new mod! air ride advantages :)

[DINOeggxo]

Installed the newest mod today. Got the idea after dealing with some pesky leaky BBS wheels (which are all fixed now). already used it to fill up the misters slow leaky tires on his R32. being bagged has its advantages :)

also got a set of real JDM tails from Vten :)

a few recent pics too :)

[1.5]

Hah that is awesome. I thought air rides were closed systems though??

Im so afraid my bbs are gonna leak when I reassemble them too :( Any tricks to avoid this?

Tails look great!

[47_MasoN_47]

Those tails look a ton better than the US ones.

[sasquatch]

Hah that is awesome. I thought air rides were closed systems though??

Im so afraid my bbs are gonna leak when I reassemble them too :( Any tricks to avoid this?

Tails look great!

The tank had an extra port that was just sealed off with a bolt so we put a fitting in :)


Which bbs are you sealing up?

Either way get 100% silicone (think bathroom sealant) and use a caulk gun and lay down a nice bead of it around the mating surfaces.

If they are RS's you will lay it on the mating surfaces where the bolts go between the face and the lip. And more on the bottom side I believe. Just wipe off any that squeezes out when you torque the bolts.

Hers were fine last year, no leaks at all. This year I was in a hurry putting them together because there was a show coming up and they need to sit for 24 hours to seal and I ended up missing some spots. All good now though.

Here is the thread I used as a guide the first time I did it.
http://forum.wheel-whores.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8518

Also a good thread


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4173528-DIY-Rebuilding-BBS-RS-RM

[1.5]

Thanks dude. I have been reading up on tear downs/rebuilds for a while as these are the first 3 pc wheels I've ever built. They are RS 001's. They were siliconed on both sides of the face so I planned on doing that again. Guess it's time to invest in a torque wrench.

Hopefully if I take my time like your first attempt, ill be fine. I might be overthinking it.

By the closed system I meant like if the air is taken out of the system is there new air coming in to replace it? I thought you bought a tank filled it with air and then that air stayed internal for the life of the kit. I guess the compressors are bringing outside air in? And if they are what is the purpose of a tank? Couldnt you just always bring air in to air up and then purge it to the enviroment to air out?

[mr_miles]

Yeah, compressors bring outside air in. When you let a car down, the Pssshhhhh is the air escaping out. I don't think a closed system could function properly, there would be pressure issues when you tried to lower or raise it, and it would probably even out lopsided like badly cut springs, lol

[1.5]

True and I guess compressors all do have tanks that hold the reserve the air and then refill it

[sasquatch]

Thanks dude. I have been reading up on tear downs/rebuilds for a while as these are the first 3 pc wheels I've ever built. They are RS 001's. They were siliconed on both sides of the face so I planned on doing that again. Guess it's time to invest in a torque wrench.

Hopefully if I take my time like your first attempt, ill be fine. I might be overthinking it.

By the closed system I meant like if the air is taken out of the system is there new air coming in to replace it? I thought you bought a tank filled it with air and then that air stayed internal for the life of the kit. I guess the compressors are bringing outside air in? And if they are what is the purpose of a tank? Couldnt you just always bring air in to air up and then purge it to the enviroment to air out?

Yea the psh noise is the air leaving and then compressors fill the tank again.

The wheels aren't bad, take your time, tighten them in the star pattern like lugs on a car and make sure the silicone covers the cracks. I even used a puddy knife to spread it a little to make sure everything was covered.

Are you reusing the bolts or did you get new ones? I believe the BBS reccomended torque is like 23ft/lbs for RS's. and then after driving on them for a few days recheck them

[1.5]

Cool thanks again. The only thing I am keeping from the stock wheels is the centers and the waffles/hex's. Barrels/lips/bolts are all new with a redrill and powder coat.

[sasquatch]

New BBS oem bolts or BFI replacement bolts? If you get BFI bolts def check them after driving and torque them a little more than spec. We did her RM's with BFI bolts to bbs spec and they came loose and some started snapping off.

[1.5]

Shit. Yeah BFI is pretty much sourcing all my bolts/nuts/lips, no one can beat their pricing. I heard the same that their lips dent when you torque them past the BBS specs but that if you dont the bolts loosen and some break.

[sasquatch]

Yea their pricing is good.

However Dinoegg has the bfi 2.5" lips and hers are holding up quite well. I believe she got her fronts from tuner shop. No dents in either and I torqued her bolts to 18(bbs spec is like 14) this time hoping they don't come loose.

[1.5]

Sounds good. Im gonna run 2.5" lips in the rear as well.

[1.5]

Sasquatch I know im jacking your girls thread but I have another question regarding the rebuild. After the info you gave me, I went searching around and saw that most people recommend around 22-25 lb/ft of torque for the RS bolts too, but I saw some people saying as high as 40 and I found a bunch of people stating 40 ft/lbs. Also I reconciled the info with a few vendors selling bolts and all of them told me the tensile strength of their bolts are 12lb/ft and they all told me that is higher than BBS's own specs. This is confusing me lol, by their info I would be snapping every bolt tightening them down double the threshold.

[sasquatch]

Sasquatch I know im jacking your girls thread but I have another question regarding the rebuild. After the info you gave me, I went searching around and saw that most people recommend around 22-25 lb/ft of torque for the RS bolts too, but I saw some people saying as high as 40 and I found a bunch of people stating 40 ft/lbs. Also I reconciled the info with a few vendors selling bolts and all of them told me the tensile strength of their bolts are 12lb/ft and they all told me that is higher than BBS's own specs. This is confusing me lol, by their info I would be snapping every bolt tightening them down double the threshold.

No problem:

Unfortunately I have seen all different specs too. Rs and rm bolts are different torques to begin with. Her RM's are 12ft/lbs as per BBS but when I asked BFI at a show why they were breaking they said 12ft/lbs was not enough and they do 20ft/lbs at the shop. So RS bolts are 22ft/lbs as per bbs so I don't find it off people are saying 30+ft/lbs. there is a chance that BFI has the wrong specs printed on their site and all the hardware is listed as the same.

Then also to throw into the mix: BFI bolts are NOT bbs oem bolts. They are replacement bolts that are most likely different bolts all together, therefore different torque specs.

And then: people who reuse bolts say to torque them more than oem spec because they have already stretched some and new more tq to get them to hold properly.

It's confusing and shitty. But like BFI sells replacement bolts were as tuner shop may sell oem bbs bolts and I believe ecs tuning sells real bbs bolts too(or did). Easiest way to tell real vs replacement is replacement (BFI) are like 1-2 a bolt where as real bbs bolts will likely be only sold as a compete set for 260-350 a set.

[1.5]

lol thanks again. I opted for a set of OEM BBS bolts that were rechromed. I asked the vendor his opinions and he said torque em to 25 and go a little tighter. After a few miles retorque em like you said too. So its like a trial and error kinda thing. He owns a custom wheel company that rebuilds 3 pc wheels and said he has never had a bolt snap on him doing it that way.

[sasquatch]

lol thanks again. I opted for a set of OEM BBS bolts that were rechromed. I asked the vendor his opinions and he said torque em to 25 and go a little tighter. After a few miles retorque em like you said too. So its like a trial and error kinda thing. He owns a custom wheel company that rebuilds 3 pc wheels and said he has never had a bolt snap on him doing it that way.

Yea I'm pretty sure the oem bolts are somehow beefier than the replacement bolts. Never had a problem with those. Don't forget the loc-tite!

[1.5]

Yes definitely. I'm picking up all my chemicals this week. I need loctite, a wax paper to help prevent scratching, airecraft stripper, sand paper, wd40, wire brushes, Polish, and silicone/sealant. I'm gonna attempt a DIY repolish of the hexes. For sealant I have heard Fipg or Toyota seal are good.

[sasquatch]

Yes definitely. I'm picking up all my chemicals this week. I need loctite, a wax paper to help prevent scratching, airecraft stripper, sand paper, wd40, wire brushes, Polish, and silicone/sealant. I'm gonna attempt a DIY repolish of the hexes. For sealant I have heard Fipg or Toyota seal are good.

I've heard he Toyota seal is good. I just used G&E bathroom silicone with no problems.

Good luck with the polishing! Your finger tips are gonna be permanently black haha

[DINOeggxo]

I can't wait to see these finished! Once I can afford my body work I want my wheels wider. Lol and a winter beater.

[1.5]

lol I want to go 9.5 +4 but that is too wild without some flares or somethng lol

[DINOeggxo]

Go big or go home. Lol

[1.5]

is 9.5 +17 good? Or do I have to go home?

[DINOeggxo]

You have to go home



Jkjk that's just going to be awesome

[1.5]

lol thanks... Yaris BBS crew

[DINOeggxo]

lol thanks... Yaris BBS crew

Yessssss bbs crew!