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MedMantle
11-21-2015, 02:11 PM
Hey guys. I drive a 2006 Yaris Hatch and for the past couple of months I hear this humming noise coming from where the fuel pump is situated. It is especially apparent when idling and it's volume is similar to the radiator fan which kinda makes the bit of sound deadening I have done pointless haha

I have discovered that the tone of the hum can be changed if I press the power window up when it is already fully closed (in other words I am straining the winder motor) so I don't know whether the noise from the fuel pump is electrical or mechanical?

Further than that my car drives fine but the noise is quite irritating :frown:

It sounds like the noise in this guys video (not a Yaris obviously but same noise https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwPPY1j_wZo )

Any help would be amaze **

CTScott
11-21-2015, 10:19 PM
The Yaris fuel pump is pretty quiet, except when it initially spins up with the engine not yet running. If you can hear it with the engine running it may bve reaching the end of its useful life.

bronsin
11-22-2015, 09:32 AM
I agree with CT Scott. Its also possible the fuel filter is somewhat clogged and changing it might fix the problem. But the filter isn't normally available separately. They are integral with the pump and usually come only with a new pump.

If it were my car Id have the pump out of the tank and inspect the filter and replace it if possible were it to be clogged. I might reinstall the pump without the filter and see if the noise went away. That would confirm the filter being unsuitable.

Good luck! Now that you've got me curious tell us how the story ends! :smile:

MedMantle
11-24-2015, 12:54 PM
Thanks guys! I'm gonna take it out on the weekend and just have a look? If it turns out to be the pump maybe I'll just look for a 2nd hand one because as far as I've read they're pretty robust am I right?? It used to be intermittent but now I can hear it permanently.

After I take the seat out and lift the carpet, what can I expect? Any special tools I'll need?

tmontague
11-24-2015, 01:18 PM
From my understanding it is tough to get the notched cover unscrewed from the top of the fuel tank. CTScott apparently used a wooden block and a hammer to hit it loose. Thee is a special tool from Toyota but it likely costs a stupid amount and may not be necessary.

Used would probably be ok as they seems to last the life of the car. However, you could look around on line and see if you can get the pump and filter separately as I'm pretty sure they are removable, they're just tough to find sold separately.

I'm interested in how your filter looks. It's not the same filter media as traditional fuel filters so it apparently doesn't need to be changed like others, but I'm curious as to the shape it's in.

To this day I've yet to be able to hear my fuel pump on either my Echo or Yaris even before I start it. They're darn quiet normally.

MedMantle
11-24-2015, 01:45 PM
My car has only done about 130,000 km's ** I don't hope it has something to do with the Injector Cleaner I was conned into buying a few months ago haha. If I can I'll make a video once my seat is off so you guys can hear, it is quite loud and at idle it can compete with my exhaust note :O

MedMantle
11-27-2015, 05:16 PM
Doing some research I found that a "grounding" problem might also cause the problem I have. It's almost weekend so I can start checking the pump **

On a side note, straining the window winder motor changes the hum AND causes my RPM's to drop quite a bit. The car shakes almost like it wants to stall... things are getting weird guys but I'll keep you up to date.

It's like everything happens at once :/

bronsin
11-27-2015, 08:24 PM
Wow I would try to duplicate the problem but I don't have pw.

Have to believe a misoperating fuel pump couldn't cause rpms to drop under those conditions...but it might.

I would is there a spec for current draw at the pump?

CTScott
11-27-2015, 08:30 PM
Doing some research I found that a "grounding" problem might also cause the problem I have. It's almost weekend so I can start checking the pump **

On a side note, straining the window winder motor changes the hum AND causes my RPM's to drop quite a bit. The car shakes almost like it wants to stall... things are getting weird guys but I'll keep you up to date.

It's like everything happens at once :/

That makes it sound like you do either have a bad ground connection or loose or corroded battery terminal.

MedMantle
11-28-2015, 08:33 AM
Could a bad ground at the fuel pump be caused because I added other things with grounds to the chassis?
I have installed an Amplifier which is grounded at the rear right seats bolting point. I also have the cheap replica Foglights which I installed into the car's fuse box for the sake of having the dash light come on when I put them on and I installed OEM window winders with a home made harness.
These things couldn't possibly be sapping power from the Pump? I'll go check my Negative Battery Terminal later **

bronsin
11-28-2015, 09:28 AM
Could a bad ground at the fuel pump be caused because I added other things with grounds to the chassis?
I have installed an Amplifier which is grounded at the rear right seats bolting point. I also have the cheap replica Foglights which I installed into the car's fuse box for the sake of having the dash light come on when I put them on and I installed OEM window winders with a home made harness.
These things couldn't possibly be sapping power from the Pump? I'll go check my Negative Battery Terminal later **

Hmmm my advice for a long and happy care free Yaris life has always been don't add aftermarket electrical things like alarms, remote start, etc etc. because of all the problems Ive seen and heard they can cause. I hope this isn't your problem but if possible disconnect each of things one at a time and see if the pump motor doesn't return to normal.

My first move though would be to check whatever things CT Scott says to do! :headbang:

CTScott
11-28-2015, 11:33 AM
Could a bad ground at the fuel pump be caused because I added other things with grounds to the chassis?
I have installed an Amplifier which is grounded at the rear right seats bolting point. I also have the cheap replica Foglights which I installed into the car's fuse box for the sake of having the dash light come on when I put them on and I installed OEM window winders with a home made harness.
These things couldn't possibly be sapping power from the Pump? I'll go check my Negative Battery Terminal later **

Both of those could contribute. Depending on where you connected to for the ignition switched power for the lights, you may be directly connected to the power feed for the pump, as its power feed is one of the only easily findable ignition switched power feeds on the face of the under dash panel.

MedMantle
11-28-2015, 05:40 PM
I think I'll stop beating around the bush and just get that pump out ASAP. Electrically all my other components are fine and I have no noticeable issues. Normally I get my ignition switched power from under the steering column and my Perma 12V from where you've shown people (which is amazing BTW) ** My grounds are at the footwell near the door.

MedMantle
12-14-2015, 04:38 PM
Okay, so after battling with some stripped torx-head bolts I managed to remove my rear seats and pryed that cover off. I'm not too sure how exactly I'm supposed to remove the pump though.. do I leave the pipes on or do I open the Fuel Cap to depressurize and remove the piping and connector before I turn off the round plastic top?

I've been driving around seatless and it feels quite good but the road noise is terrible. I had a mechanic friend listen to the noise but he couldn't identify it.

I have discovered something else. It only appears after driving for about a minute. I drove down my driveway and back up and while I was idle it slowly started to hum and the volume also progressively got louder. I also found that when I turn my steering wheel while Idling in Neutral that the sound goes away as the RPM drops slightly. My friend also found If he turns full lock that the sound sometimes does NOT return till we blip the accelerator. It sounds like it is coming from the Fuel Pump's location but now things are just getting weird :/

CTScott
12-14-2015, 08:01 PM
Okay, so after battling with some stripped torx-head bolts I managed to remove my rear seats and pryed that cover off. I'm not too sure how exactly I'm supposed to remove the pump though.. do I leave the pipes on or do I open the Fuel Cap to depressurize and remove the piping and connector before I turn off the round plastic top?

I've been driving around seatless and it feels quite good but the road noise is terrible. I had a mechanic friend listen to the noise but he couldn't identify it.

I have discovered something else. It only appears after driving for about a minute. I drove down my driveway and back up and while I was idle it slowly started to hum and the volume also progressively got louder. I also found that when I turn my steering wheel while Idling in Neutral that the sound goes away as the RPM drops slightly. My friend also found If he turns full lock that the sound sometimes does NOT return till we blip the accelerator. It sounds like it is coming from the Fuel Pump's location but now things are just getting weird :/


There is no pressure in the tank - Just in the fuel lines. Remove the EFI fuse and crank the engine a couple times to depressurize, then get to it.

fnkngrv
12-15-2015, 12:16 AM
To remove the cap on the top of the tank in my car we created a tool out of 1" steel pipe. We took a 6" section and cut it open in a pea pod. Then took measurements for the exact diameter of the cap and welded the "open" sections that distance apart. It works like a champ as I have taken my tank out and apart now several times. Just a thought for you. I could take a picture or two of the "tool" if you need a visual, but it could take a couple days as the car is still in my buddy's shop as we work on my couple remaining items to move it back to my garage.

MedMantle
12-15-2015, 03:43 PM
Thanks for the tip CTScott, I will do that!

fnkngrv that would be a great help, I'll only be able to take a look at the pump on the weekend again though so whenever you can get a picture would be swell! :) We will be victorious guys.. **

bronsin
12-16-2015, 06:22 AM
Thanks for the tip CTScott, I will do that!

fnkngrv that would be a great help, I'll only be able to take a look at the pump on the weekend again though so whenever you can get a picture would be swell! :) We will be victorious guys.. **

That's the spirit! :thumbup:

Although it may be a long slog. :biggrin:

MedMantle
12-16-2015, 05:10 PM
Haha, the struggle is real! Reminds me of when it cost me like 2 months driving without door panels while I was trying to figure out the wiring for my electric windows :O

This Basic 1.3 Yaris was passed down to me after my sister sold her TS 1.8 and moved to America... It feels like in Need for Speed: Most Wanted when your BMW gets taken away and you gotta start at the bottom again :P It feels good though, I have learnt a lot and met a lot of good people along the way :D

MedMantle
12-18-2015, 05:50 PM
Guys, today I found that the car seems to be straining a bit on start up and tonight when I started it up again it was very weak and the pumped hummed instantly. My windows are also winding down noticeably slower. OMW, I'm starting to think it could be my battery playing up! :O Gonna have it checked out tomorrow and will let you all know what's happening.

fnkngrv
12-18-2015, 05:52 PM
Definitely let us know. I should be getting that pic for you of the handmade tool tmrw.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

MedMantle
12-18-2015, 06:08 PM
Thank you! Even if the battery solves my issue I'd still make an effort to get the pump out for interest sake **

bronsin
12-19-2015, 07:56 AM
Thank you! Even if the battery solves my issue I'd still make an effort to get the pump out for interest sake **

I seriously doubt a weak battery is going to make the fuel pump strain or hum. Nows the time to look for a used one if they sell used car parts in SA.

fnkngrv
12-26-2015, 04:59 PM
Sorry for the delay, but here are a few photos of the DIY tank lid tool I made. 1" steel pipe. We cut a 3" section off of the length of pipe I bought and then sliced it down the middle to make two half moon sections. I then welded them as you can see so that they will grip the teeth built into the lid. The length of the bar is 30" to give plenty of ability for torque to remove/reinstall. I have used it probably well over a dozen times with no issues. Hope this helps.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/3f3077a66ed08aaaa8e8b17313f6a97d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/36267cea80606fd66957e294c397b3e6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/4464c4f051c0250b3ba2d86c0338fd57.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/fa07727c55035eb6b41ec5a90e9142dd.jpg

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

MedMantle
12-27-2015, 06:34 PM
I appreciate it friend! I have been away and will only get to replacing the battery tomorrow and checking the charging system while I am at it. I'm gonna save these pictures and measurements and try to make it at work. It looks quite simple :D

Again, I appreciate your effort :)

fnkngrv
12-27-2015, 06:35 PM
Not a problem

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

MedMantle
01-14-2016, 03:45 PM
The tool is done and works great, thanks! Gonna take that pump out on the weekend and take some pics and hopefully get to the bottom of this chapter \m/ I want my car back in piece by the end of the month yo'

bronsin
01-15-2016, 11:21 AM
Good luck and I hope you get it sorted. :clap:

I just love it when the OP tells us what happens instead of just disappearing.

MedMantle
01-16-2016, 01:25 PM
I finally got to work on the fuel pump today. On removal I found some light oily dirt on the filter but nothing major. There was some oily fluid under where the pump sits but it was obviously stagnant. I cleaned it all up with earbuds and removed the physical pump out its enclosure. It looked good and sounded solid. I blew into it from both sides, shaked it a bit and knocked it a bit with my palm and reinstalled it. I then reinstalled the whole system, put back the fuse and started the car.

I took it for a 10 minute drive and tried everything including driving very fast, very slow, uphill and hitting the limiter in neutral. I came back home and it was so silent I swear I could only hear the fluid being pumped, it was death silent :thumbup:

I think in the end just taking the system in and out shaked whatever was wrong back into place. I can't remember it ever being this silent!!

Many thanks to you guys for helping me out with the creation of the removal tool and the tips to depressurize the system, I am a very happy man today.. :drinking:

Here are just some pictures for what it's worth **

56402

56403

56404

56405

56406

56407

56408

56409

fnkngrv
01-16-2016, 01:36 PM
Glad to hear that you were able to get it all squared away.

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

bronsin
01-16-2016, 03:44 PM
Awesome it runs to your satisfaction!

But keep that tool you made to get the pump out! :thumbsup:

Thanks again for posting what happened and for the pics.

MedMantle
01-18-2016, 01:50 PM
Ahh damn, 2 days of perfect silence.. I went for some speedy driving last night and when I reached my destination I heard the whine. This morning on the way to work (and driving like a normal person) it also reappeared. :( I understand that the faster you drive, the faster the pump must pump, right? So in the end I should maybe look at replacing it with a 2nd hand one. Luckily I haven't assembled the inside of my cabin yet.

Does anyone know whether the Yaris pump is used in other Toyota cars? That could aid in my search for a second hand one **

fnkngrv
01-18-2016, 01:52 PM
I wouldn't buy a used one if it were me unless you knew where it came from. Perhaps CTScott has one from that LB he broke down?

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

fnkngrv
01-18-2016, 01:53 PM
Also I can't recall if I have my stock one left or not. I would have to check my parts bins.

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

tmontague
01-18-2016, 02:00 PM
Has there ever been an actual issue with performance, or is this strictly a noise issue?

If that's the case then why not just let it whine and save your money? I guess the issue is that you're thinking the pump could be on its way out and you don't want to be stranded if that's the case. Not an easy call since they aren't cheap to buy new

MedMantle
01-18-2016, 02:06 PM
No problem performance wise, but the tone of the whine is insane. If I remember I will try and record it.

I found these cheap ones on eBay but I'm not too willing to take a chance on parts that aren't genuine, although physically they are identical: eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality-Electric-Fuel-pump-in-tank-For-Toyota-Yaris-Noha-Hilux-Suzuki-Ford-/181861387324?hash=item2a57c88c3c:g:AhkAAOSw3ydV5JA e&vxp=mtr)

bronsin
01-18-2016, 02:28 PM
If it were my bad pump Id be at the breakers getting a used one out of a low mileage car pronto.

A call/visit to a car parts store and a consultation with the guy with the catalogues should quickly determine which pumps are common to what cars. Or ask Toyota.

I found out the MAF sensor is common to my sons 2000 ECHO and my 2009 Yaris when his CEL went on for a year and we couldn't fix it. A swap of the sensors and his code went away and mine threw a code. So at least we KNEW what the problem was.

MedMantle
01-21-2016, 05:35 PM
A friend borrowed me a knockoff of the Denso pump. It looks almost the same but the smaller holes inner diameter is smaller, I don't know how this will influence anything? It came out of a Hilux. I have already sourced a proper pump with the whole assembly, used for about $60. I can have this China pump for $9.. how much do I love my car? :iono:

But seriously, If this cheapy pump solves my problem I know that buying the proper thing will not be a waste. I spoke to a mechanic at Toyota and he reckons that because I drive my car and my fuel levels are generally low (2 Bars mostly) that my pump wasn't getting adequate cooling from the fuel AND that the pump would suck up all the gunk lying at the bottom of the tank. Could this have caused the life of my pump to be shortened? It's just a theory..

Anyhow, I'm gonna embark on my quest this weekend again and will let you guys know what I find. It's not the most fun topic but I sense the end is near **

56434

56435

Sadly the pump did not fit my GT-R..
56436

bronsin
01-21-2016, 10:07 PM
My vote is for the used pump. No China pump for me!

fnkngrv
01-21-2016, 10:23 PM
My vote is for the used pump. No China pump for me!

Me too. 60 bucks for a used pump isn't bad at all.

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

CTScott
01-21-2016, 10:31 PM
A friend borrowed me a knockoff of the Denso pump. It looks almost the same but the smaller holes inner diameter is smaller, I don't know how this will influence anything? It came out of a Hilux. I have already sourced a proper pump with the whole assembly, used for about $60. I can have this China pump for $9.. how much do I love my car? :iono:

But seriously, If this cheapy pump solves my problem I know that buying the proper thing will not be a waste. I spoke to a mechanic at Toyota and he reckons that because I drive my car and my fuel levels are generally low (2 Bars mostly) that my pump wasn't getting adequate cooling from the fuel AND that the pump would suck up all the gunk lying at the bottom of the tank. Could this have caused the life of my pump to be shortened? It's just a theory..

Anyhow, I'm gonna embark on my quest this weekend again and will let you guys know what I find. It's not the most fun topic but I sense the end is near **

56434

56435

Sadly the pump did not fit my GT-R..
56436


That pump would be fine. The small hole just feeds a recirculating device that keeps the crud moving around in the tank. Now that you know how to get in there, if the Chinese pump fails you can easily replace it again.

bronsin
01-22-2016, 08:26 AM
Re driving around on an almost empty tank.

I agree with your mechanic this is not wise for the reasons he states. Also a near empty tank is going to condense water on the bare metal surfaces...not good! :eek:

I hope you are able to fill the tank from now on! :thumbsup:

MedMantle
01-23-2016, 11:50 AM
My phone was sadly stolen yesterday so I cannot take photos, but, I have found something yo'...

Coming back from work today my pump made its usual noise, very intermittently. I decided to just 'try' the China pump but upon removing the OEM one I found the o-ring was completely stuffed up somehow. It wasn't like this a few days ago when I first took it out which makes me wonder.. Maybe that is why it ran perfectly for 2 days before the noise returned? Did I install it wrong? I feel if I replace the o-ring and reinstall the OEM pump my problem will disappear! Apparently with a torn o-ring the pump sucks in air which can cause a noise. Do our pumps work like that?

Thanks guys, I will make a plan tomorrow to get an o-ring at Autozone. Will let you know how things go :D

EDIT: Online they reckon I must lube the orifice where the o-ring goes with petroleum jelly? Vaseline??

CTScott
01-23-2016, 05:51 PM
My phone was sadly stolen yesterday so I cannot take photos, but, I have found something yo'...

Coming back from work today my pump made its usual noise, very intermittently. I decided to just 'try' the China pump but upon removing the OEM one I found the o-ring was completely stuffed up somehow. It wasn't like this a few days ago when I first took it out which makes me wonder.. Maybe that is why it ran perfectly for 2 days before the noise returned? Did I install it wrong? I feel if I replace the o-ring and reinstall the OEM pump my problem will disappear! Apparently with a torn o-ring the pump sucks in air which can cause a noise. Do our pumps work like that?

Thanks guys, I will make a plan tomorrow to get an o-ring at Autozone. Will let you know how things go :D

EDIT: Online they reckon I must lube the orifice where the o-ring goes with petroleum jelly? Vaseline??

You are supposed to lube the o-ring with gasoline when installing it.

MedMantle
01-24-2016, 03:42 AM
My mistake :( I'm gonna get the o-ring replaced today and install it properly and hope for the best. The pump still works, but I've decided to push through for a bit and will rather buy the used Denso later on **

I found a good read on the internet for anyone that is interested in how the pump works and how failure can occur : HOW A FUEL PUMP WORKS (http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/195)

My situation matches all the requirements for busting the pump. I know my sister completely ran out of fuel a few times while borrowing my car and it all just makes sense on how this can ruin my day haha

I have one more question guys, I do remove the EFI Fuse and crank the car a few times, but I still have quite a lot of fuel running out that pipe on the top when I remove it, is this avoidable? Thank you **

alhope34
06-06-2018, 08:46 PM
I have this same fuel pump hum in my 2007 lb. It only makes the hum at a fully warm idle. If i even tap the gas so it goes up to 900 rpm or so, the humming stops until it settles around 600 rpm again. I have a new cheaper pump ordered but it will take a month to get here. No other shipping options were available. I drive about 1000 kms a week. Should my pump last the remaining 4-5000 kms that i will need it for?