SRI or CAI

[YogiYaris]

Ok I know that this is a pretty stupid question but I have looked to find the answer to my question and I don't have the money to test right now. I hope I don't lose credibility points for this but here we go: Has anyone done any serious Dyno test on SRIs' and CAIs'? Is one better at a certain RPM range? Does one add more torque and the other more horsepower? I am not looking for peoples opinions on them I have had the weapon-r secret weapon intake before and I found it to be pretty impressive but it was for my Tiburon which was a 6 cylinder. I really want to see if anyone is or has done a dyno or log proofed test or two. Also what is the deal with this guy "Chino Charles"? intake? Is his intake suppose to do something special or is everyone waiting on him to get down just because he is a special member of the Yaris community? Sorry about the noob comments guys but I am trying to find out as much information as I can.

[eTiMaGo]

IN GENERAL:

Short rams improve power low in the rev range, while cold air intakes benefit the high rpm power better. As a result, if you're only looking at numbers, a CAI can seem to give you better results, as the peak horsepower is improved.

But, a short ram will definietely improve the day-to-day driveability of the car, as this engine is quite lacking in the low-end torque department.

At the moment there are quite a few options for CAIs: TRD, AEM, Fujita, can't think of more off the top of my head.

For short rams, there's the Blitz one, but it's not really that short, just a replacement for the stock air box, the Weapon Research one, and ChinoCharle's work in progress intake.

People have high expectations for ChinoCharles' intake, mainly because he is a member here, he is dedicated to making a good product with tangible power gains, and perhaps most importantly, it should be a lot cheaper than the competition :biggrin:

[Ran Kizama]

I got the Fujita myself since WeSellCarParts.com (a site sponsor) has an excellent deal on them now. Also, even though it a new company, you should know that the person who started Fujita was a chief designer at Injen so you know it'll be a good product. :smile:

[WeSellCarParts]

The Fujita has been tested and has seen great gains. We highly recommend their product, but there are others out there. A lot of peole worry about hydro locking with CAI's but the Fujita sits in the fender very well and is protected.

Thanks :)

[ChinoCharles]

SHORT RAM VS. COLD AIR: Advantages and disadvantages, Yaris specific

SHORT RAM INTAKE
Advantages:

Shorter piping = higher flow at wide open throttle
Shorter distance from filter to throttle body make SRI's a lot louder than CAI's (some would call this a disadvantage)
Filter well protected from road hazards like standing water

Disadvantages:

Takes warmer air from engine bay [translates to decreased air density entering cylinder]
Power increase highly dependent on RPMs and ECM parameters




COLD AIR INTAKE
Advantages:

Longer piping keeps power more steady throughout the powerband
Colder air translates to higher air density entering the cylinder, which translates to more power
TRD backed design

Disadvantages:

Filter placement leaves it vulnerable to road hazards
Longer piping results in less flow vs. SRI @ wide open throttle




Current Choices:
TRD [CAI]
AEM [CAI]
Fujita [CAI]
Blitz [SRI]
Weapon R [SRI]
XLR8 [SRI]

Facts:
[1] TRD and AEM are the same design, as the TRD intake is just the AEM intake with a bypass valve
[2] K&N built the intake for the TEIN Yaris as a supposed one time deal, and they are not planning on releasing that intake to the public. K&N does have a "Typhoon" intake for the older Yarii, but nothing for the 05+ NCP91.
[3] Fujita is the best sounding CAI for the Yaris at this time.

To date there has never been a massive shootout between intake manufacturers for the Yaris, although I would love to see one and would be more than willing to donate one of my intakes to stand the test with the big boys. It sounds like a job for Siphon Magazine, although I wouldn't count on it. Past that, you're left to rely on dyno sheets, and trust me when I tell you that I wouldn't rely on those either. What is stopping any company from doctoring their gains in order to sell an intake or two? Independent research is the way to go. 10 out of 10 scientists would agree.

As far as mine goes, it is a short ram very similar in design to what you see on the TEIN Yaris in Siphon magazine last month. The cone-shaped design was something we stumbled upon largely by accident, but at this point I'm banking on the fact that that is the key to making an uber-efficient SRI for the Yaris. Basically, we got lucky. Luck never hurts I guess. Having said that, I expect to build the ultimate intake for this car. If I expected any less I wouldn't bother. Whether it will be or not... jury is still out.

Hope that clears things up a bit.

Also, if anyone has anything to add to this post, post corrections in this thread and I will edit this post.

[WD-40]

I'm at a toss up on either CAI or SRI as well ..
My bigger concern is what filter is better, oiled like most or dry like AEM.
I read that the oil will screw up the MAF sensor.
I asked WeSellCarParts about the Fujita filter and got a crazy answer back that it was a dry but lightly oiled.
I am very tempted to get the Fujita CAI and toss the filter for an AEM Dry filter.
:help:

[Doc Zaius]

Holy nice post, Charles!! :thumbsup:

[ChinoCharles]

The whole debate about oiled filters screwing up MAF and MAP sensors is :bs:.

Oiled filters are superior to dry filters. Period. Why do you think K&N has developed the reputation they have today? They developed the first oiled filters more than 30 years ago, and to this day it stands as an industry standard. The benefit oiled filters provide is simple. In a dry filter, particulate matter caught by the filter element is dispersed randomly. In other words, in a dry filter you will inevitibly have spots where dirt has saturated the filter to a point where that particular spot in the filter no longer breathes. Right next to that there may be a totally clean spot. This will eventually affect the flow through the filter and make it sporatic. In an oiled filter, dirt actually becomes an advantage! By saturating the filter element with oil, you are essentially adding a second filter to your car. As dirt builds up on the outside of the filter, it is attracted within the filter by the oil. The oil helps disperse this dirt evenly and this dirt in turn provides yet another matix of matter air has to pass through before entering your intake tubing... hence a second filter. When smaller particulate matter starts saturating an oiled filter and begins to close the gaps between larger dirt particles suspended in the oil, that is when you call an oiled filter clogged. Therefore, oiled filters go longer inbetween cleanings and filter better than dry filters. As far as oil getting into your MAF sensor... you're not talking about a cup of olive oil. As long as the oil is applied correctly you will see better results from an oiled filter.

Myth busted.

[eTiMaGo]

Plus, apparently, advanced modern MAF sensors now use some kind of an optical system that is impervious to spilt oil.

[ChinoCharles]

Plus, apparently, advanced modern MAF sensors now use some kind of an optical system that is impervious to spilt oil.

POINT! If you know how our MAF sensor is designed, you'll realize again how big of a crock that line of thinking is. Basically, all our MAF sensor does is route air upwards and against a small leaf of reflective metal. This leaf oscillates back and forth at a rate that is so fast, it makes the MAF sensor used on the Yaris and other cars the most advanced to date. An LED shines light on this leaf and a photoreceptor waits to receive this reflected light. The rate at which the LED's light is reflected back to this photoreceptor by the metal leaf determines timing and fuel curves. This is the basic idea of the Karman Vortex MAF. The small, delicate nature of the internals of this part is why it is so delicate and so expensive... but on a car setup to run 35+ MPG on 87 pump gas, it is easy to see why such a device is necessary.

Now, tell me how the hell oil is going to ruin that! Is it going to come off your filter and through the intake piping (near impossible), make its way up the stalk of the sensor (a half step short of impossible) and find its way onto the reflective leaf? (OK, seriously, stop worrying and buy OILED)

[eTiMaGo]

POINT! If you know how our MAF sensor is designed, you'll realize again how big of a crock that line of thinking is. Basically, all our MAF sensor does is route air upwards and against a small leaf of reflective metal. This leaf oscillates back and forth at a rate that is so fast, it makes the MAF sensor used on the Yaris and other cars the most advanced to date. An LED shines light on this leaf and a photoreceptor waits to receive this reflected light. The rate at which the LED's light is reflected back to this photoreceptor by the metal leaf determines timing and fuel curves. This is the basic idea of the Karman Vortex MAF. The small, delicate nature of the internals of this part is why it is so delicate and so expensive... but on a car setup to run 35+ MPG on 87 pump gas, it is easy to see why such a device is necessary.

Now, tell me how the hell oil is going to ruin that! Is it going to come off your filter and through the intake piping (near impossible), make its way up the stalk of the sensor (a half step short of impossible) and find its way onto the reflective leaf? (OK, seriously, stop worrying and buy OILED)

geek.

[KS SOLO]

I have the TRD CAI and it works perfect, it is not exposed to any road hazard as it is tucked in behind the headlight really. I am considering altering the foglight cover to make it "breathe" as the filter sits right behind it.

LD

[YogiYaris]

I was thinking of just getting the TRD CAI and then removing the fog light cover to allow as much air as possible to get to it. Although I think that the intake will get really dirty pretty fast this way.

[PetersRedYaris]

As long as the oil is applied correctly you will see better results from an oiled filter. Myth busted.

Yep, Chino is correct. The problem is, when you service the filter and re-oil it, it takes a lot less oil than you think and most people will "over oil" it. This excess oil can be pulled through and coat the MAF sensor. It happened to me on my Tacoma; After a careful spray with electrical cleaner and re-setting the CEL, everything was fine.

Oiled filters are superior, as is a SRI for the Yaris (IMO).

[07YarisOwner]

http://www.wesellcarparts.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=4150

http://www.wesellcarparts.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=4493

I am considering the above products I am expecting a 15-25 jump in hp and a 20-25 jump in torque is that being optimistic?

[Blenjar]

Read this:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4824&highlight=Intake+System

-- Blen

[ChinoCharles]

I am considering the above products I am expecting a 15-25 jump in hp and a 20-25 jump in torque is that being optimistic?


Yes!

[5spBlazer]

http://www.wesellcarparts.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=4150

http://www.wesellcarparts.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=4493

I am considering the above products I am expecting a 15-25 jump in hp and a 20-25 jump in torque is that being optimistic?

you must be crazy.

the viper doesn't get that much from a silly air intake.

[spkrman]

10 out of 10 scientists would agree.

maybe the 10 you asked, but I could ask/pay 10 scientists to say otherwise :thumbup:

nothing in this world is objective... there is always bias, because someone has to interpret the otherwise objective results.

[fu_im_from_texas]

POINT! ...Basically, all our MAF sensor does is route air upwards and against a small leaf of reflective metal.

Now, tell me how the hell oil is going to ruin that! Is it going to come off your filter and through the intake piping (near impossible), make its way up the stalk of the sensor (a half step short of impossible) and find its way onto the reflective leaf? (OK, seriously, stop worrying and buy OILED)

Oil will not ruin your MAF sensor...but it will refract the light needed for a proper reading.

Chino's sernerio listed above will happen if you over oil your filter (I think Peter mentioned this) which is easy to do. Under oiling will give you excellent flow, but little protection from dust and dirt. How can you tell if you have the right amount of oil? If your ECM goes into limp mode, and cleaning off the MAF fixes the problem...too much oil. If after 20k miles you have engine failure...too little oil...

I like paper filters.

[spkrman]

I like paper filters.


x2

[mojoyaris]

So what is your opinion on the blitz metal filter intake?