Brake upgrades

[majorposer]

I can't seem to find a upgrade for the rear drums. i like the performance from the drums so far, but at a track it will need a different compound for more heat. so now aftermarket is one problem, and another problem is they are a pain to service, disc's are so much easier. anyone know of a kit?

[largeorangefont]

Get a JDM rear torsion beam with disks on it. That is about it currently.

[Moose]

Get a JDM rear torsion beam with disks on it. That is about it currently.

That's what I was thinking. For mostly daily driving, though, there are other ways to drastically improve braking without dumping $1000 into a new rear end.

For instance:
-upgraded pads for the front brakes
-stainless steel brake lines (the best upgrade, IMO)
-higher temperature brake fluid (I've had great results from Motul)
-upgraded master cylinder (back to that money thing, though)

Remember, you may actually lose braking power (and thus, take longer to stop) by switching to rear disc brakes- vehicles like ours do not have EBD, and the "old style" proportioning valves are set up for drums- you can get around this by swapping out the master cylinder and lines, as well- but, oh the $$$ you'll be spending! Drums are lighter, too, so there's less unsprung weight.

[Black Yaris]

I am currently working on a rear disc conversion, it will use parts you can get off the shelf from your local parts store, Well will a few adapter brackets I am going to make

[Moose]

I am currently working on a rear disc conversion, it will use parts you can get off the shelf from your local parts store, Well will a few adapter brackets I am going to make

Really? Please post it up when you're done!

[Black Yaris]

Oh I will, I will, and I plan on sellin the shit out of them!

[largeorangefont]

That's what I was thinking. For mostly daily driving, though, there are other ways to drastically improve braking without dumping $1000 into a new rear end.

For instance:
-upgraded pads for the front brakes
-stainless steel brake lines (the best upgrade, IMO)
-higher temperature brake fluid (I've had great results from Motul)
-upgraded master cylinder (back to that money thing, though)

Remember, you may actually lose braking power (and thus, take longer to stop) by switching to rear disc brakes- vehicles like ours do not have EBD, and the "old style" proportioning valves are set up for drums- you can get around this by swapping out the master cylinder and lines, as well- but, oh the $$$ you'll be spending! Drums are lighter, too, so there's less unsprung weight.

Agreed, except you forgot the most important braking mod. Better tires :)

I would do tires, then SS lines and fluid, and after that better pads if you need them.

The problem is there are no SS lines available yet. I will get them the day they come to market though.

The proportioning may be different with the rear disk setup (no idea if it is or not), so it may require the master cylinder to be swapped out as well to make it "correct". since the vas majority are non ABS it may be less critical, but still should not be overlooked.

[Black Yaris]

Agreed, except you forgot the most important braking mod. Better tires :)

I would do tires, then SS lines and fluid, and after that better pads if you need them.

The problem is there are no SS lines available yet. I will get them the day they come to market though.

The proportioning may be different with the rear disk setup (no idea if it is or not), so it may require the master cylinder to be swapped out as well to make it "correct". since the vas majority are non ABS it may be less critical, but still should not be overlooked.

Um, why change the master cylinder? there are these new things they have been using since god knows why called proportioning valves. All we would have to do is change that to get the proportioning, I am sure that would be a lot cheeper to get ahold of than a whole set up off a JDM Vitz

[ChinoCharles]

Getting the rear torsion beam from a JDM Vits is like saying "hey, lets swap an LT1 into the Yaris." Its never going to happen, so forget about it.

Shouldn't SS brake lines be a relatively easy part to make yourself? Braided line and some fittings at either end? Am I oversimplifying this?

[largeorangefont]

Um, why change the master cylinder? there are these new things they have been using since god knows why called proportioning valves. All we would have to do is change that to get the proportioning, I am sure that would be a lot cheeper to get ahold of than a whole set up off a JDM Vitz

Read Moose's post at the top of the thread. He is right.

I'm not sure if the rear disc cars use a different master cylinder. If they do there is probably a reason why. Running out of fluid to actuate your brakes is not something you want to do.

[largeorangefont]

Am I oversimplifying this?

Yes. An SS brakeline is not just the SS part. The braided SS is just a coating to keep the actual line inside protected and reinforced. Your life depends on the integrity of these lines. They aren't something you can buy in bulk, cut to length and add proper ends to.

Ashley

[Black Yaris]

THERE IS NO REASON TO CHANGE YOUR MASTER CYLINDER!!!! NONE! just for shits and gigles go to Napa, or autozone or what ever and ask for a price on a master cyinder on a.... lets say 00 grand am, it comes with either disc or drum in the rear and see if they even ask you, if they do, ask them to check if it is the same part #, and I will bet MY CAR it is the same part #.... and this i not the only case, I could continue on with about 99% of the rest of the vehicles on the road of you would like...

Do you think this is my first rear disc conversion?
I swapped my 93 s-10, I did change my proportion valve, but later found out I did not need to.

Back to the point, I am not going to be using 6 piston calipers for the rear brakes so it is not going to be using an un godly amount of fluid, and even it I was I would use a larger resivoir to hold more fluid to solve the problem, not get a new master cylinder

BTW I can read, "Read Moose's post at the top of the thread. He is right.
"
And I disagree, but we will see when I have the first Yaris in North America with rear disc brakes

[largeorangefont]

THERE IS NO REASON TO CHANGE YOUR MASTER CYLINDER!!!! NONE! just for shits and gigles go to Napa, or autozone or what ever and ask for a price on a master cyinder on a.... lets say 00 grand am, it comes with either disc or drum in the rear and see if they even ask you, if they do, ask them to check if it is the same part #, and I will bet MY CAR it is the same part #.... and this i not the only case, I could continue on with about 99% of the rest of the vehicles on the road of you would like...

Do you think this is my first rear disc conversion?
I swapped my 93 s-10, I did change my proportion valve, but later found out I did not need to.

Back to the point, I am not going to be using 6 piston calipers for the rear brakes so it is not going to be using an un godly amount of fluid, and even it I was I would use a larger resivoir to hold more fluid to solve the problem, not get a new master cylinder

BTW I can read, "Read Moose's post at the top of the thread. He is right.
"
And I disagree, but we will see when I have the first Yaris in North America with rear disc brakes


Relax. I never said you needed to change it. I said to check and see if it uses a different one. Odds are is does not but stranger things have happened. It could change pedal feel, response etc if each car had a different one. A larger reservior would not solve that problem.

Odds are it will be fine as is, but these are things to be aware of if it does not work right.

Do the canadian RS cars have rear disks?

[Black Yaris]

Do the canadian RS cars have rear disks?

That is a good question, and that would be an easy solution as well if it were true, good call

[OxyG3nE]

the rs here in canada dont have the rear disks

[largeorangefont]

the rs here in canada dont have the rear disks


:thumbdown:

[mojoyaris]

I was thinking of asking my gf's brother in Japan to send me the rear disc system from the RS. I think there are companies that are currently working on a Big brake system for the rear as well for the Yaris. They've done it for the Xb's and Xa's Why not our cars? I'm actually thinking of getting the mini BBK from JBT for now. I want that stopping power for those auto x's

[Black Yaris]

I was thinking of asking my gf's brother in Japan to send me the rear disc system from the RS. I think there are companies that are currently working on a Big brake system for the rear as well for the Yaris. They've done it for the Xb's and Xa's Why not our cars? I'm actually thinking of getting the mini BBK from JBT for now. I want that stopping power for those auto x's

I am working on addapting VW Jetta brakes to our car, there are tones of stuf stuff out there for those, I just want to mock up the standard parts first then get the good stuff

[mojoyaris]

cool

[ChinoCharles]

Hub conversion?

5 lug?

Any takers?

[brickhardmeat]

endless array of wheels

[majorposer]

4x100 is pretty popular. my other car has 5x100, and there isn't as much. isn't there a rear disc upgrade for the xa/xb?

[mojoyaris]

I hear that there may be a rear disc conversion by JBT, but not 100 percent sure. I'm getting the mini bbk system by JBT with 11 in rotors. I hear they pull pretty good and the 4 pot 13 in kit was just too large for the Yaris.
Weight is also a factor.

I guess I'll have to wait for that rear RS suspension from the junk yard in Japan.

[Vanderkitten]

I was thinking of the Jetta as well... aren't the MK2 GTI's a 4x100? Maybe even the MK3's? Not that I have time to tinker, but the Jetta has a really similar rear suspension set-up.

[Terrorize]

Hmm..my Yaris sedan has EBD apparently...how can i tell???
Up here in Canada..it was optional...but the package i chose supposedly has it...

That's what I was thinking. For mostly daily driving, though, there are other ways to drastically improve braking without dumping $1000 into a new rear end.

For instance:
-upgraded pads for the front brakes
-stainless steel brake lines (the best upgrade, IMO)
-higher temperature brake fluid (I've had great results from Motul)
-upgraded master cylinder (back to that money thing, though)

Remember, you may actually lose braking power (and thus, take longer to stop) by switching to rear disc brakes- vehicles like ours do not have EBD, and the "old style" proportioning valves are set up for drums- you can get around this by swapping out the master cylinder and lines, as well- but, oh the $$$ you'll be spending! Drums are lighter, too, so there's less unsprung weight.

[mojoyaris]

Still waiting for my brakes, JBT emailed me and I informed him that I'm getting them from him through my tuner guy in Richmond. In the meantime, I picked up a set of Megan gauges, header and oil catch tank.

So I figure they'll all be installed at the same time.
Hoping I get the call tomorrow for the install.
I also ordered two Falken 615's since the last autocross chewed out my front tires (pressure too low).
I'm also picking 4 Falken 615's from a friend who never really got to use them. I just need rims for them next.

[churp]

Disk brakes require a 2-4 pound residual pressure valve while drums require 7-9 pound----these are usually screwed into the master cylinder where the line comes out (take the lines off the master cyl, insert the proper tool in the hole, and take out the residual valve). The hot rod market can supply external residual valves and adjustable proportioning valves that can be put inline to cure any the rest of the problems. .....without changing the residual valves, adding disks to the rear, the rear disks will have too much pressure retained on them when you let off the brake and will warp all to hell, I know because my RX7 was converted before I bought it without changing the residual valve!!!!! The location of the residual valves isn't always in the master cylinder, so if anyone knows for sure, please post. The proportioning valve isn't always required but is a good idea.......you would have to spend time on a good cement/blacktop test area trial and error testing to get the proportioning valve (adjustable) to work correctly. Check the hot rod magazines/forums out, the oldschool guys have been doing this for years and lots of brake suppliers (at least hot rod) know a lot about this and make the custom parts.
Personal experience I haven't done this...so flame away. I have a parts RX7 that has 4 disks so I'm just switching master cylinders (easy way out). My 62 dart I switched from the single line master to a dual, while retaining my 4 drums, and it does matter if you put the drum-drum master or the disk-drum master in because of the residual valves.
:headbang:

If you have ABS you have another bag of worms.....this is for none ABS.

[Vanderkitten]

These are by no means a bolt on, but an SCCA Miata buddy of mine said the mid-80's BMW M3 rear discs are 4x100, and the hot set-up for Miata swaps and thought it would be something worth investigating for the Yaris.

The other idea was the Mini Cooper since they are also 4x100 and have 4 wheels discs.

When I can find time, we're going to look into it further.