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View Full Version : drive belt replacement and/or water pump replacement


sociolog
02-09-2014, 07:59 AM
Dear all,

My Toyota Yaris 2001 has 75 000km and I' m thinking about drive belt replacement, but I'm little confused because don't know should I change the water pump as well?

For example when I changed drive belt on my Skoda Felicia 1997 I had to change with it the water pump and the pulley as well. The reason for this complete change was that the new drive belt can tighten the old water pump more firmly and that could lead to leaking.

So is t same with Toyota Yaris? I found the drive belt replacement procedure on this forum and I find it very useful but nobody mentions anything about replacement of waterpump as well.

Please tell me is it ok that I just replace the drive belt or ought I to replace the waterpump with it?

Thank yo very much in advance!

bronsin
02-09-2014, 09:01 AM
Yes you will be fine just changing the belt.

However, because of the water pump problems these cars have had (very few but still...) I recommend checking the bottom of the hood maybe once a month when you check the oil (you DO check the oil, dont you?) for tell tale red stains on the right side.

No worries, just do the belt!

sociolog
02-09-2014, 09:24 AM
Thank you for your answer. you resolved my dilemma and made my job much easier:)))

I do check the oil from time to time since I repair Toyota mayself and with the help of this forum. Thanks to this forum I have saved a lot of money such as for the MAF sensor which repair would cost me 700 dollars.

my Toyota has green (or blue) coolant, but I will chekc under the hood.

One more thing: drivebelt is fine for a now, but is there any time or kilometers limit on when to change it?

Also my Toyota was made in Japan. it was the last genberation made there. I heard that those Toyotas that were made in Japan are better than those assembled in Europe. That is at least for the our market in Europe, I'm not familiar with the US Toyota market.

alanwagen
02-09-2014, 10:33 AM
FYI, when using a lever to tension the belt. Stay away the oil control valve which sticks out of the block near the valve cover. It will break.

see pics and read post.:coolpics:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49286&highlight=oil+control+valve

sociolog
02-09-2014, 12:06 PM
Thank you I saw that this is tricky.

just for clarification, the control valve is on the right side of the alternator train (on the pictures it looks rusty)?

alanwagen
02-09-2014, 09:47 PM
Thank you I saw that this is tricky.

just for clarification, the control valve is on the right side of the alternator train (on the pictures it looks rusty)?

Yes on the right, yours may not look like that. It may have cover.

sociolog
02-10-2014, 07:18 AM
Thank you, just one more thing, when changing the belt I don't have to worry about first piston position like for example when changing timing belt?
i can just park the car and take off old belt and install new one without takng prior notice on the postition of the piston?

bronsin
02-10-2014, 07:22 AM
Right!

alanwagen
02-10-2014, 09:35 AM
Thank you, just one more thing, when changing the belt I don't have to worry about first piston position like for example when changing timing belt?
i can just park the car and take off old belt and install new one without takng prior notice on the postition of the piston?

The belt only spins the water pump and alternator. No timing involved. The bottom alternator bolt may be troublesome as it can be on real tight.

sociolog
02-10-2014, 01:33 PM
Thanks everyone for the reply and advices.

I will inform you upon replacement!

Thank you all very much for resolving my dilemmas!