about to post. with this tune I test drove it down the street (not included in the video) and I had a bunch of misfires. My buddy sitting next to me with my computer hooked up the the fic was able to retard the timing live and we fixed all misfires. over all im pretty happy that I got it running well. I'm still going to get it professionally tuned here next week. it will be interesting to see what happens and what the dyno reads :)

so with out further a due.

Before I leaned it out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EETj1jC8MIA

After I leaned it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDIYLWHa3pk

Little bit o boost:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70fq_fzEbZc

[yariSB86]

so the local temp got warmer than when I originally tuned. so im misfiring and stalling again. time to adjust the maf map and retard some timing I think.

[yariSB86]

Update time:

I have an 08 ecu en route to replace my old 07.

I had a custom exhaust made. I'll show video of my old setup, then of the new.

Old setup (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtHBECujXbY)

New setup (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzf1ycJrK6k)

[yariSB86]

A few pics of the install.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/image_zps74de8393.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/riseagainst86/image_zps057e6972.jpg