Complete flush for ATF change?

[Lance16]

Hey guys, I recently heard that there is no need to do a transmission fluid flush for newer automatics. Just a simple drain and maybe replace the filter and gasket. Is this true? And if so why is that?

[CTScott]

It's not a matter of it being unnecessary, but rather a case where doing a flush can be expensive. Also, a flush still does not exchange every bit of the fluid, so it is really not all that much more effective than a drain and fill.

[bronsin]

If you DO decide to change the filter and oil I think the transmission takes special synthetic Toyota fluid.

Am I wrong? :iono:

[CTScott]

If you DO decide to change the filter and oil I think the transmission takes special synthetic Toyota fluid.

Am I wrong? :iono:

Toyota ATF WS is the only fluid that Toyota specs for the U340 tranny.

[UberSilver]

The first month I owned my 4 year old yaris, I did a 3 quart change every weekend 4 times, as to get as much as the old fluid out(within reason).

Because I drive the Yaris on the hard side, I'll be changing the trans fluid once per year.

[why?]

Once a year is a bit extreme unless you drive 30,000 miles or more.

Toyota says the fluid will last the life of the car, and it might.

But you won't want to drive that car.

[UberSilver]

Once a year is a bit extreme unless you drive 30,000 miles or more.

Toyota says the fluid will last the life of the car, and it might.

But you won't want to drive that car.

I dont mind spending $20. on 3 quarts once per year. It's the least I can do for as much as my Yaris puts up with.:smile:

[YarisSedan]

I read a article once from Toyota that the Ws fluid is not compatible with old and new meaning you need to replace all not just mix new fluid with old but I can't see the reason why not. I work at a transmission shop and the cars that come in for transmission failure are the one that have never had a service the typical range is about 140k miles good news is I rarely see Toyotas Hondas on the other hand we see then on a weekly bases mainly cause to change the transmission filter you have to remove the transmission from the car and disassemble it one of the other reasons I'm glad I picked the yaris over the Honda fit

[clarenceie]

I went with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Went and changed out the whole fluid. It's been 30k and shifting fine. But I do give props to Toyota for giving a transmission pan and a very accessible filter.

Honda has changed their ways with a replaceable filter now.

[YarisSedan]

I think they are still sealed transmissions in the newer models there's no transmission pan but some use a external In line filter which can be another problem in itself. It's like that was there bandaid fix but if the filter isn't changed on time and gets clogged it restricts the line and low pressure equals heat which will damage the transmission

[bronsin]

Once a year is a bit extreme unless you drive 30,000 miles or more.

Toyota says the fluid will last the life of the car, and it might.

But you won't want to drive that car.

Mine is going to last the life of the car and I will tell you how long that is when it is. :smile:

[nookandcrannycar]

Mine is going to last the life of the car and I will tell you how long that is when it is. :smile:

With the number of miles you drive, your Yaris will probably last you the rest of your life :biggrin:.

[clarenceie]

I think they are still sealed transmissions in the newer models there's no transmission pan but some use a external In line filter which can be another problem in itself. It's like that was there bandaid fix but if the filter isn't changed on time and gets clogged it restricts the line and low pressure equals heat which will damage the transmission

Yea still sealed unfortunately... On my 02 RSX, they have an inline and internal filter. Also a magnetic drain plug (which I wished the Yaris has for those intermediate ATF changes) Sadly, there's no maintenance interval on the external.

Looking at both Toyota and Honda, they say it's for the life of the car, but obviously, we know better. At least Toyota gives better serviceability factor. Nonetheless, Honda has good reliability if maintained properly, any cars in general.

[why?]

Mine is going to last the life of the car and I will tell you how long that is when it is. :smile:

Let us know when your mileage drops below 30 mpg for good.

[lamadoo]

Let us know when your mileage drops below 30 mpg for good.

At what km did you change yours or would recommend?

[Astroman]

Hm the manual states to replace it every 100,000 miles. I had mine changed at 115,000 using toyotas fluid, and a autozone filter. A shop did it, and a month later it over-revs 3rd and slams hard into 4th when I accelerate hard, or am travelling uphill. Still need to take it back to the shop... :frown:

Shifted just fine before the change.

[YarisSedan]

Hm the manual states to replace it every 100,000 miles. I had mine changed at 115,000 using toyotas fluid, and a autozone filter. A shop did it, and a month later it over-revs 3rd and slams hard into 4th when I accelerate hard, or am travelling uphill. Still need to take it back to the shop... :frown:

Shifted just fine before the change.

Sounds like the transmission is slipping. Most likely worn 3rd gear clutch pack. Its very simular to a worn clutch on a manual when it starts to slip. Which is why it only happens at high rpm range or under heavy load like uphill. When the emc tels the transmission to shift and theres no response it keeps dialing up the pressure on the shift solenoid till it gets a resonpose till finally it slams into gear. Its going to keep getting worse as more an more material wears till either i loses the gear or it cracks the drum. If there is no check engine light its not a shift solenoid/electrical problem but a mechanical problem. Sometimes flushing the fluid at high miles can wash the varnish out of the transmission and transmission problem might start to occur unfortunately.


Check the transmission fluid since it was just serviced if it has a varnished color and burnt odor to it

Id definitely take it to a transmission specialist shop locally right away. if you have a AAMCO close by to you they have a free transmission check. You can bring it in and they will check the vehicle out and can give you estimate. The longer you wait the more expensive the repair can get.

[bronsin]

Let us know when your mileage drops below 30 mpg for good.

Explain please. :iono:

[why?]

At what km did you change yours or would recommend?

I had mine changed at about 55k miles, or about 88514km. Really though, keep it until it is obvious it is hurting gas mileage, my gas mileage dropped 5 mpg, for no reason. Changed the transmission fluid, it went back to normal.
Explain please. :iono:

Dirty transmission fluid will negatively effect gas mileage. Even doing the drain and fill by hand a little bit every year or so is better than leaving dirty transmission fluid in there.

[bronsin]

Dirty transmission fluid will negatively effect gas mileage. Even doing the drain and fill by hand a little bit every year or so is better than leaving dirty transmission fluid in there.

Im going with driving 45 mph or less all the time and treating the gas pedal like its an egg will keep the transmission oil clean and sweet smelling. :smile:

[bronsin]

With the number of miles you drive, your Yaris will probably last you the rest of your life :biggrin:.

1034 miles October to March! :headbang:

[Lance16]

Thanks for the responses. I'm wondering is there anything special about an automatic versus a manual that makes the fluid change less necessary?

[bronsin]

Theres like two quarts of oil in a Yaris manual transmission and three times that in the automatic.

[Everglade]

Going to drain and fill ATF on my 2007 Yaris with 106k kms on it.
Will fill with Mobil synthetic ATF (http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English-LCW/automatic-transmission-fluid_mobil-1-synthetic-atf.aspx).

Update:
Desided not to ))
Ordered 6 jugs of Eneos... much better than Mobil.
Lower Viscosity = 5.7

[Pern]

Go purchase Toyota WS fluid plus one more court than your car will hold.
1. Drain the pan.
2. Refill the pan with exactly the same amount you drained.
3. Locate and remove the fluid return line from cooler to transmission.
3. Remove it and drain into graduated container.
4. Start the car, drain out the balance of the fluid as you add the new fluid.
5. Reconnect the return line, top off the fluid to proper level.
(As an added benifit you can also change the filter if the fluid is really dirty and burnt).
This will get most of the fluid out of the car cost effectively.

[CoryM]

I'm wondering is there anything special about an automatic versus a manual that makes the fluid change less necessary?

Automatics have "wet-clutches" meaning that the clutches are inside the case, and in the fluid. As the clutches wear, the grit ends up suspended in the oil, and in the filter if bad enough. They also create heat, which breaks down oil. Modern automatics are much better than older ones, but still do both of these things.

[dkwilfert]

Did a drain/fill on my wife's 08 Yaris a few weeks ago at about 52,000 easy miles, and the fluid came out brown; no burnt oder, just discolored. Because of this, I decided to do another drain/fill and to change the filter at the same time. On that drain, the fluid was red, but not clear, so the second change will help some more. I'm used to Hondas where I have always changed (drain/fill) the ATF at 25K-30K intervals, and it always comes out clear red. Even though Toyota says the fluid is supposed to last the life of the car, I would recommend the same 25K-30K drain/fill maintenance for the Yaris too.

[texascolt45]

my 2015 has a drain plug and removable pan.wonder if the converter has a drain like some do?

[Rigaud]

my 2015 has a drain plug and removable pan.wonder if the converter has a drain like some do?

no

[Alain93]

If you drain and refill with the same amount, do that 3 or 4 times (once a week), after 4 times you will have change about 95% of the oil.