brakes

[JimKellyfan]

I looked at a lot of different brake set ups, from bigger brakes, to set ups from the higher priced guys and figured to take a chance and try the brakes and give them a hard run after brake in when I did not need them, to make sure they will be ok for when I do need them or not.
I went with Max Brakes out of Canada.
http://maxbrakes.com/c-1002950-brake-kits-elite-xds-series-kits.html
I ordered and received the Elite XDS, slotted and drilled with pads.
They are 88 bucks on their website right now, but I bought mine from Amazon for 102.
I will get them on in the next few weeks and update on how they are a few weeks after that.
Anyone else fell free to chime in on these or others they bought and are happy (or not) with.
I received them already and the rotors are heavy.
They look nice, hopefully they stop nice too.
One other upgrade I was going to do was to change all the brake fluid out to DOT4.
If I didn't go with this set up, I was going to get Centric rotors and Wagner Thermoquiet pads. Right now, at about 105K miles, I am on OE rotors and whatever off shoot aftermarket pads they have, look (and sound) like Advance auto metallic cheapies, so second set of pads it is on, but about to be third set. Drums still OE, with probably one more time adjusting coming up.
:drinking:

[invader166]

Interesting. I've never heard of this brand before. Looks promising. Definitly post back and let us know how it goes.

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[ilikerice]

Bruh....

Don't waste your money on slotted/drilled rotors, I don't care how cheap they are. There is no benefit unless this is a show car, even then it's unsafe if its not on a trailer.

This man can explain it much better with facts

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8

[JimKellyfan]

Interesting points on decreased surface area with drilled/slotted or both. I guess that was why they came with a one year warranty against cracking. Yeah, from what I saw performance wise, there wasn't much out there. I guess if one wants performance, buy a Lexus, right ? Some are just trying to generate a poor man's performance car. In any case, that video almost touched on, "they can be made strong enough", but didn't dive into a strong area needed to be dove into. The rotors made out there today, aftermarket, there is a lot of junk floating around. Different metals, less cooling vanes, the list goes forever, on how easy it is to buy junk rotors, whether they are slotted or n drilled or just vented. Also, storage, no one touches on that, lay them flat, as standing them on end tends to warp, pending metal type, I know would affect, but, good rule of thumb. In the end, I believe I have better heat dissipation with the Konig Feathers, so, my heat cycles should not be so bad, or one would think. Like I said, I am gonna try em out, and put them through emergency stop testing before an emergency arises, but after a mild break in period. I will report back. Basically, what I saw out there, say Brembo, wasn't impressed, then a couple other brands, just seemed overpriced or out of my range anyway. The rotors I got are heavy iron, so good choice of metals to counter the less surface area and heat dissipation. Too, they are from Canada, lots of snow, and corrosion, so I think these will do it.

[ern-diz]

Not a gear head in the slightest, so you'll have to forgive my ignorance, but I wonder why someone would want to upgrade the brakes on this car? It's so small and light that I find it brakes crazy good in daily driving. I've got 61k on the original brakes and they're still good to go. Given that we have very non performance drums in the rear, can you help me understand the benefits? Do you track the car?

[tmontague]

All I know is that if Jason and other racers on this forum said the stock brakes are more than good enough (except for upgrading pads) than that means they're good enough for me to not worry about upgrading and I'd rather spend the cash elsewhere on this car.

[ern-diz]

All I know is that if Jason and other racers on this forum said the stock brakes are more than good enough (except for upgrading pads) than that means they're good enough for me to not worry about upgrading and I'd rather spend the cash elsewhere on this car.

That's what I would have assumed, but I'm not a grease monkey at all.

[WeeYari]

Only reason to move away from OEM, if you are into it, is bling factor. This requires going to BBKs and rear disc conversions in order to fill out the space behind open spoke wheels. Yes, the small rotors and drums are ugly/awkward looking on up-sized alloys. Other than that, OEM are astoundingly good brakes for what 99.9999999% of owners need them to do.

[rbennett2082]

I agree with WeeYari. I just replaced front pads and rotors. The only upgrade I made was to Hawk pads. These cars are roughly 2300lbs and under 115hp even with most mods. OE style rotors and premium pads is all you need anything more is waste for 95% of us on the forum.

[Kalispel]

I'm more than happy with the OEM brakes on my Yaris. It seems to stop on a dime. I'm not sure if the SE 4-wheel disc brakes actually makes a difference versus rear drum, or the slightly larger discs up front versus the L/LE, but stopping power is excellent here.

[ilikerice]

Agreed. All bling factor. You will never go through so many extreme heat cycles to need slotted or drilled rotors. Just because it was built in Canada doesn't give them any more credit than being built in china. If a radiator was built in Mexico, does that make it better than one built in the states?
If you apply full brake power to the pedal and you eithet activate the abs or lock the wheels. You have plenty of stopping power. If you want more bite, upgrade the pads. If you want more pedal response, get stainless steel braided hoses.

I feel you only doing this for the looksame which is totally cool. But just don't lie to yourself about the reasoning

[invader166]

Just because it was built in Canada doesn't give them any more credit than being built in china.

No kidding! Practically everything in Canada is made in China. Hell even the railroad was made by chinese immigrants.
Woudn't surprize me if they outsourced the manufacture of these rotors/pads and they're actually made in China simply because it's cheaper to do so, then shipped and sold in Canada.

Agreed. All bling factor. You will never go through so many extreme heat cycles to need slotted or drilled rotors. Just because it was built in Canada doesn't give them any more credit than being built in china. If a radiator was built in Mexico, does that make it better than one built in the states?
If you apply full brake power to the pedal and you eithet activate the abs or lock the wheels. You have plenty of stopping power. If you want more bite, upgrade the pads. If you want more pedal response, get stainless steel braided hoses.

I feel you only doing this for the looksame which is totally cool. But just don't lie to yourself about the reasoning


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[JimKellyfan]

Thanks for the input. That was exactly why I started it, I wanted input from all, so as to point people in the right directions when wanting to upgrade, and even if it is worth it and why. Currently, I have aftermarket pads and stock rotors, which was done just before I bought car at 68k. The rotors vibrate a bit, but I believe there is enough meat to save for when these other Canadian ones fail or need replaced. But, yeah, to my point, there was a few threads on this and not one was really clear on what was available besides the high dollar conversion. In my aftermarket experience, I know Toyota pads are great, but know there are some other good aftermarket performers, like Thermoquiet by Wagner, I believe Napa has a good top of liner, but forget name, etc. Yeah, with the Konig Feather rims, I was completely into the bling factor, but was hoping it was an upgrade, as even with stock rotors and pads, too much hard braking and they shake (warp rotors), and in my opinion, a bit too easily, even if using an on the car lathe. So, I was in the quest for a cheap or poor man's upgrade. I am gonna jump to a DOT4 brake fluid, make sure rears are in adjustment (they are pretty close now, maybe a click or two out) and then pop these Canadian rotors on, aye. My reference to being made in Canada was merely that they have so much snow and are a rust combatant area, these rotors are iron and coated. It wasn't like that old Dudley Moore movie "Crazy People", buy Sony because Caucasians are too damn tall, by any means. Thanks for the inputs, many points not considered.

[ilikerice]

I get that. I think your rotor warping isn't from hard braking though. That may have happened from something else like previous owner riding the brakes or over torque the wheels on hot rotors at some point in its life. Or something totally different. I autocross my car every month and my abs has been used numerous times during these events.

[firebird1999us]

Good info! I have 230k miles and I seem to be experiencing a slight wobble sometimes when braking... I was curious how aftermarket stuff compared and now I know! That said - when it comes time for a full brake overhaul and the rotors need to be replaced is there a cheaper source for replacement stock rotors other than the dealership?

[invader166]

Stoptech has a good article regarding "warped" rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

In summary:
...every case of "warped brake disc"...has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc.

So I guess what they're saying is, cheap pads can screw-up your rotors. (duh!:bonk:)

I currently have the same problems as described above with a vibrating pedal when breaking at high speeds due to "warped" rotors. In my case though, I think this is happening because I'm still using the original rotors that have been in service for nearly 7 years, and are showing signs of severe rust build-up.

[ilikerice]

Good info! I have 230k miles and I seem to be experiencing a slight wobble sometimes when braking... I was curious how aftermarket stuff compared and now I know! That said - when it comes time for a full brake overhaul and the rotors need to be replaced is there a cheaper source for replacement stock rotors other than the dealership?

Rockauto.com

[tmontague]

Rotors rarely ever warp. What you're likely feeling is burnt pad on your rotor which causes different friction points at different areas on your rotor, hence the pulsating "warped" feeling.

This can be cause by hitting the brakes hard and then staying on them while at a stop (think hitting sudden traffic stop on highway). It can also be caused by worn out rotors that are thin and can no longer dissipate heat effectively. The heat start to burn the pads.

This second scenario happened at 320,000km on the original rotors on my Echo. I used a grinder and self turned/grinded the rotors flat while lifting the front of the car and putting putting in gear. It worked but after a week the problem came back and since the rotors looked very thin I knew that was the problem and not heavy braking.

Purchased cheap rotors from RockAuto and no more issues.

That being said I will be spending extra an getting good pads for my Yaris. I like grabby pads.

[MUSKOKA800]

Braided SS lines, upgraded pads and sticky tires.

[Lux]

Yaris brakes are crap.

The problem with the NCP91 Yaris is that the brake disk cannot endure sustained and repeated stops. The Japanese RS and some European RS/TS models were slightly better due to rear disk. The current NCP131 Yaris RS/SE has larger front brakes to address the known issue. I set a personal record in September for the shortest OEM front brake disk life, which was 19 days since new.

I've taken some heat (no pun intended) about something being wrong with my installation or break-in procedure because others have experienced no issues with their brakes during autocross events...
Bullshit.
I'm the one driving my car. Not them. Doing 180 km/h to zero stops repeatedly does wonders to the material limits of our factory braking system.

Your options are to improve cooling or swap in front brakes from the NCP131.

[invader166]

Yaris brakes are crap.

The problem with the NCP91 Yaris is that the brake disk cannot endure sustained and repeated stops. The Japanese RS and some European RS/TS models were slightly better due to rear disk. The current NCP131 Yaris RS/SE has larger front brakes to address the known issue. I set a personal record in September for the shortest OEM front brake disk life, which was 19 days since new.

I've taken some heat (no pun intended) about something being wrong with my installation or break-in procedure because others have experienced no issues with their brakes during autocross events...
Bullshit.*
I'm the one driving my car. Not them. Doing 180 km/h to zero stops repeatedly does wonders to the material limits of our factory braking system.

Your options are to improve cooling or swap in front brakes from the NCP131.

Maybe that's true, but i'm with tmontague on this one:

...if Jason and other racers on this forum said the stock brakes are more than good enough (except for upgrading pads) than that means they're good enough for me to not worry about upgrading...

End of story.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I just replaced some very old slotted rotors that I kept cleaning the rust off of every 6 months with Wagner premium rotors. They are very nice being all powder coated black on every surface except the brake pad contact area.

All I did was change rotors and immediately I had more braking power. Now that the slightly worn OEM Toyota pads have seated I think I've almost doubled the power. I also have rear discs. I only need to push my big toe onto the pedal to stop my car now, total night and day difference.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Yaris brakes are crap.

The problem with the NCP91 Yaris is that the brake disk cannot endure sustained and repeated stops. The Japanese RS and some European RS/TS models were slightly better due to rear disk. The current NCP131 Yaris RS/SE has larger front brakes to address the known issue. I set a personal record in September for the shortest OEM front brake disk life, which was 19 days since new.

I've taken some heat (no pun intended) about something being wrong with my installation or break-in procedure because others have experienced no issues with their brakes during autocross events...
Bullshit.
I'm the one driving my car. Not them. Doing 180 km/h to zero stops repeatedly does wonders to the material limits of our factory braking system.

Your options are to improve cooling or swap in front brakes from the NCP131.

There is a lot of fail happening here. :laugh:

What kind of event are you doing that has you going from 180 km/h to zero repeatedly?

What kind of crap pads are you using?

Nobody is working Yaris brakes harder than we are, and we have had zero issues with the OE rotors and calipers.

[xnamerxx]

The only time I've ever felt the brakes we're inadequate on the Yaris, were with the stock pads, driving through decker cyn road in Malibu. My rotor temps hit 700 degrees, hot enough where the paint on the brake pads caught on fire. Since I've switched pads, I've never felt the brakes as being lacking.

[ilikerice]

Yaris brakes are crap.

The problem with the NCP91 Yaris is that the brake disk cannot endure sustained and repeated stops. The Japanese RS and some European RS/TS models were slightly better due to rear disk. The current NCP131 Yaris RS/SE has larger front brakes to address the known issue. I set a personal record in September for the shortest OEM front brake disk life, which was 19 days since new.

I've taken some heat (no pun intended) about something being wrong with my installation or break-in procedure because others have experienced no issues with their brakes during autocross events...
Bullshit.
I'm the one driving my car. Not them. Doing 180 km/h to zero stops repeatedly does wonders to the material limits of our factory braking system.

Your options are to improve cooling or swap in front brakes from the NCP131.

Huh.. I have no idea where you get this info from.. It is possible you had a faulty part from the factory though

Been autocrossing my Yaris since I bought it with 20 miles on the ticker. First autocross with my yaris had only 100 miles on it.. I literally autocross once a month since 2010 when I bought my car. I actually just changed out my brake pads the beginning of this year for Hawk HPS which in my opinion feel just like OEM but Hawk doesnt make HPS+. I still had about 30% life left in my OEM pads with 75k miles on my car....

[enviri]

I make repeated high speed (90+mph) braking during my highway driving, along with dealing with heavy New York City stop and go traffic in the morning, I'm going on about 55,000 miles on JDM RS brakes and i'm literally about 2mm left on the pads. (Front are Hawks, rear are TOM's) There's your perspective, and don't judge, its how I drive. :)

[Rigaud]

There is a lot of fail happening here. :laugh:

What kind of event are you doing that has you going from 180 km/h to zero repeatedly?

What kind of crap pads are you using?

Nobody is working Yaris brakes harder than we are, and we have had zero issues with the OE rotors and calipers.

+1

Agree Jason and the best test bench is always the race track. Always appreciate the info you provide.

As for slotted or drilled rotors.........useless. I spent some time at the track this summer and no one uses them. Drilled/slotted it's all show and no go. SS braided lines at the wheels and top quality pads/shoes.

[SirDigby]

no one has made mention of corolla caliper/TS rotor? they are easy to come by and easy to get quality pads.
I plan to upgrade to the corolla calipers and ts rotors only because I live in Colorado and the brakes can heat up quick on the mountain roads. rear drums are fine by me; they last forever, (just sold a civic with original rear shoes, 325,000) and work just fine. I don't know how long shoes last on Toyotas, but i'd bet at least 200,000 miles.

I have not heard the ncp131 calipers/rotors bolting up. i'm going to look into this.
what is the size on the rotor? isn't it a 5 lug? i'm checking this out...

[20104dr]

I am hoing 134,000+ on my original brakes with squealing or grinding at all. But I just got a new set of everything. Now just waiting for the time to replace them.

[tmontague]

Every time I check my brakes and prep them for winter i'm always surprised at how much pad is left on them. The Yaris is ridiculously easy on brakes.

I'm looking forward to trying out some high performance pads once the OEM's wear down

[JimKellyfan]

Braided SS lines, upgraded pads and sticky tires.

:thumbsup:

[JimKellyfan]

There is a lot of fail happening here. :laugh:

What kind of event are you doing that has you going from 180 km/h to zero repeatedly?

What kind of crap pads are you using?

Nobody is working Yaris brakes harder than we are, and we have had zero issues with the OE rotors and calipers.

I beg to differ, you do not know how we all drive, as a group or individually. I did the Richard Petty driving experience at Charlotte and Bristol, and I am more of a short track guy (did better at Bristol), I definitely have been, as Mark Martin described himself, "on the edge of out of control".
I was and still think it odd/crazy/stupid/but fun that at times I drive my personal cars harder than those race cars on a track.
So, understood on your points and thanks.
More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.
That said, I do agree with you stock Yota set up is great, we just want greater, and spend as little as possible to do so.
To have the Lexus handling type car while spending just a bit more than a Yaris. I love pissing the Lexus owners off when I crack into a corner at a much higher rate of speed than they can and it sticks like glue. (Just need a higher rate of spring and I can take a 90 degree turn at 50 mph with out front tire rub as it currently would do if I did, as I have done twice):thumbup:

[JimKellyfan]

no one has made mention of corolla caliper/TS rotor? they are easy to come by and easy to get quality pads.
I plan to upgrade to the corolla calipers and ts rotors only because I live in Colorado and the brakes can heat up quick on the mountain roads. rear drums are fine by me; they last forever, (just sold a civic with original rear shoes, 325,000) and work just fine. I don't know how long shoes last on Toyotas, but i'd bet at least 200,000 miles.

I have not heard the ncp131 calipers/rotors bolting up. i'm going to look into this.
what is the size on the rotor? isn't it a 5 lug? i'm checking this out...

Lux said earlier in this thread that the NCP131 (newer Yarii):headbang:

would work. In other threads, it has been mentioned going to the Corolla caliper has provided for spongy brakes :barf:

For rear shoes going the distance, yes, I have seen them typically last two to three times the life of pads, as the fronts do most of the work (inertia and weight). But, if going longer than two to three times the pads, I would say they are out of adjustment.

As for proper adjustment on most vehicles, rule of thumb is if E-brake goes more than half the travel of itself before useful, you are out of adjustment with rear drum brakes on cars. (some trucks need cable adjustment, about 5 times out of 100, based on my experience, most are in need of a clean and adjust)
Best to do a clean and adjust with a dump, gentle watering off and a few clicks out, followed by a few hard stops backwards and recheck) (Some, like mine, need to have shoe come off of spring for new grease application where it rubs the backing plate SO IT STOPS SQUEAKING!:evil:, OK.

Hope this helps:clap:

[enviri]

By all means go for the corolla front setup! It serves me well going on 5 yrs!

[JimKellyfan]

By all means go for the corolla front setup! It serves me well going on 5 yrs!

Cool, what additional info can you give on yer set up ?

[enviri]

I made a post when I first did it...seach more stolen parts from xd in the forums

[Jason@SportsCar]

I beg to differ, you do not know how we all drive, as a group or individually. I did the Richard Petty driving experience at Charlotte and Bristol, and I am more of a short track guy (did better at Bristol), I definitely have been, as Mark Martin described himself, "on the edge of out of control".
I was and still think it odd/crazy/stupid/but fun that at times I drive my personal cars harder than those race cars on a track.
So, understood on your points and thanks.
More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.
That said, I do agree with you stock Yota set up is great, we just want greater, and spend as little as possible to do so.
To have the Lexus handling type car while spending just a bit more than a Yaris. I love pissing the Lexus owners off when I crack into a corner at a much higher rate of speed than they can and it sticks like glue. (Just need a higher rate of spring and I can take a 90 degree turn at 50 mph with out front tire rub as it currently would do if I did, as I have done twice):thumbup:


A Richard Petty driving experience, and something that sounds like street racing. You are so overqualified. :thumbsup: The fail in this thread continues. :laugh:

[xnamerxx]

More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.


What you call warp is pad material bedding into the rotor, that only happens when you stand on the brakes when their really hot sitting still. Like I mentioned before I've seen my rotor temps hit 700f, I didn't get the pedal vibration once. I've been to SC not a whole lot of mountains there, so not a whole lot of reasons to be riding the brakes like a $2 hooker.

[JimKellyfan]

What you call warp is pad material bedding into the rotor, that only happens when you stand on the brakes when their really hot sitting still. Like I mentioned before I've seen my rotor temps hit 700f, I didn't get the pedal vibration once. I've been to SC not a whole lot of mountains there, so not a whole lot of reasons to be riding the brakes like a $2 hooker.

Cool, thanks for the info.
Yeah, I try n use the gears, rather than stand on em in extreme circumstance, not as often as this thread makes it out to be.

[JimKellyfan]

A Richard Petty driving experience, and something that sounds like street racing. You are so overqualified. :thumbsup: The fail in this thread continues. :laugh:

I mentioned the driving experience only to mock myself for how hard I am on the car sometimes, but also to enlighten you and the false statement you had, knowing you drove the hardest of them all, and not really knowing that fer sher

:thumbup:

Actually, I started this thread, as there really was no real stickie or good info on other options or any options for that matter and wanted to help myself and others, as to what is available, didn't really start the thread for a bashing by the almighty racing clown, then get bashed again.

I have more than 480 certificates (in multiple manufacturing brands) in automotive, electrical and tires and do not claim to be the know it all, actually try and help, and be helped. I have been working on cars since 83 helpin pa, 84 in school, then on personal or girlfriends cars until 89 then part time until 97 then full time since then, but, dude, I do not claim to be all knowing.
I came here looking for tips and tricks, saving me time and helping others when I can, as much as I can.

There are some good techs on here that we want their advice, what they did on their brakes and what they recommend. I merely also stated what I was doing as well.
Feedback good and bad is good.
Fail troll is not.
So, you are either here to help or to not.
So far though :thumbdown:

Lets turn the thread back into what we all can do to have the best brakes and the cheapest way to do it. As well as some pretty ones and some racy ones and plain jane ones. And newer Yaris ones, or older Corolla ones. And so on.

Lotsa good input so far from many thanks.
Hopefully no more bashing from the race clown: barf:

[ern-diz]

Although I appreciate your approach, agree the thread should get back to the initial purpose, and am by no means a grease monkey myself, I think some validity has to be given to Jason and Armstrong given the fact that they are currently pushing these vehicles in real world race events, which is where auto manufacturers have learned the most about what works and what doesn't. Again, I'm no expert and I say it with all due respect, but I can't imagine a situation in daily driving or aggressive street driving where more would be revealed about the brakes on these cars then on the track in national events. Further to that, not just on the track in national events, but winning those events with fully built Yaris' running OEM brakes.

Just my 2 cents.

[Jason@SportsCar]

I mentioned the driving experience only to mock myself for how hard I am on the car sometimes, but also to enlighten you and the false statement you had, knowing you drove the hardest of them all, and not really knowing that fer sher

:thumbup:

Actually, I started this thread, as there really was no real stickie or good info on other options or any options for that matter and wanted to help myself and others, as to what is available, didn't really start the thread for a bashing by the almighty racing clown, then get bashed again.

I have more than 480 certificates (in multiple manufacturing brands) in automotive, electrical and tires and do not claim to be the know it all, actually try and help, and be helped. I have been working on cars since 83 helpin pa, 84 in school, then on personal or girlfriends cars until 89 then part time until 97 then full time since then, but, dude, I do not claim to be all knowing.
I came here looking for tips and tricks, saving me time and helping others when I can, as much as I can.

There are some good techs on here that we want their advice, what they did on their brakes and what they recommend. I merely also stated what I was doing as well.
Feedback good and bad is good.
Fail troll is not.
So, you are either here to help or to not.
So far though :thumbdown:

Lets turn the thread back into what we all can do to have the best brakes and the cheapest way to do it. As well as some pretty ones and some racy ones and plain jane ones. And newer Yaris ones, or older Corolla ones. And so on.

Lotsa good input so far from many thanks.
Hopefully no more bashing from the race clown: barf:

Great post. Is that English?:rolleyes:

You can't help those that have made up their mind despite evidence to the contrary. Some guys are just so "street" they can't believe they are doing it wrong. Lol

[tmontague]

Have to agree w/ JimKelly. Let's put the junk junk back in the pants and stop trying to compare lengths.

All input on this forum is appreciated and yes especially from those that race and are damn good at it. However, for the sake of everyone's gain, let's try and keep the ego's away...this is an Internet forum...let's be honest.

In the relatively short time i've been on this forum i've been able to learn more about cars than I ever thought I would. Without the input from various perspectives it wouldn't have happened. Just keep it clean and to the point of the original post and it's a win.

[fnkngrv]

All I know is that I am not happy with the OEM brake performance with what I do for racing. I will need to look into that swap.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

[JimKellyfan]

I have driven on the Max brakes for a few months now. Overall, I will be going back to my Toyota brake pad and rotor set up when done with these. I did machine the rotors and then painted them, and placed them somewhere in my humidity/temp controlled shed, laying flat. Ditto with the wifes Camry front rotors. I have found, from customers cars as well as my own, the pulsation concern lies with the sliders needing to be re-lubed, pending use and water drive through, etc., but typically at least at half pad life. Then for us Yaris owners, to make sure also to have rear brakes adjusted out as needed.
The Max brake comparison in my opinion, they shine over two areas only, severe panic stop and less brake fade when warm. The variable here could be I also upgraded my brake fluid on some of the fade concern, but also, I was on the lower half of the stock pads too. But, regular braking, they perform weaker than the stocks. I believe the slots and drills provide a tick more grab on panic stops. Next go around, I will put stock pads n rotors back on, but also do another brake flush with same synthetic fluid to rule out variable in fade. That said, the Max brakes were a tick cheaper with rotors and you get what you pay for, really. A tick cheaper set up. OK, but not great and going back to stock says it all. Hope this helps. If Wilwood or the like made a set up, then maybe go for that. I did also change springs and struts, this also assists in braking less nose dive.
:burnrubber:

[JimKellyfan]

Although I appreciate your approach, agree the thread should get back to the initial purpose, and am by no means a grease monkey myself, I think some validity has to be given to Jason and Armstrong given the fact that they are currently pushing these vehicles in real world race events, which is where auto manufacturers have learned the most about what works and what doesn't. Again, I'm no expert and I say it with all due respect, but I can't imagine a situation in daily driving or aggressive street driving where more would be revealed about the brakes on these cars then on the track in national events. Further to that, not just on the track in national events, but winning those events with fully built Yaris' running OEM brakes.

Just my 2 cents.

Agreed. It was just the seemingly being bashed I disliked.
I work on cars all day.
N drive 80-100 miles/day in crazy (as it is everywhere) rush hr traffic, typically with the more aggressive approach.

[JimKellyfan]

Have to agree w/ JimKelly. Let's put the junk junk back in the pants and stop trying to compare lengths.

All input on this forum is appreciated and yes especially from those that race and are damn good at it. However, for the sake of everyone's gain, let's try and keep the ego's away...this is an Internet forum...let's be honest.

In the relatively short time i've been on this forum i've been able to learn more about cars than I ever thought I would. Without the input from various perspectives it wouldn't have happened. Just keep it clean and to the point of the original post and it's a win.

Agreed.

[JimKellyfan]

Well, I made it to 198K miles, and the rotors held up well, only pulsate if really rompin on it. Normal braking ok. But, I am down to 4 mm on the pads, and have a low pedal. RFear brakes finally changed last night before I left work, they were a wafer on primary shoe, so done. The rotors did wear about half of my slots away. Not having great bits on the lathe, and prolly taking most of the slot away if machined, I am gonna toss the maxx brake rotors n pads. I would say, all in all not bad, normal stopping not as good as stock and emergency stopping better than stock, but not by much....I have my OEM rotors I had previously machined and painted and stored flat, so they will go back on tonight with factory pads (like my shoes, factory). Then I will bleed n flush brake fluid again tonight or soon, pending pedal feel. So, that said, I would go with maxx brakes again, but the factory pads are a cheaper option for me currently, so doin that.