Any Other Front Strut Compatible

[racerb]

As it says, does anyone know of an interchangeable front strut from possibly another Toyota model or another make to fit our Yaris?? I'm waiting on my replacement struts, but thinking long term in that I'm considering building my own struts if another off the shelf unit doesn't work. Before you ask, I've built my own race struts and coil-overs for years and I know their are plenty out there right off the shelf, but look more for rebuild ability!!

Here is what I've built for my Celica project and it takes 4, one at ever corner....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/racerb/GTS%20Race%20Mods/455.jpg

Even built my own rear camber plates.....
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/racerb/media/GTS%20Race%20Mods/454-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=62


racerb :iono:

[xnamerxx]

My Bilsteins use a standard 46mm cartridge, which I believe Koni universals fit into. I imagine you could buy megan lowers and put whatever cartridge inside if you'd like.

[racerb]

My first choice will be to likely use a standard strut housing and convert to coil-overs and with my love of Koni shocks, will probably use their inserts. Koni offers a range of race quality inserts, you just pick your length, diameter, and stroke. I was just wonder if there was already another Toyota model with possibly stronger and/or lower hub mounts for better suspension geometry.

Here are a few of Koni's choices......
http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/koni-8611-series-double-adjustable-race-strut-inserts

racerb :confused:

[xnamerxx]

Its Mcpherson so geometry is gonna suck no matter what you do. The only real problem with the Yaris geometry is that there is almost no camber gain, its something like .1* per inch, which is bad but we make up for it with lots of caster gain, and lots of caster. Changing the hub mounts doesn't really do anything unless you can change the pickup point on the hub itself giving different toe change characteristics which is the biggest weakness of this suspension. Big changes in camber result in big changes in toe not really ideal.

[racerb]

What I'm trying most to avoid is a lower control arm pointing upward when suspension is compressed. That's why I'm looking for a housing with the hub attachment point slightly higher up the tube, gives greater travel with less risk of bottoming. I know it sounds odd, but when I build any race suspension I go with my gut and/or butt more than gauges. If a car make me feel comfortable when driving it, then I'm usually fast in that car. Oh yeah and I like building it myself, it started back in my BMX and Skateboard days, always bought in pieces and built it my way!!

racerb