Massive inside wheel spin + outside wheel fender rub

[CrankyOldMan]

So I went all-out at this weekend's event and noticed some new behavior from my egg: inside wheel spin on sweeping turns and fender rub on the outside front wheel. I realize that adding the S/C has altered the output from my engine, but this seems rather surprising given the other mods on my car.

Here's the relevant stuff:
Tokico blues (OEM bump stops)
Tien S-techs
BFG Rivals (205/50R15) on 15x7 ET42
TRD rear swaybar
Blitz S/C
K&N drop-in filter

When I mounted my suspension this spring I attempted to set the camber as far negative as it could go on the stock bolts, but haven't tried aftermarket crash bolts yet.

Fixing that seems pretty easy, but I see there being a few solutions to the wheel spin: LSD, stiffer suspension, body bracing. The LSD seems to be the sure-fire way to kill the inside wheel spin, but it seems that a stiffer chassis or suspension could also help by keeping the wheel in contact with the pavement more firmly.

So where do I go from here? I'm sure there are other options out there, but I'm still a novice at setup.

[racerb]

Does your race class allow the LSD?? If so go that route, you'll drive yourself crazy trying to dial out wheel-spin with suspension tuning. I've raced several different brands of FWD race/auto-x cars and this Yaris is the first one that has exhibited wheel-spin even stock. I will have to say removing the front sway bar on the other cars has worked well, just not sure it would work for the Yaris!

I believe it was Andy Hollis who has experimented with different size front bars in autocross, going to a smaller bar in most cases. Check out his recommendations for FWD set-up, including his STF Mazda 2, which is about the closest thing to our cars he has run.

https://www.facebook.com/HollisRacing

racerb :iono:

[CrankyOldMan]

The supercharger puts me in SMF (street mod front) which has "unrestricted" engine and drivetrain as long as the block is from an OEM that made a block for the vehicle, so an LSD is allowed. I've got a transmission project that's been collecting dust, pending the addition of an LSD and a skilled set of hands to help put it back together.

[Jason@SportsCar]

So I went all-out at this weekend's event and noticed some new behavior from my egg: inside wheel spin on sweeping turns and fender rub on the outside front wheel. I realize that adding the S/C has altered the output from my engine, but this seems rather surprising given the other mods on my car.

Here's the relevant stuff:
Tokico blues (OEM bump stops)
Tien S-techs
BFG Rivals (205/50R15) on 15x7 ET42
TRD rear swaybar
Blitz S/C
K&N drop-in filter

When I mounted my suspension this spring I attempted to set the camber as far negative as it could go on the stock bolts, but haven't tried aftermarket crash bolts yet.

Fixing that seems pretty easy, but I see there being a few solutions to the wheel spin: LSD, stiffer suspension, body bracing. The LSD seems to be the sure-fire way to kill the inside wheel spin, but it seems that a stiffer chassis or suspension could also help by keeping the wheel in contact with the pavement more firmly.

So where do I go from here? I'm sure there are other options out there, but I'm still a novice at setup.

You have not installed crash bolts yet? :iono: The OE bolts should have never gone back in, you are just asking for understeer and accelerated tire wear. Step 1, negative camber.

Body bracing will do nothing but add weight to the car and take money out of your budget that can be used on things that make a difference - and likely make the car not even SMF legal, because most of the off-the-shelf stuff does not meet the attachment rules.

LSD, end of story. And get a good one, one that can handle the tq, like the OS Giken or the newly revised Cusco (they increased the clutch pack size, now its more in line with the OSG).

[xnamerxx]

like Jason said a lsd is the way to go otherwise you'll be chasing solutions like me. Also like Jason said get as much camber as you can.

[CrankyOldMan]

I've looked into the new Cusco and it seems to be pretty decent. Only real problem is availability: it's new and only one site in Japan lists the model I'm interested in (LSD 901 C15).

[Jason@SportsCar]

I've looked into the new Cusco and it seems to be pretty decent. Only real problem is availability: it's new and only one site in Japan lists the model I'm interested in (LSD 901 C15).

Why make it hard on yourself? OS Giken. :thumbsup:

[CrankyOldMan]

Why make it hard on yourself? OS Giken. :thumbsup:

Because it's hard on my wallet. =) Gotta make room for the AFR and boost gauges, exhaust, clutch, flywheel, etc., etc.

[xnamerxx]

Learn to fab makes the exhaust much cheaper :thumbsup:. But in all seriousness the OS Giken is the one to have unless you can somehow come across a TRD torsen for a decent price.