2007 Yaris blinkers don't work HELP

[jesusworship819]

Yesterday I changed the rear bulbs and believe I might have blow something. I just can not find out what it is. The hazard lights work but the blinkers do not. Also the car will only shift out of park if you use the shift bypass. Any tips or hints as to what I need to replace?

[Amdkt7]

Did you check the fuses? Next, a bulb might not be seated right. I would take the bulbs back out and recheck your work. Look for damaged wiring.

Final thought: Try resetting the ECU by removing the Neg battery terminal for 10 minutes, then recheck.

[CTScott]

You popped the 10A GAUGE fuse in the fuse panel that is under the bottom of the dash. That fuse feeds both the shift lock ECU and the turn signal flasher.

[YarisSedan]

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[YarisSedan]

+1 scott said check the 10amp fuse.

[jesusworship819]

If I remember correctly. I only saw one 10 a fuse in the panel under the dash last night. Bit was on the left side. Is that the fuse you guys are talking about. Thanks for the quick responses!

[CTScott]

If I remember correctly. I only saw one 10 a fuse in the panel under the dash last night. Bit was on the left side. Is that the fuse you guys are talking about. Thanks for the quick responses!

No. look under the bottom of that area (literally up under the bottom of the dash) for the panel.

[jesusworship819]

I will. Thanks Scott I will give it a shot tonight when I get home

[jesusworship819]

Replaced the 10a fuse. Now the lights and the shifter work. HOWEVER now my ac will not turn on. No air blows out of my ac. Lights on the nobs work but no power. Where can I check for that. I figure it is another blown fuse. I checked in the same panel under ac and that fuse is not blown. Any suggestions?

[Amdkt7]

I'm guessing the fan does not run whither heat/no heat/ac is selected. Probably a fuse for the fan that is separate from the AC.

Just joking, maybe you should not work on cars?

Really, it is hard to imagine what you could have done to cause this many problems just changing tail lights. Did you per chance do any thing else at the same time?

[jesusworship819]

HAHAH Well the reason I had to replace the tail light(s) is because someone threw a rock at my wife's rear brake light and busted the housing and one of the bulbs. I will say though I don't think I have ever had one get this buggered up over nothing. I just wondering what will happen when I change the oil next time....blown head gasket??....front bumper falls off??...The possibilities are endless

[CTScott]

Replaced the 10a fuse. Now the lights and the shifter work. HOWEVER now my ac will not turn on. No air blows out of my ac. Lights on the nobs work but no power. Where can I check for that. I figure it is another blown fuse. I checked in the same panel under ac and that fuse is not blown. Any suggestions?

The 10A GAUGE fuse is the control fuse for the AC as well. Check the 40A HTR fusible link (one of the square fuses) on the face of the under-dash fuse panel. That one supplies the high current feed to the blower.

[jesusworship819]

I know this is turning out to be car maintenance for dummies. Buuuuuuttt. If you are talking about a fuse on the panel above when i replaced the 10a fuse I do not see a 40a fuse there. Am I just missing it or am I not seeing the right thing or looking in the right place?

[jesusworship819]

Alright here is the tally. Rear back up lights do not work. Ac or heater do not work. Blinkers work. Shifter works. I have absolutely no clue how everything got this screwed up. Checked all the fuses I could find and they all seem fine(Replaced the 10a gauge fuse like ct scott recommended). This might turn out to be one of those take it to the people that get paid to do this kind of situation. This is just crazy.

[CTScott]

Alright here is the tally. Rear back up lights do not work. Ac or heater do not work. Blinkers work. Shifter works. I have absolutely no clue how everything got this screwed up. Checked all the fuses I could find and they all seem fine(Replaced the 10a gauge fuse like ct scott recommended). This might turn out to be one of those take it to the people that get paid to do this kind of situation. This is just crazy.

The back up light runs off the GAUGE fuse as well. Are you sure that the new one you put in did not pop as well?

[Youngbleeze]

You popped the 10A GAUGE fuse in the fuse panel that is under the bottom of the dash. That fuse feeds both the shift lock ECU and the turn signal flasher. you just saved me $350 sir :clap::bow::thumbup::respekt:

[Chuck G]

you just saved me $350 sir :clap::bow::thumbup::respekt:

That's what he does!!

[jwoehrle]

Here it goes.. I already know I did something extremely dumb however I know being completly honest may help diagnose this easier. I was installing new aftermarket tailight assemblies on my 2007 yaris liftback.. stupid me was in a hurry and I wasn't paying attention..did it while the engine was running.. now heres the problem. blower does not work at any fan speed. also the light that indicates rear defroster is on, is constantly lit now. if i put the blower in any speed other than off, or OR push the button to power on the rear defroster, then my signals wont work

[CTScott]

Here it goes.. I already know I did something extremely dumb however I know being completly honest may help diagnose this easier. I was installing new aftermarket tailight assemblies on my 2007 yaris liftback.. stupid me was in a hurry and I wasn't paying attention..did it while the engine was running.. now heres the problem. blower does not work at any fan speed. also the light that indicates rear defroster is on, is constantly lit now. if i put the blower in any speed other than off, or OR push the button to power on the rear defroster, then my signals wont work

It sounds like you crossed a wire for the tail light with something else. The tail light circuit feeds many other illumination related items (including the defroster light). Can you snap some pictures of how you wired the aftermarket tails? (I assume they were not plug and play, but rather the type where you had to cut and splice)

[jwoehrle]

no, they were plug and play. I also had a module spliced in for trailer lights...thought maybe it went bad so i disconnected but the crimp down connectors are still in place. maybe causing issue? also, i reconnected the original factory assemblies and problem still exists

[CTScott]

no, they were plug and play. I also had a module spliced in for trailer lights...thought maybe it went bad so i disconnected but the crimp down connectors are still in place. maybe causing issue? also, i reconnected the original factory assemblies and problem still exists

OK. Check the trailer module crimps. You may have two with an exposed piece of wire touching.

[jwoehrle]

...just checked...doesnt seem to be..is there a possibility this is a relay/fuse issue? also...i've never been a fan of those crimp connectors..do u know what color the ground wire would be on the harness that plugs into tghe rear tailights? i may remove connector and try to splice it back with a tube type connector

[CTScott]

...just checked...doesnt seem to be..is there a possibility this is a relay/fuse issue? also...i've never been a fan of those crimp connectors..do u know what color the ground wire would be on the harness that plugs into tghe rear tailights? i may remove connector and try to splice it back with a tube type connector

With the behavior that you described above, it sounds more like two circuits are bridged than like a relay or fuse issue. Ground wires are white wires with a black stripe.

For fuses that could potentially be involved, the 10A GAUGE fuse feeds the coil side of the blower and the coil side of the rear defogger. The 10A Tail fuse feeds the tail light bubs and all of the illumination circuits.

[jwoehrle]

the module for trailer lights had its own ground wire that attatched directly to the car. in other words it didnt tie into the tailight wiring harness like the others so i'm guessing the white/black ground is undisturbed. im thinking of removing all the crimp down connectors, cutting the wires, and then splicing them back together. if that doesnt work i'll start checking fuses and/or relays i guess...not sure what else....

[jwoehrle]

TO: CTScott


Thanks again for all the help..just wanted to let you know i've fixed the problem and it WAS the 10amp Gauge fuse...here's the thing though. that was the FIRST thing i checked before i even sought out this message board for help. when i examined it, the filament wasn't broken, fuse looked good. however when i tested it with a multi tester while it was still in place, it read full voltage on one side, only half on the other. replacing the fuse fixed everything. it was bad, but not "blown" to the naked eye

[CTScott]

TO: CTScott


Thanks again for all the help..just wanted to let you know i've fixed the problem and it WAS the 10amp Gauge fuse...here's the thing though. that was the FIRST thing i checked before i even sought out this message board for help. when i examined it, the filament wasn't broken, fuse looked good. however when i tested it with a multi tester while it was still in place, it read full voltage on one side, only half on the other. replacing the fuse fixed everything. it was bad, but not "blown" to the naked eye

That is wild. It cooked enough to thin it out, but not enough to fully blow it. I can't say that I have seen one do that before.