Clutch survey

[attrapereves]

I wanted to gather some information on here about our clutches. Let's list...

Year:
Miles:
Original clutch? If no, how many miles when you replaced it?

I bought my car used with 72,000mi and am worried about having to replace the clutch in the next few years. The horrible throttle often makes me accidentally give the car close to 3000rpm when starting from a complete stop. No idea how the previous owner drove the car.

If I took my car to a transmission shop, could they tell me how my clutch is doing or how much life may be left?

[nookandcrannycar]

My car years and mileage are in my signature details (show up on each of my posts). Original clutch in both of them.

Park your Yaris in a flat, open space (an uncrowded parking lot), and you can DIY. Do the Standard Clutch Test posted by Yarisworld member djct watt. See post #12 on the link below for this Standard Clutch Test post:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25947&highlight=45k+clutch

[Yaristeve]

2011 3-door.
Purchased November 1, 2010.
143,000 miles.
Original clutch.

But I think it is going to need replacement soon. I have the following symptoms:

1. On cold mornings, during the first couple miles, my clutch chatters or shudders when taking off from a stop. It did not do this when new and only started recently. But chattering could be a symptom of other problems such as burnt/glazed disk or a heat-checked flywheel.
2. The clutch seems to be engaging much closer to the floor than when I first bought it.

But it has not started slipping, either during normal driving or when I test it.

My test is a little different than the one posted above:

Find a clear stretch of road. Start off driving normally and at about 20MPH, instead of shifting into 2nd, shift into 4th. Briefly punch the throttle about 30-40% then let go. If your engine revs up but the car does not accelerate accordingly, you need a new clutch. If your engine starts lugging or bogging, the clutch is okay. It is basically the same principle as the test as posted above but in a higher part of the power band. I perform this little test every few months on all my cars after they've accumulated a lot of miles.

[fourbangingfun]

155k miles. 07 Sedan.

Clutch chatters on cold starts in 1st. Doesn't slip at all. Gonna milk it as long as possible.


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[jambo101]

08 Sedan
200K kilometers.
just replaced clutch as it was juddering/shuddering on take off,
i figured at 200K its probably gonna let go sooner than later, i'd rather have my mechanic fix it than some one i dont know while i'm driving half way across the country.

[428CobraJet]

134,000 miles.
Original. As new.

[CrankyOldMan]

2009
Just died under 100k (changed clusters, can't recall the difference)
Replacing with a Clutch Masters FX300 series.

I don't do a very good job of rev matching when downshifting into corners, so I've dramatically shortened the life of the OEM unit. Started slipping about 3 weeks ago, completely shit the bed on the way to work this morning. Would have replaced it when I swapped gearboxes last summer, but didn't have the funds. Now I still don't have the funds, but have to get to work. The MR2 isn't really a commuter vehicle and needs LOTS of engine work to be reliable.

[IllusionX]

2007, bought of october 2006.
156000km

Studders when cold, 1st and 2nd.

Original clutch

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[attrapereves]

When you guys mention studder or chatter, when should I feel this? When pressing in the clutch pedal or releasing it?

[Foot]

Releasing it, I have about 45000 miles and it has been doing that the last 10000 miles or so on the second take off in the morning. I am not concerned though.

[Lux]

108'000 km on factory clutch assembly.
Driven very hard and raced often.
Frequent 4'000 rpm clutch dump launches.
Double-clutched rev-matched downshifts every time, every day since purchase.
08 Sedan
200K kilometers.
just replaced clutch as it was juddering/shuddering on take off,
i figured at 200K its probably gonna let go sooner than later, i'd rather have my mechanic fix it than some one i dont know while i'm driving half way across the country.
Change your engine mount.

[MUSKOKA800]

2008 Sedan. ~185,000 Kilometers. Plenty of aftermarket power adders.
Blitz since about 60,000 Km.
Original clutch. Occasional shudder during cold first gear take-offs.
Bite is good. Disengagement however seems a bit deeper in the pedal throw than originally. May need a hydraulic fluid bleed??? :iono:

[CrankyOldMan]

Update: Driven about 40 miles on the stage 3 clutch. Wow. I didn't realize how much power I was losing to clutch slip until this bad Larry went on. Hooks up almost immediately, puts ALL the power down. Even makes the tires hop on bumpy roads when accelerating. I would describe the pedal feel as firmer than stock, but not uncomfortably so. I wouldn't want anything heavier for stop and go traffic, but this should do just fine for AutoX and spirited driving.

[tmontague]

143,500km original clutch, bought car used w/ 87,000km on it so no idea how the clutch was treated prior.

The clutch shudders when cold in first gear, but no slip yet. I'll be bleeding the clutch within the next few months. I'm teaching my fiancee how to driive stick this upcoming summer so i'll be buying a good aftermarket clutch to install once she learns to install at the end of next summer.

I can't stand the feel of the stock clutch.

[Adriaan]

2006 hatchback. 368000km 229000 miles, still on OEM clutch, starting to shudder in first gear and disengagement a little hard from 3 to 4. Have to change the transmission fluid at 380000. So i'll change the clutch then.

[Kal-El]

I'm on the original with no issues, 171,600 miles.

It's not so much about mileage but the ratio of city/highway, driving style, etc.
If you commute in gridlock an hour each way in Los Angeles, DC, or Manhatten, your clutch is going to have a relatively short life.

On the other hand, we've seen Yaris's go 300, 350K on the original clutch with like 80% highway driving.

[Rigaud]

I'm on the original with no issues, 171,600 miles.

It's not so much about mileage but the ratio of city/highway, driving style, etc.
If you commute in gridlock an hour each way in Los Angeles, DC, or Manhatten, your clutch is going to have a relatively short life.

On the other hand, we've seen Yaris's go 300, 350K on the original clutch with like 80% highway driving.
Very good point.

Half the time, I don't even use the clutch while getting up to speed on the highway.

[BLKHILLSGUY]

Very good point.

Half the time, I don't even use the clutch while getting up to speed on the highway.

I'm confused. You don't use the clutch to get up to speed on the highway? Well what exactly do you do?

[WeeYari]

I'm confused. You don't use the clutch to get up to speed on the highway? Well what exactly do you do?


It is possible, if you know where the sweet spot is, to shift without needing to clutch it.


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[SirDigby]

Double-clutched rev-matched downshifts every time, every day since purchase.


do you do this because Fast&Furious told you to? why would you do this?? all this will do is make your master cylinder wear out twice as fast! do you have a straight cut gears in your trans? are you missing synchro rings? why would you double clutch???

[SirDigby]

It is possible, if you know where the sweet spot is, to shift without needing to clutch it.


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yes it's possible, but it is very hard on the edges of the gear teeth in the transaxle. it can cause issues with carrier bearings and thrust washers. I recommend only doing this...never. use your clutch. it's much cheaper than a trans.
same thing with using transmission as a engine brake, sure it will bog the engine causing friction resistance and slowing of the vehicle, but brake pads cost $60 where a worn out transaxle costs....much more

[CrankyOldMan]

same thing with using transmission as a engine brake, sure it will bog the engine causing friction resistance and slowing of the vehicle, but brake pads cost $60 where a worn out transaxle costs....much more

For daily driving, sure. For performance applications, you can't beat the combo of brakes + engine deceleration. There's no way I'm going to clutch in while setting up for a hard corner. =)

[fnkngrv]

2007 Sedan
miles: pulled at around 45k miles

I upgraded to the CCI Stage 3 clutch and ultra lightweight flywheel combo. For a long time it was one of my best investments other than going turbo.

Last fall during my speed runs I pretty much did a lot of stress damage to the pressure plate apparently because about 6 weeks later I had 3 of the 5 springs let go on it (25k miles on the setup). I would never buy another CCI product again personally. I contacted them because they stated that the clutch assembly should hold up to 300whp/280tq. I was running 250/245 and yet the pressure plate broke. I don't hoon on the car nor do I do things like auto x, etc. I asked them to meet me in the middle on a replacement and they flat our refused. This was the straw that broke the camel's back. I can prove via dyno results where my power was at and my logs on my EMS can show that I didn't over rev nor abuse the clutch.

The first issue that I had with them was that they claim to have payouts for setting records and winning races. I sent them my information back in 2012 when I set 6 new records. They informed me that Land Speed Racing isn't well enough known for a payout?!?!? Last time I checked Bonneville Speed Week is a pretty big deal, but whatever makes them sleep at night.

I upgraded to a Stage 3 setup from ACT this time around. It is their best and highest rated kit for street/track use. It is a 6 puck, but I have been told by a few very good sources that have them equipped on their 1nz that it is a very usage scenario for DD so we shall see in a couple months when the car is buttoned back up.

[Yaristeve]

do you do this because Fast&Furious told you to? why would you do this?? all this will do is make your master cylinder wear out twice as fast! do you have a straight cut gears in your trans? are you missing synchro rings? why would you double clutch???

Perhaps... ... because it is fun? Especially during heel-and-toe downshifts through corners...

Synchros or not, double clutching makes for smoother downshifting under certain conditions if done correctly.

[Squid111999]

Just recently started trying to rev match while down shifting but with no tach and a stereo that drowns out any sounds from the car its a lil difficult, but I feel like I'm getting the hang of it, just wanna get some wider pedals cuz the stock ones are tiny

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[CoryM]

To add my experience:
Replaced the OE clutch at 70,000km. Clutch still had probably 60-70% material, but some pressure-plate springs were soft (Clutch height was erratic). The release-bearing also was wearing through the springs pretty bad. I do a fair bit of autoX with the car, and drive on R-comps for several months a year. Pretty hard on things.

The OE clutch is VERY sturdy built. Don't worry about a little slipping, or the occasional jerky engagement; It won't hurt it at all. Toyota built these clutches to last. The flip side is they are heavy. I installed a LUK kit which was a fair bit lighter (and will not last nearly as long). The lighter weight allows a small, but noticeable difference in acceleration. Pedal feel is similar (poor) with maybe 10% more effort required than the OE clutch.

[Squid111999]

2006 hatchback. 368000km 229000 miles, still on OEM clutch, starting to shudder in first gear and disengagement a little hard from 3 to 4. Have to change the transmission fluid at 380000. So i'll change the clutch then.
Cannot believe that thing is still working lol, must do alot of long distance commuting. Good to know how reliable it is so I don't have to worry about my lack of experience with a manual. I've only driven 3 manual cars, an 89 535i, custom built vw powered dune buggy and this 08 yaris.

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[Hi mpg]

2010 bought new, now has 222k miles on clutch. Only problems has been rear wheel bearings.

[Lux]

do you do this because Fast&Furious told you to? why would you do this?? all this will do is make your master cylinder wear out twice as fast! do you have a straight cut gears in your trans? are you missing synchro rings? why would you double clutch???
It is a force of habit from my old 4Runner and Supra gearboxes whose synchroniser assemblies were significantly worn. The double-clutch rev-match forgoes the reliance on friction against the synchroniser blocker rings to match the input shaft speed with the output and counter shafts.

In doing this, pushing the shift lever into the gates during a downshift requires, literally, almost no effort, with only a cunt hair of resistance from the shift rod detents. Mind you, my Yaris gearbox still sees significant and frequent abuse.

My upshifts are still normal "granny shifting" and is the only time my synchronisers are being used.

[Deathegg]

2010 three door, bought with 6000 milea in 2011. Now a bit over 70k, no issues as far as I know. But I'll tell ya - next car if I stay in SoCal will be an auto.

[mryaris]

I'm the original owner of my 2010 hatchback.....bought it right at 6 years ago (Nov. 2009). It has 123k miles and still has the original clutch, which is functioning just fine. Most miles are highway......probably a 60/40 highway/city split.