tmontague
01-02-2016, 10:21 PM
I wanted to put all of the info in one place so that someone could purchase a keyless entry system and install it within a couple hours using this guide and only this guide.
The following information will be specific to the Viper 211HV keyless entry, but it will be virtually the same for the majority of other keyless entry systems and even remote start or alarm systems.
The vast majority of the images in this DIY are from YW member CTScott as well as the majority of information. I would not have been able to make this DIY is it wasn't for his vast electrical knowledge and great images of the connectors. Most of this information is floating between 2 or 3 threads that are more specific to remote starters and there was an error on one of the threads that hadn't been updated. YW member DanQ apparently had a full DIY done for the 211HV system but it is no longer an active link.
I will be updating this DIY with some pics of my install next week, but for now I have all of the wire images that you need to do this install.
Things you'll need:
18-22 gauge t taps
rescue tape and/or electrical tape
needle nose pliers
1/4" ring/loop connectors for 18-22 gauge wire
crimper
wire stripper
female 1/4" connector for 18-22 gauge wire
9/32" drill bit
drill
4 self tapping screws (can't remember the diameter that fits, but preferably the smallest you can get at a hardware store
10mm socket (for battery terminal)
Here is an image of the wires you need to use and what each one is used for:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1510999_10153858630272743_6407186716778622711_n.jp g?oh=ec4456ec7fe922c9694f83e7eb7cd1f1&oe=573287BD
First choose where you want to mount the module. I decided to use self tapping screws and mount it on the panel below the steering wheel just above the clutch. It is just to the right of the OBD connector and does not get in my way. Drilling the crews was extremely easy and it makes it easily accessible if I ever need to disconnect it for any reason.
I ran the LED wire under the dash over to the A pillar, up the A pillar and I installed it in the roof flashing down onto the windshield in front of the drivers seat. The wire isn't long enough to reach to the middle of the windshield like most alarm systems so I settled with above the drivers seat.
I originally wasn't going to mount te valet switch since I won't be using it much after the initial install since this is only a keyless entry system, but I decided to just install it as having to connect and disconnect it if I ever needed to use it was a pita.
I mounted it just to the left of the steering wheel and to the right of the cup holder and ran the wire under the dash. The manual states to use a 9/32 drill bit and it fits the led and valet switch very snug.
I started by taking the wiring harness (not connected to the module) and crimped loop connectors onto all the wires for ground. I used 1/4" size so that they'd fit the ground bolt at the drivers side kick panel. There are 3 ground wires in total because the violet and violet/black wire are connected together after the fuse.
I then took at 1/4" male connector and crimped it to the 12v constant power wire (H1/1 red wire). I use heat shrink tubing on the the positive wires and nothing on the negative (ground) wires.
I then got to work taping into the proper wire for each wire coming from the module.
I used T-taps and ended up using 2 sizes. You could get by with 18-22 gauge t taps, I had originally started using 14-18 gauge t taps but I found they weren't ideal as some of the wires are very small that you need to tap into. Make sure you really clamp down with pliers on the t taps to make sure you have properly exposed the wire so the connection is good. ***make sure the negative terminal is disconnected when doing any electrical work on your Yaris***
Once I had all of the proper wires spliced and they were all double checked, I connected the negative terminal back on the battery, connected the wiring loom to the module and tested out the key fob's. Now if your module is working properly and your taps are all good then you should have the following functions working:
*Note: Your parking lights will not be working unless you have moved the 15A fuse located in the module over to the second position.
This is its original position:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfl1/v/t1.0-9/11221517_10153864927967743_4292448774894499752_n.j pg?oh=231c5be7ba4ab5d926111fa04661ef3b&oe=5713A24E
This is how you want to set it up for the parking lights to be triggered by the negative flash:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12507602_10153864927852743_2036472292934057799_n.j pg?oh=e6fa7fce266b96e19b45996df9b94478&oe=570BFCB2
It is a very subtle difference but the fuse is just moved over one more prong. This fuse can be accessed by the little plastic window that you slide to remove. You will see a 15A mini fuse under that window. Just use needle nose pliers and pull it out. You will see 3 female prongs, insert the fuse into the middle prong and the other one that was previously not being used from the stock set up. You parking lights will now work assuming you have tapped the wire properly.
-car locks/unlocks
-drivers door only unlocks when unlock is pressed once. If pressed again 2 x then all doors unlock
-horn beeps when unlock is pressed twice
-parking lights flash when lock/unlock
-dome light stays on for 1 minute when unlock is pressed. Blue LED should flash continuously when the car is locked.
-when ignition is turned on doors should lock within 3 seconds and when ignition is turned off drivers door should unlock.
You do not have to wire all of these wires if you don't want all of thee features. Some choose to leave the ignition wire unwired so the car doesn't lock or unlock with the ignition (you can turn this feature off if you like).
Guide to what wires to splice and where they're located.
12v constant power: Located in the drivers side under dash fuse panel (under the drivers cup holder behind the removable pocket). You will see an empty spot with two male prongs sticking out. Attach the red wire from the harness which has the female end crimped onto it to the top male prong.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10574357_10153859093942743_5578021209938236293_n.j pg?oh=ce03be60f11e7d06d2dbe67e83a0210a&oe=574875F0
Grounds: All 3 grounds go to the screw under the drivers side kickpanel which is already a ground point for a wire. Just add the 3 loop ends to the bolt and then screw it back on.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlp1/v/t1.0-9/1375834_10153859094042743_2263316082167110248_n.jp g?oh=803e959b2ab6fc320c5309f3cbd9c90c&oe=56FB3A51
Dome light pink wire: Located in the drivers side under dash fuse panel. You will see the 4k connected which has a pink wire coming out. Disconnect the connector to give you more room and movement to use the t tap.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/936640_10153859108047743_6779231150766931717_n.jpg ?oh=6660cf2c4f7c5f32c96ed47a08e84887&oe=571C40DF
Lock and Unlock wires: Located under the drivers side kick panel you will see two connectors. You want the bottom one. The brown wire is for lock and the green is unlock
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11227605_10153859111067743_4922965680150013530_n.j pg?oh=b47e94901cb7c719d5efe1a5228d7793&oe=56FCED75
Horn wire: Under the steering wheel is a white connector that only has one black wire coming from it. This is the horn wire that you need to tap into.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1426636_10153859093977743_5787848655700508326_n.jp g?oh=a4f77eda55821aa7ebab7d30f7a8ef42&oe=56FF4050
Ignition wire: From the ignition connector there is a thicker green wire coming out of it. This is the ignition wire that you want to tap into.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlf1/v/t1.0-9/12400467_10153859094027743_1250417890154119800_n.j pg?oh=30f3f7c75ed91ec22ee10099d4f125a2&oe=57085C1E
Parking light wire: On the turn signal stalk connector there is a white wire, this is the parking light ground (-) wire. On most Yaris' this should work fine. However if you look at that connector and the wire in pin 10 (4th from the right in the same row) is green and not white/black then you have to use the positive (+) parking light wire. This is shown in the picture below. It is harder to access and not nearly as convenient as the white (-) wire.
For the negative parking light wire (ground):
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/735236_10153859094047743_1678852452303813133_n.jpg ?oh=d9b19f44b5acab38a0c144eb54d82c8a&oe=5710C941
For the positive parking light wire:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t1.0-9/1013337_10153859094102743_4448246458688586836_n.jp g?oh=8dde17e2ffac02a04be5ab55fb1b6c68&oe=57130773
I wrapped all of the t taps that I could access with self sealing silicone tape (rescue tape) as I find it works way better than electrical tape and makes the connection waterproof. I have done this for all my connections in my engine bay when I wired my HID projectors and I have yet to have any water issues. I know this is overkill as this is located inside the car, but it's easy to do and it helps with some piece of mind.
My module ended up having as issue from the factory and was not grounding the parking lights so they were not flashing. I used a paper clip and disconnected the white module connector and jumped the parking light pin to a ground pin and the lights went on. This ensures that the wiring and taps were all good but the module itself is not grounding the wire properly.
For the antenna which is just a 3' small gauge wire coming from the module, I just ran it behind the dash and towards the drivers door. Seems to be fine for now as I'm not sure what else to do with it since it's not long enough to run it up the a pillar and across the top of the windshield like I wanted to do.
for the excess wires that I didn't use I decided to wrap them up with electrical tape and tape them out of the way behind the dash. I did the same with the excess length of wire as well.
I could have cut the wires I didn't use and maybe I will down the road, but I didn't want to do it so soon after the install in case I needed something later.
Edit* Here are 2 new images, one of the LED placement
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10307411_10153864873057743_1623882795061646996_n.j pg?oh=92d55e4d219167a0fe98abc8e2d29cea&oe=570FB636
and one of the Module placement.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11214077_10153864873127743_3747814906532045843_n.j pg?oh=e610abc43938957325bb706be93489df&oe=570D25D5
I also added extra wire I had and used a butt connector to the stock antenna wire. I then ran the now extra long antenna up the drivers side pillar, across the roof panel (where the LED is) and then down the passenger side A pillar. This should allow for much better range with the fob's.
The following information will be specific to the Viper 211HV keyless entry, but it will be virtually the same for the majority of other keyless entry systems and even remote start or alarm systems.
The vast majority of the images in this DIY are from YW member CTScott as well as the majority of information. I would not have been able to make this DIY is it wasn't for his vast electrical knowledge and great images of the connectors. Most of this information is floating between 2 or 3 threads that are more specific to remote starters and there was an error on one of the threads that hadn't been updated. YW member DanQ apparently had a full DIY done for the 211HV system but it is no longer an active link.
I will be updating this DIY with some pics of my install next week, but for now I have all of the wire images that you need to do this install.
Things you'll need:
18-22 gauge t taps
rescue tape and/or electrical tape
needle nose pliers
1/4" ring/loop connectors for 18-22 gauge wire
crimper
wire stripper
female 1/4" connector for 18-22 gauge wire
9/32" drill bit
drill
4 self tapping screws (can't remember the diameter that fits, but preferably the smallest you can get at a hardware store
10mm socket (for battery terminal)
Here is an image of the wires you need to use and what each one is used for:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1510999_10153858630272743_6407186716778622711_n.jp g?oh=ec4456ec7fe922c9694f83e7eb7cd1f1&oe=573287BD
First choose where you want to mount the module. I decided to use self tapping screws and mount it on the panel below the steering wheel just above the clutch. It is just to the right of the OBD connector and does not get in my way. Drilling the crews was extremely easy and it makes it easily accessible if I ever need to disconnect it for any reason.
I ran the LED wire under the dash over to the A pillar, up the A pillar and I installed it in the roof flashing down onto the windshield in front of the drivers seat. The wire isn't long enough to reach to the middle of the windshield like most alarm systems so I settled with above the drivers seat.
I originally wasn't going to mount te valet switch since I won't be using it much after the initial install since this is only a keyless entry system, but I decided to just install it as having to connect and disconnect it if I ever needed to use it was a pita.
I mounted it just to the left of the steering wheel and to the right of the cup holder and ran the wire under the dash. The manual states to use a 9/32 drill bit and it fits the led and valet switch very snug.
I started by taking the wiring harness (not connected to the module) and crimped loop connectors onto all the wires for ground. I used 1/4" size so that they'd fit the ground bolt at the drivers side kick panel. There are 3 ground wires in total because the violet and violet/black wire are connected together after the fuse.
I then took at 1/4" male connector and crimped it to the 12v constant power wire (H1/1 red wire). I use heat shrink tubing on the the positive wires and nothing on the negative (ground) wires.
I then got to work taping into the proper wire for each wire coming from the module.
I used T-taps and ended up using 2 sizes. You could get by with 18-22 gauge t taps, I had originally started using 14-18 gauge t taps but I found they weren't ideal as some of the wires are very small that you need to tap into. Make sure you really clamp down with pliers on the t taps to make sure you have properly exposed the wire so the connection is good. ***make sure the negative terminal is disconnected when doing any electrical work on your Yaris***
Once I had all of the proper wires spliced and they were all double checked, I connected the negative terminal back on the battery, connected the wiring loom to the module and tested out the key fob's. Now if your module is working properly and your taps are all good then you should have the following functions working:
*Note: Your parking lights will not be working unless you have moved the 15A fuse located in the module over to the second position.
This is its original position:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfl1/v/t1.0-9/11221517_10153864927967743_4292448774894499752_n.j pg?oh=231c5be7ba4ab5d926111fa04661ef3b&oe=5713A24E
This is how you want to set it up for the parking lights to be triggered by the negative flash:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12507602_10153864927852743_2036472292934057799_n.j pg?oh=e6fa7fce266b96e19b45996df9b94478&oe=570BFCB2
It is a very subtle difference but the fuse is just moved over one more prong. This fuse can be accessed by the little plastic window that you slide to remove. You will see a 15A mini fuse under that window. Just use needle nose pliers and pull it out. You will see 3 female prongs, insert the fuse into the middle prong and the other one that was previously not being used from the stock set up. You parking lights will now work assuming you have tapped the wire properly.
-car locks/unlocks
-drivers door only unlocks when unlock is pressed once. If pressed again 2 x then all doors unlock
-horn beeps when unlock is pressed twice
-parking lights flash when lock/unlock
-dome light stays on for 1 minute when unlock is pressed. Blue LED should flash continuously when the car is locked.
-when ignition is turned on doors should lock within 3 seconds and when ignition is turned off drivers door should unlock.
You do not have to wire all of these wires if you don't want all of thee features. Some choose to leave the ignition wire unwired so the car doesn't lock or unlock with the ignition (you can turn this feature off if you like).
Guide to what wires to splice and where they're located.
12v constant power: Located in the drivers side under dash fuse panel (under the drivers cup holder behind the removable pocket). You will see an empty spot with two male prongs sticking out. Attach the red wire from the harness which has the female end crimped onto it to the top male prong.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10574357_10153859093942743_5578021209938236293_n.j pg?oh=ce03be60f11e7d06d2dbe67e83a0210a&oe=574875F0
Grounds: All 3 grounds go to the screw under the drivers side kickpanel which is already a ground point for a wire. Just add the 3 loop ends to the bolt and then screw it back on.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlp1/v/t1.0-9/1375834_10153859094042743_2263316082167110248_n.jp g?oh=803e959b2ab6fc320c5309f3cbd9c90c&oe=56FB3A51
Dome light pink wire: Located in the drivers side under dash fuse panel. You will see the 4k connected which has a pink wire coming out. Disconnect the connector to give you more room and movement to use the t tap.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/936640_10153859108047743_6779231150766931717_n.jpg ?oh=6660cf2c4f7c5f32c96ed47a08e84887&oe=571C40DF
Lock and Unlock wires: Located under the drivers side kick panel you will see two connectors. You want the bottom one. The brown wire is for lock and the green is unlock
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11227605_10153859111067743_4922965680150013530_n.j pg?oh=b47e94901cb7c719d5efe1a5228d7793&oe=56FCED75
Horn wire: Under the steering wheel is a white connector that only has one black wire coming from it. This is the horn wire that you need to tap into.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1426636_10153859093977743_5787848655700508326_n.jp g?oh=a4f77eda55821aa7ebab7d30f7a8ef42&oe=56FF4050
Ignition wire: From the ignition connector there is a thicker green wire coming out of it. This is the ignition wire that you want to tap into.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlf1/v/t1.0-9/12400467_10153859094027743_1250417890154119800_n.j pg?oh=30f3f7c75ed91ec22ee10099d4f125a2&oe=57085C1E
Parking light wire: On the turn signal stalk connector there is a white wire, this is the parking light ground (-) wire. On most Yaris' this should work fine. However if you look at that connector and the wire in pin 10 (4th from the right in the same row) is green and not white/black then you have to use the positive (+) parking light wire. This is shown in the picture below. It is harder to access and not nearly as convenient as the white (-) wire.
For the negative parking light wire (ground):
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/735236_10153859094047743_1678852452303813133_n.jpg ?oh=d9b19f44b5acab38a0c144eb54d82c8a&oe=5710C941
For the positive parking light wire:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t1.0-9/1013337_10153859094102743_4448246458688586836_n.jp g?oh=8dde17e2ffac02a04be5ab55fb1b6c68&oe=57130773
I wrapped all of the t taps that I could access with self sealing silicone tape (rescue tape) as I find it works way better than electrical tape and makes the connection waterproof. I have done this for all my connections in my engine bay when I wired my HID projectors and I have yet to have any water issues. I know this is overkill as this is located inside the car, but it's easy to do and it helps with some piece of mind.
My module ended up having as issue from the factory and was not grounding the parking lights so they were not flashing. I used a paper clip and disconnected the white module connector and jumped the parking light pin to a ground pin and the lights went on. This ensures that the wiring and taps were all good but the module itself is not grounding the wire properly.
For the antenna which is just a 3' small gauge wire coming from the module, I just ran it behind the dash and towards the drivers door. Seems to be fine for now as I'm not sure what else to do with it since it's not long enough to run it up the a pillar and across the top of the windshield like I wanted to do.
for the excess wires that I didn't use I decided to wrap them up with electrical tape and tape them out of the way behind the dash. I did the same with the excess length of wire as well.
I could have cut the wires I didn't use and maybe I will down the road, but I didn't want to do it so soon after the install in case I needed something later.
Edit* Here are 2 new images, one of the LED placement
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10307411_10153864873057743_1623882795061646996_n.j pg?oh=92d55e4d219167a0fe98abc8e2d29cea&oe=570FB636
and one of the Module placement.
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11214077_10153864873127743_3747814906532045843_n.j pg?oh=e610abc43938957325bb706be93489df&oe=570D25D5
I also added extra wire I had and used a butt connector to the stock antenna wire. I then ran the now extra long antenna up the drivers side pillar, across the roof panel (where the LED is) and then down the passenger side A pillar. This should allow for much better range with the fob's.