Suggestion for Front Door Speakers

[nehal.hasnain]

Hi Guys,
I am driving a 2009 5-door hatchback Yaris (SCP-90 chassis) and I am planning to replace my front door's stock speakers. I have pre-selected 3 models so far, but I still have some queries & confusions before finalizing my purchase.

My pre-selected models are :
1. Pioneer TS-D1602R : http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/D-Series/TS-D1602R
2. Kenwood KFC-C1655S : http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/speakers/kfc-c1655s/spec.html
3. Kenwood KFC-1665S : http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/speakers/kfc-1665s/spec.html

My questions are :
1. Can I use any of these speakers in my 2009 5-door hatchback Yaris ? Will they fit properly on my car ?
2. Which one is the best pick among these 3 ?
3. My budget is +/-200 USD. Is there any other speakers that I can choose in this budget ? (only front door speakers, no tweeters/amps are required).


Thank You :thumbsup:

[brushforhire]

I put Polk DB6501 components in my car. I have had two sets in two different vehicles now and love them. Here would be a good Coaxial set (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB651S/Polk-Audio-db651s.html?tp=95), that would comparable to the components.
I have used kicker, MTX, and Infinity Kappa Perfects in the past. I highly recommend Polk.

[bairjo]

just an fyi...i had the inside panels off the area behind the doors, back seat area, on my 2 door HB to repair a dent. I noticed that those speakers were riveted, not scewed in place and looked to be a pain in the ass to remove because of the rivets. I don't recall if the door speakers are fastened the same way....just something to be aware of when you do dive into this project....good luck.

[nehal.hasnain]

just an fyi...i had the inside panels off the area behind the doors, back seat area, on my 2 door HB to repair a dent. I noticed that those speakers were riveted, not scewed in place and looked to be a pain in the ass to remove because of the rivets. I don't recall if the door speakers are fastened the same way....just something to be aware of when you do dive into this project....good luck.
Thanks for the heads up... i think i will take someone who did this before with me while replacing the speakers.. don't want to end up with a mess...

Sent from my GT-I9300I using Tapatalk

[nehal.hasnain]

I put Polk DB6501 components in my car. I have had two sets in two different vehicles now and love them. Here would be a good Coaxial set (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB651S/Polk-Audio-db651s.html?tp=95), that would comparable to the components.
I have used kicker, MTX, and Infinity Kappa Perfects in the past. I highly recommend Polk.
Thanks for the suggestion... just saw some reviews of Polk speakers.. specially DB6501.. it's a good choice..
Just want to know.. is it better than kenwood speakers ?

Sent from my GT-I9300I using Tapatalk

[brushforhire]

I love Kenwood's eXcelon series equipment. Never really was drawn to their speakers. I would think they sound good, but never used them myself. I wouldn't think they would be a bad choice though. If you get speakers from crutchfield, they send you wire harness adapters, speaker mount brackets, and detailed instructions on how to do the job. vehicle specific. Totally worth it, in my opinion.

[ZachKilby]

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SPEAKER-6-1-2-2-WAY-PIONEER-TSF1634R.aspx?pid=345865&menuFrom=1021693#Recommendations

What about these? Do you think they'd be any good?

[sickpuppy1]

I did a search on the last Pioneer tsf... and the only review I saw was from walmart , who is selling them for 22.00 bucks! probably not much of an upgrade really.
I'm another Polk DB6501 user, and love them. I'm using a Pioneer 65w/channel amp mounted under the passenger seat. Have the tweeter mounted on the pillar. Realize that if you use a standard coaxial speaker where its all down in the door, you will loose alot of the vocals and such as they are trapped down by your legs. Using a separate tweeter mounted higher brings out another dimension to the overall sound. Worth it !

[brushforhire]

Pioneer is a mixed bag. The stuff they sell at Walmart is garbage, which most people are familiar with, and as a result really earned themselves a poor reputation, IMHO. Now their higher end stuff they sell through actual audio companies is supposed to really good. I would stay away from those speakers.

If price is a real issue, then I would take these over the pioneers any day. Kenwood (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=95)

I highly suggest springing for a nicer set, it can make all the difference, in wishing you spent another $40 or so, because the replacements don't sound any better than the original junk speakers.

[nehal.hasnain]

Seems like everyone (almost) is suggesting Polk Audio DB6501 speakers. Here is an interesting confusion of mine....
Amazon says it fits with my 2009 HB Yaris. Whereas, Crutchfield says it does not fit. Which one should I believe ? And is this the speaker you guys were talking about ?
Amazon : http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
Crutchfield : http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/Polk-Audio-db6501.html

[brushforhire]

They will fit. I have them in my 07' Crutchfield plays it a little safe. I made my own 3/4" thick mounting brackets. I have no issues at all.

[nehal.hasnain]

Thanks :)

Sent from my GT-I9300I using Tapatalk

[brushforhire]

Keep in mind the DB6501 are components and the tweeters need mounted separately. Along with the crossovers. They also are power hungry and really sound so-so until they are amped up.

If you are not running an amp and just using a headunit to power the speakers, and do not want to mess with separate components, then I recommend the DB651S 6 1/2" speakers. They would be a bit more what you are looking for.

I will warn you that this is addictive.

My current setup is:

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X998 headdeck
Kenwood Excelon x700-5 amp
DB6501 components running bridged from the amp at 100 watts each side
JL 8W3v3 2x running parallel at 500 Watts.
No rear speakers.
All audio run through a Lanzar Optix 3B active crossover.
I made custom fiberglass boxes for my subs.

[nehal.hasnain]

Keep in mind the DB6501 are components and the tweeters need mounted separately. Along with the crossovers. They also are power hungry and really sound so-so until they are amped up.

If you are not running an amp and just using a headunit to power the speakers, and do not want to mess with separate components, then I recommend the DB651S 6 1/2" speakers. They would be a bit more what you are looking for.

I will warn you that this is addictive.

My current setup is:

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X998 headdeck
Kenwood Excelon x700-5 amp
DB6501 components running bridged from the amp at 100 watts each side
JL 8W3v3 2x running parallel at 500 Watts.
No rear speakers.
All audio run through a Lanzar Optix 3B active crossover.
I made custom fiberglass boxes for my subs.
Thanks brushforhire. I was planning to change my speakers only when I started this thread. But as I started learning about car stereo system, I am thinking of replacing the HU, get db6501 and feed them with an amp too. This is really addictive as you said.

Just a quick question. Two actually.
Question 1: DB6501 is 4-Ohm speakers. So if I use 100Wx2 at 4-Ohm amplifier, it will get 100W in each speakers. But the spec of DB6501 says, the RMS of this speaker is 10-100W. So 100W is the max RMS limit. Is there any chance of blowing the speakers if I use this amp ?

Question 2 : Is there any relation between HU volume control and AMP gain ? If my HU supports volume from 0-30 (just an assumption), and I feed the db6501 with 100Wx2 at 4-Ohm amplifier, will the speaker get less than 100 watt if it's running with volume lvl 2 and will it get approx 100 watt if I turn the HU's volume lvl to 25 ?

[brushforhire]

LoL. That didn't take long at all.

Question 1: On paper, it is possible, it actual real world situation, no. I would be shocked if it was possible to blow those with that amp. Those speakers will take a beating and half. I wouldn't risk 200+watts on any level, but I would even feel comfortable with up to 150 watts. That being said 100 watts will get you real nice and loud.

Question 2: I am not totally sure on this one. However, I wouldn't worry to much about it. The way the gain works, is that you set it to match the output voltage of the preouts from the back of the HU.

The gain basically sets the amp on how sensitive it is to the incoming signal from the RCAs. So if your HU is only putting out 1v, the amp will work much harder.
Now if your HU is putting out about 5v the amp does not have to work as hard, and can run cooler, and give alot less distortion at louder levels.

Alot of people want to use the gain as a volume knob and that is not what it is.

I do believe the louder it is, the more watts it takes basically. Sorta like it my amp is 900 watts, the chances of it pulling all that at once is pretty slim.

I hope that helps you understand a bit. Kinda like one of those things I know how to work, but not real sure how to put it into words.

[nehal.hasnain]

Okey. Let me put the question #2 this way...
Lets assume my apm has constant gain of 100watt and it has no gain control nob. So it's boosing everything to 100watt. Now what's the difference from speaker point of view at HU volume lvl 2 & volume lvl 25? At lvl 2, will my speakers get abt 30watt and ~100watt at lvl 25 ? Is it something like this ? Or the speakers will get 100watt all the time regardless of volume lvl ?

I am just trying to clear some confusions.. so any comment/suggestion is helpful for me...

Sent from my GT-I9300I using Tapatalk

[brushforhire]

The speakers will not get 100watts at all time. It is not linear, as in max vol. = 100 watts, and 1/2 volume = 50watts.

It is little tough. Because if you are sending a particular hertz to a woofer and it hits real hard you can have a peak watt moment happpen. This mostly concerns subwoofers, though.

Let me ask you this: why are you asking about this? What is you goal/concern?

[nehal.hasnain]

The speakers will not get 100watts at all time. It is not linear, as in max vol. = 100 watts, and 1/2 volume = 50watts.

It is little tough. Because if you are sending a particular hertz to a woofer and it hits real hard you can have a peak watt moment happpen. This mostly concerns subwoofers, though.

Let me ask you this: why are you asking about this? What is you goal/concern?

The reason I am asking this is because I am planning to get an amplifier without a gain control option. Just like Pioneer GM-D1004. It's small, fits right behind the dash. I haven't fixed my mind yet on this. Pioneer GM-D1004 is just an example.

Anyway, this particular pioneer amplifier has 2 suitable option for DB6501:
Nominal Power (RMS) Output at 4 Ohms : 45W x 4
or
Nominal Power (RMS) Output - Bridged at 4 Ohms : 90W x 2

DB6501 is 4 Ohm speaker, you already know it as you are using them.

Now, if you own a Pioneer GM-D1004 amp and want to use it with DB6501 for your front doors only (with the tweeter of course), how would you set it up ?
Will you use the 45W x 4 option and forget about other 2 channels ?
or
Will you use the Bridged 90W x 2 option and use the full power of the amplifier ?

If you want to check the full spec of this particular amp, you can visit this link : http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D1004

My decision is on your hand now... :thumbup:

[brushforhire]

I would run that bridged without a doubt. Take full advantage of that. You won't regret it with the DB6501 speakers.

[nehal.hasnain]

Thanks a lot :)

Sent from my GT-I9300I using Tapatalk