Quick 2007 Yaris oil change question

[desidude]

Hi friends,

Wishing you a very happy new year. My a partner owns a 2007 Toyota Yaris hatchback in Houston, TX.

It has about 95,000 miles on it. It is due for an oil change, and I am wondering what brand of oil (non synthetic) you recommend? And also what brand of filter?

Also, the oil change shop offers bulk oil and bottled oil, the bottled oil is more expensive. Any thoughts?

I am a newbie to car servicing and trying to learn, and yes I am reading the forum!!

Thanks,
desidude

[Kar98]

I wobble back and forth between Valvoline and Mobile1, whichever quick oil change station is more convenient that day, and I stick to what it says on the filler cap, 5W30, synthetic. At least that's what I tell them to put in. I'd hope that's what they do put in.

[bronsin]

Any oil that meets the requirements in the OM will work. I believe its designated something like SM or SN. You can find that on the label.

Personally I advise against having something like Jiffy Lube change the oil. Plenty of horror stories of their inexperienced workers doing damage...stripping drain plugs, under or overfilling crankcases, putting auto trans oil in etc etc etc.

[desidude]

Thanks friends. I was actually thinking of going to Walmart and getting my own oil. The Walmart near my house is nicer than most.

My regular mechanic is a drive away, thus I was thinking that instead of making the Trek to him, Walmart should be able to handle it...

Am I taking too much of a risk?

[WeeYari]

Am I taking too much of a risk?

You are over thinking it.

In the US have the Walmart service centers changed over to Mr. Lube like they have here in Canada?

[IllusionX]

You are over thinking it.



In the US have the Walmart service centers changed over to Mr. Lube like they have here in Canada?


Not all Walmart in Canada have Mr.Lube. There are about 45 or something stores in Canada that's were converted into Mr.Lube

On a side note, many ppl in the states have to travel a fair bit of distance to get to a Walmart, while I access 4 different Walmarts within 30 mins drive radius.

[sheekeebut]

Yaris manual says go anything ILSAC multi-grade.. Don't know what that means, but GF-4 is the minimum I find around here. GF-5 on the Mobil1 full synthetic I get when on sale, but completely unnecessary. It's just a bad, wasteful habit. Like smoking..

If you're in it for economy and reliability, I think you're supposed to go with anything conventional. It'll be the frequency of oil changes that will matter more, they (won't say who) say.

If you don't trust the oil change/tire guys, you're one of thousands. I don't trust them, because I used to be one. I've seen all sorts of crap at the generic oil/lube/tire places. I'd rather do it myself, so if I break something, I'll have a better idea of what got broken, I'll learn to fix it, and I've got no one to blame but myself for any automotive f'ups.

[sheekeebut]

As for choice of filter, I'd go with that second-cheapest one you find for your make/model.

For mine, I go with the mobil1 filter to match my oil, coincidentally on sale at the same time, and I get suckered another $5 or so, thinking I've opted for the quality product and therefore peace of mind.

[Ben_]

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 filters change every 7.5k. 10w20 as per the TSB

Will be using k&n filters from MI and 10w20 brand-x synthetic for my next change. I tear my oil filters apart with tin snips after changing and have seen 100% clean filters so far. Fingers crossed that it will continue happening

[bronsin]

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 filters change every 7.5k. 10w20 as per the TSB

Will be using k&n filters from MI and 10w20 brand-x synthetic for my next change. I tear my oil filters apart with tin snips after changing and have seen 100% clean filters so far. Fingers crossed that it will continue happening

My 1974 VW Beetle had no oil filter (and only 2.5 quarts of oil) and the bearings in the engine were still within spec at 250,000k miles. True it needed a valve job and pistons and cylinders every 100k or so. But that's probably because it was an air cooled engine.

So I doubt very much you will find junk in your filters! (there isn't any in a well maintained engine)

[IllusionX]

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 filters change every 7.5k. 10w20 as per the TSB

Will be using k&n filters from MI and 10w20 brand-x synthetic for my next change. I tear my oil filters apart with tin snips after changing and have seen 100% clean filters so far. Fingers crossed that it will continue happening


10w20?! That's way too thick at cold for North American driving...

[sheekeebut]

Like, pancake syrup.

[Ben_]

Pardon my french I meant 5w-20. I should really check these things before I open my fat mouth

[IllusionX]

Btw, I though TSB said 0w20. Not 5w20. :)

I run 0w30

[bronsin]

Just a thought here...

Would you really use 0-20 oil in 90+ degree temperatures?

Sounds too thin to me...

[sheekeebut]

Why not 5W30 as the manual suggests?

[Ben_]

5w30 is a good choice. 5w20 will be thinner and give better mpgs (in theory) and Toyota gave a service bulliten suggesting its use so either is acceptable

[NYC-SE]

5w30 is a good choice. 5w20 will be thinner and give better mpgs (in theory) and Toyota gave a service bulliten suggesting its use so either is acceptable

Does anyone have a copy of said TSB?

[nookandcrannycar]

Thanks friends. I was actually thinking of going to Walmart and getting my own oil. The Walmart near my house is nicer than most.

My regular mechanic is a drive away, thus I was thinking that instead of making the Trek to him, Walmart should be able to handle it...

Am I taking too much of a risk?

I don't know where in Houston you are, but there are places that are so cheap ($14.95 + disp fee + tax...$20.00 or less out the door for 5-30 bulk) in the area bound by FM 1960/State Hwy 249/I-45/and the Montgomery County line (Spring Creek), that it would just about be inefficient to DIY. Most places put a reminder sticker for 3k miles. I don't think you'd have to really worry about oil breaking down withing 3k miles, and you'd get a new filter each time as well.

[IllusionX]

Just a thought here...



Would you really use 0-20 oil in 90+ degree temperatures?



Sounds too thin to me...


Yeah, I don't think it applies to warm states.

[donpalino]

Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w30 (Walmart $27) and OEM filter (dealer), DIY, every 3300 miles, when possible. 90K in the odometer.

Two weeks ago was the exception, 4000 miles (round trip to Austin, TX from Boston). Oil changed Wednesday then Sunday.

[bronsin]

I don't know where in Houston you are, but there are places that are so cheap ($14.95 + disp fee + tax...$20.00 or less out the door for 5-30 bulk) in the area bound by FM 1960/State Hwy 249/I-45/and the Montgomery County line (Spring Creek), that it would just about be inefficient to DIY. Most places put a reminder sticker for 3k miles. I don't think you'd have to really worry about oil breaking down withing 3k miles, and you'd get a new filter each time as well.

One benefit to DIY (if its not cheaper) is you know your drain plug wont be stripped, the right amount was put in (3.7 NOT 4 which blew my oil pressure sensor) and auto transmission oil wasn't used. :headbang:

[sheekeebut]

And if you want 5W30 in, someone else won't take the liberty to use 5W20, telling you that it's better.

[IllusionX]

One benefit to DIY (if its not cheaper) is you know your drain plug wont be stripped, the right amount was put in (3.7 NOT 4 which blew my oil pressure sensor) and auto transmission oil wasn't used. :headbang:


4qt is correct. Or 3.7L

[lenzomaru]

I would like to use syntec oil, but as a way to save money as this will extend my oil change time, i currently change my oil at 5000km (dusty roads,day temp avg 31 deg c) with syntec i believe i can go for 10,000 saving me money for oil filters and also time (as i change oil myself) My yaris takes a little under 4 qts of oil

- 4 qt of castrol 10w 30 dino oil is $30 US
- 4 qt castrol 10w 30 full syntec $53 US

Since i'll be doing 2 dino oil changes in the same amount of time (10,000km) i'll have to buy 8 qts dino oil totaling $60 US as compared to $53 US for the full syntec during the same period (10,000) also i will have to purchase and extra oil filter ($20US) and my time to change it.

so the syntec can out for me

[nookandcrannycar]

One benefit to DIY (if its not cheaper) is you know your drain plug wont be stripped, the right amount was put in (3.7 NOT 4 which blew my oil pressure sensor) and auto transmission oil wasn't used. :headbang:

:thumbsup: I actually thought about the latter while I was writing the post, and have thought about the former in the past (it has happened to friends of the family).

[nookandcrannycar]

4qt is correct. Or 3.7L

The Brake Check chain (where I got myh last oil change) has a capacity part of their database that is updated with new models every year. The tech selects the model, and the capacity automatically populates the screen. He showed me = 3.9 quarts for my 2014. Second generation the same?

[canadian deacon]

I would like to use syntec oil, but as a way to save money as this will extend my oil change time, i currently change my oil at 5000km (dusty roads,day temp avg 31 deg c) with syntec i believe i can go for 10,000 saving me money for oil filters and also time (as i change oil myself) My yaris takes a little under 4 qts of oil

- 4 qt of castrol 10w 30 dino oil is $30 US
- 4 qt castrol 10w 30 full syntec $53 US

Since i'll be doing 2 dino oil changes in the same amount of time (10,000km) i'll have to buy 8 qts dino oil totaling $60 US as compared to $53 US for the full syntec during the same period (10,000) also i will have to purchase and extra oil filter ($20US) and my time to change it.

so the syntec can out for me

I used castrol syntec every 10000 km with a new filter in my 05 for my changes. It had 377,400 km when I sold it and no problems.

Do it yourself, recycle the old oil and save money.