slippery/airy OEM tires and suspension?

[scoobopdan]

I just got an '08 Yaris and it's been a while since I've driven a car with such skinny tires but I wanted to get others' opinion. It seems like I'm gliding along the cement sometimes, especially at higher speeds and going over bumps. It's hard to explain but it's like hitting small patches of ice. The car's suspension seems very soft to me, so I thought that might be the issue. But then I thought about how skinny the tires are and thought maybe I am actually sliding around. All parts are OEM, has anyone else experienced this? I'm planning on either tightening the suspension or shelling out money for fatter rims to try and fix it.

[sheekeebut]

Try losing control on purpose in a parking lot. Either you grip and your ride is really silky OEM smooth, or you drive like a pro maniac and really do skid. I hope for the latter, and that you get some sweet rims and wider tires for us all to see.

[aspro]

I just got an '08 Yaris and it's been a while since I've driven a car with such skinny tires but I wanted to get others' opinion. It seems like I'm gliding along the cement sometimes, especially at higher speeds and going over bumps. It's hard to explain but it's like hitting small patches of ice. The car's suspension seems very soft to me, so I thought that might be the issue. But then I thought about how skinny the tires are and thought maybe I am actually sliding around. All parts are OEM, has anyone else experienced this? I'm planning on either tightening the suspension or shelling out money for fatter rims to try and fix it.

You're probably just not used to driving with skinnier tires. They have a smaller contact patch with the ground which will in turn create less noise and less feel of the road which is why you are experiencing this.

If you want to really feel more of the road then lower it with some stiffer springs and go to a wider tire with a smaller side wall. Or just enjoy a buttery soft OEM ride.

[why?]

Yea, especially on the stock tires you will slide around a bit, it is fun. Just remember you are not driving a sports car, you are driving a car for gas mileage. Or go buy some Star Specs if you want to handle.

[nortonfb]

All your tires the same? Checked pressure?
Norton

[scoobopdan]

Pressure is on and the tires are all the same. Let me ask this then, in an effort to save some money, what do you think would be more beneficial. Stiffer lower suspension or wheels?

[aspro]

Pressure is on and the tires are all the same. Let me ask this then, in an effort to save some money, what do you think would be more beneficial. Stiffer lower suspension or wheels?

It all depends what you are looking for and what you are willing to sacrifice. Wheels and tires would probably be your safest bet and cheapest (for the most part). But if you do just lowering springs that are stiffer then that will be cheaper but not the best performance in comparison to say a coilover but a coilover kit may be too wild for what you are looming for. I would say start with rims and rubber and then depending on your budget work towards the suspension. If it was my car I would do a coilover kit and then wheels and tires at the same time because they compliment each other.

But start with rims and rubber and determine then where you want to go from there. And remember, you get what you pay for so do your research. Advice on rims, stick with a 15" rim, look for a lighter weight rim (I'm running Koenig feathers best bang for your buck I would say) and get a good all around tire that is within the same diameter of the stock tire but something slightly wider to give you more tire on the ground. I'm running a 15x6.5 rim with 38 offset on on bfg comp 2's 195/55/15r tires. Love love love this set up. Car is easier to get up to speed with the saved weight, handling is amazing and they are much more comfy than the original rims/tires and waaaaay better than my 16" rims/tires that I had last.

Good luck.

[scoobopdan]

That's pretty much what I was leaning towards. Easier to install too. Ok so here's a question like my last thread my helpful friend, did you use a site to shop for rims? It's seriously been 5 years since I've owned a car and I don't remember any of my websites :(

[aspro]

That's pretty much what I was leaning towards. Easier to install too. Ok so here's a question like my last thread my helpful friend, did you use a site to shop for rims? It's seriously been 5 years since I've owned a car and I don't remember any of my websites :(

I bought from a Canadian site. Being that you are from the US I would suggest taking advantage of the better prices available to you locally such as www.tirerack.com

[WeeYari]

Discounttiredirect.com ftw


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[willieG]

don't forget about a rear sway bar. Made a nice improvement for me. lowering after also made it feel better. And then tyres with less sidewall movement or lower profile made alot of difference after lowering and sway bar. but bigger heavier wheels slows it down a bit

[kimona]

I agree with WeeYari. For pretty good selection, great prices, and excellent customer service, this will probably be your best resource:


http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do?vid=026487&yr=2014

[aspro]

don't forget about a rear sway bar. Made a nice improvement for me. lowering after also made it feel better. And then tyres with less sidewall movement or lower profile made alot of difference after lowering and sway bar. but bigger heavier wheels slows it down a bit

Couldn't agree more on the rear sway bar. Definitely a worthy investment for the car. It will tighten everything up and make the car feel a lot more stable in the corners. I've got a TRD rear sway bar and I love it, very easy install too. And they can be had now for $150-$180 depending where you get it from.

[scoobopdan]

sway bar is a great idea that I totally forgot about. Can one of you guys with a hatch snap a picture of yours when you get a chance? I just want to see how much of the boot it takes up, thanks!

[WeeYari]

^ your thinking of the wrong bar. The rear sway bar is under the car, attached to the lower shock mounts. It is the only bar that really does any good for the daily driver.

[Exiwolfman]

sway bar is a great idea that I totally forgot about. Can one of you guys with a hatch snap a picture of yours when you get a chance? I just want to see how much of the boot it takes up, thanks!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/05/de9e7826150206d9f83bf432c1c642a3.jpg

sent from my S4 on Mars

[Gogogordy]

sway bar is a great idea that I totally forgot about. Can one of you guys with a hatch snap a picture of yours when you get a chance? I just want to see how much of the boot it takes up, thanks!

I installed the TRD bar 3 days ago. (Wondering now why I didn't do it 3 yrs ago!)
Big improvement. Huge.

[sheekeebut]

TRD bar complemented my coilovers nicely. It's got poise.

[aspro]

TRD bar complemented my coilovers nicely. It's got poise.

What kind of coilovers do you have, sheek?

[sheekeebut]

Tein Street Basis. I overpaid, but it was well worth it!

[aspro]

Tein Street Basis. I overpaid, but it was well worth it!

That's OK. When you over pay you tend to make sure you take care of the parts haha.

[scoobopdan]

^ your thinking of the wrong bar. The rear sway bar is under the car, attached to the lower shock mounts. It is the only bar that really does any good for the daily driver.

You're totally right, I think my brain fart was thinking of a roll bar or something of the like. Thanks for taking a picture my man. I think I might do rims - sway - suspension and just see how it goes. The specs on the OEM wheels are 5.5" wide, if I went to a 7" (thinking about 6" but just for arguments sake) that's essentially adding a 5th tire... just fun food for thought I had today haha. Thanks for all the input guys

[scoobopdan]

Ok so here's a question sheek, I like to do my work at home. I've done a lot to cars but never a full suspension swap, is it something you can do with the right tools and time or better to take to a shop?

[WeeYari]

^ most everybody on here who is lowered has done the job themselves. It is not hard with the right basic tools and the help of a few DIY threads on here.


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[aspro]

Yeah its a very easy car to work on. The hardest part will be working in tight spaces and getting parts to cooperate with you on the way out if they have been abused over the years from weather damage, rust etc. I did my coilover kit with a friend of mine with sprig compressors, an air impact gun and some wrenches. Thankfully my ocd with oil spraying the car paid off as my parts came out without hassle. The actual steps of removal and install of suspension components is very easy.

[sheekeebut]

Another valuable resource: a friend who can help you with the work. Sometimes simply that extra pair of hands is all it takes.

[sheekeebut]

Essentials are garage space, spring compressor, bunch of metric wrenches and sockets, usual screwdrivers, and floor jack. Air or impact tools would greatly reduce dismounting time, but of course not essential, and if you're wondering about doing it right, better to learn your first suspension install with hand tools first. It gives you a good feel of what every part needs to do.

Really the only thing I wish I'd had was that offset wrench for the strut towers. Not absolutely needed, but that would make you look so pro during install. For like $20, I might get it just to make my future suspension installs that much more fulfilling.

[sheekeebut]

My coilovers thread summarises my lowering adventures, with manuals and measurements and pictures and other good stuff.

[WeeYari]

Depending on age and location of vehicle, a good liberal spray down of all nuts involved with Liquid Wrench the night before can't hurt.

[sheekeebut]

^ what wee said. Some preventive lubing of parts is nice, too. I used anti-seize compound on basically every thread that prescribes a torque figure, with exception of (of course) lugs, and height adjustment threads (and it wouldn't hurt there).
This upon advice from brother and fellow modder Telly.

Oh, about torquing. That's why hand tools are great. If you don't have torque wrenches, you're still okay, as long as you use hand tools, because your own sense of paranoia (for lack of other words) and the tightening itself will probably give you an idea how tight it should be.

[WeeYari]

Anti-seize on reassembly FTW!

[why?]

For gas mileage the weight of the wheels is extraordinarily important. The lighter the better, and the amount of money you want to spend is important too.

Also don't forget aftermarket pulleys and a lightweight flywheel. Not only do they free up some power, they make the car feel a ton better.

Coilovers really are extreme unless you are going to use the adjustments and maybe take it to an autocross or track. I love my Megans but I have not needed to adjust them at all.