Tein Street Basis Coilover Install - 2007 Yaris Sedan NCP93 Stock

[sheekeebut]

Tein Street Basis Coilover Install - 2007 Canadian Yaris Sedan NCP93 Stock

My very first real modification to the Yaris.

I intend to document as much of it as I can, for the simple purpose of providing that extra bit of information one would like to have before making a decision to modify the car. This all arose from my futile attempts at obtaining a downloadable digital copy of the hard copy documents shipped with the product.

Reason for coilovers before anything else: Just to test the effects of modestly lower ride height and stiffer street dampers.

"Drive the way the car wants to drive and the speed follows", I've been told. We'll see about that.

Some reading to get myself familiar:
http://www.tein.com/products/street_basis.htm
http://www.tein.co.jp/e/products/street_basis.html
http://www.tein.com/products/street_basis_price_list.html
TOYOTA YARIS NCP93L 07-10 4dr GSL70-11AS2
Notice in the link above that this product uses the exact same part number as that for the NCP91 hatchback

Let me begin with the most exciting thing of all today
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KlX5gkezL4U/U5oc06naK9I/AAAAAAAAC3A/SWaqU3VZD8A/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140612_173037359.jpg

Opened (first thing I always look for is the documentation, which was found tucked just under this strut assembly.)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qmk9UWusYmg/U5pXXwBU-uI/AAAAAAAAC4k/JPdmUL1RX6w/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_214318783.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aNsrCaIf1UU/U5pdNokhqeI/AAAAAAAAC90/rV4vwBHVtCw/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220608543.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Lha93xmt5JI/U5pc3b25UZI/AAAAAAAAC9E/CoyhYL_grNQ/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220549087.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G9-HCGWPKsA/U5pctUvempI/AAAAAAAAC8s/5p2zFDEpLqo/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220540372.jpg
Yes, that's a small chip in the thread of one of the Height Adjustment System (H.A.S.) bases. I don't think I should be too concerned.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4-7g1UtF6_w/U5pZWHYAF_I/AAAAAAAAC54/-wgXPl2aJbs/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140612_215102837.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DR4kZaAdVtk/U5pdTd-nEhI/AAAAAAAAC-A/Uuz4srIAQRM/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140612_220613593.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IHYnQS8WwEg/U5pdp7PVOkI/AAAAAAAAC-w/8TtDPyh76-8/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220638598.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AEjuH5TpSNc/U5pdwIME-0I/AAAAAAAAC-8/6-YI2tVbnIo/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220642491.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pKZ_e-17ICA/U5pe6NO-GYI/AAAAAAAADBk/IKJA1mBN4Is/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220906400.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dYOVXPAfBMI/U5peiczRuxI/AAAAAAAADAo/Iq4bnSi8eyI/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220836435.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jSBiY8BM1NE/U5pem2ajEwI/AAAAAAAADA0/q9uXu8oSv7k/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220841085.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h8jnLMgsVNw/U5pe0nbW-hI/AAAAAAAADBY/Spuf7XGAhjM/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140612_220853407.jpg
More to come, still need to get the camber bolts.

[1.5]

what is this

[sheekeebut]

what is this
1.5, I don't know why, but it seems to work now. Strange thread, though, with you looking like OP

[sheekeebut]

It just doesn't make sense. I had a nice little post going, and next thing you know it doesn't even show up. I just hope I haven't ticked off the mods up to now. I must have made a huge mess.

[sheekeebut]

I'm going to put together a scan of the documentation, as it is extremely useful to prospective coilover purchasers. How should I make it available? pdf attachment?

[vaironl]

Subscribed!

[vaironl]

I'm going to put together a scan of the documentation, as it is extremely useful to prospective coilover purchasers. How should I make it available? pdf attachment?

Most threads I've seen use a combination of both pdf and html text as pdf makes it easy to download and html makes it easy to see instantly on the web.

[sheekeebut]

Most threads I've seen use a combination of both pdf and html text as pdf makes it easy to download and html makes it easy to see instantly on the web.

I actually meant the installation manual. I'm pretty sure I'll follow your suggestion when this is all installed, though.

[cali yaris]

From our forums, in the download section:

http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/Yaris_Coilovers_Guide_v1b.pdf

http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/Yaris_Coilovers_Diagram_Tein.pdf

Don't forget to re-use your strut bearings (or buy new ones), they get moved over to the new struts.

[sheekeebut]

From our forums, in the download section:

http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/Yaris_Coilovers_Guide_v1b.pdf

http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/Yaris_Coilovers_Diagram_Tein.pdf

Don't forget to re-use your strut bearings (or buy new ones), they get moved over to the new struts.

Understood, and thanks for the extra documentation. I hope to complement that with what I ended up with. I have a Japanese installation manual with a meaty English section.

[cali yaris]

and use a spring compressor, for safety.

[sheekeebut]

and use a spring compressor, for safety.

Wouldn't want to lose an eye... Or a face.

[sheekeebut]

Scanned the instructions.

English starts on page 16 (of pages marked on manual), but there are some interesting bits to look at in the Japanese section, like torque figures and such. Don't worry, they're in English recognisable characters. In fact they almost stick out.

[403RS]

Awesome, have never seen the English instructions haha.

Love my Teins.

[sheekeebut]

I just realised I've never, EVER, taken shots of my car. Brace yourselves everyone, for the shock, of stock:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/y7a3yvuj.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/ve4apupe.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/ygudyvev.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/a4u9ajyh.jpg



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[sheekeebut]

I've got a new set of rims and tires. I'll install them tonight.

My new concern is the rear alignment when this is lowered. This is purely daily driver, no track. Will the lowering (whatever I end up with after following Tein's instructions, predicted about -1.7 inches all around) necessitate rear toe and camber adjustment for improved (over stock) handling and minimal wear? Or am I stuck with the tradeoff of one sacrificing the other?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[cali yaris]

^ There is no rear alignment adjustment and it won't change when you lower the car. The front won't change much either, but can be adjusted.

You'd have to use a shim kit to change the rear specs to your liking.

[sheekeebut]

Doing a little bit of cramming before installation tomorrow. Doing both coilovers and the wheels. Didn't get the chance to try out just the wheels first.

Hoping to find a ride height appropriate for what may be 205/50R15 x 6.5 +38 ET. I thought they were +45, until I checked behind the spokes... Looks like a little "38" was stamped into the rim after coat. I'll do measurements before mounting them.

As for tonight, I've just gone through all above manuals, plus this one, which is fantastic for figuring out how to get at those strut towers:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4zHnPBD9_-QTG1lRjFacEZWdUk/edit?usp=sharing

Amazing, you don't even need to know any specific language to read it. The illustrations speak much better.

Pictures on Sunday, all. Look forward to them!

[1.5]

I thought our cars toed in slightly with a drop? Its nothing that should effect handling and tire wear but i think it still does toe in.

[vaironl]

This is getting intense, and I'm not even installing them. This is a great thread for me as I will be installing tein s lowering springs with tokico blues in about 2-3 weeks.


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[sheekeebut]

Sore today. When you look at the rushed and a touch improvised fashion that my brother Telly (forum name) does these installs, you'll understand why.

So my brother decides to do the rears first.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9T99PFULB9M/U6ZgslNZSYI/AAAAAAAADag/6XLwNdkZcJ0/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_123245249.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bQfu-OxZxzE/U6Zg3FVvQAI/AAAAAAAADRc/ZQ86XwVLSDo/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_123253677.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nI3PfSqGzfA/U6Zg-RvJ_4I/AAAAAAAADaY/ZbTehPLC3X4/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_123304030.jpg
Dropped the rear seats, ripped up the plastic panel just above the opening to the trunk, enough to rip out the panels on both sides of it. To access the rear shock towers. If you want to do it quick, use your hulk strength to just pull at the bottom rim of the rear centre panel until something gives way, and you'll snap a couple of little clips, which served to hold the top plastic panel on and against the side panels. If you want to do it right, you'll shine a flashlight from within the trunk, and you'll see the ends of the clips and understand a bit more about your car. My brother and I are polar opposites when it comes to this stuff.

[sheekeebut]

You see that whitish looking bit of hose that connects to a little bracket on the rear torsion beam? Yeah, once you take out the bolt holding the rear shock there, that part of the beam will just drop down. So you might want to unhook this bracket beforehand, to avoid any undue tension on that flexible, fragile looking hose. None of the manuals said anything about it, but there's no harm in screwing the bracket on again afterwards.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R-Y1JrKnYjw/U6Zhat5HZbI/AAAAAAAADSw/FDOUbKOpQ3o/w320-h570-no/IMG_20140621_124326434.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BfzAHEhXzw0/U6ZhWU8R7qI/AAAAAAAADSk/mfi9ApaIXmw/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140621_124319604.jpg
The picture above is WRONG! The OEM dust cover must be cut to length to provide the right spacing to the shock tower at the top, but at the same time provide just a little plastic below to overlap the Tein dust boot.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O_P3uzVbZHk/U6ZhoBnJzgI/AAAAAAAADTU/CUVMgsfgRWA/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140621_133246475.jpg
Slicing up the stock dust boot to length. Just before bolting it down, I realised the Tein's dust boot would not play nicely with this one at the length you see there (behind the rubber thing I'm holding). The manuals don't specify the length for this one. Then I took out the little rubber bit (pictured in hand) from inside. You can use a screwdriver to pull it out, but I just stuck my middle finger in there (be quiet, you pervs).

That made it easier to chop off the rest of it, pretty much to a 1/4" below the metal part's lowest point (see inside the cover to find that).
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CNBSBrIwuW8/U6ZhtW-IzaI/AAAAAAAADTg/jx_NOmUNDkw/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_142059591.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Icn1EZOssag/U6ZhyI-ppNI/AAAAAAAADTs/bfh23OSBPwQ/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_142101915.jpg

Clocked the lower shock bushings before lowering the rear. I don't know if it helps, but it at least doesn't hurt. Did it with the rear axle jacked up to stock distance to fender. Then it all got tightened.

[sheekeebut]

Just a side note. You WILL need help doing this. But also consider your help's personality, because it may not match with the way you work.

So I measured off the H.A.S. (height adjustment system) as recommended by the manual. But then my brother was suddenly burdened by an urgent change to his schedule, so we had to hurry up on this install (I HATE THAT). So I decided, instead of using default figures right away, I threw on an extra 4mm to the default 46 mm on the adjustment base that the Tein manual called for. That was then installed in the rear without a hitch.

Another thing. when you send the shock up to the top of the tower, you'll have trouble with the Tein top nut screwing in enough to grab at the wrench flats at the end of the rod and tighten the whole thing up the right way. Well, that's where my brother made use of his small impact wrench. I hope it didn't spin the rods too much and funk up the dampener internals.

[sheekeebut]

Front driver's
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_u4c1f4pwKk/U6ZiAsRMN5I/AAAAAAAADUQ/AAKRaJMox3w/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_152732531_HDR.jpg

Notice the jack stand under the frame member. Yeah, we had the bright idea of raising only one side of the car to do the front struts, so we needed that as a "safety", in case the side jack point didn't hold up. Well, don't be stupid like me. Use the designated front central jack point, regardless of how far in and under it seems. Make use of the regular Canadian Tire sales to get that lower-down flatter profile floor jack with the cushioned cup. Spend that little extra time carefully sliding that thing under the car and using tiny tiny steps at first to finally get it to lift. You'll save yourself hours of fiddling around with two jacks, and there'll be less uneven load up in the fronts caused by the front sway bar.

The various bolts unhooked
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1hYnUD0r1hw/U6ZiKpajDQI/AAAAAAAADUo/Tyejw_fbG_s/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_152739641_HDR.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g7yOXukxu7w/U6ZiFs1wXAI/AAAAAAAADUc/cqyU4CyK5TU/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_152736608_HDR.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3BIocKZ_30A/U6ZiV8lUz1I/AAAAAAAADVA/MdqWUZS4qDU/w349-h621-no/IMG_20140621_163328879_HDR.jpg
Smaller jack in the last pic is to lift up the lower arm to get the (much shorter than stock) Tein strut into the tower. The jack stand in front of rotor was some ghetto way of keeping the whole spindle from swivelling around in pretty much every axis.

Later on did we find some blue plastic twine to temporarily tie the spindle to something solid above (strut tower hole).

[sheekeebut]

Finally smartened up a little and jacked up the front. Notice the passenger's side dips way down compared to the driver's side. Now, imagine how much trouble we had trying to knock out the passenger's side end link. Solution: jack up the passenger's side lower arm, to match the height on the driver's side.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-03sP5Uvh_bE/U6dobeMnf2I/AAAAAAAADgA/GJLp4fcoGLM/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140621_190051932_HDR.jpg

[sheekeebut]

If your Tein Street Basis front right strut looks like this, it should be good. Then you can install the ugly rubber hat on top.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ESp9KyFyaPU/U6Zkdz25RFI/AAAAAAAADZs/2l9tp6difjE/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140621_201505092.jpg

[sheekeebut]

Tools I didn't expect to need:
=======================

Saw and bench: for cutting bump stops. The hand saw and flimsy plastic bench did the job, but not easily.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/hy5udumy.jpg

Side cutters: a poorly cut bump stop from a cheap saw needs a (relatively) good trim. Also useful for last minute trimming when you realise, after you've mounted the rear shock, that the dust cover is still too long.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/asedevam.jpg

A decent jack:
That economy sized 1.5 ton jack is usable, but a real pain, even for this economy car. Used it only to support a main jack, like for lowering and raising the side jack points and spindle assemblies when unhooked from shocks/struts.
I say a real jack for lowering MUST have a lower profile, and a cushioned cup, if you really care for your ride.
Below=crap, but still useful
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/etyragub.jpg

Below=great, and on sale frequently
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/su9y7ubu.jpg

Electric impact wrenches of various sizes:
These are great time savers. And though they caution against these on shock piston rods, they were the only way to get enough wrench flats from the rear shock bolts to pull all the way through.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/azu6e3uq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/ve2y6ygy.jpg

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[IllusionX]

lol you used saw to cut the bump stop!! A knife was all needed to cut it with precision!

[sheekeebut]

lol you used saw to cut the bump stop!! A knife was all needed to cut it with precision!

Yeah, a touch overkill, I guess. No excuse there. I should've just passed by the store to get something sharp.

[vaironl]

Pics of the lowered car!!!!!!!

[sheekeebut]

Coming right up!

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

[vaironl]

BTW it sounds like you had a tough time any fun in it though? I hope I can get some help when I need to install my tein springs

[sheekeebut]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/vavysu5y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/4eduryta.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/apupypy5.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/ubanuqy7.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/24/u5y5ezyr.jpg

For now. Have to wipe the licence plate from the front and rear shots

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[Exiwolfman]

That looks awesome ...nice drop and love the wheels ...how low did u go ?

sent from Mars using Moto g !

[sheekeebut]

Still need to adjust headlights and get an alignment

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[Exiwolfman]

Lol headlights ...I have been meaning to do same after I lowered my Yaris

sent from Mars using Moto g !

[sheekeebut]

BTW it sounds like you had a tough time any fun in it though? I hope I can get some help when I need to install my tein springs

Yes, it was tough, because of the sudden time constraints we fell under. That's when things began to feel more like a chore than a hobby. Again, like I said, it's better to choose someone more "compatible" with you, someone you know you work well with. It just makes the install experience better. I chose my brother not because of this, but because he's got plenty of experience that are on basically another level. My choice, can't take it back now.

But even when the work was at its hardest, it was a blast. Just getting in there and looking at every square inch of your car's internals, which you've probably never seen before, nor cared about, suddenly gets you curious, about lots of things.
"What's this thing for?"
"Weird, it looks a little tilted there."
"Oh THAT'S where it goes!"
Then you have to look everything up. I had a 7" tablet with me. It was like having like a million manuals, plus this forum, in the garage.

My brother says that if you don't take a moment to just chill and relax, from these thoughts, it'll consume you. I think it's too late for me. I've been bit. I'm up all night thinking about what to do with Yaris.

Then when you first jump in to test it out, break it in a little, and you've never lowered your own ride before, you'll feel awkward as hell, worrying about what you did to your car. It's when you realise the car's got newer limits that you look at that plain old street bend a different way, fling round the corner, almost bash your head into the window, and even with the thing's puny 1.5 litre, you rocket past that apex full throttle grinning from ear to ear, partly in disbelief. I laughed maniacally. My brother can vouch for me.

[sheekeebut]

That looks awesome ...nice drop and love the wheels ...how low did u go ?

Will post my numbers in a bit.

Lol headlights ...I have been meaning to do same after I lowered my Yaris

I'll do the necessaries to get back to street legal and the authorities off me. The police around where I live simply want you to be sensible about your ride, in the streets. Give them no reason to pull you over, and they'll pull you over anyway, just for a quick check on your record and to compliment your car. With this in mind, you'll understand where I came up with the abovementioned numbers.

[Exiwolfman]

Sounds like peel region to me ...lol

sent from Mars using Moto g !

[sheekeebut]

Sounds like peel region to me ...lol

You guessed it!

[Exiwolfman]

Lol ...my old neck of the woods ...and yes they can be a pain in the butt

sent from Mars using Moto g !

[vaironl]

Yes, it was tough, because of the sudden time constraints we fell under. That's when things began to feel more like a chore than a hobby......

It looks so beautiful :cry:

I'm on the same boat now. I recently found out I'm not getting any more grants for school so I have to save up to pay for the next 2 semesters, but I also want to lightly mod my car.

[sheekeebut]

It looks so beautiful :cry:

I'm on the same boat now. I recently found out I'm not getting any more grants for school so I have to save up to pay for the next 2 semesters, but I also want to lightly mod my car.

I'd go with the general consensus that the most useful mod you can have for a daily driver -- no track -- is springs AND shocks. The bolt-on engine upgrades don't fit my budget at all, with single-digit-percent (read unnoticeable) gains on our 1NZ FE, as I've gleaned from this forum. If I've got no more than $1K to spend on the thing, I'll probably skip the rims and rubber and go straight to suspension. No offence to the rims and rubber, but the looks and extra grip don't quite catch me as much as the feel of the road in a stiffer car.

My brother wants me to get a strut brace to firm up my fronts. I'll either go solid 3-point or won't bother. I think rear sway is next on the list as soon as I get accustomed to the current setup, i.e. after alignment, ride height tweaks (possibly a touch higher -- yes, higher! my centre of gravity works great when my oil pan's not crashing into railroad crossings and various road construction debris) and a full winter and spring of driving experience.

Are you in the GTA?

[vaironl]

I'd go with the general consensus that the most useful mod you can have for a daily driver -- no track -- is springs AND shocks. The bolt-on engine upgrades don't fit my budget at all, with single-digit-percent (read unnoticeable) gains on our 1NZ FE, as I've gleaned from this forum. If I've got no more than $1K to spend on the thing, I'll probably skip the rims and rubber and go straight to suspension. No offence to the rims and rubber, but the looks and extra grip don't quite catch me as much as the feel of the road in a stiffer car.



My brother wants me to get a strut brace to firm up my fronts. I'll either go solid 3-point or won't bother. I think rear sway is next on the list as soon as I get accustomed to the current setup, i.e. after alignment, ride height tweaks (possibly a touch higher -- yes, higher! my centre of gravity works great when my oil pan's not crashing into railroad crossings and various road construction debris) and a full winter and spring of driving experience.



Are you in the GTA?


That's exactly where I'm heading. I'm waiting for tokico shocks and struts to go on sale somewhere to avoid damaging the stock ones. I actually also want to get some wheels and tires, but I've seen some ridiculous prices (relative to my budget, not the quality) of those, which have kept me from getting some.


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[sheekeebut]

The Numbers
====================================

The values below represent the lengths in the height adjustment systems that decide how high/low you want it. The lower the number, the more lowering.

Excerpt from Tein manual:
----------------------------------------
Reference Value (Yaris 07-11 3dr/4dr) for USA
Front 0.8 inch (20 mm)
Rear H.A.S. 1.8 inch (46 mm)

Reference Value (Yaris 07-11) for UK
Front 1.0 inch (25 mm)
Rear H.A.S. 1.8 inch (46 mm)

----------------------------------------
(don't know what's so different about UK from the US models, but notice my numbers below are just a bit offset higher than the UK values)

Remember when I said we were under time constraints? Well, I decided that I didn't have time to set to default values and then readjust, so I decided to go with these values from the start:

My Values
Front 1 3/16 inch (30 mm)
Rear H.A.S. 1 31/32 inch (50 mm)

====================================

Tein manual wheel centre to fender reference values:
----------------------------------------
"USA"
Front 12.8 / 12.6 inch (325 / 320 mm)
Rear 12.8 / 12.6 inch (325 / 320 mm)

"UK"
Front 13 inch (330 mm)
Rear 12.8 inch (325 mm)
----------------------------------------
Stock values:
~ 14 1/2 inch (368 mm) all around

Lowered, results from my values:
~ 13 inch (330 mm) all around

Before install, I was worried about rub on pronounced weight transfer, hard bumps and full steering lock, especially on wheels that I suspected were 38 ET instead of 45. I still don't know what offset they are (rushed install), but they don't rub. Tested on full stretch of Mississauga Rd Erin Mills from Steeles to Dundas. I don't look forward to the construction areas where they've torn up asphalt and mark raised manhole covers with orange paint that you don't notice until it's too late.

Scraped audibly only once going down to parking garage. Learned my lesson, I now approach skewed, leaving or entering.

[vaironl]

The Numbers

====================================



The values below represent the lengths in the height adjustment systems that decide how high/low you want it. The lower the number, the more lowering.



Excerpt from Tein manual:

----------------------------------------

Reference Value (Yaris 07-11 3dr/4dr) for USA

Front 0.8 inch (20 mm)

Rear H.A.S. 1.8 inch (46 mm)



Reference Value (Yaris 07-11) for UK

Front 1.0 inch (25 mm)

Rear H.A.S. 1.8 inch (46 mm)



----------------------------------------

(don't know what's so different about UK from the US models, but notice my numbers below are just a bit offset higher than the UK values)



Remember when I said we were under time constraints? Well, I decided that I didn't have time to set to default values and then readjust, so I decided to go with these values from the start:



My Values

Front 1 3/16 inch (30 mm)

Rear H.A.S. 1 31/32 inch (50 mm)



====================================



Tein manual wheel centre to fender reference values:

----------------------------------------

"USA"

Front 12.8 / 12.6 inch (325 / 320 mm)

Rear 12.8 / 12.6 inch (325 / 320 mm)



"UK"

Front 13 inch (330 mm)

Rear 12.8 inch (325 mm)

----------------------------------------

Stock values:

~ 14 1/2 inch (368 mm) all around



Lowered, results from my values:

~ 13 inch (330 mm) all around



Before install, I was worried about rub on pronounced weight transfer, hard bumps and full steering lock, especially on wheels that I suspected were 38 ET instead of 45. I still don't know what offset they are (rushed install), but they don't rub. Tested on full stretch of Mississauga Rd Erin Mills from Steeles to Dundas. I don't look forward to the construction areas where they've torn up asphalt and mark raised manhole covers with orange paint that you don't notice until it's too late.



Scraped audibly only once going down to parking garage. Learned my lesson, I now approach skewed, leaving or entering.


Oh yes!!! The scraping stories begin.


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[sheekeebut]

That's exactly where I'm heading. I'm waiting for tokico shocks and struts to go on sale somewhere to avoid damaging the stock ones.

Well, I don't know where you're from, but I've checked Amazon, ebay and a few online retailers, and either they don't ship at all to Canada, or they don't have the rear Tokico Blues spec'd for the Yaris (HE2987). They may have largely been sold out and pulled from production, as the new Yaris has come out. The post below says that the rear Blues for the Scion XD (HE2993) work fine,

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50466&highlight=HE2993

and they are still readily available, but I didn't want to run into any surprises with that, as Tokico clearly distinguished between these part numbers. Tokico Reds were out of the question.

[Side note]: Sorry cali yaris, I actually called microimage like a million times in one day to see if you ship to Canada. Got no answer, though. If it weren't for my impatience, I would've saved the $200 and gotten the Tanabe NF210s with the Tokico Blues. I wonder what my silver sedan would have driven like with those...

Either way, vaironl, I'm crossing my fingers, hoping you find someone here who's willing to sell a set.

[sheekeebut]

My good weather sneakers:
GP Racing GR-6 15x6.5 ET 45 flat black
Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/50R15

The previous owner of the above reported it was GP Racing, but the hole pattern (not lug holes) leaves me to think they're aren't GR-6. Google it up, you'll know what I mean. The reported offset is probable, judging from how great they fit.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9zPP06NJWb4/U6jEP_AO6fI/AAAAAAAADjI/Y02g7on2tv8/w320-h570-no/IMG_20140623_171008580_HDR.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2a1J_9KjWiE/U6jzgH8er9I/AAAAAAAADqM/qzMlkTQ4KLM/s570-no/IMG_20140623_195202566_HDR.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TlcRimQMMWE/U6jEJFZVbXI/AAAAAAAADiY/A5P24rJtS5M/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140623_170922361_HDR.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OWn4QRwmJBI/U6jzgCZulHI/AAAAAAAADqI/UY3stWM_DCk/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140623_194413866.jpg

[sheekeebut]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8Z6WhGh6iPg/U6jE7rbDHNI/AAAAAAAADno/kh11Gsp_97c/w958-h538-no/IMG_20140623_194544022_HDR.jpg

I stayed away from anything 16" and over
1) to open me up to (what I assume) more tire selection and more affordable tires
2) to give more sidewall cushion to the more affordable "replica" rims, coincidentally in my price range. Internet horror stories of knockoff rims shattering and shearing at the spokes left me paranoid
3) to avoid excess unsprung and enjoy any weight benefits that cast alloys may offer over the steelies
4) to reduce the daylight within the wheel, makes the brakes look properly sized. I detest the oversized look:

http://i43.tinypic.com/106he1l.jpg

The wife already thinks the flat black is a bit gaudy. I somewhat agree, but I couldn't pass up the kijiji offer.

I might get silver one day, if I ever find them in this size, or paint these ones some low-key "OEM" semi-gloss silver to blend in with the 401 herd. My practical side tells me I'll do nothing of the sort, as all this costs time and money better spent on a rear sway bar.

[cali yaris]

The 2993 rears are just fine (in fact, feel better) on the Yaris. We've sold dozens of sets with no problems, no failures, and no complaints.

Happy to ship to Canada. Side note: I didn't get a million messages. Or a PM. Or an email, I *think*. Happy to PM you my personal cell phone number.

[sheekeebut]

The 2993 rears are just fine (in fact, feel better) on the Yaris. We've sold dozens of sets with no problems, no failures, and no complaints.

Happy to ship to Canada. Side note: I didn't get a million messages. Or a PM. Or an email, I *think*. Happy to PM you my personal cell phone number.

Then again, I wouldn't like to check a million messages. I'd think the caller was a jerk. :tongue:

[vaironl]

I have to save up for my school first, so in about 2 weeks I should be able to buy the tokicos from Garm. I saw them at around $15 less on a website, but I prefer to order from microimage. I made Garm go through hell with a purchase and he still treated me really nice :laugh:.

By the way you could have save some money with the springs, but now you do have adjustable height. In case of horrible winters/weather you have the option to raise the car.

And also, those pictures are sexy!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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[sheekeebut]

Thanks! For once, somebody who doesn't berate me for not going slammed! It's like peer pressure, I tell you.


And you're right about the adjustability. It's my nature to tweak things, so this worked out well. I'd like to keep adjustments to a minimum though, because alignments aren't cheap.

I take it you're all too familiar with winters. Are you from the GTA?


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[yariseggvvti]

Thanks! For once, somebody who doesn't berate me for not going slammed! It's like peer pressure, I tell you.


And you're right about the adjustability. It's my nature to tweak things, so this worked out well. I'd like to keep adjustments to a minimum though, because alignments aren't cheap.

I take it you're all too familiar with winters. Are you from the GTA?


Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

I didnt do any alignement at all and I had install adjustable front sway link too. I dont see or feel any problem to aliigment. I think those tech are b.s about aligments. it costs 150 each time.

[sheekeebut]

I didnt do any alignement at all and I had install adjustable front sway link too. I dont see or feel any problem to aliigment. I think those tech are b.s about aligments. it costs 150 each time.

Well it's true that after install and lowering, it neither pulls to one side nor tilts the wheel, which I guess is a good sign. And I can't tell for sure, but the Yaris seems more confident holding the front end at turns, at the same time feeling like the steering wheel is a bit more compliant, though sluggish, if you get what I mean. I'm pretty sure that the front camber and toe could be adjusted a bit to reflect the drop, if only to assign some quantifiable before/after parameters and be absolutely sure that there's nothing uneven going on.

And after reading Tamago's writeup

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14026

I'd be interested in adding a touch more toe-in and negative camber over stock, if they're not at that spot already. And if I feel a little adventurous, I'll try that flat washer shimming on the bolts between rear hubs and axles to get my rear toe and camber set. Those, after all, can be reset to "defaults" without needing the shop's rack, right?

Sure, it's only 1 1/2" (38 mm) of lowering, but I only intend to make up to 1/2" (13 mm) of adjustment up or down anyway. Assuming this logic works, if the alignment is set to my "midway" height -- the parameters of which you can bet will be recorded for future reference -- there should be no real need for realignment afterwards, as long as I stay within that +/- 1/2" of adjustment. Not like I'll miss anything far below or above that.

And the place I'm having it done at will let me dictate some last minute adjustments of my own while the thing's up on their lift. $102 gets all that done, and for quite some time afterwards I doubt I'll need it redone.

[sheekeebut]

And thanks to microimage resources

http://microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php?4232-YARIS-REPAIR-TECH-TSB-FILES
More specifically http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/Repair%20Manuals/Suspension.pdf starting at page SP-59 (pdf file page 61)

I can visualise the axles' mounting plates and bolt patterns without even having to jack my car up.

[sheekeebut]

Lol headlights ...I have been meaning to do same after I lowered my Yaris

sent from Mars using Moto g !

Well, this walks you right through it.

http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/Repair%20Manuals/Lighting.pdf

Starting at page LI-88 (pdf page 89)

[sheekeebut]

And hey Garm. Like Yoda, but wiser and more powerful you are.

Thanks for managing pretty much everything I need to know about my car.

[vaironl]

And thanks to microimage resources

http://microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php?4232-YARIS-REPAIR-TECH-TSB-FILES
More specifically http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/Repair%20Manuals/Suspension.pdf starting at page SP-59 (pdf file page 61)

I can visualise the axles' mounting plates and bolt patterns without even having to jack my car up.

Thanks a lot for diggin this up, I totally forgot about the MI PDF section I'm gonna have to do more research on the alignment stuff... I don't know if it's to the car, tires, or what the heck. I have to change my two front tires soon as they are rotting.

[sheekeebut]

Wait I don't get it. Something wrong with your ride, vaironl?

[vaironl]

Wait I don't get it. Something wrong with your ride, vaironl?


Sorry I typed that message in a rush. Right now my two front tires are rotting (actually since I got the car), so I have to change those.but after lowering the car I keep hearing the need to do an alignment after about a week or two. I'm just not sure if it's for the tires or the car itself or what the hell it's for. Let's keep in mind this is literary the first time I'm doing this so a lot of research must be done.


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[sheekeebut]

Most if not all posts I've been reading suggest 1 week/200km to "settle", then get the alignment done. Mine happens this Saturday.

As for rotting, wow. Are the tires that old?

[vaironl]

Most if not all posts I've been reading suggest 1 week/200km to "settle", then get the alignment done. Mine happens this Saturday.

As for rotting, wow. Are the tires that old?


I guess so, it was a car with around 27k miles on it. I don't know why but I have the feeling it might better to wait a bit more just in case (2-3 weeks)


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[sheekeebut]

I've already logged an extra 250 km (150 miles) since the installation. That does not play well with my OCD

[vaironl]

Put some new tires just today. This thread got me wondering and found a good place with low prices, I did get some really cheap tires called milestar, but the older ones were dry rotting (just learned that today) and had the risk of popping any time on me.

[cali yaris]

hehe, you're welcome. :smile: Don't forget, you only need a FRONT alignment -- don't let them charge you for a four wheel alignment. Nothing to adjust back there.

And hey Garm. Like Yoda, but wiser and more powerful you are.

Thanks for managing pretty much everything I need to know about my car.

[sheekeebut]

In fact, all the shops I asked were fairly up front (pardon the pun) about it. When I asked them if they were willing to use some washers I'd provide to have them do rear camber and toe, they said it really would use up their time, because that involves removing everything that bolts to the axle every time they need to adjust with another washer. A tech's time isn't cheap, and I respect that.

I think I'll try to figure out the rear settings myself after the front alignment is done. If the rear torsion bar's camber/toe are hard-set, I can't imagine any difficulty getting back to those settings by simply removing all washers.

[sheekeebut]

Put some new tires just today. This thread got me wondering and found a good place with low prices, I did get some really cheap tires called milestar, but the older ones were dry rotting (just learned that today) and had the risk of popping any time on me.
What tire size?

[vaironl]

What tire size?


195/60/r15 rear(new tires) 185/60/r15 in the front. I didn't even check at the shop :/ just asked for cheap tires. I also got a bit desperate and bought the tokicos from MI today lol. You guys wont even want to know the talk I had to go through with my mom.


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[sheekeebut]

Well, different tire sizes don't lend themselves well to tire rotations. That's why I don't want to stagger, nor get directionals. I'm on a budget, too.

Good on you though for getting the shocks before the springs, and not the other way around.

Is it the mom's ownership or yours?

[vaironl]

Well, different tire sizes don't lend themselves well to tire rotations. That's why I don't want to stagger, nor get directionals. I'm on a budget, too.

Good on you though for getting the shocks before the springs, and not the other way around.

Is it the mom's ownership or yours?


Moms but I have to pay for everything lol.


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[sheekeebut]

Sorry to hear that. So you've got all the expenses, all the responsibility, AND all the nagging and criticism?

Pretty tough, man. I've felt your pain.

[vaironl]

Sorry to hear that. So you've got all the expenses, all the responsibility, AND all the nagging and criticism?

Pretty tough, man. I've felt your pain.

I probably made it sound worst than it is. My mom just got a bit sad because of financial circumstances at the moment. She just had a baby recently so she doesn't work and I have to use part of the money from school/house/ and car payments to buy the shocks and struts. She's ok with it now. She also says that I shouldn't put money into a car that I will sell in the future :laugh:.

[sheekeebut]

Yeah, when it comes to resale value, modifications don't help at all. I've already accepted the fact that nobody cares about my personal preferences. They want to buy that car as close to new and original as possible.

At least you've gone with better shocks & struts. Should be a quick and painless installation, and I don't think you'll even need alignment done.

[sheekeebut]

So I've gone with most people's advice and stuck it out with just a 1.5" drop all around. It will take some getting used to, and I hope it hasn't fudged the roll couple much. Not like I'll be able to feel or measure it.

We'll see how that @$$hole Old Man Winter treats me this year, before I adjust anything else. I plan on a rear sway, then a short shift, probably in spring '15. Anything else afterwards will be simply for driver comforts, like a tint and low powered sub to complement the stock audio system. I do not expect this car to be a looker, EVER.

Thanks for coming to see the thread, everyone. Makes me feel special.