Is it a good idea to move from Synthetic oil to normal oil ?

[nehal.hasnain]

Been using 5W40 synthetic oil for last 1 year for my 2009 HB yaris. Now it's time for another oil change. Just wondering if moving back to 20W50 normal oil will have any impact on engine ? Or should I stick with synthetic one as it's used to with this type of oil ?

PS : average temperature in my country is 20-30 degree Celsius and it never below 20.

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[bronsin]

No it wont make any difference. Use what you like.

BTW the main reason you change the oil is because of contamination in the oil from the engine. It makes no difference whether the oil is regular oil or synthetic. Although technically the synthetic will hold together and lubricate longer than regular.

So you want to be very suspicious of people claiming you can leave synthetic oil in for longer drain intervals than the manufacturer recommends.

One thing synthetic oil DOES do is flow better than regular oil at temperatures below say 20 degrees F. So if you live where its below zero a lot it makes sense to use it.

Which in Bangladesh I don't suppose it does! :biggrin:

[IllusionX]

20-30°C is not enough to justify 20w50. It is only going to consume more fuel.

Synthetic or mineral oil, stick with 5w30 or 10w30 unless your cou try only sees 30+

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[Kalispel]

What's the best grade of oil to use in hot/dry climates like Phoenix, AZ?

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[Rigaud]

Just use a good quality oil, 5W30 as requested by Toyota. You guys are not racing on a track, don't need anything else.

[bronsin]

What's the best grade of oil to use in hot/dry climates like Phoenix, AZ?

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5W-30 is what the owners manual says for all climates but Phoenix gets to 100+ so you might want to speak to the service manager at Toyota and ask them.

Normally the OM is the bible for all such questions. However if I moved to Phoenix the first thing Id do is ask the SM at Toyota what they recommend.

[IllusionX]

5W-30 is what the owners manual says for all climates but Phoenix gets to 100+ so you might want to speak to the service manager at Toyota and ask them.

Normally the OM is the bible for all such questions. However if I moved to Phoenix the first thing Id do is ask the SM at Toyota what they recommend.
So what did they recommend to you?

You know some part of Canada regularly get 100+°F in the summer? I would say unless you live in the middle East, where temps stay 100+ at night, you don't need heavy weight oil.

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[bronsin]

So what did they recommend to you?

You know some part of Canada regularly get 100+°F in the summer? I would say unless you live in the middle East, where temps stay 100+ at night, you don't need heavy weight oil.

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Ive noticed people posting from places like the Middle East that they use 20W-50. Why I don't know. MAybe Toyota does? :iono:

Phoenix gets to 120 in the summer. Stop and go driving with the AC on under those conditions would be about the most extreme operating conditions I could imagine. I definitely would want some input from people with professional experience about what oil to use.

I have serious doubts 5W-30 is going to cut it.

[nortonfb]

The dreaded oil thread!
Here is my understanding of synthetic vs regular oil.
Dinosaur oil does not carry heat as efficiently as synthetic, lower sheer factor (less
friction reducing capabilities) and requires changing more frequently.
This would only make a difference in extreme conditions or use.
In high temps I would also recommend the use of Water Wetter.
In my water cooled Ducati on a hot day 90F+ my temps were very high, redline on the gauge.
Using Water Wetter reduced the temp by about 7 degrees.

[IllusionX]

Ive noticed people posting from places like the Middle East that they use 20W-50. Why I don't know. MAybe Toyota does? :iono:

Phoenix gets to 120 in the summer. Stop and go driving with the AC on under those conditions would be about the most extreme operating conditions I could imagine. I definitely would want some input from people with professional experience about what oil to use.

I have serious doubts 5W-30 is going to cut it.
I don't think temps are sooo bad in AZ to go all the way to 20w50. But like I said, they middle East guys use it because night temps are probably 100F over there. Lol

You are seeing 60's temps in the winter, I would def stay around 5w30 to 10w40.the

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[nookandcrannycar]

So what did they recommend to you?

You know some part of Canada regularly get 100+°F in the summer? I would say unless you live in the middle East, where temps stay 100+ at night, you don't need heavy weight oil.

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My blue Yaris = 'Phoenix Summer Weather Tested' :biggrin:, so to speak. Lots of stop and go as well. Also, have never done a cooling system flush on the '07 either......and I've never had any Yaris issues in Phoenix and always = running 5-30 oil.. That heat though.....:eek:....usually one of the only places in the U.S. that regularly has a summer heat index that exceeds any of the major Texas metros. One of my cousins lived within the Phoenix Metro for 10 years....and at certain times during the summer....he'd go to Prescott to escape that level of heat. AFAIK, my cousin always used the recommended in the OM oil weight for any vehicle (subcompacts), usually 5-30.

[bronsin]

I don't think temps are sooo bad in AZ to go all the way to 20w50. But like I said, they middle East guys use it because night temps are probably 100F over there. Lol

You are seeing 60's temps in the winter, I would def stay around 5w30 to 10w40.the

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I could see using 10W-40 in a place like TX or Phoenix. Now that the wifes Camry is at 123k miles and is starting to use a little oil, I put a couple of quarts of 10W-40 in for the summer months. I can go 5000 miles without adding a quart that way. (usually)

[Kalispel]

On my 2000 Accord, I started adding 'Bars Main Seal Repair' oil-additive to my oil at every oil change starting around 90K miles and it never "lost" oil again (sold it near 200K miles). Before that, it was using/losing at least a quart or so per oil change cycle (not sure where it went, but I never had any oil leaks on the ground under car or anything like that). It's an awesome product, and solved all my oil "loss" issues on my Accord for the 100K or so miles that I used it.

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[bronsin]

Before that, it was using/losing at least a quart or so per oil change cycle (not sure where it went, but I never had any oil leaks on the ground under car or anything like that).

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It was burning the oil but now with catalytic converters, the oil was being incinerated by the cat before it could appear as blue smoke out the tailpipe. IF you follow a car with hundreds of thousands of miles on it when it has just been started, you will see a puff of blue smoke every time the trans shifts. That's because the cat hasn't heated up yet. Once its up to temp...no more blue smoke.

[Ranger SVO]

Ive noticed people posting from places like the Middle East that they use 20W-50. Why I don't know. MAybe Toyota does? :iono:

Phoenix gets to 120 in the summer. Stop and go driving with the AC on under those conditions would be about the most extreme operating conditions I could imagine. I definitely would want some input from people with professional experience about what oil to use.

I have serious doubts 5W-30 is going to cut it.

And that's what I thought, but I was wrong. I go to Phoenix every summer to visit my mother-in-law. I usually spend a couple of weeks there then I go to Las Vegas for a week (I'm a teacher, so I'm off all summer).

I take either my 2010 Yaris or my 2012 Honda Civic.

I was concerned because Honda only recommends a 0W20 oil for the Civic. So I E-Mailed Mobil 1 back in 2013 about my concern, their response;

Dear Bill,

Thank you for your inquiry. Mobil 1 0W20 AFE does provide excellent high temperature protection and thermal stability is outstanding. It is certainly fine to use Mobil 1 0W20 in the environment that you described. According to the specifications for your vehicle, 0W20 is recommended and we highly recommend that you stay with your manufacturer's requirement.
Sincerely,
Mobil Help Desk
1-800-ASK-MOBIL

Well, if Mobil 1 0W20 AFE (what I use in the Honda) can handle Phoenix and Las Vegas temperatures, can't I assume that Mobil 1 5W30 EP (what I use in the Yaris) can also handle those extremes.

[Ranger SVO]

If in doubt about what to use, refer to the ownwers manual.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/wrf01a/Yaris%20Oil_zpst0bi1gdf.jpg

[bronsin]

If in doubt about what to use, refer to the ownwers manual.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/wrf01a/Yaris%20Oil_zpst0bi1gdf.jpg

Yes! And if you have a question about anything about your car check the OM THEN ask this excellent forum. :thumbsup:

The OM is the basis for all my advice. :thumbsup:

But there ARE exceptions! :biggrin: (see below!)

[bronsin]

And that's what I thought, but I was wrong. I go to Phoenix every summer to visit my mother-in-law. I usually spend a couple of weeks there then I go to Las Vegas for a week (I'm a teacher, so I'm off all summer).

I take either my 2010 Yaris or my 2012 Honda Civic.

I was concerned because Honda only recommends a 0W20 oil for the Civic. So I E-Mailed Mobil 1 back in 2013 about my concern, their response;

Dear Bill,

Thank you for your inquiry. Mobil 1 0W20 AFE does provide excellent high temperature protection and thermal stability is outstanding. It is certainly fine to use Mobil 1 0W20 in the environment that you described. According to the specifications for your vehicle, 0W20 is recommended and we highly recommend that you stay with your manufacturer's requirement.
Sincerely,
Mobil Help Desk
1-800-ASK-MOBIL

Well, if Mobil 1 0W20 AFE (what I use in the Honda) can handle Phoenix and Las Vegas temperatures, can't I assume that Mobil 1 5W30 EP (what I use in the Yaris) can also handle those extremes.

I respect what the OM says and it was interesting to read the letter Mobile sent you. You cant go far wrong to follow their advice. Especially since Mobile says do what the OM sez! :bow:

However! :tongue:

When your car hits 100k miles and you put 0W-20 (or even 5W-30) synthetic oil in it the oil consumption is going to go UP! Even more when its 120 degrees! My wifes Camry with ~120k uses a quart of 5W-30 (regular) in less than 2000 miles but only about half a quart of 10W-40 in ~5000 miles. Since synthetic oil is thinner I have to believe oil consumption would be even higher in that case.

If you have children like I do when they come to visit theres often no oil on the dipstick and 15 psi in the tires. :eek: Having been a car mechanic Im pretty sure the general public isn't to far from those things too.

[IllusionX]

Synthetic oil is NOT thinner! Viscosity remain the same (almost, since they cannot be exactly identical) between the 2 types of oil!

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[bronsin]

Synthetic oil is NOT thinner! Viscosity remain the same (almost, since they cannot be exactly identical) between the 2 types of oil!

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Better do some research. It is thinner when hot and oil consumption goes UP in older engines compared to regular oil. This used to be on the label when synthetic oil came out.

Not only that if you have oil leaks like an older engine is likely to develop it leaks out faster too.

[ojeysky]

Hello,

Though old thread, but I have noticed am loosing oil since I started using synthetic oil and Fram filters. My millage is about 130k, no sign of leakage and car runs well could the change to synthetic be the problem or Fram filters?

Regards

[tmontague]

Subthetic oil tends to leak/burn more in an old engine as it is thinner at cold temps and flows better into small spaces even if viscosity is identical. If you want the synthetic oil for cold starts then go with a 0w40 instead of a 0w30. Based on your location I dint think your concern is cold start so just switch back to a conventional oil or go to a thicker viscosity

[ojeysky]

Subthetic oil tends to leak/burn more in an old engine as it is thinner at cold temps and flows better into small spaces even if viscosity is identical. If you want the synthetic oil for cold starts then go with a 0w40 instead of a 0w30. Based on your location I dint think your concern is cold start so just switch back to a conventional oil or go to a thicker viscosity

Yeah I have no issue with cold start; lowest temperature here is 20C and that is occasional (it's usually above 30C), so what viscosity do you recommend I go for? By the way I was using 20w50 before but noticed performance improvement since I switched to synthetic 5w30 except that I loose oil. So what viscosity of conventional or synthetic should I switch to without loosing much performance and fuel economy?

[tmontague]

5w30 should be fine, but there is no way of really knowing if you exceed factory specs without knowing oil temp and/or pressure. None of which is available without an aftermarket gauge.

The only way going to a heavier weight oil makes sense is if you are operating above 212F oil temps, or if you want to reduce oil consumption and you notice it helps. You could try a 10w30 as they are slightly thicker than a 5w30 and potentially may reduce oil consumption. The difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 isn't very big however as they both have to fall into the same viscosity spectrum at 100C. Most 10w30's are a big thicker at 150C due to a higher HTHS rating but like I said, it may not be noticeable enough for consumption issues.

[ojeysky]

5w30 should be fine, but there is no way of really knowing if you exceed factory specs without knowing oil temp and/or pressure. None of which is available without an aftermarket gauge.

The only way going to a heavier weight oil makes sense is if you are operating above 212F oil temps, or if you want to reduce oil consumption and you notice it helps. You could try a 10w30 as they are slightly thicker than a 5w30 and potentially may reduce oil consumption. The difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 isn't very big however as they both have to fall into the same viscosity spectrum at 100C. Most 10w30's are a big thicker at 150C due to a higher HTHS rating but like I said, it may not be noticeable enough for consumption issues.

My oil will be due for a change in 2 weeks after adding the last litre of synthetic. I have tried looking for a conventional 5w30 or 10w30 with no luck. Am wondering if a semi-synthetic of 5w30 will not burn. Any thought?

[IllusionX]

My oil will be due for a change in 2 weeks after adding the last litre of synthetic. I have tried looking for a conventional 5w30 or 10w30 with no luck. Am wondering if a semi-synthetic of 5w30 will not burn. Any thought?What does the engine refill cap say?

Typically, oil weight tend to be quite heavy in tropical countries..

What oil is available in your country?

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[B.B._07]

My oil will be due for a change in 2 weeks after adding the last litre of synthetic. I have tried looking for a conventional 5w30 or 10w30 with no luck. Am wondering if a semi-synthetic of 5w30 will not burn. Any thought?

Short answer is no, oil burning is a symptom of engine wear (most likely worn piston rings). You can try to minimize the running by running a thick oil like 20w50 but the downside in somewhat lower fuel economy. Maybe look for a non synthetic 15W40 or 10W40.

[ojeysky]

What does the engine refill cap say?

Typically, oil weight tend to be quite heavy in tropical countries..

What oil is available in your country?

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5w30, 0w20, 0w40 all synthetic and semi-syn
Then we have 20w50 conventional, am told using this causes sludge and reduces engine performance. It's 5w30 on the engine cap and the car is USA spec

[2bz]

When the engine is up to temperature in Adak, Alaska or Phoenix, Arizona the oil is 250F.

[tmontague]

When the engine is up to temperature in Adak, Alaska or Phoenix, Arizona the oil is 250F.

I can tell you based off of my aem gauges (oil temp and pressure as well as coolant gauge) that this is not the case.

Middle of summer around here oil sits around 220F, in the spring when temps are not as extreme, the oil sits at 210F and during the middle of winter it sits around 180F. These temps are all while.driving on the highway for longer than 30 mins not in traffic, needless to say the engine is well up to temps

[dogsridewith]

Yes. Higher ambient gives higher coolant and oil temperature. Thermostats, or most thermostats, don't flip from full closed to full open at one temperature. In cold winter, a temperature gets maintained with little coolant flow. So the thermostat isn't very far open. In sweltering heat, the temp may not stabilize until the thermostat is nearly open. And more open takes a higher temperature. The thermostat has an opening versus temperature curve.

And coolant doesn't cool some places so well. The oil pan can be getting radiation and conduction from sub freezing pavement/air or very hot asphalt and the air it heats.

[tmontague]

Yes. Higher ambient gives higher coolant and oil temperature. Thermostats, or most thermostats, don't flip from full closed to full open at one temperature. In cold winter, a temperature gets maintained with little coolant flow. So the thermostat isn't very far open. In sweltering heat, the temp may not stabilize until the thermostat is nearly open. And more open takes a higher temperature. The thermostat has an opening versus temperature curve.

And coolant doesn't cool some places so well. The oil pan can be getting radiation and conduction from sub freezing pavement/air or very hot asphalt and the air it heats.

Very much so. In the middle of winter the oil will not go above 180F (give or take a few degrees) unless in a high.load condition. The convection from the oil lan and cold air is much too great to keep the oil at summer operating temps.

On the flip side, in my 2zr with 5w30 full syn oil (factory fill is 0w20) and coolant temps reaching 230F, the oil climbs to just above 280F and stays there until a cool down lap. That is at full WOT and close to redline rpm's though.

[firebird1999us]

Royal Purple 5w30 for the entire life of the car so far... I'm at 358k miles with no leaks or engine issues thus far!

[IllusionX]

Royal Purple 5w30 for the entire life of the car so far... I'm at 358k miles with no leaks or engine issues thus far!That's cool.

I've started with a syn oil change at the dealer. (Mobil1) after that I've used RP many years with 6000km intervals. RP became hard to come by, or prices in local shops are way too high.

Then I've used Prolabs oil for a while. They are a local company but with time, I've lost contact with the person who could get it for me.

In recent years, I've switched to Amsoil.

Today, I noticed my rear bumper being a little black. Makes me wonder if my engine is taking a little oil. I did not get a full gallon of oil out on my last drain. I'm also abusing the engine a little as well, since it doesn't get many chances to fully warm up before I arrive to destination for the past 10years.

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[2bz]

Oh for God sake not another oil post! Make it stop! Listen, it's a little generic rusted out old sh1t box of a car. Put whatever oil you have into it and it will run for 400K miles. I mean seriously, if you're are using royal purple every 3k miles in your Yaris, you're flushing money down the toilet. There isn't s Rolls Merlin under the hood. If its liquid, made out of something with lubricity and has a flash point over 300F, dump it in and drive. At the end of the day who gives a f@ck?

[IllusionX]

Oh for God sake not another oil post! Make it stop! It's a little generic rusted out old shit box car. Put whatever oil you have into it and it will run for 400K miles.This is a post from 2015 actually. [emoji23]

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[ojeysky]

So I got semi-synthetic mannoil 10w40 yet I am still loosing oil on my 2010 Sedan. Is there any other thing I should be looking at or should I just move on to 20w50?

[IllusionX]

So I got semi-synthetic mannoil 10w40 yet I am still loosing oil on my 2010 Sedan. Is there any other thing I should be looking at or should I just move on to 20w50?

Wasn't 20w50 what you were using before?

Your engine could be damaged. Piston ring letting too much oil sip through.

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[ojeysky]

Wasn't 20w50 what you were using before?

Your engine could be damaged. Piston ring letting too much oil sip through.

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Previous owner was using 20w50 don't know for how long, so I guess I would then continue with that and plan for a change of engine in future

[bronsin]

I just bought a new 2020 corolla. It comes with synthetic oil, but to keep the warranty you have to change it every 5000 miles normal or synthetic oil.

My wife’s Camry is 15 years old and has 175,000 miles on it all on regular motor oil. It’s time for a new one to what advantage would using synthetic oil be? :iono:

[Brighton]

There is a lot of material out there about the pros/cons of synthetics and the basic pros are; better/more additives, last much longer, holds up to stress better but costs much more than conventional. Run what you like for the reasons you like but know that changing brand, composition (additives), quality doesn't make much difference for most production vehicles. Viscosity is incredibly important though so stick to OEM Spec (unless modified, extreme climate or abnormal circumstance.)
Also I'd recommend watching Project Farms (on youtube) oil championship videos, there is a ton of good info in them.

[Hershey]

Consumer Reports talks of synthetic oil , https://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/should-you-use-synthetic-oil-in-your-car/ . You can get mail in rebates at PENNZOIL , MOBIL1 and other oil company websites . Some take less than a month to receive by mail . PENNZOIL Platinum and FRAM Ultra Synthetic oil filter for both cars . http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/851816.png (http://www.fuelly.com/car/hyundai/accent/2018/cinder/851816)

[scetto3000]

Airplanes do not change oil, only change filters when light comes on. Then fill to full. Knowing this I change my oil every 5000 miles, but i also change my filters every 1,000 to 2500 miles. Keeps the filter fresh and never allows it to go into bypass mode. lowers the contaminents and it doesnt add much to maintenace costs when I buy filters 12 at a time and use an extra 6 /year.

[scetto3000]

toyota manual says it may burn up to a qt per 1000 miles. never had that happen. was amazed they accept that as normal. never burned a drop until at least 150,000 on any model i had.