Instrument cluster swapout help

[JudgeM]

Hey all,

I've mentioned in a previous post my dissatisfaction with my instrument cluster. Just a recap; I've got a JDM Vitz RS. Yaris have been designed to be left hand drive, and riht hand drives are essentially converts. It is evident with the gauge cluster. Its more visible from the passenger side in my car then driver side. The RPM is just way too far for me to see.

After lot of searching and money, I found a UK Yaris digital meter which internally actually faces the driver. It finally arrived today (I am in New Zealand)

Doesn't fit.... :cry: why ? the connections are the other way round. Refer to the 1st picture.

Now here are my questions that I hope you can help me with:

1) I had a quick look and I suspect that I can undo the tape on the main wiring bundle from which the cluster wires come out of and they maybe long enough. Can anyone confirm this ? I really don't want to have to cut the wires and add extention to them myself. (see 2nd picture for the wires)

2) I found these 2 wires not connected to anything (see 3rd picture) instinct tells me these could be the temperature probe wires. My original meter does not display outside temperature but the replacement one can. I also see there are couple of empty connections in the connector. Could I get the temperature to display on the new gauge somehow ?

3) This meter is from the UK and the display is in miles. We use km here and I would like to stick to that. I read in some other threads that this can be easily changed. Can anyone advise on this ?

4) odometer. I know CTscott offers odometer reprogramming. I would rather not send my meter all the way to the US. Is there another way I can get this done ?

5) light color; i would like it to be orange like originally in the car. Again, I know CTscott can change color of the displays. I am intrigued as to how you change color of the VFD ?

Sorry for the long post ! Really appreciate any help and advice. :help:

[CTScott]

What is the part number off the European one? some of the European ones are switchable and others are not. Also, the extra wires could be due to it being one for a diesel, which have some additional indicators. From the part number I can tell.

For making the connections on the opposite side, I believe you will have to lengthen the wires on both sides. With the first JDM cluster that I experimented with I had to do that, as there was not enough slack in the harness to reach the opposite sides.

For odometer reprogramming, you should be able to find a service to do so more local than me. Toyota won't do it, but there are third party companies that do them.

For the VFDs I use optical filters to change the color.

[thetut]

Try here for reprogramming: http://www.robinsoninstruments.co.nz/ri_services.html

[CTScott]

I just checked the JDM wiring diagram versus the European and the two wires for the ambient temperature sensor would connect to pins 3 and 24 of the larger connector (and would be black and white wires).

The two empty slots on the smaller connector are for the fuel filler warning switch (the slot with the arrow in your picture) and the other is not used.

[JudgeM]

Part number is 83800-0D490-D for the replacement meter I have.

Thanks for the odometer service people link. I will give them a call.

Oh man do I really have to manually lengthen the wires? Thats gonna be a whole day of soldering and heatshrink . Oh well.

So those 2 wires that are not connected anything (circled in 3rd picture) is the ambient temp sensor wires ? Can you advise on how I can add those pins from the 2 pin connector to the larger connector ?

For changing the color and optical filter, CTscott I understand that you do it as a service, but are you willing to sell the optical filter and instructions to do it ?

[CTScott]

Part number is 83800-0D490-D for the replacement meter I have.

Thanks for the odometer service people link. I will give them a call.

Oh man do I really have to manually lengthen the wires? Thats gonna be a whole day of soldering and heatshrink . Oh well.

So those 2 wires that are not connected anything (circled in 3rd picture) is the ambient temp sensor wires ? Can you advise on how I can add those pins from the 2 pin connector to the larger connector ?

For changing the color and optical filter, CTscott I understand that you do it as a service, but are you willing to sell the optical filter and instructions to do it ?


Those two unconnected wires do not match the colors (white and black) of the ambient temp sensor wires, so I am not sure what they are. It appears that they are actually in a two pin white connector?

For the color change, I can help you with that. What color are you looking for?

[JudgeM]

I would like orange.

Yes, those 2 wires are in a white connector, they seem to be going up to that immobilizer light (the one near the defrost windshield vent) . Is there anyway I can check this is the ambient temp sensor, if not where is ambient temp sensor normally found ?

If I dont have the ambient temp sensor, could I buy one (from you) and wire it in to work with this meter ?

Oh and any word on if I can easily change units in my meter ?

thanks.

[CTScott]

I would like orange.

Yes, those 2 wires are in a white connector, they seem to be going up to that immobilizer light (the one near the defrost windshield vent) . Is there anyway I can check this is the ambient temp sensor, if not where is ambient temp sensor normally found ?

If I dont have the ambient temp sensor, could I buy one (from you) and wire it in to work with this meter ?

Oh and any word on if I can easily change units in my meter ?

thanks.

Those wires are definitely not the ambient temp sensor. It is located on a plastic bracket below the radiator. If you look though the lower grill you will see it, if it is present. If it is present, you could add two wires to the cluster and grab the connection at the AC ECU (which is under the center of the dash). If your car doesn't have one, it would be easy enough to add it. I believe I do have a spare one on hand and I also have the pins for the cluster connector.

Orange would be no problem. Are you looking for about the same color as your analog cluster had?

I am 90% sure that the unit supports going back and forth between KM and Miles. Once you power it up, you hold the odo trip reset switch for more than one second with the tail light switch off to switch display units.

[JudgeM]

Hi again.

Yes I am looking for the same color as my old meter. I dont really like the color, but I have OCD and I want everything to match and I wanna try to keep the car looking original.

I had a look at my radiator, I coudnt seem to find anything resembling the temp sensor. Although I did see a black wire and a white wire going near the radiator, I couldnt trace where they lead to.
Could you please tell me where on the AC ECU i can see ? I had a look and I dont think I was looking at he AC ecu.

I did a preliminary road test with the new meter, and speed units can be changed by holding down trip button like u said, but the milage stays in miles. No way to change that I guess becoz the VFD does not have any unlit text saying km/h . Also, the fuel consumption is in mpg, i do see in the VFD a km/l . I managed to use Techstream to change it to km/l
I love the digital speed, the bar graph RPM will take time to get used to, it feels laggy compared to the analog.

I have a more serious problem though: :help:

1) The indicator lights are all wrong. I get the hi beam indicator permanently on, the turn signals are flashing things like the battery light etc. Strange but it seems as though the JDM and EUDM have different wiring. CTScott, do you have a wiring diagram for these so I can confirm and reroute wires? I could only find USDM wiring diagram.

2) I have a permanent beeping and a symbol (cog with ! mark) even when the car is off and doors locked. Does this have something to do with the person I bought this from saying that it will have to be "coded" to work in your car. Do you know what this means ? Can I do this with Techstream ?

I've attached pics for reference
I appreciate the help.

[CTScott]

Hi again.

Yes I am looking for the same color as my old meter. I dont really like the color, but I have OCD and I want everything to match and I wanna try to keep the car looking original.

I had a look at my radiator, I coudnt seem to find anything resembling the temp sensor. Although I did see a black wire and a white wire going near the radiator, I couldnt trace where they lead to.
Could you please tell me where on the AC ECU i can see ? I had a look and I dont think I was looking at he AC ecu.

I did a preliminary road test with the new meter, and speed units can be changed by holding down trip button like u said, but the milage stays in miles. No way to change that I guess becoz the VFD does not have any unlit text saying km/h . Also, the fuel consumption is in mpg, i do see in the VFD a km/l . I managed to use Techstream to change it to km/l
I love the digital speed, the bar graph RPM will take time to get used to, it feels laggy compared to the analog.

I have a more serious problem though: :help:

1) The indicator lights are all wrong. I get the hi beam indicator permanently on, the turn signals are flashing things like the battery light etc. Strange but it seems as though the JDM and EUDM have different wiring. CTScott, do you have a wiring diagram for these so I can confirm and reroute wires? I could only find USDM wiring diagram.

2) I have a permanent beeping and a symbol (cog with ! mark) even when the car is off and doors locked. Does this have something to do with the person I bought this from saying that it will have to be "coded" to work in your car. Do you know what this means ? Can I do this with Techstream ?

I've attached pics for reference
I appreciate the help.

Here is where the ambient temperature sensor is mounted behind the bumper. It is visible through the lower grill.
52723

Here is where the AC ECU is located on left hand drive Yaris:
52724


I put together a conversion chart for US to European clusters a while back and just updated it with a third section for the Japanese Vitz. The turn signals are wired in the same place on all three, so you should double check your extension wiring.
52725

[JudgeM]

Thanks for the pics and pointers CTscott.

I had a look and I think I did find the temp sensor. A bit hard to see thru my grills and under the car I have a cover so impossible to see. I've put a picture in the attachments for confirmation. I will check my AC ecu later on for the wires and I will try to add it to the cluster.

More importantly:

I am losing faith in this project of mine. I double and triple checked my extension wiring and still the wrong indicators are lighting up. I even directly connected it to the connector (with great difficulty) and still same problem.

Furthermore, this meter just wont stop beeping. I have a feeling its from a multimatic/auto transmission car and is sad that the transmission is missing. I will confirm this with the seller.

I am seriously considering buying another meter but this time guaranteed from a manual transmission car. I'll try to return the old meter if not, I will just keep it and play around with it for another project.

So can anyone advise on how I can stop the beeping, errors and incorrect indicators ? :help:

An update, with my fumbling around on Techstream, I managed to change the units of the fuel consumption calculator ! :headbang:

Regards,

[ezhacker1]

kinda off topic, but still regarding that Ambient Temp Sensor:

Torque app doesnt show a reading under "Ambient Temperature", but there IS the sensor right on there on the radiator. Does the sensor give an actual number reading, or just a tripped sensor: too hot/too cold.

[CTScott]

Thanks for the pics and pointers CTscott.

I had a look and I think I did find the temp sensor. A bit hard to see thru my grills and under the car I have a cover so impossible to see. I've put a picture in the attachments for confirmation. I will check my AC ecu later on for the wires and I will try to add it to the cluster.

More importantly:

I am losing faith in this project of mine. I double and triple checked my extension wiring and still the wrong indicators are lighting up. I even directly connected it to the connector (with great difficulty) and still same problem.

Furthermore, this meter just wont stop beeping. I have a feeling its from a multimatic/auto transmission car and is sad that the transmission is missing. I will confirm this with the seller.

I am seriously considering buying another meter but this time guaranteed from a manual transmission car. I'll try to return the old meter if not, I will just keep it and play around with it for another project.

So can anyone advise on how I can stop the beeping, errors and incorrect indicators ? :help:

An update, with my fumbling around on Techstream, I managed to change the units of the fuel consumption calculator ! :headbang:

Regards,


It may be the Asian market cars are different wiring-wise than the Japanese cars. I have never been able to track down the wiring diagrams specific to that market, so it very well may be that some of those wires are in different positions on your car. I would hold off on purchasing another cluster until we can confirm the wiring. It would probably be best for you to talk to you local Toyota dealer to see how you can acquire them.

[JudgeM]

I sent a message to the seller. He says that this unit is definitely from a manual transmission model. He said the meter wont work properly until its "coded"

Does anyone know what is this "coding" he is talking about ? I would like to avoid going to any specialist at the moment. I am hoping I could do everything with Techstream.
I have researched about coding and could not find anything.

I doubt the wiring is different across regions. Half of the meter practically works.

[CTScott]

I sent a message to the seller. He says that this unit is definitely from a manual transmission model. He said the meter wont work properly until its "coded"

Does anyone know what is this "coding" he is talking about ? I would like to avoid going to any specialist at the moment. I am hoping I could do everything with Techstream.
I have researched about coding and could not find anything.

I doubt the wiring is different across regions. Half of the meter practically works.

There is no such thing as "coding" a cluster. I have experimented with Japanese, Australian, and European clusters on USDM Yaris without issue.

The only reprogramming would be to adjust the odometer, and that can only be done with a EEPROM programmer, as TechStream can not do so.

[jcboy]

Speaking of clusters: Hi Scott, I have been interested in doing swaps since i started driving almost 2 decades ago.

I realized that only the US has LHD Yaris/Sedan, and so only your clusters there are going to fit in our cars here in Manila. Unfortunately, I've also noticed that your clusters have a different plug underneath. (the other one is the same though--the pic showed by the OP has the plug positions interchanged, but are the same nonetheless)

Q: assuming the pigtail harness is included with something I purchase from one of your junkyards, and rewiring is done, will the lack of the other wires from Asian (Philippines/Thailand) Yaris Sedans still make the cluster work fully?

The bottom left plug is longer:
US:
http://cdn2.sulitstatic.com/images/2012/0610/175711730_175656256e58e86d8da8ae2deebc26a0d6b75477 fd304bd8d.jpg

Asian:
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5971/dscf0695jpg.jpg

[CTScott]

Speaking of clusters: Hi Scott, I have been interested in doing swaps since i started driving almost 2 decades ago.

I realized that only the US has LHD Yaris/Sedan, and so only your clusters there are going to fit in our cars here in Manila. Unfortunately, I've also noticed that your clusters have a different plug underneath. (the other one is the same though--the pic showed by the OP has the plug positions interchanged, but are the same nonetheless)

Q: assuming the pigtail harness is included with something I purchase from one of your junkyards, and rewiring is done, will the lack of the other wires from Asian (Philippines/Thailand) Yaris Sedans still make the cluster work fully?




I never noticed that for the Sedans that you get the same connectors as the liftback. On that giant connector D76 on the US sedan there are many unused pins, so it is not like the US one has many other connections to it.

I believe that a US one with the correct connector and lengthening the wires to reach the opposite sides would work fine.

[IllusionX]

I'm pretty sure i have the short plug like the asian cluster on my sedan...

[JudgeM]

I asked the seller of the meter to explain more about this "coding" he talks about. Here is what he said:

"I mean it will still have all it's old cars information in it so when you put it in your car all kinds of faults can show up, all I think it needs done is to be immobilised and made compatible with your car"

So how does one immobilise the meter :confused:

[CTScott]

I asked the seller of the meter to explain more about this "coding" he talks about. Here is what he said:

"I mean it will still have all it's old cars information in it so when you put it in your car all kinds of faults can show up, all I think it needs done is to be immobilised and made compatible with your car"

So how does one immobilise the meter :confused:

He has absolutely no clue. The only vehicle specific data on the cluster is the odometer reading and even that is really not vehicle specific as it will show the same value if you move it to a different car.

[JudgeM]

Yea it doesn't make sense ah. I will let him know and I definitely take your advice over his without even blinking. Also, none of the other sellers I asked for meters mentioned anything about coding.

I'll give this meter one more go in my car. If I still have these weird problems then I will try to return it and get another one from someone else.

Thanks CTscott for the advice.

[jcboy]

I never noticed that for the Sedans that you get the same connectors as the liftback. On that giant connector D76 on the US sedan there are many unused pins, so it is not like the US one has many other connections to it.

I believe that a US one with the correct connector and lengthening the wires to reach the opposite sides would work fine.

Great, thanks Scott, although the "lengthening of the wires" isn't necessary as we are LHD here too. Yup, the sedans and hatchbacks here have the same plugs here, and so do your hatchbacks there. (was actually surprised why, and your sedans don't)

Sorry OP for a bit of hijacking the thread.

[JudgeM]

Thanks CTscott for the information. I will try to return the meter to the seller and get another one from someone else. The meter also had a bit of cosmetic damage due to transit.

I've put up a video for all to see of the problems I had with this meter:

http://youtu.be/sZDzyRVeh8g

[Mareo]

Hi All, I think this post might be really helpful for me.

I need to convert my European Yaris MK2 to the UK specifications: this means (unfortunately :bonk:) that I need to replace my actual speedometer. Its number is 83800-0D660-D, for a 1.0l petrol 3dr 2007 Yaris with manual transmission.
I've checked for second hand UK speedometers and there are different types both digital (numbers 83800-0D650D or *0D650 or *0D490D or *0D680D) and analogic (mainly 83800-0DG60).
In any case I need to extend the cable to fit the new connections but I'm really afraid that the single pins will not correspond similarly between the European and the UK speedometers.
Then my main concerns/questions are:
- which is the best part number that matches with my 0D660-D, or do I need to match the same engine displacement, doors, gearbox?
- Is there any pin wiring conversion I need to consider when cabling the new speedometer?
- If I buy a new digital UK speedometer it will display the speed pointing toward the right seat, while my car is left-hand drive. Is it possible to use my LHD speedometer framework (I've already disassembled my actual one and there is a mirror inside)? If not, is it possible to buy an analogic speedometer without any problem in the wiring connection (i.e. different pin locations and cabling)?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Matteo

[CTScott]

Hi All, I think this post might be really helpful for me.

I need to convert my European Yaris MK2 to the UK specifications: this means (unfortunately :bonk:) that I need to replace my actual speedometer. Its number is 83800-0D660-D, for a 1.0l petrol 3dr 2007 Yaris with manual transmission.
I've checked for second hand UK speedometers and there are different types both digital (numbers 83800-0D650D or *0D650 or *0D490D or *0D680D) and analogic (mainly 83800-0DG60).
In any case I need to extend the cable to fit the new connections but I'm really afraid that the single pins will not correspond similarly between the European and the UK speedometers.
Then my main concerns/questions are:
- which is the best part number that matches with my 0D660-D, or do I need to match the same engine displacement, doors, gearbox?
- Is there any pin wiring conversion I need to consider when cabling the new speedometer?
- If I buy a new digital UK speedometer it will display the speed pointing toward the right seat, while my car is left-hand drive. Is it possible to use my LHD speedometer framework (I've already disassembled my actual one and there is a mirror inside)? If not, is it possible to buy an analogic speedometer without any problem in the wiring connection (i.e. different pin locations and cabling)?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Matteo

Definitely avoid the digital one, as it will point in the wrong direction and not be visible from the driver's seat.

For the Analog ones, the key is the match the year and features (traction control, ABS, etc.) of your car.

The UK and European ones have the connectors in the same place, so you will not have to extend the harness.

[Mareo]

Thanks a lot CTScott.

Actually I can only find Analog speedometers of 2010 or 2011 for 1.3l petrol and 1.4l diesel, all 5 door cars (mine is a 1.0l 3doors). Do you think it may fit my specifications?

Unfortunately it's a shame that I cannot use an UK digital speedometer, it's plenty of it.

[Mareo]

Forgot to specify that the code for the 1.3l petrol is 83800-0DG30 and the seller states it's for a Mk2 Yaris (like mine).

Matteo

[CTScott]

The diesel has some different indicators which will remain on, so you would want to use the 1.3l. There won't be an issue with the different number of doors.

[ezhacker1]

I have both European and UK digital clusters, im fine with the kilometers only European one, but iv been toying with merging the two, and have miles (albeit, the speedometer section will be on the right of the tachometer)

[Mareo]

Thanks for your info, I've just bought and received an analog cluster (83800-0DG30). It works fine but the "High engine coolant temperature" light is always on. Do you know any reason for that?

Thanks

[CTScott]

Thanks for your info, I've just bought and received an analog cluster (83800-0DG30). It works fine but the "High engine coolant temperature" light is always on. Do you know any reason for that?

Thanks

The instrument cluster gets the engine temperature from the ECM by CAN bus message, so it is very strange that the light is always on. Does the "cool" light come on when you turn the key on?

[fpanczel]

Hello,

If I want to change my VFD speedometer (Yaris 2006) with one newer from (yaris 2009) - I need also the immobilizer?

Thanks,

[Mareo]

The instrument cluster gets the engine temperature from the ECM by CAN bus message, so it is very strange that the light is always on. Does the "cool" light come on when you turn the key on?

Hi CTScott, unfortunately not, the "cool" light was always off while the "hot" one on.
It's odd that when swapped to my original speedo and I turned the key on, the "hot" ligth appeared for 1sec and then was replaced by the (correct) "cool" ligth.

Do you think there was something wrong in the ECM? I don't think so because I suppose the speedometer is just receiving signals not sending to the ECM (am I right?).

Do you think the new speedometer is not calibrated properly and reads the same CAN signal as the original speedo but with a different range cool-hot?

Anyway, tomorrow I'm going to swap again to the new speedo and check if the light is still on. Do you have any alternative in case it's still there?

Thanks.

[CTScott]

Hi CTScott, unfortunately not, the "cool" light was always off while the "hot" one on.
It's odd that when swapped to my original speedo and I turned the key on, the "hot" ligth appeared for 1sec and then was replaced by the (correct) "cool" ligth.

Do you think there was something wrong in the ECM? I don't think so because I suppose the speedometer is just receiving signals not sending to the ECM (am I right?).

Do you think the new speedometer is not calibrated properly and reads the same CAN signal as the original speedo but with a different range cool-hot?

Anyway, tomorrow I'm going to swap again to the new speedo and check if the light is still on. Do you have any alternative in case it's still there?

Thanks.


Hopefully the issue is that your coolant temp sensor is actually bad. I have experimented with clusters from other regions and the temperature lights always worked correctly, as the cluster just receives a CAN bus signal from the ECM with the temperature. Definitely not an ECM issue.

[Mareo]

Hopefully the issue is that your coolant temp sensor is actually bad. I have experimented with clusters from other regions and the temperature lights always worked correctly, as the cluster just receives a CAN bus signal from the ECM with the temperature. Definitely not an ECM issue.

Hi CTScott, I don't know the reason but now the light is off.
So it looks like everything is working fine.
Thanks again,
Matteo

[nodi]

Hi all, sorry to revive this old thread, but I'm facing exactly the same issues as the original poster, so I thought I'd give it a go...

I have both European and UK digital clusters, im fine with the kilometers only European one, but iv been toying with merging the two, and have miles (albeit, the speedometer section will be on the right of the tachometer)

ezhacker1, how did you go about merging the clusters? Are these analog clusters? [edit - cancel that question, you said they're digital]

I have to convert my Yaris to MPH, since unfortunately the instrument cluster is one of those digital LHD European ones that don't have the km/h <-> mph switching option.

I bought a digital UK RHD cluster and I tried swapping over the control board (that small PCB sandwiched onto the big main one, with the µC / eeprom on it). It worked, sort of, the status indicators etc. worked fine, but the digital speed / RPM display sections were totally garbled. I'm guessing the routing to the actual VFD is different (the VFD is also mirrored, no chance of swapping those).

I suppose I could simply fit the entire RHD cluster in my car, but firstly I'd then have to extend the connector wires, since the connectors are also mirrored - a tedious task - and secondly that would make reading the speed from the driver's seat quite difficult. I wouldn't mind that so much, but the MOT tester probably would.

Any pointers on how to go about this would be greatly appreciated.

I would also be perfectly happy with an analog cluster, even one that is km/h only (as on analog ones you can simply apply an adhesive overlay for mph). Just not sure if there's one available in Europe that actually fits my Yaris.

Cheers

[nodi]

Have to bump the thread again ...

Maybe someone has already tried swapping the control boards between otherwise identical LHD and RHD clusters (83800-0D660-D and 83800-0D650-D) and can confirm that the pinout / PCB routing is different? I have a slight suspicion that the garbled display might have been due to the flex ribbon cable connecting the VFD being improperly mounted.

Also, does anybody know if an analog cluster with part number 83800-0DG30 is compatible with this Yaris:

VNKKL923.. SCP90L-CHMGKW 11/2005 - 10/2008 SCP90 SOL FRP LHD 2SZFE MTM 5F 5D


Many thanks!

[nodi]

For the sake of completeness and in case someone faces that same set of problems:

Control boards from digital RHD and LHD clusters are NOT compatible. The PCBs are completely identical, and they will mechanically fit in both LHD and RHD clusters and thus can be swapped between them. However the firmware is different beyond just computing speed and mileage in MPH or km/h - the VFD component for speed and RPM display (basically everything you see enlarged by the mirror) has a different pin out, and the control board firmware takes that into account. I assume the controllers on that board to be OTP, so no chance of reprogramming even if one were to re-engineer the firmware.

Good job the RHD instrument I bought to try this out on was old and came in under £20. Maybe I can now flog it off on ebay for £5 or something.

The analog cluster 83800-0DG30 on the other hand works just fine in said car. Pinout for the vital indicator LEDs seems to be compatible.

[innu]

Hi. I'm looking for pinouts for the connectors of an instrument cluster panel for yaris 2015. I've seen the Yaris Instrument Cluster Wiring (USDM vs European vs Japanese) document, but for the PCB I have, D1 has 40 pins, and D2 13 (they also labeled differently - CNA and CNB). Any suggestion of where I could find some schematics would be greatly appreciated. I wasn't able to find anything so far :confused:
The part number is 83800-0u191.

https://s14.postimg.org/dvxnz60gx/IMG_4933.jpg

[2zzYarisRsi]

Thanks for the pics and pointers CTscott.

I had a look and I think I did find the temp sensor. A bit hard to see thru my grills and under the car I have a cover so impossible to see. I've put a picture in the attachments for confirmation. I will check my AC ecu later on for the wires and I will try to add it to the cluster.

More importantly:

I am losing faith in this project of mine. I double and triple checked my extension wiring and still the wrong indicators are lighting up. I even directly connected it to the connector (with great difficulty) and still same problem.

Furthermore, this meter just wont stop beeping. I have a feeling its from a multimatic/auto transmission car and is sad that the transmission is missing. I will confirm this with the seller.

I am seriously considering buying another meter but this time guaranteed from a manual transmission car. I'll try to return the old meter if not, I will just keep it and play around with it for another project.

So can anyone advise on how I can stop the beeping, errors and incorrect indicators ? :help:

An update, with my fumbling around on Techstream, I managed to change the units of the fuel consumption calculator ! :headbang:

Regards,

Did you eventually have any luck with this?

I've just done the reverse of the swap that you did (digital to analog), and have a similar issue.

I also had to cut and extend the wires to just one of the plugs (the opposite site had enough slack to reach), and I'm pretty sure I've joined everything correctly.

The battery icon stays illuminated, and flashes when the indicator / turn signal is on. Other than that, everything else on the cluster seems to be working perfectly.

Any pointers would be appreciated