very low boost possible?

[malibuguy]

On tercels you can run up to 4lbs of boost before doing anything to the ecu and fueling. I know this cuz i did it to my car and a few others. Can that be done on the Yaris as well?

The reason is i have most of the stuff gathered to turbo the damn car finally and the itch is really getting to me.

I think i asked this a long while ago but I cannot recall the answer

[CTScott]

My bet is no. Modern cars have such aggressive closed loop control of the AFR to optimize for fuel economy that you would be lean whenever you were in boost.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I'm going to attempt it in a few months. If it works then yeah, if not, I'll just lock the wastegate open until I can get fuel adjusted. But seeing as how the car run pretty rich from factory under heavy acceleration, I don't foresee a problem running 4 PSI.

[malibuguy]

Yeah. My tercel ran stupid rich na. At 3.5lbs i picked up nearly 30wheel and 3mpg and still was mid 11s afr. After 4lbs it would go into fuel cut.

[CrankyOldMan]

In theory you could use a Blitz S/C piggyback--assuming you could find one on the cheap. I haven't looked at what's inside of it, but maybe CT has. I've reverse engineered the throttle position switch, but that was all passive components. If there's a programmable chip in the piggyback, there's not much I could do with it, but I may be able to sort out the passive components.

I wonder if it would be possible to use a signal conditioner--or equivalent circuit--to modify the wideband signal to trick the engine into running rich. Hmm...

[Flammable]

On tercels you can run up to 4lbs of boost before doing anything to the ecu and fueling. I know this cuz i did it to my car and a few others. Can that be done on the Yaris as well?

The reason is i have most of the stuff gathered to turbo the damn car finally and the itch is really getting to me.

I think i asked this a long while ago but I cannot recall the answerWhy do you want to boost a Yaris anyway? These are reliable eco cars not hot rods lol

[Bluevitz-rs]

Why do you want to boost a Yaris anyway? These are reliable eco cars not hot rods lol


Very helpful. Thanks.


Sent from my iPod Touch

[CTScott]

In theory you could use a Blitz S/C piggyback--assuming you could find one on the cheap. I haven't looked at what's inside of it, but maybe CT has. I've reverse engineered the throttle position switch, but that was all passive components. If there's a programmable chip in the piggyback, there's not much I could do with it, but I may be able to sort out the passive components.

I wonder if it would be possible to use a signal conditioner--or equivalent circuit--to modify the wideband signal to trick the engine into running rich. Hmm...

The Blitz throttle controller that comes with the S/C is basically a poor man's piggyback. It simply takes the throttle position input and relative to that keeps the injectors running for a proportional amount longer. It contains a microcontroller and four FETs.

As far as the comment about the Yaris running rich, it really does not. If you watch the AFR on a stock yaris it runs around 13.8 when cold, then aggressively maintains stoich (14.7), until it goes open loop at WOT. At that point it seldom drops below 12.8.

[Flammable]

Very helpful. Thanks.


Sent from my iPod TouchSorry man just couldn't help myself. I read somewhere that EL Prototypes did an extensive testing on the 1.5 1 NZ-FE with higher boost supercharging and found the engine could only run about 5 psi of boost. The TTE supercharger only runs about 5 psi I believe. Also read the blitz charger of markyboys is running .7 psi of boost. You may want to talk with someone in person that knows about this stuff. Good luck!

[CTScott]

Sorry man just couldn't help myself. I read somewhere that EL Prototypes did an extensive testing on the 1.5 1 NZ-FE with higher boost supercharging and found the engine could only run about 5 psi of boost. The TTE supercharger only runs about 5 psi I believe. Also read the blitz charger of markyboys is running .7 psi of boost. You may want to talk with someone in person that knows about this stuff. Good luck!

You might want to do some reading before throwing out incorrect info. The Yaris 1NZ-FE has been proven to run reliably at 12 psi on stock internals and well beyond that with aftermarket rods. The Blitz supercharger (of which there are many people on here with them, including myself) runs at 6 psi.

The most critical component of reliability with boost is fuel control.

[Flammable]

You might want to do some reading before throwing out incorrect info. The Yaris 1NZ-FE has been proven to run reliably at 12 psi on stock internals and well beyond that with aftermarket rods. The Blitz supercharger (of which there are many people on here with them, including myself) runs at 6 psi.

The most critical component of reliability with boost is fuel control.OMG I told him I read it somewhere and is why he should talk to someone in person who knows about such things. Asking for advise on the Internet especially something this this is dodgy at best. Besides why am I the one that has to do the reading? I am not the one asking about boosting a Yaris.

[CrankyOldMan]

OMG I told him I read it somewhere and is why he should talk to someone in person who knows about such things. Asking for advise on the Internet especially something this this is dodgy at best. Besides why am I the one that has to do the reading? I am not the one asking about boosting a Yaris.

Because instead of contributing to the conversation, you chose to interrupt with an unhelpful, inane comment. If you don't have direct experience with the subject at hand--which CTScott and I have several years worth of--or something genuinely helpful to add, then please move on to another thread.

[ilikerice]

OMG I told him I read it somewhere and is why he should talk to someone in person who knows about such things. Asking for advise on the Internet especially something this this is dodgy at best. Besides why am I the one that has to do the reading? I am not the one asking about boosting a Yaris.

Yea man. I understand you are not a frequent flyer here at YarisWorld, but there is very little BS that gets thrown around here. And those who do throw that BS, gets called out pretty quick. Those who know the main contributers to this forum, know they can trust what they say and will have the data or results to back up what they claim.

The yaris is a great little car and has a lot of potential outside of the eco life. :thumbsup:

[WeeYari]

Flammable member for a month. Other contributors to the thread membership 4 years and greater.

The OP and other contributors are well aware of how the 1NZ handles boost applications, whether it be s/c or turbo, at 6+ psi. There have been many builds done and documented here over the years making this the largest repository of information anywhere specific to boosting the Yaris.

Of course you are going to get flamed for coming in here and stating you read something somewhere without a true understanding of what has gone on here in this forum since 2006.

I guess your screen name kinda makes sense...

Now let's get back to the business of establishing a knowledge base for sub 6 psi boost levels.

[Flammable]

I wasn't trying to start something was just having fun with the OP with my original post. Guess there isn't much tolerance here that kind of thing, my bad.

[WeeYari]

I wasn't trying to start something was just having fun with the OP with my original post.

That is what emoticons are for, to convey attempts at humour or good natured ribbing. We have lots of tolerance for poking fun at people provided that your messages can convey that intent.

[Flammable]

That is what emoticons are for, to convey attempts at humour or good natured ribbing. We have lots of tolerance for poking fun at people provided that your messages can convey that intent.That is why I put the "lol" at the end of my original post. I understand now I should not have interjected later with what "I read" about boost but I was not trying to BS the OP which was why I said he should speak with someone personaly that has knowledge about boosting. It was early in the thread still and I did not realize many of you guys know each other and have a tight bond and for that I apoligize. I will bow out of here so you guys can continue your discussion. Cheers.

[malibuguy]

Im well aware of the 1nz and its capabilities. Its more of 'what can i get away with since i bought a damn house'

I think soon ill start working on all the plumbing and getting it ready. Like i did with my tercel...i fooled around for the better part of 3 years before i finally got everything made for its final install and its been totally reliable for almost 35k

[taKuto]

I think if you changed to 1zz injectors o 4psi, you should be fine. Going to 1zz gave me a -15% LTFT throughout closed loop, so I'm interpreting that means it's putting out +15% more fuel.

Looks like i did this run 4psi, 0 fuel, but pulled ignition timing by -4 degrees

[CTScott]

Changing the injectors will help until the system "learns" that it has extra fuel and trims it out. That only takes about a day of driving to happen.

[malibuguy]

Does the factory have enough authority to yank back that much fuel? If so that is awesome. This may speed things along for me until i can afford a patch harness for my AEM

[CrankyOldMan]

Does the factory have enough authority to yank back that much fuel? If so that is awesome. This may speed things along for me until i can afford a patch harness for my AEM

It's not so much an issue of authority as it is PWM frequency range. In theory it can do PWM from 0% to 100%, but it could be artificially limited to a smaller subset in the control loop. It's likely to be controlled by a PID feedback loop (the same thing that keeps a Segway upright) that targets 14.7 AFR, but the coefficients might be such that they can't cope with dramatically larger injectors. I recall Lt Noogie trying the big grey injectors from a 2.4L engine and it ran too rich almost all the time, constantly throwing CELs.

[taKuto]

Forgot that you yaris guys have it tougher :P

[ilikerice]

My brain hurts every time I read these posts... I figure, if I read it enough times, it will hit me like a dump truck and that light bulb will finally shine brighter than 1,000 suns

[malibuguy]

Explain yourself?

[malibuguy]

Hoping to find out this in the coming months. I have everything I need. Including a patch harness finally. So if the car does not like things...slap the AEM and have her tuned.

First thing is the clutch...

[Bluevitz-rs]

I'm not sure on the newer computers but the older ones in the echo will only trim 20% max.

[CrankyOldMan]

First thing is the clutch...

Yes. The Blitz (and my ineptitude at driving a stick) killed the OEM clutch after about 2.5 years. I got a Clutchmasters stage 3 and it's been awesome. It took a week or so to get used to the additional pedal effort, but it's well worth it to be able to hook up and run hard with those extra horses.

[malibuguy]

I ran a ACT 4puck with a HD cover in my tercel and loved it. Pedel effort went up marginally over stock.

Probaby going to get a full face ACT with a HD cover

[KTS]

Personally i find the the additional pedal effort along with the performance copper clutch disc makes for a more normal feeling experience especially with the dbw throttle when engaging the clutch from a stand still

[sickpuppy1]

Thats because it needs to have the Fletzer bearing reamed,routed and rotated for a free flow press fit.

[malibuguy]

So attempting low boost is not going to happen.

Found out my wastegate actuator is 7psi...and I not spending money to get a lower one.

Just going to have it tuned at 7psi and leave it.

Its coming together gentleman. I am excited, and hope to have it all done by spring.

I start fabricating the intercooler and charge piping next week

[malibuguy]

http://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/fr/cp0/e15/q65/16112958_10155621768280278_5117343902124176558_o.j pg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=e2db71b90df95c48d1ff4b302d428dea&oe=591D192B

[Bluevitz-rs]

You can lower the wastegate spring pressure you just have to cut and add to the bottom of the housing. This is mine from the MR2 CT26 turbo. I'm not sure what stock boost was set at but I doubled the length and it now gives me around 6psi of boost. It starts to open at 3.5psi when I bench tested it.

[malibuguy]

I would think the heat from welding would damage the diaphragm?

[KTS]

http://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/fr/cp0/e15/q65/16112958_10155621768280278_5117343902124176558_o.j pg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=e2db71b90df95c48d1ff4b302d428dea&oe=591D192B
I am glad for you that it's coming along. What manifold are you using? And where did you get it and what did it cost? Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[malibuguy]

I think its a Zage manifold. I bought it unused from a member here years ago for $50.

Eventually Ill probably make my own manifold down the line to improve top end breathing

[Bluevitz-rs]

I used pulse TIG and only for a few seconds then blew it with compressed air. It works fine 2 years later.

[Captain Yaris]

This is what I'm hearing...
https://youtu.be/RXJKdh1KZ0w

[malibuguy]

I used pulse TIG and only for a few seconds then blew it with compressed air. It works fine 2 years later.

Ill keep that in mind for future projects. Im just going to let it eat @ 7psi...i should get 40-50 more wheel easily there which is plenty for me. I was originally planning for 5-6psi as my end goal.

Car makes 107/104 without the tooter, and 104/103 with it (but with more under the curve). Ill be removing that prior to final turbo installation.

Also pulse tig is for amateurs :tongue::biggrin:

[MugenRep]

Ill keep that in mind for future projects. Im just going to let it eat @ 7psi...i should get 40-50 more wheel easily there which is plenty for me. I was originally planning for 5-6psi as my end goal.

Car makes 107/104 without the tooter, and 104/103 with it (but with more under the curve). Ill be removing that prior to final turbo installation.

Also pulse tig is for amateurs :tongue::biggrin:

^I would be interested in the tooter spacer if you sell!

[invader166]

Whille we're all waiting for malibuguy to finish up his forced induction set-up, i'd like to also pose a question on this topic, seeing as it is a bit relevant.

Do you all think it's possible to run an extremely low positive intake pressure without ever having to delve into fuel control manegement? I'm talking about a practicly non-existant pressure, somewhere in the order of 1.5 psi...

[Bluevitz-rs]

As long as the computer is seeing the actual intake temps that should be fine.