"Free" Toyota Care oil changes in my 2012 are done. Synthetic or conventional oil?

[matti]

I've used up my last Toyota Care "free" oil change (conventional oil) on my 2012 Yaris. Now that I have to start paying for oil again, would you do synthetic, blend, or conventional? I've always only used conventional in my vehicles and have never had a problem. I know this has been discussed on this forum (and other forums) a million times, so mods feel free to delete this if you want.

Thank you.

[esse10]

if You live in an area where it stays below freezing for days during the winter than I would say yea synthetic will help, If not than regular 5w30 will do just fine. I've been using Valvoline 5w30 for years now with no issues, one of my cars has 194k miles the other has 145k miles and this yaris has 85k miles. IMO synthetic is not required.

[trunkout]

synthetic. as soon as possible. never go back.

[Exiwolfman]

synthetic. as soon as possible. never go back.


little dramatic there on the synthetic l..lol...i did the switch use what ever is on sale , usually i can pick up 5 l btle for about $25 bucks at walmart . The Yaris is good on just plain 5w30 its up to u .

[roxy1]

I've used up my last Toyota Care "free" oil change (conventional oil) on my 2012 Yaris. Now that I have to start paying for oil again, would you do synthetic, blend, or conventional? I've always only used conventional in my vehicles and have never had a problem. I know this has been discussed on this forum (and other forums) a million times, so mods feel free to delete this if you want.

Thank you.

all I can say is ive been using quality conventional oil and regular oil changes on my last 3 Toyotas, all of which went 200,000+ and were still running strong when sold.

[fnkngrv]

it all depends on what drain interval you want to be at. Toyota's blended oil is set for 5k miles, you won't really safely get much more than that on conventional. You want to go 7500, 10k, even up to 15k which in the long run saves you money even over a year's time then choose a quality synthetic. That is all I will say about that.

[tmontague]

I chose to run synthetic when I got my 08 Yaris with 87,000km on it due to the extreme cold weather start ups here in Southern Ontario. When I had my first car (Hyundai Accent) I noticed much easier start up and asmall increases in fuel efficiency (could've been conditions). I usually get Canadian Tire's Formula 1 house brand synthetic when it's on sale $25 or so for about 4.7L I still change my oil every 8-9,000km as well as the filter. The oil seems relatively clean when I change it so I could probably extend it but a family friend of mine who is an airplane mechanic and has been for the past 30 years mentioned that even though you're running syn oil it still is responsible for elevating the crap in your engine and replacing the oil is great insurance and relatively low cost.

I tend to agree with him since I'm paying next to nothing for syn oil that is API certified. I now have 119,000 km on my Yaris and I recently took off the valve head to check the valve clearances and there was absolutely no issue with sludge, it looked brand new. I've been nervous about the sludge issue as it has been a problem in the past. However from what i understand 08 and onward have been sludge free.

I'd recommend syn oil but don't pay top dollar for it. Get what is on sale and API certified and do it yourself.

[matti]

Everyone, thanks for the advice.

The owner's manual says to change the oil at 5k intervals. If I switch to synthetic, how long should my drain interval be? I do normal driving (majority of it is not stop-and-go). Thanks.

[fnkngrv]

If you are looking for the best answer it would be to follow what the oil and filter manufacturers recommend with the following caveat:

Every engine uses and consumes oil differently. A certain engine size/model/type has a general manufacturer's suggested interval however the only proper way is to have an independent oil analysis performed at the suggested interval end point. This would be the best way for you to determine when you need to change.

LOOKING AT, FEELING, AND SMELLING OIL IS NOT A VALID WAY TO DETERMINE IF IT IS STILL GOOD OR DIRTY!

That being said do a search here for oil analysis and you should find some good information. Hersey for example is a senior OG member and he has done several as far as I am aware. If you are that concerned than making best guess judgements won't cut it. I am an Independent T-1 Certified AMSOIL Dealer so I have seen a lot of scenarios.

I will leave it at that. Good luck and if you wish to pick my brain more feel free to shoot me a PM.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Hershey]

Here's the last Used Oil Analysis ( U.O.A. ) for the '08 sedan using SHELL synthetic 5w-20 . The previous O.C.s are on the report as well . May need to ZOOM in to get better reading . http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43653 . Use Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 for the '11 FIT and will likely use it or the 0w-20 Ultra Platinum for the '13 FIT . The Pennzoil and SHELL conventional are very good oil as well . The FIT has 10,000 mile or 1 year O.C.s , so liI prefer the synthetic . The 0w-20 is only available in synthetic or synthetic blend . MATTI , you have to stick to 5,000 miles or 6 month interval to keep the warranty . Be it synthetic or conventional . You can buy the PENNZOIL Platinum for $3 > $4 a quart with a mail in rebate and purchase at Wal-Mart of the 5 quart jugs . Go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary for some very good info on oil , etc.. Let us know on what you decide to use for the '12 .

[Rigaud]

If you are looking for the best answer it would be to follow what the oil and filter manufacturers recommend with the following caveat:

Every engine uses and consumes oil differently. A certain engine size/model/type has a general manufacturer's suggested interval however the only proper way is to have an independent oil analysis performed at the suggested interval end point. This would be the best way for you to determine when you need to change.

LOOKING AT, FEELING, AND SMELLING OIL IS NOT A VALID WAY TO DETERMINE IF IT IS STILL GOOD OR DIRTY!

That being said do a search here for oil analysis and you should find some good information. Hersey for example is a senior OG member and he has done several as far as I am aware. If you are that concerned than making best guess judgements won't cut it. I am an Independent T-1 Certified AMSOIL Dealer so I have seen a lot of scenarios.

I will leave it at that. Good luck and if you wish to pick my brain more feel free to shoot me a PM.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

:thumbsup:

[trunkout]

LOOKING AT, FEELING, AND SMELLING OIL IS NOT A VALID WAY TO DETERMINE IF IT IS STILL GOOD OR DIRTY!



so if I look at my Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil BRAND NEW and oil that I used for 10k miles in a glass and they look IDENTICAL that is NO indication???

:thumbdown:

[nookandcrannycar]

What Exiwolfman and roxy1 wrote yesterday :thumbsup:.

[fnkngrv]

so if I look at my Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil BRAND NEW and oil that I used for 10k miles in a glass and they look IDENTICAL that is NO indication???

:thumbdown:

Well I don't know about you but my eyes cannot detect things at a molecular level.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[UberSilver]

Time for a trip to WalMart for a jug of Synthetic 5/30. You can get 5qt jug for as low as $18. but they regularly go on sale for $22. Mobil1 Extended drain, or the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum looks nice as well.

I'm all for synthetic because the cost difference from Dino is minimal.:thumbsup:

Toyota's don't need Synthetic, but it can't hurt.:biggrin:


I've used up my last Toyota Care "free" oil change (conventional oil) on my 2012 Yaris. Now that I have to start paying for oil again, would you do synthetic, blend, or conventional? I've always only used conventional in my vehicles and have never had a problem. I know this has been discussed on this forum (and other forums) a million times, so mods feel free to delete this if you want.

Thank you.

[UberSilver]

so if I look at my Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil BRAND NEW and oil that I used for 10k miles in a glass and they look IDENTICAL that is NO indication???

:thumbdown:

That seems a bit far fetched. When I change mine once per year, it's too clear too see on the dipstick when new. At at 10k it's still Yellow, but visible on the stick.


Also, did you do a taste test? Mine taste like Lime when new, but by 10k miles it's got a Lemon favor to it.:biggrin:

[Hershey]

These are Virgin Oil Analysis of 5w-30 synthetics from Petroleum Quality Institute of America ( P.Q.I.A. ) .

1.) SHELL > http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/formulashellsyn.htm

2.) PENNZOIL Platinum > http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/pennzoilplt.htm

3.) MOBIL 1 > http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/mobil1.htm

4.) HAVOLINE > http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/havoline.htm

5.) AMSOIL O.E. > http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Amsoil.htm

6.) VALVOLINE Synpower > http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/valvolinesyn.htm

Here are few for 5w-30 conventional oils :

1.) PENNZOIL > http://www.pqiamerica.com/Pennzoil.htm

2.) SHELL > http://www.pqiamerica.com/ShellFormula.htm

3.) CASTROL GTX > http://www.pqiamerica.com/CastrolGTX.htm

4.) MOBIL Special > http://www.pqiamerica.com/ExxonMobilSpecial.htm

5.) TOYOTA ( Mobil ? ) > http://www.pqiamerica.com/Janaury%202012%20test%20results/toyota.htm

6.) VALVOLINE Premium > http://www.pqiamerica.com/Valvoline.htm

Go to P.Q.I.A. for many other tests of motor oil , tranny fluid , etc. , http://www.pqiamerica.com/ .