View Full Version : Dropping the tansmission?
Golddeenoh
03-07-2014, 05:24 PM
Does anyone know the best way to drop the transmission so that I can change the clutch?
CrankyOldMan
03-07-2014, 08:24 PM
I would check out the lightweight flywheel DIY (CCI?) for some info. Not sure if the pictures are still available, but the instructions were pretty thorough. I'm going to be in the same boat here in a few weeks (once the LSD shows up) and I get the franken-box put together.
xnamerxx
03-07-2014, 11:25 PM
I've done 4 engine swaps so far, and a clutch change, drop the crossmember when pulling the tranny, it'll save you a bunch of time. Disconnect the strut tops, calipers, and steering rack(getting the steering shaft back in place is a complete PITA its easier to pull the rack). That will give you complete easy access to the transmission without having to wiggle around things getting the transmission back in place.
Golddeenoh
03-10-2014, 12:40 PM
I ordered a Flywheel and clutch and for some reason the clutch got here but the flywheel has disappeared in the mail. apparently is is too much effort for the mail man to walk up to the house on a Saturday and he just left a slip in the mail box for me to drive over to the post office and get it myself. but wait the fun doesn't stop there, at the post office they can't find it.
so what i have is a lazy postman, and then incompetence in putting the package where it should be.
fnkngrv
03-10-2014, 01:51 PM
^ the USPS's system has been broken for years. I honestly try to avoid using them for anything "important".
Golddeenoh
03-11-2014, 03:38 PM
flywheel just showed up randomly. talked to the seller yesterday and as far as he knew it hadn't shipped. then all of a sudden it shows up today from ups.
apparently that other package was just the post man being afraid of the puppies in the yard and then he cam back later and dropped of the applicable package even though he wrote a 2 where a 7 was on the slip. well now i have my clutch and my flywheel, and will be starting on the swap in the morning.
Golddeenoh
03-11-2014, 04:55 PM
so now i have a springless clutch disc kit(it was only a few dollars more than a replacement) including throw out/release bearing. and a Competition clutch Flywheel, weight 8.46lbs. should make for an interesting drive.
Bluevitz-rs
03-12-2014, 11:59 AM
wow, a springless clutch! Hope its streetable.
Golddeenoh
03-12-2014, 09:43 PM
wow, a springless clutch! Hope its streetable.
I was wondering if someone would catch that. ironically i could have got a springed clutch for 4 dollars less but only 4 where listed when i looked or it bugged and only showed the 4.
I'm also changing the fluids to Royal Purple 75w-90.
CrankyOldMan
03-12-2014, 11:24 PM
I had the same thought, but figured you knew what you were doing. =)
Golddeenoh
03-13-2014, 11:28 AM
I'll debate whether the clutch will be changed or not depending on the damage. there is a good chance that all of my clutch slip is from hot spots in the flywheel. if that is the case then it will be the same clutch but change the spring plate and bearing.
Golddeenoh
03-14-2014, 01:00 AM
update, got it appart, 6 hot sports in the flywheel, and the clutch down to the rivets,less then .010'' or surface contact. so "stage 4" clutch it is. and 8.64 lbs flywheel.
oh and we just took off the front nose, crash supports forward and dropped the whole engine out. I have pictures but i dont remeber how to resize them to fit the parameters to post on here.
CrankyOldMan
03-14-2014, 08:25 AM
oh and we just took off the front nose, crash supports forward and dropped the whole engine out.
I've been seriously considering this myself. Did you have to empty the AC system?
I have pictures but i dont remeber how to resize them to fit the parameters to post on here.
You can use Windows Paint--just resize using "pixels" instead of percent.
Golddeenoh
03-14-2014, 09:03 AM
Yes we took down the AC system and capped it. that way we wouldn't bend the aluminum lines and brake anything.
Bluevitz-rs
03-14-2014, 09:42 AM
Click go advanced>Manage attachments. Then upload. Or sign up to photobucket. Easiest way to post pictures. Just copy the IMG link and past it here.
Golddeenoh
03-17-2014, 04:23 PM
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/Golddeenoh/20140313_115132_zpsddccc1c7.jpg
Flywheel with at least 6 hot spots
Bluevitz-rs
03-17-2014, 04:27 PM
Mmmm toasty!
Golddeenoh
03-17-2014, 04:45 PM
F1 stage 4 Clutch kit
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/Golddeenoh/20140308_154552_zps1f69b5a9.jpg
it was actually pretty easy to take the front clip/nose from the fenders forward and drop the engine out. took about 4 hours of labor, 3 if we didn't stop to analyze and recheck stuff to prevent binding up on exit.
Dropping the k-memeber
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/Golddeenoh/20140312_143240_zps817a5081.jpg
The engine was really easy to get out. love working on modular vehicles. and two of us can pick up the power-train assembly and move it about pretty easily
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/Golddeenoh/20140312_165920_zps534e4478.jpg
Clutch kit installed with the 8.46lbs flywheel
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/Golddeenoh/20140313_124254_zps47c954d8.jpg
notice all thge pink on the head and block, yea, that was a gross coolant leak that was leaking down in the the transmission bell housing and providing my clutch and flywheel with some lubrication. it was coming from that hose clamp just on the edge of the picture, changed to a wider/strong/better clamp, no more leaks. no wonder it slipped and died.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/Golddeenoh/20140313_124241_zps85ca3c1e.jpg
putting it back in.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/Golddeenoh/9900930a-b711-4b10-aa1a-9c1e8427d66f_zps9bb3c747.jpg?t=1395083407
Bluevitz-rs
03-17-2014, 05:01 PM
You'll probably notice a lot more driveline vibration, but less free play from on throttle to off throttle.
Golddeenoh
03-17-2014, 06:20 PM
it is definitely different. improved rev response, better grip from the clutch. weird to let out on, it has free travel until the top 75% of the peddle movement, then it starts to grab and is completely engaged by 80% travel. it lets out like a Honda, kind of weird. It will take some getting used to.
Bluevitz-rs
03-17-2014, 08:03 PM
You can adjust all aspects of the clutch travel by adjusting the pushrod from the pedal to the master cylinder. Just loosen the rod back a bit then adjust the top out stopper to take up the slack.
Golddeenoh
03-18-2014, 09:30 PM
the slack eased its self out. but on another note, the engine mount is either dead or dieing. squeaks with engine movement, running or not, and of course it is the oil filled/ hydrolic one that cost about 1k to get.
Bluevitz-rs
03-19-2014, 12:01 AM
If it comes to replacing it just get a used one.
Golddeenoh
03-19-2014, 06:31 PM
are these the correct ones?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-2009-Toyota-Yaris-1-5L-Engine-Motor-Mount-Torque-Strut-3Pc-Kit-/190781266799?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2009%7CMake%3AToyota%7CModel%3AYaris&hash=item2c6b731b6f&vxp=mtr
Bluevitz-rs
03-19-2014, 06:47 PM
They would appear to be. The ones for the Echo are all totally different.
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