HELP Car Won't Start

[BobTheYaris]

Its an '08 Yaris HB, new battery and starter. Has 13 volts at battery, not sure where to measure at starter. When I turn the key nothing happens, and when its turned to the off posotion it just about always kicks on the fan. I'm not sure where the relay is as I can't find anything marked so, unless "ST" is it. Before it quit starting completely it had been giving me trouble a few times where it would start after a few false trys.

[CTScott]

Check for a loose or corroded battery terminal. Also, try measuring the battery voltage while turning the key to see if it drops with just the solenoid engaged.

[BobTheYaris]

the terminals are clean and tight. And the solenoid is not engaging, no noise at all when key is turned.

[CTScott]

the terminals are clean and tight. And the solenoid is not engaging, no noise at all when key is turned.

OK. Do you have an aftermarket alarm or remote starter installed?

If not, check the 30A ST and 15A AM2 fuses in the under hood fuse box.

The ST relay is the one that drives the solenoid and it is part of the integration relay, which is the chunk that the ST fuse is plugged into.

[BobTheYaris]

The car is a base model so no alarm or anything like that. Both fuses are good and has continuity. I did notice that I couldn't get continuity between any of the st relay terminals but annoyingly theres no diagran to show if it should anyway.

[CTScott]

The car is a base model so no alarm or anything like that. Both fuses are good and has continuity. I did notice that I couldn't get continuity between any of the st relay terminals but annoyingly theres no diagran to show if it should anyway.

On the ST relay the black wire is the +12 to the coil from the ignition switch, white/black is ground for the coil, white is +12 from the ST fuse, and Violet is the contact output to the starter.

[CTScott]

Actually that is the wiring out of the integration relay to the starter. On The ST relay, 1 and 2 are the coil and 3 and 5 are the contacts:

---2
.........|5 |3
---1

[BobTheYaris]

So I should be getting a connection thru the coil which Im not. I checked all four blades on the relay in all combinations and nothings connected

[CTScott]

So I should be getting a connection thru the coil which Im not. I checked all four blades on the relay in all combinations and nothings connected

Correct - Sounds like the coil is open. You can try a quick jumping of 3 to 5 on the socket and the starter should crank.

[BobTheYaris]

I can hear the solinoid click when I bridge the coil terminals, but nothing hapens when I bridge the other two, could be the nuetral safety. But the grounds on the trans and strut tower look good so nothing else comes to mind. Can you think of anything else. And where could I get one of the relays other than from a dealer.

[CTScott]

I can hear the solinoid click when I bridge the coil terminals, but nothing hapens when I bridge the other two, could be the nuetral safety. But the grounds on the trans and strut tower look good so nothing else comes to mind. Can you think of anything else. And where could I get one of the relays other than from a dealer.

You don't want to bridge the other two, as that will short power to ground (if the key switch is in the off position, the + side is open, so fortunately you won't pop a fuse). Jumping 3 to 5 will fire the solenoid and the starter should spin, but with no ignition it won't start. If you have a MT, you actually shouldn't even jump 3-5 unless it is in neutral, otherwise the starter is trying to move the car.

For the relay, the Toyota 28300-28010 or 28300-21020 relays are the correct ones and are used on many Toyota vehicles. There are aftermarket equivalents to them, so you might want to check with a local autoparts place to see if they stock the aftermarket ones.

[BobTheYaris]

Should the relay fix it then? I need my car back like yesterday

[CTScott]

Should the relay fix it then? I need my car back like yesterday

It definitely looks to be bad, so it is likely the whole issue.

[BobTheYaris]

Ok. Thanks for all the help. Crossing fingers it works

[BobTheYaris]

so I replaced the relay and it still wont start. absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key to start. loghts come on when I turn to on except for the check engine I just noticed and the cool light keeps flashing. I' completely lost here

[CTScott]

so I replaced the relay and it still wont start. absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key to start. loghts come on when I turn to on except for the check engine I just noticed and the cool light keeps flashing. I' completely lost here

The check engine light should come on as soon as you move the key to the ON position and should go out a couple seconds after the engine starts.

If it is not coming on with the key, then the ECM is not driving it. That is a very different problem than where you started.

Check the ETCS and DOME fuses, which both feed the ECM.

[BobTheYaris]

The check engine light should come on as soon as you move the key to the ON position and should go out a couple seconds after the engine starts.

If it is not coming on with the key, then the ECM is not driving it. That is a very different problem than where you started.

Check the ETCS and DOME fuses, which both feed the ECM.

Yeah I don't know whats going on, it started with not starting and has lead to this. Both fuses are fine. Are the ECMS on these model specefic or could I get one from say an auto car? The local u-pull-it has an '09 in stock if tgats what I need.

[CTScott]

Yeah I don't know whats going on, it started with not starting and has lead to this. Both fuses are fine. Are the ECMS on these model specefic or could I get one from say an auto car? The local u-pull-it has an '09 in stock if tgats what I need.

You don't want an 09 ECM, as it has different features (and the engine immobilizer)than your 08. You would need one that matches the config of your car (AT or MT, ABS or no ABS).

[BobTheYaris]

You don't want an 09 ECM, as it has different features (and the engine immobilizer)than your 08. You would need one that matches the config of your car (AT or MT, ABS or no ABS).

Could it be anything else before I go find one? And wheres a good place to get one without breaking my wallet? I need an MT, non ABS if you know of any.

[CTScott]

Could it be anything else before I go find one? And wheres a good place to get one without breaking my wallet? I need an MT, non ABS if you know of any.

I have an MT one on my test bench that I can send you to test with. I can even pre-program it with your car's VIN (as the VIN is stored in the ECM), in case it is the issue.

I could do $50 + shipping for it, and if it doesn't cure the issue, you can send it back to me and I'll refund the $50.

[BobTheYaris]

I have an MT one on my test bench that I can send you to test with. I can even pre-program it with your car's VIN (as the VIN is stored in the ECM), in case it is the issue.

I could do $50 + shipping for it, and if it doesn't cure the issue, you can send it back to me and I'll refund the $50.

That'd be great. How do you want payment, I can't do paypal due to some bs I cant get rid of.