Tooter manifold / Corolla TB / DC Header / etc....

[3cyltrbo]

-Tooter Manifold
-Corolla Throttle Body
-Coolant Bypass (Throttle Body)
-65 Deg Thermostat
-DC sports header

And the end result is that it feels like I've LOST 10-15hp ?????????????? (instead of having gained 10hp which is what I was expecting)


I was expecting to awaken a monster
I was expecting more noise
I was expecting some added power in the top end

:confused:

Instead …………..

It feels like I'm driving around with AirConditioning on (I don't even have AC) with 3 passengers in the car (when in fact I've actually taken a bunch of weight OUT of the car)

I'm at a total loss.

:iono:

If this is the way its gonna drive, I'll switch it all back to stock. :bonk:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/3cyltrbo/DSC_0970.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/3cyltrbo/media/DSC_0970.jpg.html)

[CTScott]

Did you disconnect the battery after installing the throttle body to reset the fuel trims?

Did you per chance install each thing separately, where you could see the difference with each part?

If not, I would suggest reversing the process one by one, starting with reverting to the stock throttle body.

[47_MasoN_47]

+1 for disconnecting the battery. Garm always said let the car sit for 10 minutes with the battery disconnected to reset it.

[fnkngrv]

Just seems like a lot of expense and work IMHO to free up 10HP. As previously stated, with today's intelligent ECMs you must force it to relearn. That being said I would be curious to know if the effect would stay permanent or not. The Yaris ECM is as freak of nature and designed by some pretty intelligent folks to not allow you to fool it.

[Golddeenoh]

it is still a learning computer that establishes fuel trims based on driving (short term and long term fuel trims) and once you remove the battery long enough for the capacitors in the ECM to drain down, then the ECM has to relearn your driving style and reestablish new long and short term fuel trims. if you drive it like an old lady after the relearn it will try and drive/run that way every time you drive, if you drive like you can't burn the fuel out of it fast enough it will try to drive/run like that every time you drive. some manufactures even have a specific driving cycle that has to be done after the ECM is reset in order to reestablish the fuel trims and throttle position.


clear the learned memory and drive it cautiously until warmed up then like you want to drive it after that.

[3cyltrbo]

The battery was disconnected through the entire upgrade process (the battery was actually one of the things that I upgraded)

And it has been disconnected since the install of the engine stuff as well (I've been working on the headlights and audio after doing the intake and TB, so I've had other occasion to disconnect the battery)

Its also worth mentioning that I don't have any seemingly bad side-effects other than a super high idle when the car is cold (first thing in the morning). Other than the high idle, everything seems "okay" (other than the fact that I think I've lost 10hp)

Will

[cali yaris]

And the end result is that it feels like I've LOST 10-15hp ?????????????? (instead of having gained 10hp which is what I was expecting)

Tooter's dyno chart showed losses through some of the power band.

[mazilla]

How's the top end, you notice any change on the freeway?

[47_MasoN_47]

It does take a little while for the car to figure things out too. Generally it seems like mine figures things out after about 30 miles or so. While I was doing my projector install I disconnected the battery, when I first cranked the car it was running super rich (1zz injectors) and idling weird. Driving it around for the first little while it was like it had forgotten how to act. It cleared up after driving it for a couple of days and its back to how it was now.

[1.5]

Tooter's dyno chart showed losses through some of the power band.

This ^^

thats where your loss is from... go with the MI/GE one

[47_MasoN_47]

This ^^

thats where your loss is from... go with the MI/GE one

Or just Blitz it :) I've been extremely pleased with mine.

[1.5]

or that lol ^

[cali yaris]

yeah THAT. :biggrin:

[3cyltrbo]

This ^^

thats where your loss is from... go with the MI/GE one

if I remember they were marginal losses, and that was without a 1zz TB.

Nothing like what I'm feeling / and not all where I'm feeling it either (I'm also feeling a lack of top end (not that it was a screamer before) )

As per the other comments, like I've said the car has had many opportunities to re-learn (instances of the battery being disconnected etc...)

Will

[3cyltrbo]

yeah THAT. :biggrin:

I would never ever ever pay retail for a Blitz. Everytime one comes up used, its either Sketchy or its super cheap ($1500 -$1800 range) and it sells before I know its for sale.

I'm actually thinking more along the lines of K20A

Will

[cali yaris]

I think that was meant playfully, not as a real suggestion. At least I meant it that way. Sorry to confuse the issue.

if I remember they were marginal losses, and that was without a 1zz TB. Nothing like what I'm feeling / and not all where I'm feeling it either (I'm also feeling a lack of top end (not that it was a screamer before) )

Hey, you asked. I gave my opinion. Even a marginal loss is not a gain. Possible vacuum leak somewhere, maybe? Have you checked all the connections and listened for leaks?

You might try going back to a stock TB and see if that cleans it up at all. Our manifold accepts either throttle body, I'm not sure about the Tooter.

Remember, you've changed two or more things at once. It's best to change one thing at a time to see what the result is.

[tooter]

The battery was disconnected through the entire upgrade process (the battery was actually one of the things that I upgraded)

And it has been disconnected since the install of the engine stuff as well (I've been working on the headlights and audio after doing the intake and TB, so I've had other occasion to disconnect the battery)

Its also worth mentioning that I don't have any seemingly bad side-effects other than a super high idle when the car is cold (first thing in the morning). Other than the high idle, everything seems "okay" (other than the fact that I think I've lost 10hp)

Will

Hey Will, :smile:

I have a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If you don't like the tooter, send it back to me and I'll refund your money, You'll only be out the return shipping cost. Then you can buy Garm's manifold if you think it will solve your problems.

Personally I think that something else is wrong, but that's not for me to figure out. So just send it back for an immediate full refund. :thumbsup:

Greg

[tooter]

You might try going back to a stock TB and see if that cleans it up at all. Our manifold accepts either throttle body, I'm not sure about the Tooter.

I am. It works with both throttle bodies. :smile:

[1.5]

Wow at least he offers good customer service ^^

[Jason@SportsCar]

-Tooter Manifold
-Corolla Throttle Body
-Coolant Bypass (Throttle Body)
-65 Deg Thermostat
-DC sports header

And the end result is that it feels like I've LOST 10-15hp ?????????????? (instead of having gained 10hp which is what I was expecting)


I was expecting to awaken a monster
I was expecting more noise
I was expecting some added power in the top end

:confused:

Instead …………..

It feels like I'm driving around with AirConditioning on (I don't even have AC) with 3 passengers in the car (when in fact I've actually taken a bunch of weight OUT of the car)

I'm at a total loss.

:iono:

If this is the way its gonna drive, I'll switch it all back to stock. :bonk:



I would ditch that thermostat, that is way to cold, no reason at all for that on a street car - much less in the great white north. The ECU is probably dumping fuel in there in an effort to get the temp to what it thinks is normal, rich does not make power.

[JustDidIt]

Hey Will, :smile:

I have a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If you don't like the tooter, send it back to me and I'll refund your money, You'll only be out the return shipping cost. Then you can buy Garm's manifold if you think it will solve your problems.

Personally I think that something else is wrong, but that's not for me to figure out. So just send it back for an immediate full refund. :thumbsup:

Greg

^^Awesome Customer Service!

But I wouldn't jump ship just yet, try some of the solutions offered. I'm no tuner but something is telling you that your not running optimal A/F ratio. Just swapping out the intake, I highly doubt, will solve your issues. I'd at least try the below solution:

Did you disconnect the battery after installing the throttle body to reset the fuel trims?

Did you per chance install each thing separately, where you could see the difference with each part?

If not, I would suggest reversing the process one by one, starting with reverting to the stock throttle body.

or

I would ditch that thermostat, that is way to cold, no reason at all for that on a street car - much less in the great white north. The ECU is probably dumping fuel in there in an effort to get the temp to what it thinks is normal, rich does not make power.

...

thats where your loss is from... go with the MI/GE one

LOL... you must be some expert to come to that conclusion... so quickly. Sponsored much?

[47_MasoN_47]

I think that was meant playfully, not as a real suggestion. At least I meant it that way.

lol yeah I was merely jesting. I mean, yeah you'd get power haha, but I know most people don't want to dump 33% of the cost of the car into a supercharger.

[1.5]

LOL... you must be some expert to come to that conclusion... so quickly. Sponsored much?[/QUOTE]


nah just a huge supporter.

[cali yaris]

^ He is not sponsored by us, if that was the implication.

[3cyltrbo]

I would ditch that thermostat, that is way to cold, no reason at all for that on a street car - much less in the great white north. The ECU is probably dumping fuel in there in an effort to get the temp to what it thinks is normal, rich does not make power.

- Its never driven in the Winter

- Its only driven in summer (when our average temps are probably as high or higher (with humidex) than Sunny (dry) California and southern States.

- I've been keeping tabs on Intake Air Temp / Water Temp / Air-Fuel (among other things) and none of them have seemed wonky, but I'll go back and pay attention to the AF ratio while doing "pulls"

Will

[47_MasoN_47]

It gets 100+ with 60-80% humidity around here :P I sortof doubt it gets that hot up there.

I just use whatever thermostat came in the car and it works fine with boost and all the other junk I've got.

[3cyltrbo]

Possible vacuum leak somewhere, maybe? Have you checked all the connections and listened for leaks?

You might try going back to a stock TB and see if that cleans it up at all. Our manifold accepts either throttle body, I'm not sure about the Tooter.

Remember, you've changed two or more things at once. It's best to change one thing at a time to see what the result is.

I have listened (my family calls me Miracle ears), and to the best of what I hear there weren't any leaks.

Of the areas where there could be a leak (below) they all seemed fine.

-Intake manifold to Head = check
-Throttle body to Intake manifold = check
-Intake piping = check
-Brake booster vacuum line = check (factory line)
-Evap system vacuum line = check (factory line)
-CrankCase vacuum line = check (exact specs as factory, only 1 inch longer)
-CrankCase fresh air line = check (breather)

-Exhaust Manifold to Head = Check
-Exhaust Manifold to downpipe = Check
-O2 sensor = check

I might start with just swapping back the OEM TB (Like many have suggested) and go from there................

[3cyltrbo]

It gets 100+ with 60-80% humidity around here :P I sortof doubt it gets that hot up there.




not to go too far off topic.............

Its funny that people think of Canada as the land of Igloos.

here in Ottawa (capital of all Igloos) its currently 78 F which is unusually cool for this time of year.

All through July we were mostly in the 90's, with many days in the 100+ range.

Admittedly our Winters are colder, but our summers are the 60deg F that people imagine they might be.

[Jason@SportsCar]

You would be surprised at how a thermostat can put a car out of whack... This past weekend I helped my neighbor install a thermostat in his work van. It failed emissions, when he got the ECU scanned by a GM tech it was stuck in open loop mode, and would not get above 150f - which is about the temp of that unit you put it. In his case when he had the radiator replaced a few months back some knuckle head cut the core out of the thermostat (no idea why, could have been stuck), we put a new stock one in and now it passes smog. :thumbsup:

I run a cooler unit, because we run a 30-40 min race and spin over 7000rpm, but I have complete control of my fuel via my AEM ecu.

On a road going car with a stock ECU you have done nothing but fatten up the mixture. No upside.

[tooter]

Wow at least he offers good customer service ^^

I do whatever satisfies the customer. :smile:
It's no problem for me to simply bead blast it again and sell it to someone else. I know that there's nothing wrong with the manifold because I've been running a tooter for over a year and 6,000 miles and it works great.

Jason mentioned the low temp thermostat, and I agree. I'd try removing that first because my guess is that it's screwing up the ECU which stays in "choke" rich mixture mode constantly waiting for the engine to warm up.

[Viperoni]

Every few years or so, we get a day where we hit 120f with humidex, but that's rare.
Usually we'll get 5-10 days of 110f temps with humidex every summer.
3 weeks ago or so we had 5 days straight of 113f with humidity, it was nasty outside.


OP, as for the issue at hand, the main question is, when did the problem actually start happening? Or did you do all the mods at the same time?

[3cyltrbo]

You would be surprised at how a thermostat can put a car out of whack... This past weekend I helped my neighbor install a thermostat in his work van. It failed emissions, when he got the ECU scanned by a GM tech it was stuck in open loop mode, and would not get above 150f - which is about the temp of that unit you put it. In his case when he had the radiator replaced a few months back some knuckle head cut the core out of the thermostat (no idea why, could have been stuck), we put a new stock one in and now it passes smog. :thumbsup:

I run a cooler unit, because we run a 30-40 min race and spin over 7000rpm, but I have complete control of my fuel via my AEM ecu.

On a road going car with a stock ECU you have done nothing but fatten up the mixture. No upside.

Its an easy enough swap (the thermostat) except for having to replace the leaked coolant - so I think I'll try swapping it back.

That and the TB swap are the easiest.

When I get some time this weekend I'll first try the TB and then the Thermostat.

Will

[3cyltrbo]

Every few years or so, we get a day where we hit 120f with humidex, but that's rare.
Usually we'll get 5-10 days of 110f temps with humidex every summer.
3 weeks ago or so we had 5 days straight of 113f with humidity, it was nasty outside. ?

+1

OP, as for the issue at hand, the main question is, when did the problem actually start happening? Or did you do all the mods at the same time?

I'm generally a pretty positive and optimistic dude when it comes to mods and the stuff that I read on the internets (YarisWorld etc..) (ie: "the web") so I honestly didn't expect any problem at all with any of the mods and hence I installed everything at once (header / Intake / TB / T stat / Silicone hoses etc...)

In actuality here were the problems I encountered:

-ARP exhaust manifold/head studs wouldn't install in the two outer locations (where the factory studs were (so right now for the DC Header I'm running the inner 3 head studs from ARP and the outer two head studs are factory)

-The Red Silicone rad hose from the head to the rad cap housing,..... doesn't fit the housing (its too big around) ( I notice in other peoples install pics they aren't running that hose and it makes sense why)

-The DC Sports header debacle with the O2 sensor bung being too close to one of the downpipe bolts

-The "Odyssey" battery (Sears Diehard Platinum) although a "standard" 35 size is actually marginally taller than the factory battery and therefore is a VERY tight squeeze for both the factory battery bracket and clearance to the Ultra Racing strut brace.

-I also had to fabricate my own Crankcase vacuum line because the Intake manifold side wouldn't fit the Tooter nipple(too small) (although the nipple for the EVAP vacuum and the Brake booster, both fit perfectly)

then of course I also forgot to re-connect the wiper motor so I had to tear the cowl off a second time to re-connect the plug.

Will

[CTScott]

Its an easy enough swap (the thermostat) except for having to replace the leaked coolant - so I think I'll try swapping it back.

That and the TB swap are the easiest.

When I get some time this weekend I'll first try the TB and then the Thermostat.

Will

Based on Jason's expertise, I would do the thermostat first. As a quick and dirty test today, drive it and see if the green coolant light goes off. If it stays on and green, then you are in "cold start" mode. If it goes out, then the thermostat is likely not the issue.

[cali yaris]

-ARP exhaust manifold/head studs wouldn't install in the two outer locations

Why not?

[47_MasoN_47]

That cold mode does a lot of weird things to the motor. I made a video a while back about how my boost behaves differently when the engine is cold.

[3cyltrbo]

Based on Jason's expertise, I would do the thermostat first. As a quick and dirty test today, drive it and see if the green coolant light goes off. If it stays on and green, then you are in "cold start" mode. If it goes out, then the thermostat is likely not the issue.

Green coolant light???

um????

I think I have a blue???? light when the engine is cold, but it goes out almost instantly in the summer, and only stays on briefly in the fall and spring.

I actually know the exact water temps because I've been driving around staring at my Scan Guage. ............................???

[CTScott]

Green coolant light???

um????

I think I have a blue???? light when the engine is cold, but it goes out almost instantly in the summer, and only stays on briefly in the fall and spring.

I actually know the exact water temps because I've been driving around staring at my Scan Guage. ............................???

OK. On the Canadian clusters it must be different. On the US ones we have a little green indicator. Mine takes about 1/2 mile from my house to go out.

What are you seeing for temps? Normally the Yaris will sit in the low to mid 180's F when cruising.

[3cyltrbo]

Why not?

:iono:

Dunno, ..............It was crazy. None of the 5 ARP studs would fit into the two outer holes, they refused to thread into the holes.

At first I thought it was maybe just one bad ARP stud / or one of the outer holes was cross threaded?????

:iono:

NOPE

-None of the 5 ARP studs would thread into either of the outer holes, but they all would easily thread into the 3 inner holes

-All of the OEM hardware (studs or bolts) easily threads into the outer holes (as well as the 3 inner holes)

So.........................right now I have 3 ARP head studs in the inner locations (where the bolts were) .............and the factory OEM studs in the outer locations (but with the ARP nuts) and then of course, 2 unused very expensive ARP studs in a bag in my tool box. :cry:

[3cyltrbo]

OK. On the Canadian clusters it must be different. On the US ones we have a little green indicator. Mine takes about 1/2 mile from my house to go out.

What are you seeing for temps? Normally the Yaris will sit in the low to mid 180's F when cruising.


I'll take my toy (The Yaris) for a drive tonight and pay attention to both the color of the light (when the car starts) and the water temp (in deg F)

Will

[Kaotic Lazagna]

I'll take my toy (The Yaris) for a drive tonight and pay attention to both the color of the light (when the car starts) and the water temp (in deg F)

Will

For my car on the freeway, my coolant runs between 179-184*. City driving goes from 180-190's. Parking lot goes up to 202, or around there where the fan kicks in. lol

[Viperoni]

It's blue on my Canadian Echo, takes a minute or two to turn off in the summer time. Never saw it turn red, even at lower speed road courses.

[tooter]

Hey Will,

Has anything changed with the stock temprature thermostat?

Greg

[3cyltrbo]

Hey Will,

Has anything changed with the stock temprature thermostat?

Greg

Haven't swapped it yet.

Just picked up extra coolant on Friday night (some is always lost when changing a T Stat) and then was busy with other crap all weekend.

I'm booked the next few nights after work, so the first free opportunity is probably Friday night (to swap back to stock T Stat and then after that maybe also try the stock TB)

W

[3cyltrbo]

OK. On the Canadian clusters it must be different. On the US ones we have a little green indicator. Mine takes about 1/2 mile from my house to go out.

You were RIGHT (sorry my bad) the light IS GREEN, but at this time of year it is almost never ever on when I first start the car (even after its been sitting for days which is usually the case)


What are you seeing for temps? Normally the Yaris will sit in the low to mid 180's F when cruising.

I drove it briefly yesterday and I was seeing temps in the 140 - 175 range when cruising (outside temperature was approx 91)

[tooter]

I drove it briefly yesterday and I was seeing temps in the 140 - 175 range when cruising (outside temperature was approx 91)

Those temps are in engine warm up territory so the ECU will still be supplying a rich fuel mix. I'm not certain, but there's a chance that the timing parameters during the warm up cycle might also be different.

Be sure to let me know what happens, because if you're not satisfied, you get your money back. :smile:

Greg

[CTScott]

Those temps are in engine warm up territory so the ECU will still be supplying a rich fuel mix. I'm not certain, but there's a chance that the timing parameters during the warm up cycle might also be different.

Be sure to let me know what happens, because if you're not satisfied, you get your money back. :smile:

Greg

167F to 212F is considered normal (post warm-up) operating temperature to the ECM. Below that is the "cold start mode"

Once the engine gets past the cold start range, the coolant temperature is still used for camshaft timing control:

"Camshaft timing control is performed according to engine operating conditions such as the intake air volume, throttle valve position and engine coolant temperature."

So, I still think that Jason's take on the performance thermostat being the culprit has merit.

[cali yaris]

At 175, I can't imagine it's in cold start mode. Is the OP losing power at that full temp reading?

[CTScott]

At 175, I can't imagine it's in cold start mode. Is the OP losing power at that full temp reading?

175 is over the cold start mode, but he said cruising that he was seeing 140 to 175. If in motion it stays down to the 140 mode, it will run more like the cold mode.

[3cyltrbo]

If I have the time tonight I'll take it out for a drive and try to get some #'s

At this point its looking like the soonest I can swap the T-Stat is Friday night or Saturday afternoon. :frown:

Will

[cali yaris]

It's ok. We'll wait. We gave Astroman over eight months. You're good.

[Golddeenoh]

It's ok. We'll wait. We gave Astroman over eight months. You're good.

awe, why you got to bring that up :rolleyes:

[Bluevitz-rs]

For my car on the freeway, my coolant runs between 179-184*. City driving goes from 180-190's. Parking lot goes up to 202, or around there where the fan kicks in. lol

x2

[3cyltrbo]

It's ok. We'll wait. We gave Astroman over eight months. You're good.

LOLZ

[3cyltrbo]

here is my datalogging?

outside air temperature was freakishly cold outside for this time of year
(15deg c / 59deg F) (during this trip the coolant temp never went above 63, but like I said it was freakishly cold for an Ottawa Summer day)

Driving water temp ( 61 deg c / 142 deg F) (85km/h - 53mph) (flat land / zero wind)

Intake air temp(while moving) ( 21 deg c / 69 deg F)
Intake air temp (stopped in traffic) (26 deg c / 79 deg F)


Driving pic (it was freakishly cold out)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/3cyltrbo/IMG-20130814-00420.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/3cyltrbo/media/IMG-20130814-00420.jpg.html)

In Light traffic (stopped for 1 minute, every 2 or 3 minutes)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/3cyltrbo/IMG-20130814-00424.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/3cyltrbo/media/IMG-20130814-00424.jpg.html)

[BEEF]

I think my "cold" coolant light goes off at 135°F so you aren't running much warmer than that.

I always thought that a performance T-stat was hotter (not colder). I know back in my dodge truck days, guys would put a 195°F T-stat in place of the 180. I honestly don't think it does much.

[cali yaris]

^ Maybe, but if he eliminates that as a cause by swapping back to stock, we can move on to the next possibility. Or, that IS the problem.

[CTScott]

I would say that IS likely the problem. 142 F is still well within the pre-warmed-up temperature range.

It was 55F here this morning when I drove my kids less than 2 miles to the camp bus and by the end of mile 1 (mostly downhill) I was at 181F.

[3cyltrbo]

Next step = remove the colder thermostat - take some driving impressions and datalog the info.

It won't be 8 months (or never) ala "something big is coming", but it will have to wait till Friday night or the weekend because I'm busy tonight and tomorrow night.

Then, after the thermostat, if there isn't an improvement - the next thing will be to remove the Corolla TB (swap back to Stock tb on the Tooter) / then I guess the next thing after that will be the Factory Manifold etc...etc......

Only good thing about this process is that now I've done each part so recently that they stick in memory and therefore are pretty quick and easy to swap.

[tooter]

I would say that IS likely the problem. 142 F is still well within the pre-warmed-up temperature range.

It was 55F here this morning when I drove my kids less than 2 miles to the camp bus and by the end of mile 1 (mostly downhill) I was at 181F.

That's the prime directive for modern vehicle engines. Super quick warm up to operating temperature so as to meet government mandated emissions requirements. In warm California, my green light goes out before I get to the end of the driveway.

[BEEF]

Sorry, I meant that increasing the temp probably doesn't help power. I actually agree that his car may be in a limp mode state given that he is probably running open loop and thus on a predetermined fuel map (really rich).

I am curious to see if changing the T-stat back fixes it.

[3cyltrbo]

Sorry, I meant that increasing the temp probably doesn't help power. I actually agree that his car may be in a limp mode state given that he is probably running open loop and thus on a predetermined fuel map (really rich).

I am curious to see if changing the T-stat back fixes it.

Curiously on the drive home last night it was much warmer outside, and the car was running "normal"(ish) temps in the 170-180 range at times and yet it was driving the exact same.

Looks like I'm taking the day off work tomorrow to stay home and try to get to the bottom of this

Will

[3cyltrbo]

Curiously on the drive home last night it was much warmer outside, and the car was running "normal"(ish) temps in the 170-180 range at times and yet it was driving the exact same.

Looks like I'm taking the day off work tomorrow to stay home and try to get to the bottom of this

Will

I swapped the thermostat back to stock.

Sure enough the temps came way up (seems so weird to see temps in the 180 deg F range consistently)

The car behaves a bit better (the idle isn't as erratic) but otherwise its no faster or slower (feels the exact same)

Next step is to swap the TB and then the intake manifold.

Stay tuned.

Will

[cali yaris]

normal temps, same behavior -- thermostat eliminated as the cause. :thumbsup:

[tooter]

I swapped the thermostat back to stock.

Sure enough the temps came way up (seems so weird to see temps in the 180 deg F range consistently)

The car behaves a bit better (the idle isn't as erratic) but otherwise its no faster or slower (feels the exact same)

Next step is to swap the TB and then the intake manifold.

Stay tuned.

Will

Don't forget to disconnect the battery cable so that the ECU can relearn the new operating parameters with the stock thermostat. :smile:

[JustDidIt]

Don't forget to disconnect the battery cable so that the ECU can relearn the new operating parameters with the stock thermostat. :smile:

The battery was disconnected through the entire upgrade process (the battery was actually one of the things that I upgraded)

And it has been disconnected since the install of the engine stuff as well (I've been working on the headlights and audio after doing the intake and TB, so I've had other occasion to disconnect the battery)

Its also worth mentioning that I don't have any seemingly bad side-effects other than a super high idle when the car is cold (first thing in the morning). Other than the high idle, everything seems "okay" (other than the fact that I think I've lost 10hp)

Will

Looks like he already did. Wouldn't hurt to try again tho.

[tooter]

Looks like he already did. Wouldn't hurt to try again tho.

I believe that quote is two weeks old and refers to when Will first installed everything including the low temp thermostat.

[cali yaris]

is it done yet?

[3cyltrbo]

is it done yet?


No

I've been swamped with other stuff and I've only driven the car twice in the last week and a half (let alone have time to work on it)

Right now its just sitting in the garage (where it is most of the time) waiting for some more investigation work.

Like I did with the Thermostat several weeks back..................I've taken this Friday off so that hopefully I can swap the Throttle body and then the Intake manifold and see whats going on.

I'm also thinking of maybe getting the exact header that Tooter has, and also installing my exhaust (have full exhaust just waiting to be installed). That way when I go and Dyno it, I should have a pretty good comparison against Tooter because I'd have almost the identical setup at that point (plus lighter wheels and a pulley's)

I'll of course update when I swap the T-Body etc.....

[tooter]

No

I've been swamped with other stuff and I've only driven the car twice in the last week and a half (let alone have time to work on it)

Right now its just sitting in the garage (where it is most of the time) waiting for some more investigation work.

Like I did with the Thermostat several weeks back..................I've taken this Friday off so that hopefully I can swap the Throttle body and then the Intake manifold and see whats going on.

I'm also thinking of maybe getting the exact header that Tooter has, and also installing my exhaust (have full exhaust just waiting to be installed). That way when I go and Dyno it, I should have a pretty good comparison against Tooter because I'd have almost the identical setup at that point (plus lighter wheels and a pulley's)

I'll of course update when I swap the T-Body etc.....

If you want an accurate apples to apples comparison, I'm not running a full exhaust, and only have a catback. Everything else between the catback and the header is all stock. I'd advise not making any more new changes, and backtracking to remove the 1ZZ throttle body and then the tooter intake manifold.

And if you're already running a DC header, I wouldn't waste any money on a Weapon R as they're both so short I don't believe that there is that much difference in performance between them.

It's tough tracking down the problem with so many changes all done at the same time. And if for any reason you're not totally satisfied with the manifold, please don't hesitate to return it clean and undamaged for an immediate full refund of your purchase price. I just raised my prices and will simply bead blast it again and resell it.

Greg

[cali yaris]

I'm not running a full exhaust, and only have a catback.

I didn't know you installed a midpipe section, tooter; or do you mean instead that you have an axle-back exhaust?

[cali yaris]

two different cars, two different dynos, two different days. Even with identical mods, they won't be comparable except in the most general way.

[3cyltrbo]

two different cars, two different dynos, two different days. Even with identical mods, they won't be comparable except in the most general way.

Of course

however

if I were to dyno 92whp (for example) with more mods that seem to compliment each other / and Tooter dyno'd 111whp ..............................................than , ...........that will prove what my butt says............................. which is that something is amiss.

However.............if I Dyno anywhere north of 100whp, than I'd chalk it up to a problem in my head (assuming I'm not able to find any other variables)

[tooter]

I didn't know you installed a midpipe section, tooter; or do you mean instead that you have an axle-back exhaust?

Just an axle back. I'm used to using my truck's terminology where there's no such thing as an axle back. Thanks for asking, Garm. :smile:

Greg

[cali yaris]

^ I *wish* there were a flange there right after the cat for us to use!

[ilikerice]

Depending on the type of Dyno. I dyno'ed my stock yaris on a Dynamics dyno and got 115whp. Which was bogus. So I went to another shop who had a dynoJet. I got 87whp on that dyno. Dyno's are usualy on good to tune with, not to compare dyno numbers with other people who use different dyno's.

[tooter]

Depending on the type of Dyno. I dyno'ed my stock yaris on a Dynamics dyno and got 115whp. Which was bogus. So I went to another shop who had a dynoJet. I got 87whp on that dyno. Dyno's are usualy on good to tune with, not to compare dyno numbers with other people who use different dyno's.

That's right in the ball park with the rest of the stock dyno runs:

87hp to 91hp

I chose Dyno Jet for all my dyno runs because their charts have really precise numerical resolution. A lot of the other dyno charts are way too vague and wishy washy and only indicate approximate results.

[cali yaris]

Will, did you swap the TB back to stock yet?

[Mz3oh5]

Looks better then my car ;)
I'll take your performance upgrade any day!!

-- Isabella

[tooter]

Of course

however

if I were to dyno 92whp (for example) with more mods that seem to compliment each other / and Tooter dyno'd 111whp ..............................................than , ...........that will prove what my butt says............................. which is that something is amiss.

However.............if I Dyno anywhere north of 100whp, than I'd chalk it up to a problem in my head (assuming I'm not able to find any other variables)

Hey trbo, :smile:

Haven't heard anything as to whether or not you got your engine running right yet. So what happened? If for any reason you're not satisfied with your tooter, please don't hesitate to return it for a full refund. Right now, I'm sold out so there's no problem taking it back to resell to someone else.

Please let me know...

(also pmed you)

Greg