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View Full Version : (M2 Springs Installed) Some tips for installation of lowered springs for noobs


Henry_mak16
08-12-2013, 04:48 AM
Hey Yarisworld! I just spent way too long on my yaris trying to put in these $100 M2 Performance Lowering Springs (Amazon). I just wanted to share some tips to those that may need help (like I did) or those that have no experience with this crap.


Don't underestimate the time it will take
This job can be very tedious and frustrating if you are doing it for the first time. You may even need to run to home depot for tools you thought you wouldn't need.

Raise two wheels at a time
(Two front/two back of course) I'll explain in the other tip.

Use your emergency scissor jack (or a floor jack)
to compress the rear spring so that you can take the bolt and stud (or w.e.)

Spin the rear spring
to plop it out if it doesn't just pop out. A way to wiggle it.

Compress front spring w/jack to reduce torque required for front 19mm bolts
The 19mm (2 bolts) was the hardest for me to take out. It is factory set for 141lbs and I only had a 25-100lbs torque wrench ($80 at home depot-_-). I fricken broke my ratchet wrench trying to unscrew it and it almost hit my eye! However I compressed the spring up and loosened it from the side with screw sticking out. You need a wrench that is strong and long.

Be prepared to remove the cowl
It is possible without it, but you better have some skinny ass offset wrench. I bought one but the neck was too fat to get a good grip. I used a through-ratchet from home depot (has a hole in the middle for allen key) and improvised my old jackstand to hold the allen key. This part made me want to cry, the top nut is so hard -_-. And when you finish loosening it your strut falls all quick.

Be prepared for the tedious work of using the spring compressors
That shyt takes forever to loosen if you're using a monkey wrench.

Get every part of the spring with the spring compressor
I left the bottom two twirls of the spring uncompressed and the shock went flying a bit.

Good luck.






Disregard my hubcaps....I can't afford rims =P.
(Picture taken right after installment) 2009 Yaris 3dr Hatchback
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd200/Henry_mak16/photo.jpg?t=1376293365

yarisugi
08-12-2013, 07:37 AM
lol.

d3310n
08-15-2013, 03:00 PM
i like this thread. this is a good thread.

Tedtalker
08-15-2013, 04:56 PM
Thanks for sharing. Gives me a good head-start when I do get some springs.How did you get torque back to 142 Lbs? How do you like the ride with the M2s ?

Henry_mak16
08-19-2013, 03:25 AM
Thanks for sharing. Gives me a good head-start when I do get some springs.How did you get torque back to 142 Lbs? How do you like the ride with the M2s ?

I got it to 100 torque lbs since another thread said 70lbs is enough so ehh? The m2s so far are pretty awesome. The car handles a lot better beause I dont lean when I turn fast so I guess more grip to the tires? and with only an inch and a half drop, ride is only slightly rougher and I dont have to go 2 mph on bumps. never bottomed out

D&D
08-20-2013, 01:07 PM
...

Don't underestimate the time it will take
This job can be very tedious and frustrating if you are doing it for the first time. You may even need to run to home depot for tools you thought you wouldn't need.

Raise two wheels at a time
(Two front/two back of course) I'll explain in the other tip.

Use your emergency scissor jack (or a floor jack)
to compress the rear spring so that you can take the bolt and stud (or w.e.)

Spin the rear spring
to plop it out if it doesn't just pop out. A way to wiggle it.

Compress front spring w/jack to reduce torque required for front 19mm bolts
The 19mm (2 bolts) was the hardest for me to take out. It is factory set for 141lbs and I only had a 25-100lbs torque wrench ($80 at home depot-_-). I fricken broke my ratchet wrench trying to unscrew it and it almost hit my eye! However I compressed the spring up and loosened it from the side with screw sticking out. You need a wrench that is strong and long.

Be prepared to remove the cowl
It is possible without it, but you better have some skinny ass offset wrench. I bought one but the neck was too fat to get a good grip. I used a through-ratchet from home depot (has a hole in the middle for allen key) and improvised my old jackstand to hold the allen key. This part made me want to cry, the top nut is so hard -_-. And when you finish loosening it your strut falls all quick.

Be prepared for the tedious work of using the spring compressors
That shyt takes forever to loosen if you're using a monkey wrench.

Get every part of the spring with the spring compressor
I left the bottom two twirls of the spring uncompressed and the shock went flying a bit.

...


Don't forget: Loosen your lug nuts before you go and jack the car up! :bellyroll:




I installed these exact springs about a month ago. Got them on eBay for $80. The quality and fitment was better than expected for the cost. :thumbsup:

I didn't like how the rear was lower than the front though, and this did not change after 2-3 weeks of settling. I was happy with the height of the rears though, so I just cut off 1/4 of a coil off of each end of the front springs. Sits VERY nice now and has just the tiniest amount of rake (which I think all cars should have). :cool:




**Also, I didn't use a spring compressor and don't think you need to. I just laid the strut/ spring on it's side, stood on the stock spring while loosening the top nut to release the tophat, and had the bottom of strut body up against the wall. When it finally let go it gave a good pop, but nothing flew more than a few inches and I felt zero chance of injury doing it this way.

JohnnyMalice
08-21-2013, 02:43 AM
Don't forget: Loosen your lug nuts before you go and jack the car up! :bellyroll:




I installed these exact springs about a month ago. Got them on eBay for $80. The quality and fitment was better than expected for the cost. :thumbsup:

I didn't like how the rear was lower than the front though, and this did not change after 2-3 weeks of settling. I was happy with the height of the rears though, so I just cut off 1/4 of a coil off of each end of the front springs. Sits VERY nice now and has just the tiniest amount of rake (which I think all cars should have). :cool:




**Also, I didn't use a spring compressor and don't think you need to. I just laid the strut/ spring on it's side, stood on the stock spring while loosening the top nut to release the tophat, and had the bottom of strut body up against the wall. When it finally let go it gave a good pop, but nothing flew more than a few inches and I felt zero chance of injury doing it this way.

DO the springs sit ok with it cut? I want to do that with mine but havent tried it because Im afraid it will not seat properly

cali yaris
08-21-2013, 11:24 AM
It's unwise not to use a spring compressor -- you did it the best way without using one, but you also got lucky. Parts can go flying all over the shop/garage/yard doing it that way.

D&D
08-21-2013, 02:32 PM
DO the springs sit ok with it cut? I want to do that with mine but havent tried it because Im afraid it will not seat properly

If I had cut 1/2 of a coil off of either end then it would have posed a problem. But by cutting just 1/4 of a coil off of both ends, it retains the shape of the end of the spring enough to seat satisfactorily.

Also, be careful and don't cut too much off. If I had cut anymore off than I did, the overall length of the spring would have been too short for it to stay in place during moments of full droop (i.e. accidentally catching air on a railroad crossing).

It's unwise not to use a spring compressor -- you did it the best way without using one, but you also got lucky. Parts can go flying all over the shop/garage/yard doing it that way.

Unwise? Maybe, but it's definitely a lot faster! :redface: (Especially so for those like the OP who use the spring compressor without the benefit of air tools.)

And luck had nothing to do with it, I had a plan and knew what to expect and have done the same process on several other cars before. I would recommend doing it this way to anyone that feels confident in their mechanical abilities.

cali yaris
08-21-2013, 02:44 PM
I had a plan and knew what to expect and have done the same process on several other cars before.

Right. But not everyone does/has. A beginner/first-timer should use a spring compressor.

Like I said "you did it the best way without using one". The top parts can pop off with such force that they fly a fair distance -- lost parts in the middle of an install are not fun, and if someone is in the way, or you point it at yourself, that's just plain dangerous.

I have an obligation to point out possible safety concerns, and I always will.

D&D
08-21-2013, 03:11 PM
^^Understandable.

JohnnyMalice
08-23-2013, 01:05 AM
[QUOTE=D&D;711228]If I had cut 1/2 of a coil off of either end then it would have posed a problem. But by cutting just 1/4 of a coil off of both ends, it retains the shape of the end of the spring enough to seat satisfactorily.

Also, be careful and don't cut too much off. If I had cut anymore off than I did, the overall length of the spring would have been too short for it to stay in place during moments of full droop (i.e. accidentally catching air on a railroad crossing).



SO you cut a 1/4 inch top the top and the bottom?

D&D
08-23-2013, 02:13 AM
SO you cut a 1/4 inch top the top and the bottom?

Not exactly. I cut 1/4 of a coil off of each end..

JohnnyMalice
08-26-2013, 04:55 AM
SO A total of a 1/2 of a coil 1/4 from the top, and a 1/4 from the bottom? Sorry for asking this over and over, Just want to make sure I got this right.

D&D
08-26-2013, 01:30 PM
SO A total of a 1/2 of a coil 1/4 from the top, and a 1/4 from the bottom? Sorry for asking this over and over, Just want to make sure I got this right.

Yes. That is what I did, and have been running for over a month now with no problems. I would recommend against taking anymore off than that on these specific springs (M2 brand, blue, from eBay).

Make sure to post pics when you're done! (I still need to post pics of mine, lol).

JohnnyMalice
08-26-2013, 09:44 PM
Yes. That is what I did, and have been running for over a month now with no problems. I would recommend against taking anymore off than that on these specific springs (M2 brand, blue, from eBay).

Make sure to post pics when you're done! (I still need to post pics of mine, lol).

Awesome thanks!! Im about to do a bunch of stuff today, Home depot front lip, and put my CAI back on (had to smog my car last weekend) so If I feel like tearign apart my suspension Ill take pics

willygoodness
09-14-2013, 07:39 AM
how are you finding the M2 springs?

D&D
09-14-2013, 03:05 PM
how are you finding the M2 springs?

How are they working for me? Or where am I finding them to buy?

willygoodness
09-15-2013, 07:41 AM
How are they working for me? Or where am I finding them to buy?


I need to learn how to ask questions better haha :/


how are you finding the ride quality of the springs compared to standard? And especially after you've cut 1/4 from top and bottom?

I'm looking at them on ebay and the only numbers on ebay page is

Spring Rate Front/Back: 170 lbs / 200 lbs



most other springs i've found have been front 5or6kg/mm and rear 3or4km/mm spring rate and I don't know how to compare those numbers

Sir A.Y. Atoyot
09-15-2013, 02:16 PM
Why? The car's too low in stock form.

D&D
09-15-2013, 09:08 PM
I need to learn how to ask questions better haha :/


how are you finding the ride quality of the springs compared to standard? And especially after you've cut 1/4 from top and bottom?

I'm looking at them on ebay and the only numbers on ebay page is

Spring Rate Front/Back: 170 lbs / 200 lbs



most other springs i've found have been front 5or6kg/mm and rear 3or4km/mm spring rate and I don't know how to compare those numbers

To me, they are barely any stiffer than the stockers. Not really firm feeling or bouncy at all. I would definitely recommend these for street only, and would not want them on a track.

These were some of the softest lowering springs I could find in my price range, and that's what I wanted, since the harder the spring you need the stiffer the shock you need to keep it under control.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/forum/forum_1110951659.htm

Why? The car's too low in stock form.

You're kidding, right??

willygoodness
09-16-2013, 06:33 AM
Thanks D&D!! (Y)


Why?!?? haha

cali yaris
09-16-2013, 12:25 PM
Why? The car's too low in stock form.

http://www.ivygateblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/923-facepalm.gif

D&D
09-16-2013, 12:49 PM
^^^

:laugh::bonk:

jcboy
09-16-2013, 01:12 PM
To me, they are barely any stiffer than the stockers. Not really firm feeling or bouncy at all. I would definitely recommend these for street only, and would not want them on a track.

These were some of the softest lowering springs I could find in my price range, and that's what I wanted, since the harder the spring you need the stiffer the shock you need to keep it under control.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/forum/forum_1110951659.htm



You're kidding, right??

I'm pretty sure he is.:biggrin: Here where I live we even call it "Innova fender gap." (Innova is an MPV/AUV)
:help::bonk:

jRoss
10-31-2013, 07:38 PM
I think noobs should know to cover the sharp part of the fender with something to avoid slicing their hands open

aznssaiyan
11-02-2013, 01:08 PM
did you cut your bumpstops? ill post pics of mine here when i finish my install.

willygoodness
11-04-2013, 07:38 AM
na. i didn't see a reason to cut bump stops.

they are rather nice ride. went 2 weeks then got a whiteline sway bar


definitely recommend a rear sway bar.