Car Lifting & Exhaust Leak

[vaironl]

References Picture:

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo106/vaironxxrd/Yarisworld/rollcar_zpsa2b72d3e.jpg (http://s366.photobucket.com/user/vaironxxrd/media/Yarisworld/rollcar_zpsa2b72d3e.jpg.html)

Hello again, everyone!

I’m sorry to ask questions which have already been answered, but I have a bit to add on to my question. Don’t know how clear the pictures are to you, but I live on a slight incline I have two wheel chocks, which I assume I could place on the two front tires to prevent any roll. The incline is notable enough at places, but just to test out the ground I placed my car in neutral without the e brake and it didn’t move. I assume I should be fine.

Also, while on this topic. I’m only going to be taking one wheel off, should I lift the car by its rear point or side? I heard the sides tend to bend overtime as they are more of an emergency support. But I have no idea of how I would lower the car on one axle stand from the rear.

Second Question…

I will be installing a couple of parts for the Yaris over the next month, but first I have to fix my exhaust leak. I got an aftermarket Megan and it has a small leak where it connects to the flange (I believe that’s the name). I got a gasket about 2 months ago (NAPA) and it was made in India, I believe I just asked for the stock gasket and I assume this might cause a leak as well. However, a friend told me I can put two gaskets in there. Don’t know if that was a joke, or if I should give it a try.

This will be my first car lift I do by myself and I’m just trying to no screw anything, as I’m pretty well known for that.

[CTScott]

Some of the aftermarket gaskets are not the same size as the OEM ones (even ones that are supposed to be a direct replacement for the OEM part number). So

Lifting from the pinch seams is fine with the OEM jack. With an aftermarket jack you would want to use a rubber block (I use hockey pucks that I notched on the table saw) to prevent crushing the pinch seam. Lifting from the front or rear is great for getting both sides off the ground at once, but you would want to use two jack stands.

[vaironl]

Some of the aftermarket gaskets are not the same size as the OEM ones (even ones that are supposed to be a direct replacement for the OEM part number). So

Lifting from the pinch seams is fine with the OEM jack. With an aftermarket jack you would want to use a rubber block (I use hockey pucks that I notched on the table saw) to prevent crushing the pinch seam. Lifting from the front or rear is great for getting both sides off the ground at once, but you would want to use two jack stands.

I don't want to use the OEM jack and I don't have a saw. I guess I'll be careful since the car could roll a bit. Or just wait a bit and just install the other components I have.

[CTScott]

You can buy pinch seam jack adapter pads already made. A quick search shows a few on ebay for under $20. There are both the rubber pad type and one which replace the jack's head with one that looks like the OEM jack head.

[vaironl]

You can buy pinch seam jack adapter pads already made. A quick search shows a few on ebay for under $20. There are both the rubber pad type and one which replace the jack's head with one that looks like the OEM jack head.

Thanks, Scott!
I think I might still lift it this once and hopefully it won’t affect it too much, since I wanted to get rid of that leak. I will be ordering the pad, though.

[vaironl]

I got to lift the car without any frame bending. The wheel chocks became useful, as the car did roll a bit more than expected when I was lifting it.

The problem is the flange and the gasket that I got. I’m posting a picture of what appears to be a gasket already welded onto the flange… I honestly don’t know what I’m talking about and that’s my best description. Does anyone know what’s going on here? I thought the flange was supposed to be flat.

Picture:
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo106/vaironxxrd/Yarisworld/flange_picture_zps3929e7db.jpg (http://s366.photobucket.com/user/vaironxxrd/media/Yarisworld/flange_picture_zps3929e7db.jpg.html)

[CTScott]

That is normal. The gasket is the conical shaped area that is about 3/4" high. It is slipped around the tip of the pipe and may take a bit of prying to remove.

The muffler and mid pipe flanges don't sit flat against each other. The gasket fits tightly into the taper of the muffler flange's opening, but then there is a gap between the two flanges where the springs are compressed.

[vaironl]

That is normal. The gasket is the conical shaped area that is about 3/4" high. It is slipped around the tip of the pipe and may take a bit of prying to remove.

The muffler and mid pipe flanges don't sit flat against each other. The gasket fits tightly into the taper of the muffler flange's opening, but then there is a gap between the two flanges where the springs are compressed.

Thanks for the info again!

I didn't even attempt to take that off, thought it belonged there :iono:.
Oh well, I'll just have to live with the leak for now.