1zz Throttle body review/tips

[Black_griffin6]

Hey everyone!

A few days ago I installed the 1zz throttle body onto my 2009 yaris liftback MT.

I wanted to write up a little review and give some tips as to how it works and how to do it right.
First off I ordered the one with the part number 030 at the end, after I had both throttle bodies off the car, I compared the 2 part numbers on them and they both end in the 030. I think this is why the one with the 030 part number is more compatible with the yaris.

Tips on install: I had to get a deep socket 10 mm socket, it helped a lot with taking the 10mm bolts off the throttle body. There are 2 sets of 10mm bolts on the top, the second set is harder to get to and is where you need the deep socket.

You also need some gasket maker. I used Permatex Ultra copper (http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail) to seal the space behind the throttle body to the stock intake manifold.
You don't NEED the high temp stuff like what I used, but it's what I had left over from when I installed my header so I just used it.
It's there to make sure your fitment is air tight.

Make sure you disconnect your battery BEFORE you start your work.
The whole job may take 1-2 hours, it took me about 2 with basic hand tools.
But during that time your ECU will reset. After you're done and have everything hooked back up, then reconnect the battery and just let the car idle, wait 10 minutes at the least, I know 10 minutes seems like a long time but it's worth it.

All those things helped me I believe. I haven't had any problem since the install.
The only cons so far are:
Very high idle when it starts cold. Not sure how high as I don't have a tach, but you can just get in and drive it and it will go away in about 30 seconds depending on how warm it is outside.

And the throttle sometimes stays open when I don't have the car in gear and I tap the gas, but it's only for about a second, like it has a delay.
This is also very rare and don't happen often.


The review:
Overall I think it did add a few ponies. I can hear my Weapon R intake a LOT more now and it seems to get up and go a lot better.
My other engine mods are:
DC sports header,
complete lightweight pulley kit,
Weapon R secret weapon intake with Ram air tube,
and custom mandrell bent 2.5" exhaust.
Definitely worth the money and time.
I did NOT do the chip swap though, and it has been fine.

I recommend it. :thumbsup:

[cali yaris]

I'm glad this worked out well -- I know you were a little concerned, but you were patient, did it right and got a good result.

[why?]

So it did fit on the intake? That is cool. Good to see it can be done with minimal fuss.

[tooter]

The 55mm butterfly clears the smaller 46mm bore because it's round and high enough so that the edges don't touch. Did you need to remove the stock o ring gasket? The 1ZZ will definitely give you a quicker throttle.:smile:

[Astroman]

I have the 1zz tb as well on my 2007. High idle at startup when cold is common, verified with the scan gauge. Congrats on the successful install. My mechanic did mine in under 30 minutes. A worthwhile mod!

[mazilla]

Having spent the amount of time(over a year) running the 1zz I think the solid recommendation is a little strong. Proceed with caution is more accurate IMO...


I'm going to try it out when I go boosted or feel particularly bored, having just gone back from the 1zz I can say I don't feel like I'm missing anything except a little top end.

[tooter]

Having spent the amount of time(over a year) running the 1zz I think the solid recommendation is a little strong. Proceed with caution is more accurate IMO...

I'm sure that's true with a stock manifold because it's only designed to handle the flow of a 46mm throttle body. But it's a whole different story when the 1ZZ is mated up to a manifold that's large enough to handle its flow capabilities.

[mazilla]

I'm sure that's true with a stock manifold because it's only designed to handle the flow of a 46mm throttle body. But it's a whole different story when the 1ZZ is mated up to a manifold that's large enough to handle its flow capabilities.


I've had it on both, although admittedly I didn't run it more than 24 hrs in the new manifold...

[tooter]

I've had it on both, although admittedly I didn't run it more than 24 hrs in the new manifold...

Why did you go back to the 1nz? I'd never want to give up the improved throttle response.

[thefalls]

Hi,can you share the full part number.
Thanks.

Edit* Found it.
22030-0D030

[Black_griffin6]

I'm glad this worked out well -- I know you were a little concerned, but you were patient, did it right and got a good result.
I was very concerned. All the mods i've done so far have never given me any bad results. I do weeks, sometimes months of research about a mod before I do it, but in the end you don't really know what will happen until you do it. :biggrin:


So it did fit on the intake? That is cool. Good to see it can be done with minimal fuss.
Yeah it fits the intake.
The intake I have came with a rubber adapter that shrinks down the size of the rubber connector, I simply removed it and used the same rubber connecter it came with.

The 55mm butterfly clears the smaller 46mm bore because it's round and high enough so that the edges don't touch. Did you need to remove the stock o ring gasket? The 1ZZ will definitely give you a quicker throttle.:smile:
Not sure where the o-ring gasket it. It is behind the throttle body where the TB connects to the manifold?
If so, I did not remove that.


Having spent the amount of time(over a year) running the 1zz I think the solid recommendation is a little strong. Proceed with caution is more accurate IMO...
I know it hasn't worked with everyone. But I think it's a worthwhile thing to at least try.

I'm not sure how it will work out boosted, I don't know of anyone that has tried it yet.

[HANZO_187]

I'm gonna give it a shot. Where'd you get the resources on how to install it properly? You have some mechanic skill or you just winged it?

[ilikerice]

It's super easy. I will say, the thing that the OP missed was the coolant lines. I had to swap them because of the location of the inlet and outlet of the 1zz throttle body compared to the 1nz. It worked out fine though.

If its your first time, I recommend taking pictures with your phone before and thru the process of it. Just so you will have a reference to look back on if you happen to forget what went where.

[tooter]

It's a pretty straightforward swap. The stud holes are exactly the same. While you will need longer liquid heating hoses to reach the fittings...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_6630_zpsba837ffe.jpg



I recommend gently chipping away the epoxy from around the tiny allen head screw that controls the butterfly idle stop. Then you can turn it town about a turn until you get a nice slow hot idle.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_6626_zps678af55a.jpg


The high cold start idle will remain the same at about 2,000 rpm because that's determined by the ECU. But it drops down to normal really fast especially if you reset the hot idle down low.

Remember that the opening in your manifold is still the same diameter so maximum flow is restricted. However, you will definitely have better throttle response, as the larger butterfly opens wider quicker. Make sure you use an allen wrench that fits very tightly. You do not want to strip the head of that tiny screw.

The properly sized silicone adaptor will allow the 1ZZ throttle body to accept just about any aftermarket intake. You can also see the location of the tiny idle adjustment screw at the center top of the photo.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_6637_zpsa7d61541.jpg


Greg

[HANZO_187]

I'm really wanting to take this on. Ok, so the hoses where can you get longer ones at? I also have a Cosmic Racing CAI and working on getting after-market headers (Megan, DC) wondering if it will still fit to everything proper but this is down the line.

I wanna squeeze as much info I can before going into this but it seems pretty straight forward. Gonna get a BLOX adapter just in case...better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. appreciate the 101 guys.

I got my first Auto X coming up in march and I'd like to squeeze what ever I can out before hand.

[tk-421]

I also did this mod and recommend it for sure. I had to modify the OEM hose slightly by removing a very thin layer of rubber with a dremel. No biggie and worked like a charm and did a coolant bypass with a copper joint.

I also have a high idle for around 60 sec or so. I've had it that way for many years and I've had zero problems, FWIW.

@HANZO_187: There's a couple of very good threads about this info. Just keep in mind that some 1zz tb's work without having to swap chips (located at the base), while others apparently require it. I did it in about 10 min (maybe less) by using a drill with a very narrow bit (so that it only destroys the rivets and nothing else). HTH

[ilikerice]

I also did this mod and recommend it for sure. I had to modify the OEM hose slightly by removing a very thin layer of rubber with a dremel. No biggie and worked like a charm and did a coolant bypass with a copper joint.

I also have a high idle for around 60 min or so. I've had it that way for many years and I've had zero problems, FWIW.

@HANZO_187: There's a couple of very good threads about this info. Just keep in mind that some 1zz tb's work without having to swap chips (located at the base), while others apparently require it. I did it in about 10 min (maybe less) by using a drill with a very narrow bit (so that it only destroys the rivets and nothing else). HTH

you mean 60 seconds right?

As far as the hose go, you can use the hoses that are on the car, just swap them around. Make sure you have a pan under the car to catch the coolant when you pull the hoses off. you can use a used spark plug to plug the hose when you disconnect them from the throttle body and try to be fast. If your not fast enough, its going to get messy.. lol, but its not a big deal at all. I just zip tied them together to keep them away from the shifter cables

Now, on the stock manifold, I measured the rubber "O" ring on the mani-throttle body. I did not have to make a gasket. The 1zz throttle body fit just right where it sealed up with the throttle body. It was close, but I did not have an issue with any leaks. I used the existing O ring on the manifold. :iono:

[HANZO_187]

Ok cool, I'm getting the ideal process for this now. My other question now is do we know if what main years the 1zz TB come off of? I know a Toyota Matrix has it but not sure if any other cars and years.

[1.5]

Han I still have mine sitting in my trunk waiting to install. We can do them together when you get one

[tk-421]

you mean 60 seconds right?
Yes, yes I do. :rolleyes:

[tooter]

I'm really wanting to take this on. Ok, so the hoses where can you get longer ones at? I also have a Cosmic Racing CAI and working on getting after-market headers (Megan, DC) wondering if it will still fit to everything proper but this is down the line.

I wanna squeeze as much info I can before going into this but it seems pretty straight forward. Gonna get a BLOX adapter just in case...better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. appreciate the 101 guys.



That BLOX coupling just came with the BLOX velocity stack air filter...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_6377_zpsd7f09db5.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_6380_zpsfd112cc8.jpg



...and isn't special. Any properly sized silicone coupling will do.

I got my first Auto X coming up in march and I'd like to squeeze what ever I can out before hand. Check to see if they allow running a larger throttle body without having to change the class you're running in. Or... maybe they won't notice.

Greg

[1.5]

Han your local autozone/discount/whatever will carry an assortment of those couplings

[cali yaris]

^ Just go by the part number. Car model years are not a predictable way.

[ilikerice]

I got my first Auto X coming up in march and I'd like to squeeze what ever I can out before hand.

If you are doing an SCCA event, larger throttle body will throw you in FSP "F Street Prepared" I don't know all the modifications you have done, but if you list them, we can help you class your car.

[1.5]

with lowering springs i think youll be in STF but like Derrick says the TB will put you into SMF (iirc)

[HANZO_187]

Heres what got listed in the car so far.

Sprint progressive lowering springs
Cosmic Racing CAI
NST 10% Crankpulley
Rear Seats removed

Thats what I got as of now, I also got Megan Headers that I might be buying from "BUZZ" and I don't know if
Wheels play a part in this but was going to buy KONIG Flatout wheels 15x8 at 12 lbs each. Just putting it out there in case it counts and @1.5 yeah bro count me in, give me a reason to come hang and check out your car. Lol

[yariseggvvti]

How's the sounds like when you run 2.5" exhaust? Did you delete resonator and second CAT? Do you lose any lower end and getting more high end. VVTI kicks harder?

Thanks!

[CrankyOldMan]

Throttle body:

STF: 14.10.C The air intake system up to, but not including, the engine inlet may be
modified or replaced. The engine inlet is the throttle body, carburetor,
compressor inlet, or intake manifold, whichever comes first.

FSP: 15.10.C. Induction allowances are as follows:
1. Carburetors, fuel injection, and intake manifolds are unrestricted...

SMF: 61.1.D. Drivetrain and related components (induction, ignition, fuel systems,
etc.) are unrestricted...


Crank pulley:

STF: 14.10.H. Any accessory pulleys and belts of the same type (e.g., V-belt, serpentine)
as standard may be used. This allowance applies to accessory
pulleys only (e.g., alternator, water pump, power steering
pump, and crankshaft drive pulleys). It does not allow replacement,
modification, or substitution of pulleys, cogs, gears, or belts which
are part of cam, layshaft, or ignition drive or timing systems, etc.
Any crankshaft damper or pulley may be used. SFI-rated dampers
are recommended.


Rear seats removed:

FSP: 15.2.F. Cars may have no fewer than the standard number of seats.

SMF: 16.3.K. Rear passenger seat(s), including restraints and associated hardware
may be removed.


Looks like you're running SMF this year. =)

[cali yaris]

^ I ran SMF. It's not possible to be competitive in the Yaris in that class.

[HANZO_187]

Ok so with me having my rear seats out a I'm running SMF then?

If get headers added to the list its gonna keep me there am ai right?
I'm not gonna get the TB for now since its gonna be putting me in a class I can't even compete against.

BUT I am gonna get it just in case...lol Just having it on hand is good.

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm only competitive against the one other regular SMF car in my region--a Cobalt SS with a pulley change. Neither of us built our cars around the SMF rules, that's just where we ended up. When a national competitive SMF car shows up, it's game over. That doesn't mean I don't have an incredible amount of fun in the mean time.

[cali yaris]

^ understood -- I had a blast too, but when 30 serious SMF cars show up, it's pretty humbling.

[HANZO_187]

I'm pretty happy about going into this...I like how this throttle body thread went into an Auto Cross thread. lol

Naw but I seriously respect you guys for the info and for what you guys do.
I'm really looking forward to this and I hope some where along the silver lining I get a drivers edge out of it. I always loved racing as a youngster and with being the second Yaris I think besides Buzz that will be doing Auto X I'm just hopeful to get some good times in and show people that a few of us Yaris drivers mean buisness.

March 9th man...I can't get my mind off of it.

[ilikerice]

They guys in our region are anal about modification. Gino who is running Garm's Yaris is actually running XP class. With the interior gutted out he is technically in a Prepared class.
Can't run in EP because of the turbo. lol

Also, body kits and fiberglass hood will throw you in SMF. Unless its from the Yaris S. I have those rubber quick disconnects and would swap out my front and rear bumper and take off my side skirts at each event to stay in STF. That was before the 1zz throttle body and catless exhaust.

So, keep the interior in, if you are just removing the rear seats. SMF is fun. I am running SMF also this year, mod list are:
Megan coilovers
Megan Headers
Nitto catless mid pipe*
Tenabe axle back
1zz throttle body
CAI
Body kit*
15x7 rota gt3
225/45 Hankook RS3

* is the mods that put me in SMF

I now take my rear seat out before an event also to help with weight. Damn things are heavy as shit too..

[Rednaz]

Will the 1zz throttles work on the 2NZ 1300 engines as well?

[HANZO_187]

@ilikerice I gotta check out what there rules are, I'm getting a lot of good mods for some LOW prices so modding is not so bad when I have spent less then 400$ for all the mods I have so far (Counting my HID's and Aftermarket alarm system) along with Megan headers coming into play before my first run.

I'm gonna be looking into wheels and stickier tires soon along with some bracing soon after but I am ALWAYS trying to get used parts and cheap prices on parts.

Kinda the reason why I call my Toyota the "V1" Standing for Vulture1. Hope you get the idea.

[tooter]

Will the 1zz throttles work on the 2NZ 1300 engines as well?

I don't think that 1ZZ would offer any other benefit except that your accelerator would more sensitive to input. Remember it is just a valve that lets air into the engine. When I dyno tested mine on a 1.5, while it did make some gains at the top end and some slight improvement on the way up, at low rpms there was no difference except that because it was larger it let more air in quicker. So the throttle is more responsive. That's the main improvement.

Can you post a pic of your intake? Also is your throttle body electronically actuated, or is it cable operated? We might be able to determine if it would work.

Greg

[cali yaris]

So the throttle is more responsive. That's the main improvement.

Just as easily replicated with a throttle controller then!

[ilikerice]

I gotta check out what there rules are

Yea man. Since you are modding just for fun and not for a specific class, just have fun with your car. Stick to SMF. Its fun when you are kicking the B swapped civics and turbo Integra's. If you got any questions on mods you are about to buy and curious about class, feel free to PM me. I am taking the chairman spot this year at our region so I gotta be on top of these kinda things

[Black_griffin6]

How's the sounds like when you run 2.5" exhaust? Did you delete resonator and second CAT? Do you lose any lower end and getting more high end. VVTI kicks harder?

Thanks!

It sounds pretty awesome man, I'll post a couple of videos when I get the chance.
Yes, resonator and secondary cat are gone.
Below 3 grand, you would think it was a much bigger engine, above that it kinda sounds like a 240sx, really mean sounding.
I think a turbo or supercharger would really help, this is a FI exhaust on a NA car. Right now it doesn't pull as hard as I think it's capable of, it's only making about 100 whp.

[yariseggvvti]

dose it sounds really deep or ricy? If you have time, post a video please. thank you!

[JimKellyfan]

Yeah, that is why I am focusing on the handling. Years ago, the old roundish jaguar XKE back in the early 60's got beat bad due to lack of power. The next year, they came out with better braking and beat em all in the turns. The handling and braking would have to be our edge. I put a bunch of bars on for stability, and it is rail like, even with the T rated tires, which I will swap them when worn to V rated Michelins (195/60/15). But, I am thinking of going to add even more bars from Ultra racing, the ones I don't have yet, 3 point fender brace, rear torsion bar, side lower and room bars. Good luck racing this year.

[ilikerice]

Tires, get some better tires.. You wanna ride on rails with a yaris, go wider, 195 are a bit skinny and the Michelins last longer but they just dont grip like the Falken 615k, Toyo R1R, Hankook RS3's..

[CrankyOldMan]

I thought the magic number for R1R's was 195/50R15, no? Aside from that, go as wide as your fenders allow.

[ilikerice]

If you wanna ride on rails, get thw Hoosier A6 in 275.

Everything you said is correct cranky

[HANZO_187]

I was looking at those wheels just now, not bad on the prices (IMO atleast)

I'm hoping to get some nice and sticky tires down the line but for now I need to get some new and lighter wheels and some decent tires to put em on. One pair for street use and the other for track buisness.

Btw guys thank you for helping us guys out with all the knowledge, glad to be part of this.

[salmanghiyas]

sorry for reviving this old thread :tongue:

and thousand sorries in advance ... as i will be prompting and asking anything which i cud not understand you all guys at YW :biggrin: im new to YW and just bought a 2008 yaris 1.5L manual tranny ... and now a days just spending my spare time on YW forums and google ... reading and understanding NA mods ... i am trying my level best to get as much as i can .. but still .. im a newbie :redface: ... so had to ask questions ..sorry if i sound stupid :cry:

my question is ... here the swap is in between electronic TB's ? the ones which are DBW ?

[japle]

Its for the electronic tbs.... for the cables, if not mistaken, it also a direct swap...

[mattymo]

All, tb swap is kicking my butt. I've tried everything...chip swap, dial in good idle while warm after battery cycle, but i still get P0505 idle control system code. It also jerks sometimes letting on and off the throttle. Does anyone think i should adjust other stop screw inside the tb? This looks like it sets how far back the valve can close. It looks like the ecu can actually fully shut the valve the way it's set now. Does the ecu actually do this? Any suggestions? Preeshiate it. Car runs great under this mod when it's cooperating, but flakes into this code.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk

[tooter]

All, tb swap is kicking my butt. I've tried everything...chip swap, dial in good idle while warm after battery cycle, but i still get P0505 idle control system code. It also jerks sometimes letting on and off the throttle. Does anyone think i should adjust other stop screw inside the tb? This looks like it sets how far back the valve can close. It looks like the ecu can actually fully shut the valve the way it's set now. Does the ecu actually do this? Any suggestions? Preeshiate it. Car runs great under this mod when it's cooperating, but flakes into this code.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk

The symptoms you're describing are exactly what I experienced before turning out the tiny factory epoxied external hex head screw to allow the butterfly to come to rest at a more closed position. That one adjustment solved everything.

Check that the butterfly isn't hanging up on anything under the throttle body. That could also prevent the butterfly from closing.

Check and recheck everything for any air leaks. They can play havoc with the idle. And make certain that all of the vacuum hoses to your intake manifold are going to the original factory locations.

What kind of intake and filter are you running? Check for any air leakage around the MAF, as well as the electrical connection at the plug, as it determines your A/F at idle.

Greg

[mattymo]

I've adjusted the epoxy screw to get good idle, but crazy georgia weather swings may be confusing the learn. I have an aem intake. My vacuum and af ratios look ok in torque. I do seem to get more trouble with atmospheric pressure changes too.

After you solved everything, did u scan the ecm? Sometimes this code wont actually trigger the check engine light. Thanks.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk

[tooter]

Yes... and the scanner showed no pending codes.


Greg

[mattymo]

Greg, what warm idle rpm did u settle to? Thanks again.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk

[instantninja]

I put a 1zz throttle body on my yaris this fall, after adjusting the idle and resetting the ecu its has worked great. it does idle higher than with the original tb and it doesn't like very cold weather. -30/-35 it throws a lean code and I had the throttle plate get stuck, but other than that it has been good and there was a noticeable increase above 3500rpm, although I don't know how much is the throttle body and how much is the tooter I put on at the same time.

[axiom]

Does anyone know of a way to get rid of the "lag" when letting off the gas? Mine stays at it's rpms for a second before dropping down after letting off the gas with or without the clutch in. It's quite annoying.

[mattymo]

If you're referring to the quick jerk while letting off the gas, try backing idle screw out more. I'm still struggling with this nyself. Getting it set right for the ecu to be happy is a tricky bitch. Swings in weather make it worse. Anyway, if you're having a laaaaaag of mure than half a second or so we might be talking about two different things. Try scanning ecu. If you get idle control system code, ecu is not happy yet. It can even be a pending code that won't trigger CEL.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk

[axiom]

For example, if I'm running at 4000 rmp, and I let off the gas, it'll stay there for a half second, then drop. My original tb would drop the second I let off the gas.

I'll have to look and see if the idle screw has ever been messed with. I may need to chip away at the epoxy. If I do, do I then need to replace it once I find a good setting?

As far as codes, I'll need to run over to an auto shop sometime to see.

PS-I'm tired of people thinking I want to race them at the first stop light by my house.......stupid high rpm before engine warm up.

[zen]

So I attempted to do the throttle body swap but realized I can't connect it to the stock intake due to the outlet of the throttle body being larger than the hose...is the best way for me to solve this to buy a 2005 Corolla / Matrix intake hose? I'm trying to keep it looking stock as much as possible due to my 2014 is still under warranty.

[KTS]

Turn the flex hose around and use a little bit of grease. It will be a tight fit.

[zen]

I'll have to try that again, was trying my hardest to get that method to work

[phaznet]

I've been wanting to do this mod for some time, I just want to get the right part.
I have a 2007 yaris sedan. I see the part number we want is the 22030-0D030, but all I can find locally is the 0D031! In that case, would I simply need to do a chip swap?

phaznet

[ezhacker1]

I haven't read through the entire thread, but a tip i have found I want to share with you all.

PORTMATCH THE TB!! I got my throttle body from a sedan friend, and he had meticulously port matched the intake manifold to the tb, I have experience no extended high rpm or pulsing at all. Just the normal 2700rpm at start which drops to normal operating rpm within like 20 seconds or so, and this is which the car not moving.

But like others, i do have the "rpm holding lag" not always maybe once in a while, but i havent had an issue like, trying to get into a gear and grinding..

[zen]

I successfully installed it except I'm getting the pulsing revs and makes it seem like I want to race everyone lol..I dont quite have a hex small enough to adjust the idle screw

[phaznet]

What was the part # on the throttle bodies you installed?

[zen]

0D030 off a 2005 Toyota Corolla

[phaznet]

Can I use a 0D031?

[MedMantle]

Hey guys, I found a (Part Number) 22030-0C010 throttle body, it looks similar to the one you guys use, only visual difference is the coolant pipes are angled differently.. The Bore diameter is also 55mm.. I can't find a 2nd hand 1ZZ TB in my country and the guy that wants to sell me this one is giving it to me at a good price. I plugged the connector into it and it opens when I depress the accelerator, it should work the same as the 1ZZ once fitted?

[MedMantle]

Okay, so I have installed my PN:22030-0C010 TB with great difficulty, had occilation on the first startup! Second time I started up I idled in the 3000 RPM range but it gradually came down to about 800 RPM's (idle) more or less and it has been driving fine for 2 days so far!

No chip-swap, I chipped away the idle screw's epoxy to test fit a hex wrench at the shops but I haven't adjusted it yet! No CEL and it's been totally normal so far apart from the 2000RPM idle for 20 seconds when I start up in the morning!

I can feel the 5th gear bite harder even at a lowly 60kph, not much but noticeable! And a slight wheelspin on my hill of a driveway today proved that the response is more than I'm used to! I put my stock airbox back and can swear that it's got a slightly stronger growl! I hope my luck holds!! :D

[LTHatch]

MedMantle:Your Yaris is a 2nzfe 1.3? Have a look at this thread: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53087
Japle did a bunch of dyno runs with his 1nzfe yaris, for some reason his 1nzfe came with the 2nzfe intake manifold. After installing the 1nzfe intake manifold he gained 14whp, just a guess here but i think the 1nzfe intake manifold may be an upgrade to the 2nzfe guys. You definitely won't gain the power Japle did but there might be a few horsepower in there to gain.

[MedMantle]

Wow, that is amazing!! I'm actually still contemplating doing the engine swap to a 1NZ-FE! I just wanna make double sure that it's plug and play. It is my first car and the only car I drive and wouldn't want to sit with problems! I'm stupid when it comes to understanding HP figures.. how much of a difference would I feel going from 1.3l to 1.5l? is it worth the $1500 I roughly worked out for the engine and labour?

And just a side note, it has been a week driving with my TB, no problems apart from the high rev on startup! Can definitely feel the difference, especially when I accelerate after a gear change! :D

[LTHatch]

The difference would be noticeable, but worth 1500 that's completely up to your judgement. Being a plug n play swap i have no clue, but give it a few days i'm sure someone who has done it can give you the run down on all it takes to swap it.

Did the TB swap make your intake louder? How is your low end torque and mid range torque also?

[MedMantle]

It might cost a lot less and will work out a lot cheaper than doing anything else to my 1.3 :P will wait and see! :)

I originally had my OEM intake flipped with the filter exposed but the day I put the TB in I replaced my filter and mounted everything up stock, so unfortunately my intake got softer anyways. It does seem throatier, but it's hard to tell with my cat-back exhaust noise :/

I seriously feel a difference in all area's! Launching feels a lot more responsive and "grippier" and hill climbs feel a tad better! The biggest difference is in changing gears for me, it feels nearly seamless compared to the jerky nature it originally had... maybe it's all in my head? lol, but I'm happy and it only cost me $104 in total :) oh and I can hear and feel the extra air coming in when I depress the accelerator completely and my exhaust tone seems "higher" at that point than it normally was, so it MUST mean something! :D

[LTHatch]

Very nice MedMantle, are you planing any other mods in the near future for your Yaris?

[MedMantle]

I was planning a lot of things, but money is tight so I'm thinking more realistically.. gonna focus more on cosmetics and luxury! My sister traded in her T-sport for the 1.3 and moved to America, damn :'( , it's a tough downgrade but I'm making the best of it :P

Just recently fitted OEM Electric Windows that I bought second hand, I had to make the main harness though but so far so good!

I'm saving hard now to get the money to buy some lowering springs. I was gonna wait a bit longer and get coil-overs but I'm not dedicated enough to get the whole stance look so a decent drop is all I'm interested in!

I'm trying to keep the car as stock looking and sounding as possible, that is why I just went for a 8" sub and it's the reason I'm gonna get my cat-back "softened". I removed all my stickers and allready sold my angel-eyes..
I just kinda had a mindset change and its cost me a lot but I don't regret any of my purchases that I'm undoing! :P

[tooter]

I successfully installed it except I'm getting the pulsing revs and makes it seem like I want to race everyone lol..I dont quite have a hex small enough to adjust the idle screw

Do not drive it like that with the engine fishing around trying to find the idle speed. It's unsafe. Don't ask me how I know. :laugh:

I found the closest hex that's just slightly larger and tapped it in with a small mallet for a really tight fit. You do NOT want to strip out that tiny screw.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_6626_zps678af55a.jpg

Make sure the epoxy is cleared and use a little bit of liquid wrench to help it break free. It will make a cracking noise when it moves, and that's good. When it moves take it one full turn out (counterclockwise) to allow the butterfly to close enough for the ECU to find a stable idle.


Greg

[KTS]

I agree that the 1zz throttle body is a great mod. I loved driving my 2007 Vitz RS with it. The car had much better throttle response its quite noticeable

Is it worth doing this mod with the Blitz Supercharger Kit?? What you guys suggest?

I have the S/C installed about a month now and the car drives great. Can it really drive that much better if I install the 1zz tb. Of course I will have to port match the intake pipe.
Also if I do port match the intake will I be able to reinstall the 1nz tb with out any issues?

[invader166]

Is it worth doing this mod with the Blitz Supercharger Kit?? What you guys suggest?

Absolutely! By increasing the diameter of your throttle-body, you're further improving the air-flow by providing less restriction for the air to reach the intake manifold. More air means you can increase your air-fuel ratios. :wink:

Just be careful, there is a limit on how much the engine can sustain.

[KTS]

thanks invader166.

[HANZO_187]

Ok so I'm back from the dead...!!!

Hanzo is BACK!!

What are the parts for the throttle bodies that fit the 1NZ-FE?

I have the sedan, and I'm looking to make some good gains.
I read a few different tb's people have used and some have twisted the hex bolt and some haven't.

I haven't read through these threads lately, if some one could appoint me to the Throttle Body thread and can someone tell me if TOOTER still does custom work??

Miss this Forum, glad to be back!!

[phaznet]

Finally installed the 1zz from a corolla, got the part from the local wrecking yard.
The only part # I could find was the ODO31. At first I got a check engine light, diagnosed it and 5 things came up. The next day the check engine light was gone :) I'm glad I wont have to do the chip swap!!!

The engine starts with a high idle, close to 3000 rpm. Only thing now is that epoxied screw. Going to tackle that now and post back.

Also, for anyone not sure about whether they want to do this mod - DO IT!!! You will feel a difference, especially if you've done other performance mods to your Yaris.

[MedMantle]

After riding tonight I must say that after 100KmPH in 5th gear I can definitely feel the car pulling much harder and climbing in speed way faster! So definitely a improvement on the top end as well! One day I'll get the courage to port match my Intake Manifold to the TB and see what it does :P

[phaznet]

I'm stuck!

This damn epoxied bolt/screw. I can't turn the damn thing. I've chipped away all the epoxy, plus used a tiny bit of paint thinner to eat away at the epoxy. I tried something a member did, which was to tap a slightly larger diameter hex key, but I couldn't torque it enough to get it to turn, it just stripped it.

I need help!

[CrankyOldMan]

I did the same thing with mine. I ended up drilling it out and replacing it with a 1/4-20 bolt

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[phaznet]

That seems a bit risky, but I might use it as a last resort. How long is the screw? What is it holding/pushing?

[CrankyOldMan]

Yeah, you need to remove it from the intake completely. I don't recall the length, probably 1 1/4" socket head cap screw. It's for adjusting the idle position of the butterfly valve.

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[phaznet]

Finally got that screw to turn, was the hardest part of install for me.

I've turned it 1 full rotation counter clockwise, but I haven't really noticed a difference!

How much did you guys turn it?

Thanks

[scod4025]

With mine needed to get a tach on it to get it to idle right ended up buying a scan gauge II and then got it dialed in right and was closer to about two and half turns in to get it to 700 rpm at idle

[Rigaud]

790rpm and up you'll get a code for high idle. I got mine at about 600rpm on idle, been over a year and zero issues. I'll finally have time to mod a 1zz aluminum intake and have everything match properly. Just the 1ZZ TB alone you still don't get the full benefit.

[invader166]

I'll finally have time to mod a 1zz aluminum intake and have everything match properly. Just the 1ZZ TB alone you still don't get the full benefit.

Are you moding a 1zz aluminum intake manifold from an '98-'02 corolla? Is it a big project. Please let us know how it turns out!
I wonder if I could do the same for a plastic intake manifold from an '03+ corolla...

[Rigaud]

Are you moding a 1zz aluminum intake manifold from an '98-'02 corolla? Is it a big project. Please let us know how it turns out!
I wonder if I could do the same for a plastic intake manifold from an '03+ corolla...

Bolt holes to the head don't match but the ports do 100%. I'm cutting off the existing mounting plate, machining a new one to fit, tig weld the port it. The other end is a 3 stud mount for the TB, cutting that off too, machine, weld, port and voila. I don't know the exact year but looks like a celica intake.

[invader166]

^^^ +1 for custom manifold!:w00t:

[bebeelo]

so all I have to do is install the new throttle body, then either loosen up or tighten the idle screw?

[MedMantle]

so all I have to do is install the new throttle body, then either loosen up or tighten the idle screw?

Yes. Install it, make sure the gasket is sealing properly and just loosen the idle screw to reduce the idle RPM's and tighten to increase. Make sure to chip away the resin on that screw before installation :)

[bebeelo]

Make sure to chip away the resin on that screw before installation :)

do I use A toothpick or a screwdriver to take it out?

[MedMantle]

do I use A toothpick or a screwdriver to take it out?

It's quite hard. I used a small flat-headed screwdriver and a hammer to tap at the resin "carefully" and to dig in it. Make sure to get it all off so the screw doesn't strip when you try to adjust it.

Maybe someone else knows a safer or easier way?? :P

And remember it is a Allen Key screw. It was quite difficult to source the correct one here where I live but everything is difficult to find over here :P

[bebeelo]

Thanks for the specific info medmantle👌 btw im using a CAI so do i need a specific intake hose adapter thingy like this one or could i uss the one that originally came with CAI?

[scod4025]

I was able to use the one that came with my CAI just took a little bit of finesse. Just rounded the inside edge a bit then little bit of oil and it slide on


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[MedMantle]

I still have the stock intake. Like 'scod' said, just give it all you've got! :P I had to turn my stock intake pipe around to get it to fit and it was still quite tight and difficult to get over, but I eventually got it. I would have loved to be able to use a adapter like that but we have almost no aftermarket car stuff where I live. :)

[Rigaud]

I still have the stock intake. Like 'scod' said, just give it all you've got! :P I had to turn my stock intake pipe around to get it to fit and it was still quite tight and difficult to get over, but I eventually got it. I would have loved to be able to use a adapter like that but we have almost no aftermarket car stuff where I live. :)

You don't get the full benefit of the 1ZZ TB with a stock air intake pipe/filter and stock intake manifold. Everything is 46mm while the 1ZZ is about 55mm. I did the same as you at first but ended up installing a proper tube and filter. Next is the intake manifold and port polish the head. Only way to benefit 100%

[MedMantle]

You don't get the full benefit of the 1ZZ TB with a stock air intake pipe/filter and stock intake manifold. Everything is 46mm while the 1ZZ is about 55mm. I did the same as you at first but ended up installing a proper tube and filter. Next is the intake manifold and port polish the head. Only way to benefit 100%

Rigaud, what air intake did you use for your setup? Do you maybe have a picture? I'd imagine the ribbed stock intake pipe causes some disturbance with flow. I wanted to get an aftermarket intake (specifically the Injen CAI) mainly for eye candy.

In the future I'm gonna look at doing an engine swap to the 1.5 (yes, I am driving the 2NZ-FE :help: ) and once I have the engine I'm gonna do a bit of work on it like porting and stuff regardless of the gains, mainly for fun though 'cause I'm still learning. I'm happy to hear there are still potencial gains to come :D

This forum was my first introduction to how cars work so my Yaris is kinda my guinea-pig :P

[phaznet]

You don't get the full benefit of the 1ZZ TB with a stock air intake pipe/filter and stock intake manifold. Everything is 46mm while the 1ZZ is about 55mm. I did the same as you at first but ended up installing a proper tube and filter. Next is the intake manifold and port polish the head. Only way to benefit 100%

What options do we have for changing our intake manifold?

[scod4025]

I'm running a long runner golden eagle intake manifold that I got from micro image (may see if he can still get one for you) but have seen short runners from Golden Eagle and if you're looking at the TB i think some people run the corolla intake manifold but you have to modify it but from what I've seen looks like it would work better as its a smoother transition

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[CrankyOldMan]

What options do we have for changing our intake manifold?

Bolt-on options are pretty few and far between: golden eagle, MicroImage, and possibly Weapon-R. The Corolla manifold requires a custom TB adapter and machining a flange for the engine block. Tooter made a short run of them a few years back, and is no longer making them. If you want to go that route, I've posted a PDF of the flange dimensions in another thread.

[bebeelo]

Is it useless to have a 1zz tb on stock intake manifold then?

[CrankyOldMan]

Is it useless to have a 1zz tb on stock intake manifold then?
No, you will still have increased throttle response. You just won't see the full benefit without supporting mods.

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[scod4025]

Hey just wondering if anyone has figured out what the stock air box cfm is, I know that the 1nz-fe flows about 170 cfm and the TB flows about 250? cfm, so if free flowing NA we are hurting our engine performance (noticed this as I accelerate better at about 3/4 throttle) anyone else look into this?

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[Rigaud]

The one I picked up is from an older celica from the late 90's, drive by cable and 3 stud mount for the TB. ports to the head match 100% however the bolt pattern doesn't. I just need to find time to go at my friends home machine shop, machine a new plate for both the TB and to mount on the head. Then cut and weld them, polish up the intake with a clear coat for a finish. I'll have time in a few weeks. The air intake I purchased a 45deg. 3" tube, tig welded a tube and machined maf mount then installed a K&N cone filter. I still have to finish my carbon fiber air box and tubing to take in cold air below the headlight somehow. This winter if budget allows it, the head comes off for a port polish and possibly cams. It's all about money and I have three cars that are not or will not be stock. lol

[invader166]

Tooter made a short run of them a few years back, and is no longer making them. If you want to go that route, I've posted a PDF of the flange dimensions in another thread.

I'd actually be interested in going that route. It would be a cool project to take on. Which thread did you post the flange dimentions in?

[phaznet]

I'd actually be interested in going that route. It would be a cool project to take on. Which thread did you post the flange dimentions in?

Me too!

[invader166]

Update: Ok. Found the template for the flange that can connect the 1zz intake manifold runners to the 1NZ engine block intake ports.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=641024&postcount=7

Beautiful piece of work. Thanks Cranky!:w00t:

Next, gotta find some info on the bolt pattern adaptor for the throttle body...

[CrankyOldMan]

Beautiful piece of work. Thanks Cranky!:w00t:

Next, gotta find some info on the bolt pattern adaptor for the throttle body...

Thanks. The other adapter plate was made by tooter, but I don't think he published the design. I may have the dimensions for both bolt patterns in my CAD library and could post them if I do.

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[tmontague]

I'm thinking about doing this mod next spring to go along with my intake and header.

Rock auto only has the 031 TB listed. Will this one still work as long as you swap the chip from th stock TB?

Does anyone know an online source to find the 030 TB?

I will have to keep running the coolant to the TB due to where I live. Has anyone been able to run th stock hoses by just swapping them a previously stated?

[scod4025]

About the hoses it's not hard to get a new piece of hose got one from auto zone cut to the length I needed for like 4 dollars

I couldn't find anywhere online that sold the TB but searched for toyota recyclers online near me and found quite a few that had them and cheaper then getting it though the auto parts stores

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[tmontague]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll likely buy extra hose just in case.

Did you give th recyclers the parts # for the TB and ask I they had it?

[scod4025]

I just asked for the year and model that you want the TB from mine was from a 2006 corolla

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[Rigaud]

Found my 1zz TB on ebay one year ago and it was rebuilt new condition for $100 about. Same this year for my 1zz intake manifold and $40

[Yargh-Is]

Hello Black_griffin6,

Quick question, do you happen to have a part number for that 1zz throttle body? I'm looking to install into my '09 Yaris hatchback, to complement my other mods (K&N cold air intake, Blitz supercharger, DC header, Magnaflow catalytic converter, and TRD exhaust).

Thanks!

[Black_griffin6]

Hello Black_griffin6,

Quick question, do you happen to have a part number for that 1zz throttle body? I'm looking to install into my '09 Yaris hatchback, to complement my other mods (K&N cold air intake, Blitz supercharger, DC header, Magnaflow catalytic converter, and TRD exhaust).

Thanks!
I do actually! The part number is 22030-0D030.

There's actually one for sale on ebay right here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-Toyota-Corolla-Throttle-Body-1-8L-Automatic-OEM-/361552508570?hash=item542e35769a:g:4McAAOSw2x1XLsS G&vxp=mtr

[NJP440]

$73 shit I'd check a local junk yard first I picked mine up from a Pull A Part for $49

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[Black_griffin6]

$73 shit I'd check a local junk yard first I picked mine up from a Pull A Part for $49

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If you can find one at pull a part then that's the more desirable route.
My local pull a part doesn't have anything newer in it usually.

[NJP440]

Ah ok my local Pull A Part is full of Corollas right now lol

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[CrankyOldMan]

Hello Black_griffin6,

Quick question, do you happen to have a part number for that 1zz throttle body? I'm looking to install into my '09 Yaris hatchback, to complement my other mods (K&N cold air intake, Blitz supercharger, DC header, Magnaflow catalytic converter, and TRD exhaust).

Thanks!

Do you plan to port your intake manifold? The stock TB gasket won't stay put or seal with the 1ZZ body, if I recall correctly.

[Black_griffin6]

Do you plan to port your intake manifold? The stock TB gasket won't stay put or seal with the 1ZZ body, if I recall correctly.
If I recall correctly, it worked find for me. I just used some silicone gasket maker around the new throttle body just to ensure an airtight seal.
I might have did away with the stock TB gasket...this was a few years ago, I don't recall exactly. XD

[tarkus]

Hi,can you share the full part number.
Thanks.

Edit* Found it.
22030-0D030
I've found one on eBay, shown as a 22030-0D031. Anyone know what that is? Or is it probably just a typo?

[SirDigby]

I've found one on eBay, shown as a 22030-0D031. Anyone know what that is? Or is it probably just a typo?

it doesn't matter the part number. I got one off a matrix. (0d030)
you should just do the chip swap and adjust the COLD idle screw and it works great.

the chip swap is super-doper pooper-scooper easy. you just drill out the rivets on both TBs and swap the back covers. install bolts and nuts to secure. no wiring or soldering. it's 99.99999% impossible to do anything wrong. go to a local junkyard or pull-and-save or whatever to get the best price, and you can have one tomorrow!

here's mine. had it for 3 months now. LOVE IT!!!
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1179

[codemonkey23]

is this plug and play?

[NJP440]

is this plug and play?
Just have to follow what the comment above you says and you'll be good

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[codemonkey23]

Just have to follow what the comment above you says and you'll be good

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thanks for your response..

i have saved some important pointers from this thread about the swap.

another question is do we need to have a piggyback ECU to tune the A/F mixture? since we are running 55mm TB, doesn't that make the fuel mixtures lean?


so basically what i understood on my back-read.


1st slap in 1zz-fe TB in the intake manifold. screw 4 screw

plug the connector

look for the epoxied screw, and adjust idle to 600 - 700 rpm



then ENJOY??

[tarkus]

You've forgotten about the chip swap. Not sure though if the swap is required for the 0D030 TB version.

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[codemonkey23]

You've forgotten about the chip swap. Not sure though if the swap is required for the 0D030 TB version.

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oh.. right.. i have to re read about that chip swap.. i don't think it was discussed here in detail

[Fluxtasy]

I bought the 0D030 and did not require a chip swap

[codemonkey23]

hello everyone,

what is the chip swap for?

i mean every throttle body has a wiring socket right? so i will just unplug the wire socket from the 2nzfe TB then snap it into 1zzfe TB? then check if the butterfly opens when accelerator is depressed?

i am confused.. if the TB works why do i have to swap the chip?

and what is the chip? can sombody post a picture of the chip? :D :D i only know potato chips :D :D

[Fluxtasy]

I believe you will have idling issues if you don't do the chip swap. Try to source a 0D030 TB and save yourself the hassle on the chip swap. There's a thread somewhere on it.

[codemonkey23]

I believe you will have idling issues if you don't do the chip swap. Try to source a 0D030 TB and save yourself the hassle on the chip swap. There's a thread somewhere on it.

oh i thought that i can fix idling issues by removing the epoxy on the allen screw of the TB? turn it 1 round counter clockwise?

thanks for replying

[tarkus]

You will need to adjust that screw as well. This is all explained in previous posts in this thread.

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[codemonkey23]

You will need to adjust that screw as well. This is all explained in previous posts in this thread.

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yep.. but i guess the chip swap was not discussed

[rabbito]

How's the sounds like when you run 2.5" exhaust? Did you delete resonator and second CAT? Do you lose any lower end and getting more high end. VVTI kicks harder?

Thanks!
responding after 2 years later..lol...2nd cat delete do increase the flow and faster rpm gain...con is the bumble bee noise when accelerating up to 2000rpm, no more sound after 2000rpm 😣

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[JessMess]

Does anybody know what years and models have the 1zz motor?? I do alot of junkyard shopping lol what car would i find the correct TB??

[rabbito]

Does anybody know what years and models have the 1zz motor?? I do alot of junkyard shopping lol what car would i find the correct TB??
any 60mm should fit...you should look for steel intake manifold for corolla 1zz...this one is really hard to come by...you have to modify the adapter a little bit but out comes pretty crazy..

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[Yaris874]

Uuuu

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[NJP440]

Are we reviving this thread? Lol

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[Yaris874]

I was just thinking of putting the 1zz throttle body lol I wanna to read the thread later wat u think

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[Yaris874]

And any 1zz fit ??

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[NJP440]

I was just thinking of putting the 1zz throttle body lol I wanna to read the thread later wat u think

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I think its a good idea. I still haven't installed mine yet its just sitting in a box in my closet but I'm installing my header and cold air intake this Saturday so the throttle body will be the next install on my list. Ill post up pics and reviews once its installed. If you're on Facebook my name is Nicholas Prendergast and on Instagram I'm 2010egghatch I always post updates on both as well

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[Yaris874]

I got u on Instagram I just ored a weapon r throttle control the u see those ?

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[Yaris874]

The u know Wat throttle body

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[NJP440]

The u know Wat throttle body

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Pics?

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[Yaris874]

Wat car and year I saw some on ebay from matrix Corolla or Celica gt

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[NJP440]

Wat car and year I saw some on ebay from matrix Corolla or Celica gt

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There's a part number above in the comments

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[Yaris874]

Ok cool

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[NJP440]

Ok cool

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Part number

22030-0D030

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[Yaris874]

Cool thanks

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[DarkShadowFox]

Can This Work on 3rd Gen Models with A/T ? Or will there be an interference issue? can I swap the electronic throttle piece onto the 1zz throttle for the A/T drive by wire piece? I heard these open quicker.

[corradovr6]

Old thread!
What TB would be needed for a Ph1 Yaris T sport?

[Chriistivx]

Can someone help me with this install, im not very good with my english and i have my doubths of it. Im from puerto rico if someone knows a mecanic that works on yaris here or someone that has done it. Heres my ig chriistivx. Thanks