View Full Version : Exhaust smell in cabin
2007 sedan with 180k on it. Lately I've been getting exhaust gases coming in to the cabin at idle. I always have my fan on fresh air. Do you think it's just the gasket in between the mani & down pipe? I know there was a tsb on this but i'm way beyond the 80k warranty lol. I doubt it's the ex mani gasket since the mani has a brace so there should not be much flex.
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WeeYari
05-04-2015, 09:55 PM
The way your 2 flanges have been compressed together tells me that your gasket is totally shot. That is definitely your issue.
Really? There is supposed to be a bigger gap?
WeeYari
05-04-2015, 11:48 PM
You have no gap. With an intact gasket in there you will have a gap of 3/16" or so. Also, the age and mileage of your car pretty much dictates the gasket is shot.
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tmontague
05-05-2015, 12:08 AM
Yup, what Yari said. The gap you should see is created by the gasket filling in the space of the gap. Your gasket is so worn down that it's just metal to metal.
With how rusted those bolts are you should be replacing them anyways to make it easier to do down the road. Spray them with a penetrating oil every day for a week before you want to do them. I'd also buy a set of sockets for rounded bolts that was my saving grace to get my bolts out and I only have 139'000km on my Yaris. I think the sockets are called bolt outs.
I hear ya. Looks like it'll be a fun job. Ordered up 2 new bolts, 2 springs & the gasket.
New partz. 30% off list, looking for a source who has a more aggressive discount.
17451-21070 gasket $30.15
90501-a0005 spring $3.62
90080-10291 bolt $3.38
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IllusionX
05-06-2015, 09:49 PM
Sounds about right. Convert this to CAD and they are way too expensive!
tmontague
05-07-2015, 12:47 PM
Get them off of RockAuto.com much better deal. The bolts aren't exactly the same as oem but they work the same. You may have to file down the inside of the washer so it fits all the way onto the bolt like I had to, but the savings is well worth the extra 5mins of time
Exiwolfman
05-07-2015, 09:29 PM
And by looking at the shape of the original ull need heat ...what ever u do don't brake them.
IllusionX
05-07-2015, 09:57 PM
And by looking at the shape of the original ull need heat ...what ever u do don't brake them.
I shot liquid wrench on the muffler one. Let it soak for about 5 mins and put the impact to take it out. It came out like butter. It did look like the front ones of OP.
I tried to undo it by hand, never again.
Exiwolfman
05-07-2015, 10:03 PM
I shot liquid wrench on the muffler one. Let it soak for about 5 mins and put the impact to take it out. It came out like butter. It did look like the front ones of OP.
I tried to undo it by hand, never again.
One can try that for sure I would be worried about the location its at ...muffler are not a big deal if u snap a bolt ...manifold is another story.
To be safe apply heat to the back over the nut than brake free with hand tool followed with air gun....i would also use an extractor socket.
Bluevitz-rs
05-07-2015, 10:18 PM
Yeah use a torch. A good propane one might get it hot enough to turn it orange and then crack it free. Don't just try and do it cold. More than likely it'll snap. I've done a few and know.
IllusionX
05-09-2015, 04:39 PM
Oh.. I jacked the car up and thought I'd do the gasket. Looking at the bolts, I just said no.
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tmontague
05-09-2015, 06:16 PM
My bolts looked the same as yours when I did them. I sprayed them w/ pb blaster from both sides (you can access threads from other side) and one came off fine. The other bolt stripped but I was able to get it off easily with a bolt off socket.
It's worth a shot and if it doesn't work just take it to an exhaust shop
Exiwolfman
05-09-2015, 06:40 PM
My bolts looked the same as yours when I did them. I sprayed them w/ pb blaster from both sides (you can access threads from other side) and one came off fine. The other bolt stripped but I was able to get it off easily with a bolt off socket.
It's worth a shot and if it doesn't work just take it to an exhaust shop
It's not worth a shot ...u got lucky.
If u don't have the means take it to any muffler shop it will cost lot less to fix something that has not been messed with.
You need a torch get it nice and cherry red than use a socket extractor to brake loss afterwards air gun if u like.
IllusionX
05-09-2015, 06:45 PM
Yeah, the other side is rusted completely smooth, I'm not gonna take a chance.
Will bring it to the shop next week or so.
IllusionX
05-16-2015, 02:24 PM
I just came back from the garage to get the gasket replaced.
I was warned at the dealer that aftermarket gaskets won't fit. Well, I got the one from RockAuto, and its slightly too big.
Exiwolfman
05-16-2015, 02:26 PM
I just came back from the garage to get the gasket replaced.
I was warned at the dealer that aftermarket gaskets won't fit. Well, I got the one from RockAuto, and its slightly too big.
And they don't last ....use Toyota one
IllusionX
05-16-2015, 02:39 PM
Its working for now. I will change it next year since the bolts are no longer rusted. I will be able to change it myself.
tmontague
05-16-2015, 03:25 PM
I noticed the ones I got from RockAuto are not snug like the original one. I still installed mine and noticed no issue or smell on my Yaris. I'll leave it on and in 80,000km i'll replace with an OEM one.
WeeYari
05-16-2015, 08:53 PM
My replacement gasket purchased from Napa. No fitment issues with it.
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You buy cheap you buy twice. I would never buy a part like this from Rockauto. Furthermore you do not want to heat up the bolt. You heat up the manifold so it expands.
My original gasket lasted 188,000 miles, not bad at all. My initial suspicions were correct. It was the gasket. Here is what was left of it and the bolts that came out. Slow cycles of heat and a steady hand. Thanks for the peeps who confirmed my problem.
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Bluevitz-rs
05-18-2015, 08:54 PM
Good job. You'll probably find you get better mileage now too.
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