"Slip indicator" light stays on.

[Jamus]

That's pretty much it. The "slip indicator" light on the instrument cluster won't go off. Pushing or holding the "trac off" button doesn't do anything either. I'll add everything I did today incase any of it matters. I was going to install an aftermarket steering wheel, but opted not to once I saw how complicated getting it to work would be. I had the whole wheel and clockspring off. After putting everything back I drove it out of the garage and there was no "slip indicator" light on at that time. Later I started the car and pulled forward on uneven gravel and heard a clunk, which I thought was just a gravel hitting a heat shield or something. Then I drove a 1/4 mile. When I parked I noticed the light on. I don't know if it came on as soon as the clunk or later. I've searched and seen other indicators staying on, but not seen this specific problem. I'll get autozone to run my trouble codes tomorrow. Any advice in the meantime? This is a 2012 3dr L automatic if it makes any difference.

[CTScott]

According to the service manual, the Slip indicator light staying on means that there is either a problem with the circuit that feeds that light or a problem with the ABS ECU.

[Jamus]

Thanks for the quick response. Neither of those sound like they would be caused by a loud "clunk" noise, so it is most likely caused by my messing around with the steering wheel right? I had all the harnesses unplugged, could one not be making proper connection?

[CTScott]

Thanks for the quick response. Neither of those sound like they would be caused by a loud "clunk" noise, so it is most likely caused by my messing around with the steering wheel right? I had all the harnesses unplugged, could one not be making proper connection?

That could be possible. Also, if you turned the ignition on, while you had them unplugged, you may have set a DTC for the skid control system.

[Jamus]

I may have done that accidentally. I did have the key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel, to get at the screws on the column plastic. I have tried unhooking the battery to reset the computer, do I need a scanner to reset it?

[CTScott]

I may have done that accidentally. I did have the key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel, to get at the screws on the column plastic. I have tried unhooking the battery to reset the computer, do I need a scanner to reset it?

No. You can read the codes and reset it using a piece of wire to jump the CG and TC pins indicated below together on the OBD connector.

51030

To read the codes

1. Turn the ignition off
2. Jump the CG and TC pins and leave them connected
3. Turn the ignition on
4. Watch the blinking of the SLIP and ABS lights
5. When the system is operating correctly, each light will blink continuously in a pattern of 0.25 seconds on, then 0.25 seconds off

When one DTC is output, each lamp will output the same code at 4 second intervals. (For example, Code 21 would be output as 2 flashes, a 1.5-second pause, and then 1 flash)

When 2 or more DTCs are output, each lamp will output a different code at 2.5-second intervals, and when all codes have been output, there will be a 4-second pause and the sequence will repeat

When multiple codes are set, they are output in order starting with the lowest DTC number

6. Turn the ignition off
7. Remove the jumper




To reset the DTCs

1. Turn the ignition off
2. Jump the CG and TC pins and leave them connected
3. Turn the ignition on
4. Clear the DTCs stored in the ECU by depressing the brake pedal 8 times or more within 5 seconds
5. Check that the warning light indicates a normal system code
6. Turn the ignition off
7. Remove the jumper

[Jamus]

Thanks so much. I found a similar outline in my searching, but it involved jumping the three connections in the picture. I'll go check it out now.

[Jamus]

I just checked the DTC like you said and I got a code 31 repeated for the slip light. I tried to clear the code but it wouldn't clear. I'm guessing either I didn't clear it correctly, or it's a problem that trips automatically, resetting that same code.

[CTScott]

I just checked the DTC like you said and I got a code 31 repeated for the slip light. I tried to clear the code but it wouldn't clear. I'm guessing either I didn't clear it correctly, or it's a problem that trips automatically, resetting that same code.

Code 31 is: Front Speed Sensor RH Malfunction

[Jamus]

RH is passenger side right? A few days ago I sprayed undercoating in the wheelwells but covered the rotor/caliper/hub with a plastic bag. Do you suppose I got undercoating on the sensor somehow? Either way I guess my next step is to pull the wheel off and check it out.

[CTScott]

RH is passenger side right? A few days ago I sprayed undercoating in the wheelwells but covered the rotor/caliper/hub with a plastic bag. Do you suppose I got undercoating on the sensor somehow? Either way I guess my next step is to pull the wheel off and check it out.

I doubt that you got the undercoating into where it would prevent the sensor from working correctly. I wonder if the bang that you heard was a rock that worked its way between the rotor and the dust cover and if that hurt the sensor.

It is the passenger side BTW.

[Jamus]

Got the sensor out and other than a little dirty grease on the end it looks fine. I see what you mean about it being hard for anything to get in there. I tried repeatedly to clear the codes and it won't clear. I've got the caliper off and bracket, but it's inside the wheel bearing I think, and I'm not interested in pulling all that. Do you know if there is a way to check the sensor itself, with a meter maybe? The car only has 16k miles on it so I assume this is covered under warranty. I just hate the hassle of going to the dealer. Also, I modified the car for cruise control with 2 push buttons. It never occurred to me, but that won't void any warranty will it? I have one last question, will it hurt to drive as it is now? I assume you just won't have ABS or traction control. Thanks again for all your quick and accurate help.

[CTScott]

Got the sensor out and other than a little dirty grease on the end it looks fine. I see what you mean about it being hard for anything to get in there. I tried repeatedly to clear the codes and it won't clear. I've got the caliper off and bracket, but it's inside the wheel bearing I think, and I'm not interested in pulling all that. Do you know if there is a way to check the sensor itself, with a meter maybe? The car only has 16k miles on it so I assume this is covered under warranty. I just hate the hassle of going to the dealer. Also, I modified the car for cruise control with 2 push buttons. It never occurred to me, but that won't void any warranty will it? I have one last question, will it hurt to drive as it is now? I assume you just won't have ABS or traction control. Thanks again for all your quick and accurate help.

Measure the resistance between the two pins. It should read about 1K ohms. If it measures as open, then the sensor is bad.

The DIY CC would not violate the warranty for the ABS, since you installing it would not have affected the ABS (unless of course they find that you damaged a wire related to the ABS system while installing it).

[Jamus]

Good to know about the warranty, I guess I'm always expecting the worst. I already put it back together because I have to drive it. I'll check the sensor tomorrow, though I didn't notice a harness. I must have missed it, but I followed the wire up the fender and into a larger loom in the engine compartment. One other odd thing. I looked into the sensor hole into the wheel bearing, where the sensor would ride is completely smooth all the way around. I thought it should be like older ABS systems with grooves for the sensor to count. Anyway, thanks again. I'll test the sensor tomorrow and report back.

[CTScott]

Good to know about the warranty, I guess I'm always expecting the worst. I already put it back together because I have to drive it. I'll check the sensor tomorrow, though I didn't notice a harness. I must have missed it, but I followed the wire up the fender and into a larger loom in the engine compartment. One other odd thing. I looked into the sensor hole into the wheel bearing, where the sensor would ride is completely smooth all the way around. I thought it should be like older ABS systems with grooves for the sensor to count. Anyway, thanks again. I'll test the sensor tomorrow and report back.

It's a hall effect sensor, so it is magnetically triggered.

[Jamus]

Sorry I never posted back. The sensor read just over 1k ohm, so I'm going to go in to the dealer while it's still under warranty, just haven't had time. It seems to work fine though, even in rain, though I'm a cautious driver. I'll post up what the dealer guys say when I get around to going. Thanks again for all the help.

[Pavementdancer]

Thanks for this! It helped me reset the system after I broke a wheel speed sensor.