Making a engine wiring harness

[maxthehax]

Hey guys, I would like to purchase a aem EMS standalone and Im planning to make a fresh new harness for it.

There are some OEM sensors that I will keep to run the engine, by exemple;
-Crank position sensor
-Cam position sensor
-VVTI solenoid
-PWM on the TB
-TPS on the TB

I have all the sensors, all I need are 2 pieces;

The plastic clip that hook up directly to those sensors and the little metal connector that crimp to your wire and slip into the plastic connector.

I don't want any solder, I want a fresh new harness just like a OEM one.

Where can I find those connectors?

Here is a nice website I found but it doesnt say much about the connectors and they mostly look all the same...
http://www.automotivewiringsystems.com/4-36-products.htm

[CTScott]

Are you looking specifically for the connectors for each of the sensors that you listed? If so, I believe that I have all of them on hand.

[maxthehax]

Are you looking specifically for the connectors for each of the sensors that you listed? If so, I believe that I have all of them on hand.

Yes, that should be all. I dont have my notes with me...
Others gonna be AEM, so no need for them;
-water temp
-MAP

If I forget some I will post them later!

Thats a blast you have it all...

What about the metal pins that I need to go into the connectors?? I guess I will need special crimper tool.

Thanks!

Also, I have a echo, so my TB is a drive by cable. Not the electronics one

[CTScott]

Yes, that should be all.
Others gonna be AEM;
-water temp
-MAP

If I forget some I will post them later!

Thats a blast you have it all...

What about the metal pins that I need to go into the connectors?? I guess I will need special crimper.

Thanks!

Also, I have a echo, so my TB is a drive by cable. Not the electronics one

What I have are the actual OEM Yaris connectors with the OEM wires (so you would need to solder those wires to you EMS harness. The connector shells would run you about $10 each from Toyota and even they would supply the pins with a piece of wire already attached (for about $15 per pin). The reason for them being pre-crimped is that each pin type requires a completely different crimper (which are about $200 each from Sumitomo).

The TPS connector is different. The Toyota part number for the shell is: 90980-11261

The Idle Air Control connector (what you called the PWM) shell is: 90980-11145

The Crank, Cam, and OCV (VVTI) are the same for the Yaris and Echo.

[maxthehax]

What I have are the actual OEM Yaris connectors with the OEM wires (so you would need to solder those wires to you EMS harness. The connector shells would run you about $10 each from Toyota and even they would supply the pins with a piece of wire already attached (for about $15 per pin). The reason for them being pre-crimped is that each pin type requires a completely different crimper (which are about $200 each from Sumitomo).

The TPS connector is different. The Toyota part number for the shell is: 90980-11261

The Idle Air Control connector (what you called the PWM) shell is: 90980-11145

The Crank, Cam, and OCV (VVTI) are the same for the Yaris and Echo.

Cool thanks, I understand now what the toyota guy showed me (little wires already crimped)

I am currently working a bit on my yaris engine I have on a stand. I already have most of the connectors with butted wires. So that mean I could buy the piece of wire already crimped to make my connection. That require removing the old wires from each connectors, is that easy to do?

[CTScott]

Cool thanks, I understand now what the toyota guy showed me (little wires already crimped)

I am currently working a bit on my yaris engine I have on a stand. I already have most of the connectors with butted wires. So that mean I could buy the piece of wire already crimped to make my connection. That require removing the old wires from each connectors, is that easy to do?

Some of the pins are easy to remove and some are a real pain without a special pin extraction tool for that particular pin type.

[maxthehax]

Some of the pins are easy to remove and some are a real pain without a special pin extraction tool for that particular pin type.

Damn, here is the list of the connectors that I have and I need to remove pins and put new ones with new wires;

Injectors
COils
VVTI
Crank position
Cam position
Knock sensor

And those I need a new plastic connector plus the wiring;
TPS
Idle air control


If I bring all the connectors I have to my toyota dealer, do you think they have the tools to remove all the pins? They should also be able to order new pins...

Thanks!

[CTScott]

Damn, here is the list of the connectors that I have and I need to remove pins and put new ones with new wires;

Injectors
COils
VVTI
Crank position
Cam position
Knock sensor

And those I need a new plastic connector plus the wiring;
TPS
Idle air control


If I bring all the connectors I have to my toyota dealer, do you think they have the tools to remove all the pins? They should also be able to order new pins...

Thanks!


The service techs should have the SSTs for popping the various pins. With the number you would need to pop you would probably end up with an hour or two charge.

They can order the new pins (for about $15 each), and they will each come with a piece of wire attached. You can only get the actual crimpable pins directly from the manufacturer(s) and my experience with Sumitomo is that you have to buy a minimum of 20,000 of each type of pin.

[maxthehax]

The service techs should have the SSTs for popping the various pins. With the number you would need to pop you would probably end up with an hour or two charge.

They can order the new pins (for about $15 each), and they will each come with a piece of wire attached. You can only get the actual crimpable pins directly from the manufacturer(s) and my experience with Sumitomo is that you have to buy a minimum of 20,000 of each type of pin.

cool thanks. I would simply buy already crimped wires from toyota and make a quality solder to my harness.

I thank you very much for all informations. I should update the thread whenever I have news about this, and probably add pictures :P

:thumbsup:

[CrankyOldMan]

You can only get the actual crimpable pins directly from the manufacturer(s) and my experience with Sumitomo is that you have to buy a minimum of 20,000 of each type of pin.

This. And there may be a 16-32 week lead time. And they will also probably tell you that those part numbers don't exist (if they're proprietary OEM).

[CTScott]

This. And there may be a 16-32 week lead time. And they will also probably tell you that those part numbers don't exist (if they're proprietary OEM).

With Sumitomo I had to have a company tax ID to order them. The quoted lead time was 16-32 weeks, but they ended up getting them to me in less than 4 weeks.

[maxthehax]

With Sumitomo I had to have a company tax ID to order them. The quoted lead time was 16-32 weeks, but they ended up getting them to me in less than 4 weeks.

I don't want all that hassle, I will simply buy the pre-crimped wires from Toyota anyways...

By the way, for soldering my harness, I have 2 type of solder wire at home. Which one is better?

1. Dura pure 95% Tin 5% Antimony
2. Rosin Core 60% Tin 40% Lead

Thanks

[CrankyOldMan]

With Sumitomo I had to have a company tax ID to order them. The quoted lead time was 16-32 weeks, but they ended up getting them to me in less than 4 weeks.

That's always a bonus. In our engineering department, we have to beg/plead/steal to get enough of them to do the development testing of our shifters (assuming that we lost our minds and went with a new connector) and normally end up behind schedule as a result of someone not anticipating the lead time.

[CTScott]

I don't want all that hassle, I will simply buy the pre-crimped wires from Toyota anyways...

By the way, for soldering my harness, I have 2 type of solder wire at home. Which one is better?

1. Dura pure 95% Tin 5% Antimony
2. Rosin Core 60% Tin 40% Lead

Thanks

Lead based solder tends to flow better, but for environmental and health reasons has been replaced by the tin/antimony blends. I personally would use the lead for what you are doing.

[maxthehax]

Lead based solder tends to flow better, but for environmental and health reasons has been replaced by the tin/antimony blends. I personally would use the lead for what you are doing.

Okai thanks! :bow: