***DIY ENGINE SWAP***

[Jams11]

Hi ,
My 2008 yaris engine blew out due to lack of oil.
I found a used engine for $650.00
I plan on doing the removal end installation myself

I was wondering if ther is a guide or manual to make this undertaking less of a pain in ass for me.

Any comment or help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[CTScott]

You can grab the complete service manual from the Micro Image forum: http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php/4232-YARIS-FILES


It really is quite easy to do on a Yaris. Removing the hood, front bumper, and radiator support assembly makes it a much easier task. I personally find removing the engine and tranny together and putting them back in together to be easier than disconnecting them while still in the car (but, others may have different opinions on that). Before you begin, the AC system will need to be properly evacuated, as you can not pull the engine out and leave that system closed.

[jack black]

Did you have oil consumption or just forgot to put in?
I thought oil consumption was rare in Yaris?

[Jams11]

Just forgot. :-(

What do I disconnect first.
I like the whole taking out tranny with engine idea.
Can you give more details ??

That's for the post BTW

[CTScott]

Just forgot. :-(

What do I disconnect first.
I like the whole taking out tranny with engine idea.
Can you give more details ??

That's for the post BTW

I highly recommend snapping pictures of every bolt that you remove and every connector that you pop off. I also take a piece of thin cardboard and poke each bolt into it and label where the bolt came from. For nuts and other little things I use ziplock snack bags and label them with a sharpie.

Here's a general idea of my order of things:

Prep:
1. Depressurize fuel system by pulling the EFI fuse from the under hood fuse box and trying to start car a few times.
2. Have AC system evacuated
3. Remove hood
4. Remove wiper arms, wiper cowling, wiper motor and wiper tray

Main removal
1. Disconnect and remove battery
2. Drain radiator
3. Drain transmission
4. Disconnect axles from tranny
5. Remove front bumper
6. Remove bumper support
7. Disconnect radiator
8. Disconnect AC condenser and compressor
9. Remove entire radiator support assembly
10. Remove air intake/filter assembly
11. Disconnect all electrical connectors from engine and tranny
12. Disconnect coolant lines from engine and throttle body
13. Disconnect fuel line from engine
14. Disconnect tranny cable
15. Connect engine lift and support engine
16. Remove engine mounts and tranny mounts
17. Lift the engine and tranny out
18. Separate engine and tranny
19. Reverse the whole procedure

[CrankyOldMan]

:eek:^ If only it were really that easy! Please keep in mind that some of those steps involve special tools and/or experience to make them go smoothly. Other things to be aware of:

Spend a few hours reading the repair manual to get an idea of what you're in for.
Be prepared to have bolts/nuts break, shear, strip, disappear, or generally not cooperate.
Have all of the non-reusable parts on hand before you remove the first bolt. These will be called out in the repair manual with a black dot on the exploded parts diagrams.
Have a second vehicle on hand to make trips to the parts store
Be SAFE when you lift the vehicle. Have the right safety equipment on hand: jack, jack stands, chock blocks, cribbing, vehicle lift, etc.
Follow the OEM torque specs.

There's a zillion other things that I can't put to the front of my cortex right now, but that's a good start.

[CTScott]

LOL. Yeah, I definitely posted the cliff notes version of it

[Kar98]

Have you considered throwing in a 1.8 from a Matrix/Vibe?

[CTScott]

Have you considered throwing in a 1.8 from a Matrix/Vibe?

Or better yet, Scion XD, which is a direct drop in for the Yaris.

[nookandcrannycar]

Just forgot. :-(

What do I disconnect first.
I like the whole taking out tranny with engine idea.
Can you give more details ??

That's for the post BTW

Just curious (not chiding you), did the check engine light come on before the engine gave out?

I had my oil/filter changed at 274k+ on my 2007 Yaris (not burning oil at that point). I started a long trip at 282,615 miles. At 288k+ the check engine light came on. I immediately pulled over. I looked under the car...no leaks. I then checked the oil...not registering on the dipstick! I called AAA. The driver towed me to a nearby convenience store/truck stop etc. After the tow driver (an older guy) lowered my Yaris off the flatbed, I asked him what = the likelihood of engine damage given that I pulled over immediately when the light illuminated. He asked me to start the car. I did. He said it wouldn't sound like that if you'd done any damage to the engine. I bought and added two quarts. it was still half a quart low. Over the next 4,000 miles it burned 1/4 of a quart.

[xnamerxx]

pulling the motor is super easy, takes about 3-5 hours pulling it and about the same for install. Pull it from the front, it'll save quite a bit of hassle, you can also move the AC out of the way without having to evacuate it but make sure you pay attention to it when you pull and install the drive train.

[CTScott]

pulling the motor is super easy, takes about 3-5 hours pulling it and about the same for install. Pull it from the front, it'll save quite a bit of hassle, you can also move the AC out of the way without having to evacuate it but make sure you pay attention to it when you pull and install the drive train.

Interesting. How do you manage to leave the AC in place? Do you unbolt the compressor from the engine and split the condenser from the radiator and tuck them to the side?

I have AC evacuation and filling equipment, so I never fretted over disconnecting it.

[fnkngrv]

bags, bags, bags and a couple sharpies for documentation on the bags as to where the nuts and bolts come from is my best advice. That and be VERY careful when removing/installing the alternator and belt. It is very easy to damage the camshaft position sensor becauee it is right in the line of work. Also tbh 650 seems komd of high unless it has less than 10k miles. Be prepared to reuse or else keep your sensors for a rainy day. Scott's suggestion on the XD engine is a great idea when you are looking at the cost. It is a pretty cost effective way to give the chassis more pep and I doubt you would see any impact for the most part the fuel economy.

[CrankyOldMan]

I think you need to get the matching ECU, intake, throttle body, radiator and exhaust from the xD to have a drop-in solution. That said, the 2ZR-FE has an almost flat torque curve, so you get good fuel economy at most speeds.

That said, I think you really need to read over the manuals linked above before you just start ripping off parts.

[xnamerxx]

Interesting. How do you manage to leave the AC in place? Do you unbolt the compressor from the engine and split the condenser from the radiator and tuck them to the side?

I have AC evacuation and filling equipment, so I never fretted over disconnecting it.

I have an AC machine as well but I'm kinda lazy so didn't end up using it. I should say that I used a lift when swapping my motor so I pulled everything from the passenger side of the car so I didn't need to the front end off. The BS car doesn't have AC so it wasn't an issue when I pulled it from the front.

[ilikerice]

Have you considered throwing in a 1.8 from a Matrix/Vibe?

I believe an engine swap is above OP's skill. He is asking for a DIY R&R motor step by step play after Scott just linked the basic manual.. :iono:

[bronsin]

Just curious (not chiding you), did the check engine light come on before the engine gave out?

I had my oil/filter changed at 274k+ on my 2007 Yaris (not burning oil at that point). I started a long trip at 282,615 miles. At 288k+ the check engine light came on. I immediately pulled over. I looked under the car...no leaks. I then checked the oil...not registering on the dipstick! I called AAA. The driver towed me to a nearby convenience store/truck stop etc. After the tow driver (an older guy) lowered my Yaris off the flatbed, I asked him what = the likelihood of engine damage given that I pulled over immediately when the light illuminated. He asked me to start the car. I did. He said it wouldn't sound like that if you'd done any damage to the engine. I bought and added two quarts. it was still half a quart low. Over the next 4,000 miles it burned 1/4 of a quart.

About 2 or 3k ago my oil pressure sensor blew out and slowly leaked oil. I saw the leak and thought it was the oil filter which I had recently changed. It still leaked and the oil light came on after tightening the filter. Like you I pulled over and had the car towed to Toyota.

Still runs OK! :bow:

[nookandcrannycar]

About 2 or 3k ago my oil pressure sensor blew out and slowly leaked oil. I saw the leak and thought it was the oil filter which I had recently changed. It still leaked and the oil light came on after tightening the filter. Like you I pulled over and had the car towed to Toyota.

Still runs OK! :bow:

:thumbsup:. I had the oil and filter changed yesterday at 293,890 miles (wanted to be zero down rather than 3/4 of a quart down....plus (even with 2 newer quarts of oil) my last filter change was 19-20k miles ago). There was a new guy at the front desk. I thought he was going to faint when he learned how many miles were on the car and how many miles since the last filter change :biggrin:.

[dumpstar]

pulling the motor is super easy, takes about 3-5 hours pulling it and about the same for install. Pull it from the front, it'll save quite a bit of hassle, you can also move the AC out of the way without having to evacuate it but make sure you pay attention to it when you pull and install the drive train.

Have you done a hatchback or a sedan? Also, is it easier for an automatic or for a standard shift or are they the same?
I need to put a new used engine into a 2008 automatic hatchback.... Trying to decide whether to go down with the engine and transmission, or up with just the engine... :confused: