Keyless Entry Problems

[LeftCoast]

I have searched and searched but nothing leads to the problem I seem to find a 100% fix.

Car 2007 Yairs RS Canadian Model Keyless Entry w/ Panic button.

It all started a few weeks ago after I went to go start the gf's car after a few days of sitting and nada, after jumpstarting and replacing the car battery I thought all was fine, now the keyless entry does not work no matter what you do.

What I have done to troubleshoot:

- Disconnect battery again to car, no change
- Change battery in Keyless Entry remote, no change
- Reconfirmed the remote to the car via the instructions I found here, no change
- Reprogrammed the remote to the car, no change

the ONLY thing that is consistent thought all of this is the panic button ALWAYS works no matter what so I am thinking it is the lock/unlock buttons on the remote that are dead?:iono:

I would assume the panic receiver is the same for lock and unlock?

The only time it wants to work is after a drive and you get out to lock it it will work 50% of the time.

Should I be searching for a aftermarket remote off the net as my next option?

Thanks for any suggestions!

[CTScott]

The receiver for the keyless entry is near the rear driver's side window. See if it works when you are in very close proximity to it. The fact that the issue started after jumpstarting makes it sound more like something was damaged on the receiver as opposed to being an issue with the remote, but since the panic always works, that makes it sound more like the remote.

[LeftCoast]

Ah ok, the time it works for her is when she is right outside the car, but even then it's hit and miss.

I can be 100' away and the panic still works, go figure.

I haven't searched but is there a way to test if it sends a signal for lock/unlock? I would imagine the dealer would like some cash

[LeftCoast]

The receiver for the keyless entry is near the rear driver's side window. See if it works when you are in very close proximity to it. The fact that the issue started after jumpstarting makes it sound more like something was damaged on the receiver as opposed to being an issue with the remote, but since the panic always works, that makes it sound more like the remote.

Going to see if I can find a wrecker locally with the transponder chip from the fob.

Looking at the reprogramming instructions posted around here I should be able to add that into the car without that Techstream tool people talk about here and there?

[LeftCoast]

A little update to this thread incase someone else is having these problems.

It does not seem to the the key fob like suspected, looking at the car tonight and going through all the fuses and reconfirming the key I decided to turn the dome light to "door" and then shit kinda hit the fan, it started dimming then go completely off and then on/off/on at random points. It usually did this when the door is closed so there must be some wiring or a relay that is fubar somewhere in the car.

The key fob worked at various distances after i played with all the door light switches on the car body.

Can anyone point me in a direction on how the dome gets its dimmer signal from?

[CTScott]

A little update to this thread incase someone else is having these problems.

It does not seem to the the key fob like suspected, looking at the car tonight and going through all the fuses and reconfirming the key I decided to turn the dome light to "door" and then shit kinda hit the fan, it started dimming then go completely off and then on/off/on at random points. It usually did this when the door is closed so there must be some wiring or a relay that is fubar somewhere in the car.

The key fob worked at various distances after i played with all the door light switches on the car body.

Can anyone point me in a direction on how the dome gets its dimmer signal from?

The body ECU, which is within the under dash fuse box area, has complete control of the dome light and its dimming.

[LeftCoast]

The body ECU, which is within the under dash fuse box area, has complete control of the dome light and its dimming.

Ah ok thanks CTScott

I would imagine it's the whole assembly under there, if I can find one at a junk yard that may be my best bet

[LeftCoast]

a little more info to add to the pile...

Moved car and locked it on the street, when I returned a few hours later (dark) I pressed unlock and nothing BUT the dome light came on inside and then quickly off, pressed unlock again and it came on fully and then pressed unlock again and the doors opened lol

This Body ECU is that the whole fuse box under the dash? I have checked all applicable fuses for the wires system and all are good.

The numbers that are on it are...

TE25 - 1617

82730-52311 (This one can't be pulled up in any Toyota system I can find online for some reason?)

9650

This is prob the most annoying thing I have ever dealt with where it only wants to work when it wants to....

[CTScott]

a little more info to add to the pile...

Moved car and locked it on the street, when I returned a few hours later (dark) I pressed unlock and nothing BUT the dome light came on inside and then quickly off, pressed unlock again and it came on fully and then pressed unlock again and the doors opened lol

This Body ECU is that the whole fuse box under the dash? I have checked all applicable fuses for the wires system and all are good.

The numbers that are on it are...

TE25 - 1617

82730-52311 (This one can't be pulled up in any Toyota system I can find online for some reason?)

9650

This is prob the most annoying thing I have ever dealt with where it only wants to work when it wants to....


The 82730-xxxxx should be the correct part number. There are about 30 different part numbers for the "Instrument panel junction block assembly" as it is called. I have never seen that particular one and it isn't listed in the EPC, so you may be reading it wrong.

The body ECU is buried inside of it. The door control receiver gets the commands from the keyfob and then relays them to the body ECU, who executes them.

[LeftCoast]

Here is a picture of the part number.

Will see what I can find locally I suppose, i wonder what the difference is between a base Yaris and a RS in terms of this module

[LeftCoast]

Running the VIN I come back with 3 Part Numbers for the box, the one that states w/ wireless key system is 82730-52491, which for some reason doesn't match the above

[CTScott]

Running the VIN I come back with 3 Part Numbers for the box, the one that states w/ wireless key system is 82730-52491, which for some reason doesn't match the above


That is definitely odd. PM me your VIN.

[CTScott]

OK for your VIN 82730-52491 is indeed shown as the correct part number.

[LeftCoast]

OK for your VIN 82730-52491 is indeed shown as the correct part number.

I have a feeling I'm going to be living with it unless I can find a yaris locally with that P/N..... :ion:

This is why I love my Land Cruiser, no computers or mumbo jumbo!

[LeftCoast]

A little update to this saga, The car sat for 3 days and went to go start it and just clocking sounds which brought me back to square 1. I would assume she has not encountered a problem because she drives it 6-7 days a week but when left for a period of 2-3 days she will not start.

I pulled up my work truck to jump it and would not start right away, revved the worked truck for 40 seconds and it barely got the yaris to turn over, another 30 seconds of higher revs got the yaris to start... Ran the car for a few min and shut it down, and it fired right up.

I am a loss... next thing would be to see if there is a constant drain on the battery when its full charged I suppose.

[LeftCoast]

Went out to the auto wrecker yesterday and grabbed the same receiver that is in her car. Swapped it in, programmed it and it worked for 8 hours or so, this morning... Nothing.

I am kinda at a loss of what to do, maybe I'll just bring it into Toyota as clearly it's something in there that I can't find messing it up.

[LeftCoast]

A little update to this, this past week the Yaris would not start again, battery had 9 volts but once I jumped it it ran fine...

Once the car was home the gf said the radio was still playing with the key out of the car! I remembered that I had installed a GTA Car Kits aftermarket devise that allows you to hook up your iPhone to the radio and play your songs, I figured this could be the problem? I disconnected the devise from the radio and all the problems went away, even the keyless entry works!!

Go figure...........