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markitect
06-18-2013, 04:11 PM
Last weekend I replaced the Automatic Transmission Fluid in my 2009 Yaris. I know it is supposed to last the life of my car, but I replaced it at 64k miles, and I'm glad I did.

Symptoms:

When sitting in drive, with break pressed in traffic, the car would shake and make a pattering noise(switching to neutral stopped the shake).
Occasional long shift into 4th gear.
Fluid dropped from stick onto paper towel looked smokey(did not smell bad).


Cause:
Probably something to do with HPDEs and Autocross(constant redlining

Parts:

8qt of Toyota WS ATF
Wix filter/gasket kit.

Tools:

10mm allen wrench
ATF fluid funnel
Oil change pan, with a LARGE opening.
metric socket(forget the size, maybe 10mm)


Procedure

Run through all the gears while stationary a few times
Drive the Crap out of it for 10 min, inluding flooring it on the highway to get to speed, and randomly hitting the gas until it downshifts at speed.(Obey the speed limit)
Run through the gears while stationary again
Find the Drain Plug, it's 10mm allen plug on the driver's side near the wheel
Line up the pan
Open the drain, and expect HOT fluid all over your hand/wrench.
Let it Drain for 10min
Tighten the plug back down
Add about 2.3 qt of fluid, and check the level adding more as needed.
Repeat Steps 1-9(now you've used 4.6 qt of fluid)
Repeat Steps 1-6
Let it sit for 30min to cool off while dripping
Put the drain plug back in and tighten it up, and remove your drain pan.
Put some newspaper down under the pan
Use a socket to remove all the bolts around the pan(you will need to flex the plastic undertray a bit.
The pan will come off, move it to more newspaper(yes you can see wires and gizmos inside your transmission)
Now remove 3 bolts from the filter, and discard it.
Put the o-ring on the new filter and install it, with the 3 bolts(the transmission will probably still be dripping)
Clean the Pan, including the 2 magnets with paper towel.
Reinstall the pan with the new gasket supplied, you might want to use some adhesive to temporarily hold the gasket on.
Don't over tighten the pan bolts.
Wipe everything down so you can watch for leaks
Add 3 Qt of ATF Fluid(You've now used up 7.6 Qts, and have some to spare to top off).
Check the level and add more until it is full(I waited for the car to cool off overnight and used the cool markings on the dip stick)
Make sure no fluid had leaked out.


Results:
No more shaking, and it shifts like a dream

yougojay
06-18-2013, 08:41 PM
Thanks for taking the time to post this DIY for a Trans. Fluid & Filter change - Very precise and well thought out. Draining & running new fluid through it twice before a final fill with the new filter and pan gasket must have made a BIG difference. It'll be a long time before I'll be doing this (I'm at 1,640 miles!) But I will most definitely do it down the road. Haven't done one of these in awhile, but it is easy and your instructions are fantastic for someone who wants to do this for the first time on their Yaris.

I did this transmission service on my 1972 Chevelle Convt. back in the 80's - so easy & so rewarding :smile:

macz100
07-14-2013, 12:10 PM
thanks for --> DIY for a Trans. Fluid & Filter change.
my '09 HB AT 71K , has no tranny issues but plan on keeping it for a while longer . will follow your easy instructions this fall.
Q' , how much do you torque the 3 bolts to the transmission filter.?

markitect
07-15-2013, 02:58 PM
The manual says 8 ft*lb, for the filter, and 5.75 for pan. I just did it by feel from removing them.

towbusiness
12-05-2013, 03:05 PM
ATP brand filter & gasket box indicates 100-120 Inch Pounds

jack black
01-02-2014, 02:38 AM
Last weekend I replaced the Automatic Transmission Fluid in my 2009 Yaris. I know it is supposed to last the life of my car, but I replaced it at 64k miles, and I'm glad I did.

Symptoms:

When sitting in drive, with break pressed in traffic, the car would shake and make a pattering noise(switching to neutral stopped the shake).
Occasional long shift into 4th gear.
Fluid dropped from stick onto paper towel looked smokey(did not smell bad).


Cause:
Probably something to do with HPDEs and Autocross(constant redlining

Parts:

8qt of Toyota WS ATF
Wix filter/gasket kit.

Tools:

10mm allen wrench
ATF fluid funnel
Oil change pan, with a LARGE opening.
metric socket(forget the size, maybe 10mm)


Procedure

Run through all the gears while stationary a few times
Drive the Crap out of it for 10 min, inluding flooring it on the highway to get to speed, and randomly hitting the gas until it downshifts at speed.(Obey the speed limit)
Run through the gears while stationary again
Find the Drain Plug, it's 10mm allen plug on the driver's side near the wheel
Line up the pan
Open the drain, and expect HOT fluid all over your hand/wrench.
Let it Drain for 10min
Tighten the plug back down
Add about 2.3 qt of fluid, and check the level adding more as needed.
Repeat Steps 1-9(now you've used 4.6 qt of fluid)
Repeat Steps 1-6
Let it sit for 30min to cool off while dripping
Put the drain plug back in and tighten it up, and remove your drain pan.
Put some newspaper down under the pan
Use a socket to remove all the bolts around the pan(you will need to flex the plastic undertray a bit.
The pan will come off, move it to more newspaper(yes you can see wires and gizmos inside your transmission)
Now remove 3 bolts from the filter, and discard it.
Put the o-ring on the new filter and install it, with the 3 bolts(the transmission will probably still be dripping)
Clean the Pan, including the 2 magnets with paper towel.
Reinstall the pan with the new gasket supplied, you might want to use some adhesive to temporarily hold the gasket on.
Don't over tighten the pan bolts.
Wipe everything down so you can watch for leaks
Add 3 Qt of ATF Fluid(You've now used up 7.6 Qts, and have some to spare to top off).
Check the level and add more until it is full(I waited for the car to cool off overnight and used the cool markings on the dip stick)
Make sure no fluid had leaked out.


Results:
No more shaking, and it shifts like a dream

Thanks for the writeup!
A question. How close is the filter to the pan? The reason I ask is the previous owner put a bump in the pan, up to 5mm in one spot. I'm trying to decide if I need to replace the pan while doing the ATF service.

jack black
01-02-2014, 11:10 PM
Update:
I pulled the AT pan today. There was no need to replace the pan. Cosmetic damage only. I replaced the filter in the process. The filter is real, not just steel mesh that can be cleaned and reused.
The surprises:
The job was harder than I thought it would be due to low clearance and that hard plastic under engine protection that is partially in the way.
Full gallon of ATF drained. More than I expected based on reading the forum here.
The ATF, pan, and magnets were cleaner than I expected at 66,000 miles. I see that WS is the real deal and I think 100,000 miles is doable before first service.