View Full Version : Please Help no rpm indicator, gear indicator, door indicator
yaristar
02-15-2014, 02:25 PM
Hi Guys,
I'am new to this forum and I bought an 2008 Yaris sedan Canadian recently and I noticed the RPM Gauge, gear Indicator, Door Indicator, Parking brake warning light don't seem to be working I have read many forums and have tried replacing fuses such as the met,panel1,panel2, gauge, ecu-ig even though these were not blown. I have also tried replacing the Instrument Cluster but that was no help. I also replaced the fuse box and that didn't help either.
This car is an auto base model sedan does this car not come with these features or is there something wrong?
Any sort of help will be greatly appreciated
Thank You
CTScott
02-15-2014, 03:15 PM
That's an odd one. One of the fuses you listed would have been my bet.
All of those features should work on your Sedan, so the problem is still likely an electrical one. The first thing I would verify is that the connectors are properly seated. Considering that you have swapped the cluster, that it not likely to be an issue, but make sure that you can see the tips of all of the pins visible on the hole side and make sure that the pin latch is snapped down, so that the connectors go all the way in.
From there, the next step would be to check some pin voltages and continuity to ground of the ground pins. Do you have a multimeter?
yaristar
02-16-2014, 01:12 AM
Hi,
Than you for replying
I did check to see if the pins are ok connectors seem to be all properly seated Can you tell me which pins to check I will check asap I'am not to familiar with what pins I should be checking.
yaristar
02-16-2014, 02:32 AM
Hi,
I would also like to mention that when i do connect my elm to the OBD i do get the reading for the rpm's and also the dome light when set to door does turn on when a door is open the problem is the cluster is not displaying it. I really don"t know what to check except for what CTScott mentioned earlier
CTScott
02-16-2014, 08:00 AM
OK. You have two connectors - a 24 pin and a 40 pin. When you are looking at the back of the connectors with them plugged in pin 1 is on the upper right.
12----1
24---13
20-------1
40------21
On the 24 pin connector check the following:
1. Voltage on pin 1 (black wire) with key off and on:
2. Voltage on pin 2 (light blue wire):
3. Voltage on pin 14 (green wire) with key on and headlights on:
4. Continuity to ground of pin 24 (brown wire) with key off:
On the 40 pin connector check the following:
1. Voltage on pin 16 (green wire) with key on and headlights on:
Do the turn signals work on the cluster?
yaristar
02-16-2014, 02:52 PM
Hi,
I will check those voltages today
Yes everything else works on the cluster including the turn signals headlight indicator ect
yaristar
02-16-2014, 06:10 PM
hi i tested the pins today and the readings where as following
24 pin connector
pin 1 with the key off 0.001 and with key on 12.4 and start 14.17
pin 2 read 12.9 with key off and 12.4 key on and start 14.2
pin 14 with key on and headlights on was 12.414, with headlights on and car started was 14.2
continuity of ground was good on pin 24
40 pin connector
pin 16 when started read 14.2, 12.2 with key on
yaristar
02-16-2014, 08:30 PM
Do these voltages sound right?
CTScott
02-16-2014, 09:30 PM
Those are all fine.
You mentioned a ScanGauge. Have you tried disconnecting it, as the RPM comes to the cluster via CAN bus message? The door open status comes via CAN bus as well on some configurations of the Sedan cluster.
yaristar
02-16-2014, 10:22 PM
yes that was the elm 327 i only use that to read codes and i disconnect it every time
what can it be if all those voltages are correct?
I really have no idea were to go from here
yaristar
02-16-2014, 10:40 PM
Do you know how the message goes from can bus to the cluster because I know the can bus is receiving the message
CTScott
02-16-2014, 10:40 PM
yes that was the elm 327 i only use that to read codes and i disconnect it every time
what can it be if all those voltages are correct?
I really have no idea were to go from here
Check the voltage on the two CAN bus wires on the smaller connector (Green wire in pin 20 and white wire in pin 21) with the ignition on.
Do you just use your ELM with a smart phone, or have you used it at all with a PC?
yaristar
02-16-2014, 10:52 PM
i have only used the elm with my pc
CTScott
02-16-2014, 11:25 PM
i have only used the elm with my pc
That's good. If the CAN voltage measurements check out OK, then I can walk you through sending some commands directly to the cluster ECU.
yaristar
02-17-2014, 03:32 PM
i checked the voltage and pin 20 shows .0002 and pin 21 shows .003
yaristar
02-17-2014, 03:37 PM
i checked pin 20 (green) and pin 21 (white) on the small 24 pin wire that plugs into the cluster, is this the connector you were referring to?
CTScott
02-17-2014, 04:10 PM
i checked pin 20 (green) and pin 21 (white) on the small 24 pin wire that plugs into the cluster, is this the connector you were referring to?
Yes. On the right side connector. Those two pins, with the connector plugged in and with the ignition on, should each read about 2.5 Volts to ground.
yaristar
02-17-2014, 04:18 PM
Hi,
After plugging the connector in pin 20 reads 2.54 and 21 reads 2.6
CTScott
02-17-2014, 04:55 PM
Hi,
After plugging the connector in pin 20 reads 2.54 and 21 reads 2.6
OK. That is better. It looks like the cluster is connected to the CAN bus. So, the next step is to see if the meter is really alive on the CAN bus using your ELM 327.
What software do you use with your ELM?
Also, have you ever used Hyperterminal (windows' included terminal emulator)?
yaristar
02-17-2014, 05:34 PM
the software i use for my elm is proscan and elm scan master
no i have never used hyperterminal
CTScott
02-17-2014, 06:18 PM
the software i use for my elm is proscan and elm scan master
no i have never used hyperterminal
OK. Proscan has a terminal mode. Do you have a version that let's you get to that mode?
yaristar
02-17-2014, 06:48 PM
yes i think my proscan version 5.9 allows me to use terminal mode
CTScott
02-17-2014, 07:00 PM
yes i think my proscan version 5.9 allows me to use terminal mode
OK. Go into terminal mode and do the following. The lines above the > lines are what you need to type into the top bar and hit send and the lines below are what you should see as responses.
ath1
>OK
atsh 7C0
>OK
21 61
>7C8 03 61 61 00
21 24
>7C8 03 61 24 FF
21 E1
>7C8 03 61 E1 00
13 81
>7C8 02 53 00
yaristar
02-17-2014, 08:23 PM
this is what i got after typing in those codes
CTScott
02-17-2014, 08:31 PM
Just to verify, the 7c0 that you entered is 7c zero?
yaristar
02-17-2014, 08:38 PM
yes i entered a zero
CTScott
02-17-2014, 10:11 PM
OK. Try this:
ath1
>OK
atsh 7C4
>OK
21 22
>7CC 03 61 22 70
21 E1
>7CC 03 61 E1 00
13 81
>7CC 02 53 0
yaristar
02-17-2014, 10:25 PM
this what i got
CTScott
02-17-2014, 10:35 PM
OK. For the first round I had you talk to the cluster ECU, and it did not reply. For the second I had you talk to the AC ECU and it did reply.
If your meter leads are long enough, with the key off, check continuity between the green cluster wire and the violet wire of the OBD connector and between the white cluster wire and the white on the OBD connector.
yaristar
02-18-2014, 12:22 AM
Hi,
I checked for continuity and for both of the wires and the voltmeter indicates a possible break can i simply jump those wires directly to the odometer?
CTScott
02-18-2014, 12:41 AM
Hi,
I checked for continuity and for both of the wires and the voltmeter indicates a possible break can i simply jump those wires directly to the odometer?
You could jump them, but the two wires need to be twisted at one twist per inch minimum for the length of the jump.
yaristar
02-18-2014, 12:52 AM
Thank You so much
By jumping the wires my rpm gauge and gear indicator now work
I did jump them but i didn't really understand what you meant by twisting them do you mean they must be connected to each other directly? or simply twisted around each other with no direct connection?
Is the jump suppose to make the park brake warning light and door indicator work because those are currently still not working
yaristar
02-18-2014, 01:32 AM
Hi,
Do you know if i can simply trace these wires and see how they get to the cluster or do they go through the fuse box or something
CTScott
02-18-2014, 07:42 AM
Hi,
Do you know if i can simply trace these wires and see how they get to the cluster or do they go through the fuse box or something
They route through a large bundle of wires that is secured to the round support bar for the dash. There is a junction connector between the cluster and the under dash fuse panel that could be unplugged. That would require removing the dash top to get to.
The other thing to check before removing the dash is the connectors on the back of the under dash fuse panel. There are two back there and one is responsible for the CAN bus comm between the cluster and the body ECU, which is how the brake and door info gets to the cluster.
And, for the twisting it is simply a case of wrapping the wires around each other.
http://communities.ptc.com/servlet/JiveServlet/showImage/2-148597-1697/twisted_wire.jpg
yaristar
02-18-2014, 08:44 PM
I had a look behind the fuse box non of the connectors were unplugged but there are around 6 connectors behind there and i also popped the dash off and the plugs at the junction box seem to be connected there are many plugs at the junction box i tried looking through all of them but if you know the specific one that would help greatly. Otherwise I will check all of them again.
Do know if there is any thing that could be fried between the wiring from the fuse box to the cluster or do you think its the wires that have broken
CTScott
02-18-2014, 09:39 PM
I had a look behind the fuse box non of the connectors were unplugged but there are around 6 connectors behind there and i also popped the dash off and the plugs at the junction box seem to be connected there are many plugs at the junction box i tried looking through all of them but if you know the specific one that would help greatly. Otherwise I will check all of them again.
Do know if there is any thing that could be fried between the wiring from the fuse box to the cluster or do you think its the wires that have broken
OK. The only one of concern is the one on the back that it by itself way up near the top of the back side.
The body ECU acts as a junction block for all of the CAN devices, so something damaged within it could be the cause.
yaristar
02-19-2014, 12:06 AM
Is the body ECU a part of the fuse box because I have already Replaced that when the problem initially started and is the body ecu the same as the chassis ecu
CTScott
02-19-2014, 12:26 AM
Is the body ECU a part of the fuse box because I have already Replaced that when the problem initially started and is the body ecu the same as the chassis ecu
Yes. The body ECU lives within the fuse box and can be referred to as the chassis ECU. There are many different part numbers for the body ECU, based on configurations of the car. Did you match up the part number when you replaced yours?
yaristar
02-19-2014, 12:42 AM
I did not match the numbers but the same problem persists after replacing the fuse box the fuse box i got was off of a 2007 yaris sedan loaded and mine is a 2008 toyota yaris base
Can it also be possible that the engine control unit can also be bad?
CTScott
02-19-2014, 07:29 AM
I did not match the numbers but the same problem persists after replacing the fuse box the fuse box i got was off of a 2007 yaris sedan loaded and mine is a 2008 toyota yaris base
Can it also be possible that the engine control unit can also be bad?
I don't believe that it is the ECM (engine computer), as you would have a check engine light if he could not communicate. Were you able to check that top rear connector (it just has 4 wires in it, but they are the CAN bus wires for the cluster and for the body ECU).
While you are back there, see if you can get the part number off the new one. It is on a paper label on the back.
yaristar
02-19-2014, 08:32 PM
Hi,
I looked at the connector in the rear top of the fuse box it has 3 wires going into(doesnt seem to have a 4th) I also tried unplugging the connector and it didn't make a difference
I noted the number of the back of the fuse box it is 82730-52620 and 9847 on the new one
on the old one the numbers are 82730-52610 and 9846
CTScott
02-19-2014, 09:14 PM
Hi,
I looked at the connector in the rear top of the fuse box it has 3 wires going into(doesnt seem to have a 4th) I also tried unplugging the connector and it didn't make a difference
I noted the number of the back of the fuse box it is 82730-52620 and 9847 on the new one
on the old one the numbers are 82730-52610 and 9846
3 wires is actually correct for that vintage. The junction connectors where all of the inside CAN devices connect together are just above the kick panel on the passenger and driver's side. They are two 22 pin connectors. The cluster goes to the passenger side one and then from the the yellow and white twisted pair connect over to the driver's side one.
yaristar
02-19-2014, 11:56 PM
Thank You so much!!
You found the problem one of the grey connectors on top the passenger side kick panel cap was off.
Thanks again for helping me solve this big problem
I would have never thought of that or known about that I was going to replace the the ecm you saved me a lot of money!!
Thank You
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