My 2zrfe swap

[brushforhire]

I've been wanting to do this swap for awhile. I planned on doing it back in July of last year, but then my '00 tundra rear axle started leaking, so i had to fix that first instead. I bought a welder and learned to weld and fixed it myself instead of paying someone to do it. Well I had planned on doing this maybe later in the year, but then my exhaust decided to convert itself to a side dump system. So instead of fixing this exhaust only to redo it later when I did swap, is a pain to me. So here I am. Along with the swap, I am doing the Xd front caliper swap, and probably Megan coilovers at the same time. My front brakes are totally shot, and I am pretty sure my rear suspension is bad.

So here are my pics and documentation of how I am doing the swap.

56644 The car, and my hobart 210 welder I will be using for the exhaust work.
56648 I started by removing the hood
56650 And then the front bumper
56649 The rebar and front headlights were removed, along with various other small part.
56651 Here I have removed the a/c condensor, rad, and rad support. I have also taken out the ECU, battery tray, air box, etc. I think I have most all the connectors disconnected at this point to remove the engine harness as one unit with the engine.

I also took off the front brakes today. The fender liners, and under shields were also removed. I plan on taking the fenders off so I can put some sound deadening material on the backside of them.

I am taking this opportunity to clean the engine bay and possibly spray it gloss black while everything is out.

I am contemplating swapping in the Xd brake master cylinder, while I can actually get to it. I am planning putting an optima yellow top battery inside the car to free up some engine bay space and help with front to back weight balance.

I want the extra space because I hope to turbo this swap someday, and I want to do as much as I can now to prep for it.

So here are few pics of the Yaris S front rotors, Xd front Calipers and brackets. I am using G2 caliper paint on them. Decided to just go gloss black, because I have no idea what color my exterior might end up being, not to mention, I do like the sleeper look. Nice without drawing to much attention.

56645
56646
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For tools I am using a mechanic set of sockets and ratchets I bought from Sears, a Ryobi 1/2 impact One+ gun, Kobalt impact sockets from Lowes, floor jack, jack stands, and assorted other pliers and small hand tools. I will try to keep the tool list updated as I go to let everyone know what it takes to do this.

[Frank the Tank]

so what parts are you using?
does this car have abs?

[tmontague]

Damn these builds just make me drive my 1nz harder and make me feel less guilty about it...

[brushforhire]

so what parts are you using?
does this car have abs?

I am using a scion Xd engine, harness, ecu, alt, a/c compressor, etc. Not totally sure what year yet. All the stuff has only 65k on it. Everything is from the same vehicle except the a/c compressor.

According to Armstrongracing's thread, the needed parts are:

1)2ZRFE engine with ALL components and accessories from a 2009+ Xd, Corolla
2)ECM from a 2008-2009 Xd applicable to your car in auto or manual trans
3)Xd engine harness also applicable to your car and transmission choice.
4)Xd RH engine mount and bracket
5)Xd exhaust midpipe
6)Xd intake AND MAF sensor
7)Xd a/c compressor lines - I did not need these. I was able to reuse my old lines.
8)Mini-add-a-circuit (for the MAF sensor, it has different wiring and needs this. Thank you for the correction Armstrongracing).

In PA they can't sell used cats without them being re-certified, which isn't worth the money. So I asked them cut off the top of the exhaust pipe, so I could use the flange and weld a new exhaust to it.

I do have ABS

[Frank the Tank]

Will this be a manual transmission?

[brushforhire]

Keeping it auto for now.

[junorico24]

Wow,first hatch with a 2zrfe? sexy..

[ilikerice]

RagnaCat was the first 3dr hatch to do this swap about 2 years ago I believe. Had a build thread on microimage forums, but lost all that useful info..

[ArmstrongRacing]

8)Mini-add-a-circuit....

This is required on any 2zr swap due to the fuse box differences. The 2zr mini MAF sensor has different wiring than the older gen MAF sensor

[brushforhire]

Not to much progress right now. Bought a 2 ton engine crane and had to assemble that. Also bought some more can lights for my garage ceiling so I can actually see. Most of my time working on this is usually an hour before work, and about an hour after.

I also decided to take the cowl off to make it easier to work in there.

I am at the point that all I really should need to do is, pop out both axles, and then disconnect the manifold from the downpipe and it should come out after I unbolt the mounts.

I did notice that my manifold to downpipe bolts are really rotted, one the springs is missing, and the other bolt head is rotted away with the spring hanging on by a hair. That looks like it is gonna suck to get at. Gonna try and squeeze my sawzaw in there and just cut them off.

[tmontague]

Does anyone know if you can just buy the xD downpipe flange separately? I have a 2.25" custom echaust and it would make more sense to just weld the flange onto my exhaust so that it matches up to the xD header. Save money and keep the performance.

[brushforhire]

This might be a good place to start: Universal 2.25" ball flange (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41725/overview/)

Here is another I found, when I was looking into this myself: Flange (https://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=626)

I did find a couple other, but all pretty much the same stuff. Not totally sure of the size needed, but for some reason I was thinking 2.25"

[ArmstrongRacing]

That may work. But if you're going completely custom, buy the RPM headers for max flow. They sell a cated midpipe if you want also

[tmontague]

The 2.25" flange would fit my exhaust but the question is would that mate up to the donut gasket on the xD header?

Although the rpm header and catted mid pipe would be the best since there'd be no question of compatability. The other option would be to just go to a junk yard and cut off the flange on a corolla. Then weld that onto the custom mid pipe. I'm sure the rpm header and mid pipe are pricey

[brushforhire]

The 2.25" flange would fit my exhaust but the question is would that mate up to the donut gasket on the xD header?

Although the rpm header and catted mid pipe would be the best since there'd be no question of compatability. The other option would be to just go to a junk yard and cut off the flange on a corolla. Then weld that onto the custom mid pipe. I'm sure the rpm header and mid pipe are pricey

Someone posted a review of the Walker universal one and said that it worked perfect on their 2013 Corolla. So that may help.

The RPM setup with header and midpipe with cat and resonator is $725. I am really thinking about it, but my welder is just sitting there begging to be used also. I may just do a temporary setup to get back on the road and then take my time designing a proper exhaust.

[tmontague]

Good to know, thanks for the info. yikes $725, mind you that's with a header as well

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm kind of stuck on the exhaust as well--I'd love to get the RPM long-tube kit, but it's pricey and doesn't include the axle-back. I've got a resonator-back mandrel bent tube that MalibuGuy made to order, but that doesn't help me to get from the resonator to the header (where all the expensive bits are).

An aftermarket doesn't seem to be much cheaper than a used OEM--both are around $550--and that still doesn't cover the header or axle-back. Decisions, decisions!

[tmontague]

where are you guys finding the rpm package listed? I'm struggling to find the proper set up on line anywhere

[brushforhire]

where are you guys finding the rpm package listed? I'm struggling to find the proper set up on line anywhere

You can find the Scion XD RPM setup here: fastscions (http://fastscions.com/i-23789472-rpm-long-tube-header-mid-pipe-scion-xd-2008-2014.html).

The only make it for the 2zrfe, if you were searching for the 1nzfe, that might be why you are having trouble finding it.

I got the axles popped out, but left them in the knuckles because the axle nuts were so rusted up. I have the struts off, so at least they have a bit of wiggle room.

So all I gotta do is unhook the fuel rail connector, and undo the three mounts and I should be good to take the engine out.

I am planning to lift it by the outer two mounts.

I removed the lower tie bar also for more room.

I am thinking I just might fab up a midpipe myself. I am so torn, I was kicking around getting the OBX catless system and welding in a new flange and cat, but it is stainless, and I don't know how tricky stainless to mild steel would be to weld.

[tmontague]

spray the crap out of the axle nuts with some PB Blaser a few times each day. Then when everything is back installed used a massive breaker bar or preferably an air gun. Better to spend the time now and release them before it becomes too late and you can't when you need to.

When I installed my rear axle spacers the hubs needed to be air chiseled off. It was a huge pain but I was glad I did it. After re installing with proper anti seize when ever I needed to change my rear hub I can do so relatively easily.

The other option to pull the engine is to go to the dealership and get the 2 engine hoise hooks with 1 bolt each that mounts into the front passenger side and rear drivers side of the engine. However, you way should also work fine, the engine is light.

[brushforhire]

Woot! Engine and trans came out this morning.

Received the engine and most of the parts today at work. In the truck waiting to get unloaded. Still gotta collect a few oddball pieces and I will be good to go.

I went ahead and ordered a Takeda cold air intake, for this. Along with my Megan coilovers. Still kicking around what I want to do for the exhaust.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awesome!!

[beaker]

Woot! Engine and trans came out this morning.

Received the engine and most of the parts today at work. In the truck waiting to get unloaded. Still gotta collect a few oddball pieces and I will be good to go.

I went ahead and ordered a Takeda cold air intake, for this. Along with my Megan coilovers. Still kicking around what I want to do for the exhaust.

I know it's pricey, but you have got to go with the RPM setup. Gotta see how much can be squeezed out of this motor.

:thumbup:

[tmontague]

^i second that. The RPM exhaust is a beauty piece and I have a feeling it'll be good for some gains. Keep in mind the 2zr is going in an extremely light car meant for a weaker engine so even small gains will be felt pretty good.

I'm convinced when my engine start to burn oil in the next decade i'll be swapping in a used 2zr instead of re building and installing a Blitz s/c. As much fun as a boosted set up would be an additional 30 hp/tq all engine would be better

[ArmstrongRacing]

If the 2zr responds to headers like the 1nz does....you can expect gains of 10+Hp!
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11821

[brushforhire]

Just a small update, the Takeda intake won't work because it reuses the factory MAF sensor tube, and I don't have that. This was not mentioned anywhere in the auction.

Ordered a flexplate from ebay, so that should hopefully be here soon.

[CrankyOldMan]

Just a small update, the Takeda intake won't work because it reuses the factory MAF sensor tube, and I don't have that. This was not mentioned anywhere in the auction.

Ordered a flexplate from ebay, so that should hopefully be here soon.

Sure enough, the pics on the aFe website show the OEM MAF tube in there. What a weird thing to do.

[brushforhire]

Yeah, I didn't realize that it was the oem piece until I had it in my hands and realized they wanted you to reuse the stock piece. I would have expected better considering that it wasn't a cheapo intake. The seller is working with me to try and find me one though.

I get why they did it though, easier than trying to figure out the correct mounting and depth of the MAF. From what I was reading alot of the intakes don't mount the sensor at the correct depth and it throws codes. I noticed alot of the other intakes having a smaller section where it mounts to make up for this. Which seems weird to just have a bottle neck in there like that.

[CrankyOldMan]

The real bumer is that you can't find them cheap on eBay, and they're too new to be in you-pick-yards.

[ArmstrongRacing]

The cheapest stock airbox I found was $120....On Ebay

[brushforhire]

The seller actually found a piece from another toytota for $39 shipped that looks almost exactly the same. They are refunding me $20, to help pay for it. So I will give it a shot and see what happens.

Either way I will keep you updated.

So I am waiting on the flexplate, that intake piece, and trying to figure out what I want to do for the exhaust. I am thinking I am just gonna pull the trigger on the RPM long tube setup. I have my welder, but by the time I piece out the cat, flex tube, flanges, o2 bung, resonator, etc. I will be probably over halfway there anyways.

In the meantime I'm gonna finish cleaning up the engine bay, and then probably just spray it all black.

I did get the passenger side axle out. The drivers side it probably gonna stay in. The end no longer even has threads, just rusted solid. The passenger side came out with relatively little effort, considering the miles on it.

I did notice alot of my bushing are looking rough. I am thinking it's time for whiteline bushing kit.

I will try and get some currect pics up later today.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Good work man!

[brushforhire]

Okay well slow progress going on, and a bit of a surprise.

Here is the car in it's sorta current state:
56695
The wheel well:
56697

Working on cleaning as much as I can, I would like to spray it gloss black just to give it another coat and protect it a bit.

The surprise was that I actually managed to get the drivers side axle out.
The rusted mess:
56701
I didn't think there was anyway that nut was ever going to come off, but I kept messing with it. I actually tried to tighten it, and then hit it real quick in reverse and I started to come right off.
56702
This tool was some of the best money I ever invested:
56703
Ryobi one+ 1/2 impact. I have really worked it hard, and it just keeps going. I used it to take the rear end off of my 2000 tundra, and it plowed right through the rusty bolts and nuts there, too.

Some of the other tools I am using to do this job, just so people can see what it takes to do this:
56696
56700

The old engine and new engine:
56699
56698

I will be buying a tap and die kit to redo a number of the smaller 10mm bolts that snapped right off, trying to take them out.

It really is just basic tools that anyone should have, if they are considering doing this themselves.

So far this has been an interesting job, seeing as that I am doing it completely solo.

I was hoping to have this done in the next week, but I am gonna take my time and work on fixing the bushings and any other small stuff I find to save me from having to tear this stuff down again.

[Frank the Tank]

How much was the engine lift? There's one at my work that hardly gets any use that maybe my boss can lend me when I get this going (which won't be for a while. Suspension, brakes and tires are first on the list)

[ArmstrongRacing]

Youre supposed to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, not pull it out of the trans. Haha. Otherwise good work!

[brushforhire]

The engine lift ran me $180. I got it on sale at harbor freight. I like it because the front legs fold up for easier storage. It is the tow ton lift. The 1 ton lift is usually $180.


Youre supposed to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, not pull it out of the trans. Haha. Otherwise good work!

LoL, I kinda wondered that after I got it apart.

For future reference I would unbolt the torque converter in the car, because it is a pain to get to the underside of the engine while hanging from the lift.

[junorico24]

Nice..

Do you use the same engine mounts on the right side as the one in the Yaris? I'm guessing the driver side and underneath are the same because you're using the Yaris gearbox. Also I have a manual Yaris so i have to change the ecu and harness right? Sorry for the stupid questions.

[brushforhire]

The right side engine mount is from a Scion XD. The middle rear and LH mounts are the same. For a manual, you would need the harness and ECU from a manual XD.

[brushforhire]

I ordered the RPM header and midpipe. I finally caved. LoL

[ArmstrongRacing]

Haha awesome, I did too!

[CrankyOldMan]

I've got one on my wish list. I'm sure RPM and FastScions appreciate the surge in business!

[brushforhire]

For sure. I did some digging and found a 5% off coupon code on their facebook page. "tax"

I had to order a few random parts while I am in there doing this. A RH rad support, and lower rad tie bar. Both a little bent from when I hit a snow bank. Not to noticeable, but it will drive me bananas knowing that they are bent.

Coilovers arrived. Will work on those while I wait for other parts. Gotta get some of the suspension stuff straighten out while I have it all apart before I throw the engine back in.

[brushforhire]

Project is still moving along, just very, very slowly. I had to order a number of random parts to get going again. For some reason the junkyard had took the flexplate off, and I didn't realize there was a plate that was supposed to behind and in front of it. On backorder, or course. The RPM exhaust is gonna be another two weeks.

On the bright side, I am taking the time to attack some of the rust on random parts.

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm probably 6 weeks out on mine, trying to pick up smaller components along the way. I've already got the wire harness. Engine ECM, MAF and intake are next on the list.

[3cyltrbo]

I'm probably 6 weeks out on mine, trying to pick up smaller components along the way. I've already got the wire harness. Engine ECM, MAF and intake are next on the list.

I'll be watching that (because I believe you would be the first manual transmission swap to be properly documented?)

Will

[brushforhire]

Quick pic of my front swaybar repaint. It was rusted really badly, so I just took it out and took the angle grinder to it and then primed and repainted. Gonna shoot a couple coats of clear coat, and should be good to go.

56747

[CrankyOldMan]

I'll be watching that (because I believe you would be the first manual transmission swap to be properly documented?)

That's the plan! =) I don't know if I'll start a thread before I have all the gubbins, because that can be a disaster if I don't get everything and have to abandon the project.

[brushforhire]

A couple quick pics. I have a lot more I am gonna organize to try and provide a more complete guide.

56773

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56775

[ArmstrongRacing]

Looking good!

[brushforhire]

Here is my rundown of the speed sensor.

The XD harness does not have the speed sensor from the Yaris tranny. The harness plug in the fuse box has the empty spots for it.

The speed sensor on the transmission
56821

The sensor plug:
56822
56823

Use a pin to remove the wires, gotta kinda fiddle with it.
56826

The Three wires you want to remove from the yaris plug:
56824
56825

Where they go in the XD harness plug:
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56828

While you at the plug on the XD harness, remove the MAF power wire. It is the black with silver markings.
56829

[brushforhire]

You will need to ground the torque solenoid wire to the transmission.

EDIT: UPDATED PROCESS FOR XD HARNESS. ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS ADD A PIN/WIRE TO THE EMPTY PIN LOCATION 9, NEXT TO THE BLUE WIRE IN SPOT 10, SO YOU CAN GROUND IT OUT. REALLY EASY.

EDIT: NO NEED TO DO THIS PART!! Pull the loom and tape back from the transmission harness.
56831

EDIT: LEAVE THIS WIRE ATTACHED!!! This is the blue wire you want from the upper plug:
THIS BLUE WIRE IS PIN 10. YOU NEED TO ADD A WIRE/PIN FROM YOUR OLD YARIS HARNESS TO PIN LOCATION 9, WHICH IS EMPTY ON THE XD HARNESS. THAT IS WHAT YOU WILL THEN GROUND TO THE TRANSMISSION.
56830

THIS IS WHAT PIN LOCATION 9 SHOULD LOOK LIKE, NOT 10. IN THE SPOT THAT THE BLACK RUBBER PLUG IS IN, NEXT TO THE BLUE WIRE. I grounded it to this point on the case. The hole was not threaded on my trans, so I used a 6MM x 1.00 tap and ran a bolt in there to ground it.
56832

[brushforhire]

I am posting this, because my junkyard thought it was easier to remove the flexplate and spacers and throw them away, instead of leaving them on. I bought a flexplate on put it on, without realizing that there were supposed to be spacers. Ugh.

The supplies:
56833
56834

Inner spacer:
56835

Plate and outer spacer:
56836

The bolts that hold the plate on, put a drop or two of blue threadlock on each bolt. They get torqued down to 65 ft lb.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Good work man!

(for those that use a corolla harness don't forget to swap the SL solenoid pin at the ecm also!)

[tmontague]

Thanks a ton for taking pictures and explaining what wires need to b taken care of. Makes it much easier for future swaps.

Keep it up!

[brushforhire]

Good work man, don't forget to swap the SL solenoid pin at the ecm also!

I though that was only if you used the Corolla harness. I am using the XD harness.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Ohhhhh I missed that, my bad. Carry on sir!

[brushforhire]

Ohhhhh I missed that, my bad. Carry on sir!

Whew, had me a little nervous there at first, LoL.

[3cyltrbo]

Thank you for taking the time to document all this.

Just like a few others have done, its a huge service and benefit to the Yaris community.

Thank you

Will

p.s..... for anyone else out there considering a Manual 2zrfe swap, I'm waiting for your DIY

[brushforhire]

I am hoping after this is done, to start a new clean thread with everything in some kind of order, so it can be stickied. I got my axles, control arms, knuckles, calipers, rotors, pads all on. Exhaust is in the transit! ETA is Monday. Hoping to do a how to install on that. I know with being a long tube design, that was one of my biggest things, trying to find if I needed to wait to put my engine in, or if it will fit after the fact. It should fit right in with my engine already back in.

I can't thank Armstrongracing enough for being supportive and really figuring out the hard parts of this swap!

[ArmstrongRacing]

..... for anyone else out there considering a Manual 2zrfe swap, I'm waiting for your DIY

I will be converting to a manual transmission next year some time so Ill post up a diy on that too for you guys.

[ArmstrongRacing]

.... Exhaust is in the transit! ETA is Monday. Hoping to do a how to install on that. I know with being a long tube design, that was one of my biggest things, trying to find if I needed to wait to put my engine in, or if it will fit after the fact. It should fit right in with my engine already back in.

I can't thank Armstrongracing enough for being supportive and really figuring out the hard parts of this swap!

No problem man, we all teach each other something! Im also waiting on the header, so hopefully you are able to squeeze it in there!

[xnamerxx]

I am hoping after this is done, to start a new clean thread with everything in some kind of order, so it can be stickied. I got my axles, control arms, knuckles, calipers, rotors, pads all on. Exhaust is in the transit! ETA is Monday. Hoping to do a how to install on that. I know with being a long tube design, that was one of my biggest things, trying to find if I needed to wait to put my engine in, or if it will fit after the fact. It should fit right in with my engine already back in.

I can't thank Armstrongracing enough for being supportive and really figuring out the hard parts of this swap!

If your long tube is anything like the one I built for myself, or Jason. You should be able to get it in the car by pulling the dogbone and shifting the engine enough to slide it down.

[brushforhire]

If your long tube is anything like the one I built for myself, or Jason. You should be able to get it in the car by pulling the dogbone and shifting the engine enough to slide it down.

From what I read in another forum, RPM stated that it was designed so it will just slide up from the underside. I hope this is the case.

[brushforhire]

So I received my RPM header and midpipe.

I have some mixed feeling about their product.

First the good:
The header is fantastic. Well made, and assembled. Coating seems durable.
56891
56892

Now onto everything else:
The midpipe is well made, but it is actually a two piece system. The pictures on fastscions and everywhere else show it to look like one piece. If you look close enough you can see that there is infact a slip joint.
56893
56894

The packaging was horrible. All the pipes and parts were thrown into a box without any protection. The pipes were banging against each other and rubbing. Sad for $70+ in shipping charges.

They also made a mistake and forgot to weld on the hanger bars on the front portion of the midpipe. After talking with them, they are sending me a small refund, and I will just weld my own on.

The other thing I am trying to find out is how they expect me to connect the rear midpipe flange to the muffler flange. The factory using a pivoting ball gasket and they used a flat flange.

Now for the rough install:

From what I read they said that the header was designed so it would just twist and slip in from the bottom.

I am not sure if the xD has more clearance, but it does not work on the yaris:

56901
56898
I had to cut down this tab:
56897

After much fighting and beating with a hammer I was able to get the tab to bend just enough to squeeze past the crossmember. Really scratched the heck out of the coating.

56896

56895

56899

I definitely recommend cutting that tab off altogether, or dropping the subframe. I did not want to drop mine because I installed whiteline caster bushings and they were a nightmare to get in.

The midpipe lines up beautifully.
No pics of that yet.
However you will need to lengthen the rear o2 sensor wires to make them reach the new o2 bung on the midpipe.

I installed the DC sports muffler from the xD and two hangars line up perfectly. DC sports has you take a floor grommet out on the xD, but on the yaris it is a different size and shape. So I will probably just bolt/weld a hanger to the floor of spare tire well.

The DC muffler is also alot longer, so it sticks out a bit.

56900


Overall I love the header, but would recommend getting a custom midpipe made, or making one yourself.

I will keep you all updated on this install process of this.

[tmontague]

For a "new" product that mid pipe looks beat to hell.

Thanks for the update. If I ever do this install down the road i'll b skipping the mid pipe and building my own. I like the header but that mid pipe is garbage for the money it costs.

How essential is that tab that you recommend cutting of?

[CrankyOldMan]

That's a shame to hear that there's so many issues with the purchase overall.

What's the midpipe diameter? I've got a custom res-back to axle-back bent section of 2.5" that I haven't installed yet. I bought it for the Blitz S/C setup, but I'm worried about losing too much back pressure on the NA motor. It would also save me the cost of the midpipe and shipping.

[brushforhire]

For a "new" product that mid pipe looks beat to hell.

Thanks for the update. If I ever do this install down the road i'll b skipping the mid pipe and building my own. I like the header but that mid pipe is garbage for the money it costs.

How essential is that tab that you recommend cutting of?

Honestly, not real sure what the tab is for. My engine doesn't have any corresponding mounting brackets. Not to say they shouldn't be there.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Sad....Im glad I didn't order the midpipe. The tab on the header should be for the support bracket for the header

[beaker]

In all fairness to the header manufacturer on the fitment, we are trying to use a header/mid-pipe on a different car than what it was intended for. Doesn't look like any major fabrication to make it work. My only concern would be the flange for the muffler to mid-pipe. The slip joint on the mid-pipe is actually a good thing for this experiment, gives you a little more flexibility in fitment.

[brushforhire]

In all fairness to the header manufacturer on the fitment, we are trying to use a header/mid-pipe on a different car than what it was intended for. Doesn't look like any major fabrication to make it work. My only concern would be the flange for the muffler to mid-pipe. The slip joint on the mid-pipe is actually a good thing for this experiment, gives you a little more flexibility in fitment.

They had been advertising all over other forums and the internet that it is for the Yaris TS. So once I put the 2zrfe engine into my car, it is basically the same thing, so it should fit exactly the same.

That being said, I dunno if they actually sold a midpipe and header to any actual Yaris TS owners.

The slip joint isn't really needed honestly, but not really hurting anything either, I just like a sealed exhaust pipe.

In regards to the rear flange they told me most people are just using high temp silicone, which worries me. They are sending me a regular gasket that is supposed to work, so I will keep you all updated on that.

[beaker]

They had been advertising all over other forums and the internet that it is for the Yaris TS. So once I put the 2zrfe engine into my car, it is basically the same thing, so it should fit exactly the same.

That being said, I dunno if they actually sold a midpipe and header to any actual Yaris TS owners.

The slip joint isn't really needed honestly, but not really hurting anything either, I just like a sealed exhaust pipe.

In regards to the rear flange they told me most people are just using high temp silicone, which worries me. They are sending me a regular gasket that is supposed to work, so I will keep you all updated on that.

The flat gasket will work, you will just have to grind the flange on the muffler side flat, where originally the "half donut" gasket would fit. The should be a protrusion on the flange that holds the original style gasket in place. Or, I may be wrong in thinking the ball is on the muffler side, if it originally was on the mid pipe side, then just use the gasket. I wouldn't use silicone.

If you don't like the slip joint, just put some tack welds on it once you get everything fitted and clamped, pull it down and weld it up.

As for sliding the header on once the cross member and engine are in place, sounds like for others planning on doing this, it would be better to install the header onto the engine prior to installing the engine in the car.

[brushforhire]

That's a shame to hear that there's so many issues with the purchase overall.

What's the midpipe diameter? I've got a custom res-back to axle-back bent section of 2.5" that I haven't installed yet. I bought it for the Blitz S/C setup, but I'm worried about losing too much back pressure on the NA motor. It would also save me the cost of the midpipe and shipping.

The inner diameter of the midpipe is 2" and the outside is 2.25" as per my digital caliper.

[LTHatch]

Looks awesome! Can't wait to hear how angry she will sound with your header setup, and your review on how it drives.

[brushforhire]

The flat gasket will work, you will just have to grind the flange on the muffler side flat, where originally the "half donut" gasket would fit. The should be a protrusion on the flange that holds the original style gasket in place. Or, I may be wrong in thinking the ball is on the muffler side, if it originally was on the mid pipe side, then just use the gasket. I wouldn't use silicone.

If you don't like the slip joint, just put some tack welds on it once you get everything fitted and clamped, pull it down and weld it up.

As for sliding the header on once the cross member and engine are in place, sounds like for others planning on doing this, it would be better to install the header onto the engine prior to installing the engine in the car.

Luckily the little part you are talking about was on the midpipe side originally, so the gasket should be the ticket.

I will probably just end up welding the slip joint like you said.

I would install the header before putting the engine in, or drop the crossmember.

Honestly though, I would probably just cut that tab off. I will have to cut it off with an angle grinder if I want to get the header back out. I can always fab up another mount if I need to. I am not gonna bother with a mount bracket for now.

[MugenRep]

Great results. Good to see a quick Yaris locally. Are your pans to do SCCA, strip racing, road racing, NASA, etc. with it?

[brushforhire]

Great results. Good to see a quick Yaris locally. Are your pans to do SCCA, strip racing, road racing, NASA, etc. with it?

I would love to do autocross, but I have no idea where to go or start with it. I might try to enter orbit with it, but I might need to add a turbo to it, before I start true space exploration.

[CrankyOldMan]

lmgtfy (https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&es_th=1&ie=UTF-8&q=scca%20pennsylvania&oq=scca%20pen&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.2159j0j7) =P

The NASA in question is the North American Sportscar Association. Similar to SCCA, but with different rules and classifications.

The best way to get into autocross is to find a local event, register, show up, and enjoy the day.

[ArmstrongRacing]

scca.com > find my region ��

[MugenRep]

I would love to do autocross, but I have no idea where to go or start with it. I might try to enter orbit with it, but I might need to add a turbo to it, before I start true space exploration.

Lol, if space exploration is in question I'd start with the void im finding between some people's ears at my current job.

SCCA Central PA is pretty active. Their Facebook group seems to answer questions pretty quickly and they are one of the least condescending groups I've participated in. Not sure what class you'd be in, but according to the last time I checked I'm stuck in STS and although I'll be non-competitive it'll be great experience in learning to drive my car better. Last I looked it was $35 at most events for non-SCCA members for a Sunday fun run.

[brushforhire]

I finally found this group: Allegheny Highlands Region SCCA (https://www.facebook.com/Allegheny-Highlands-Region-Sports-Car-Club-of-America-176785862357958/)

They hold their events like 40 minutes from my house, and their club meetings like only 5 minutes from my house. Woo!

[ArmstrongRacing]

Nice! We're going to have a 2zr swap on each coast! 3 so far guys!

[MugenRep]

I finally found this group: Allegheny Highlands Region SCCA (https://www.facebook.com/Allegheny-Highlands-Region-Sports-Car-Club-of-America-176785862357958/)

They hold their events like 40 minutes from my house, and their club meetings like only 5 minutes from my house. Woo!

Very very nice!!!

[CrankyOldMan]

Nice! We're going to have a 2zr swap on each coast! 3 so far guys!

Does MI count as the north coast? =P

(My bonus shows up on Monday. SOOO EXCITED!)

[brushforhire]

Does MI count as the north coast? =P

(My bonus shows up on Monday. SOOO EXCITED!)

Awesome! At the rate I am getting to work on my car, you'll have yours done before mine. LoL.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Does MI count as the north coast? =P

(My bonus shows up on Monday. SOOO EXCITED!)

YES! muahahaha!

Auto or Manual?

[CrankyOldMan]

Awesome! At the rate I am getting to work on my car, you'll have yours done before mine. LoL.
Nah, I'll be in Mexico for a week, home for a week, then in China for a week. No idea where I'll be in May.

YES! muahahaha!

Auto or Manual?

Manual. I've only got the wire harness so far, but intend to order the exhaust and ECU ASAP, and buy the motor as soon as I get back from MX.

On a side note, can you measure the ID of the MAF section? I grabbed the top of a 1ZZ Matrix/Vibe airbox at the junk yard, but I don't know if it's the right ID for the xD MAF sensor. I plan on using a CAI anyway, but need to know the right diameter to prevent a bunch of CEL issues.

[brushforhire]

As a side note, I was able to reuse my old a/c lines, so I did not have to order any new ones. Thankfully. I know Armstrongracing had to use new ones, so if you have a sedan it might be different.

I got my starter and alternator wires upgraded. Did a bigger ground for the front because my battery is not located behind the passenger seat. I went with 1/0 oversized. It's obscenely huge, lol. I also used the 1/0 wire for the ground from the battery to the body.

I have to figure out where to run my 1/0 power wire from the battery to the engine bay now. I was gonna run it through the grommet where the 4 ga was, but there is not way 1/0 oversized wire is fitting through that grommet on the drivers side! Probably just drill a hole in the firewall and hide the power wire a little better.

[CrankyOldMan]

Mine's a 3DR hatch. Did you have to get the xD alternator and A/C compressor?

I have to figure out where to run my 1/0 power wire from the battery to the engine bay now. I was gonna run it through the grommet where the 4 ga was, but there is not way 1/0 oversized wire is fitting through that grommet on the drivers side! Probably just drill a hole in the firewall and hide the power wire a little better.

There's another grommet behind the passenger airbag. It's easiest to see it from the engine bay, but it's under the wiper cowl. Probably a 5/8" diameter hole.

[brushforhire]

Mine's a 3DR hatch. Did you have to get the xD alternator and A/C compressor?



There's another grommet behind the passenger airbag. It's easiest to see it from the engine bay, but it's under the wiper cowl. Probably a 5/8" diameter hole.

I did get the alt and compressor. The xD pulleys have more ribs.


I will check for that grommet, thanks!

[CrankyOldMan]

I did get the alt and compressor. The xD pulleys have more ribs.

I totally knew that. :rolleyes:

[invader166]

On a side note, can you measure the ID of the MAF section? I grabbed the top of a 1ZZ Matrix/Vibe airbox at the junk yard, but I don't know if it's the right ID for the xD MAF sensor. I plan on using a CAI anyway, but need to know the right diameter to prevent a bunch of CEL issues.

Cranky, you should try to fit the 2ZR into the MR2. :wink:
This way you get a (simmilar) 3rd gen. powertrain in a 1st gen. shell.:thumbup:

[CrankyOldMan]

Cranky, you should try to fit the 2ZR into the MR2. :wink:
This way you get a (simmilar) 3rd gen. powertrain in a 1st gen. shell.:thumbup:

The Yaris is getting the 2ZR because it needs a stock OEM motor. The MR2 is getting the boosted 1NZ so that the finicky supercharger is with the playtoy/racecar. I drive about 40 miles one way to work, and have trashed 2 crank pulleys in the past 12 months.:cry:

[brushforhire]

A couple quick shots of the a/c lines.

56941
56942

[brushforhire]

I'm still moving along on this. Just very slowly. I only get about an hour and a half a day to work on this. I'm also painting the car as I go, so that is really slowing me down.

As a side note, I decided to use the mount that came with he dc sports xD muffler. It it is a square top and at a first I didn't think it would work, because the hole is round, but I realized that it is probably the same on the xD. It fits in very snug, and it seems like it will work. It is secure in place, and almost seals up. It looks like it has ridges that sit firmly against the bottom of the body. I will probably just squeeze some silicone into the small opening on either side and call it good.

Things that still need done:

Finish putting engine bay back together
Finish wiring and installing gauges
Connect up ground and power wires to the battery in the rear of the car - waiting on a fuse holder for 1/0 wire
Finish painting as much of the car as I can
Bleed the brakes - pray no leaks
Fill the trans with fluid
Fill the coolant system
Finish installing the intake - waiting on a coupler
Weld on two hangers for the exhaust
A couple other small odds and ends


Goal is to have it started and running next weekend.

[Golddeenoh]

I'm so following this

yes i still get on nearly everyday, i just don't always comment or read through everything.

[brushforhire]

Oh man, I am so close to starting this little monster. I welded the exhaust last night, still no extra hangers yet, though. I will get to them later. I put a new oil filter and oil in the engine.

As a side note, remembering to turn on the shielding gas really helps, lol.

So far it looks like a start and run will happen this weekend! Then I just gotta finish the painting and then I can start driving it again.

[ArmstrongRacing]

awesome!

[fnkngrv]

W00t W00t

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

[brushforhire]

It lives! I officially started it about 20 minutes ago! It sounds fantastic. So much better than I could have hoped for. Tomorrow I hope to test drive it, and take a quick video of the sound of this little beast. Should it road worthy for next week, I hope.

I do have a check engine light, but I am hoping it is something simple like the MAF sensor. I just used the used one that came with the little piece for my intake, and I am thinking it may be bad. I will change to the new a/m one I bought and see if that helps. Brakes are all bled and seem to be working in good order. I did so many things at once to this, I wanna take me time and make sure nothing falls off, when I finally take it out on the road.

Edit: Video delayed, still trying to get a few odds and ends together before driving. Ugh.

[fnkngrv]

Good to hear. I just got my sedan back after cleaning the fuel system and installing the new resonator. I am super excited that I can now drive it.

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awesome man! Congrats and welcome to the dark side! LOL!

[ern-diz]

So jelly!

[brushforhire]

Okay, so I gave it a test drive today! Fantastic. I got a CEL and I gotta get it checked. I have to finish the painting, and a few other adjustments, like setting the proper height for coilovers.

I will get a video up the sound soon.

[Frank the Tank]

what was the CEL for?

[brushforhire]

Not sure yet, I know one problem was a bad MAF sensor, but even after disconnecting the battery and letting it sit, the CEL came back on.

I am finishing the painting this week and will drive it to work on Monday and have them check the CEL.

I am thinking a bad 02 sensor, but I am hoping it is something simple. I will keep you all updated.

Pictures, and possibly video on monday! The car looks so goofy with only partial painting being done right now. Lol

[brushforhire]

I drove it to work today. Turns out I have the P0977 code and P2770 code. I will double check my grounding and see if is loose. I am hoping that might be why it doesn't really feel like it has more power at this point.

I am pretty sure I know what happened.

I grounded pin 10 to the tranmission, thinking that was the one I wanted. It is not. I need to ground out pin 9, but the XD harness does not have a pin 9. So I need to add PIN 9, and then reconnect pin 10 to the harness. I will simply move the ground from 10 to 9, and then take one of the pins from the yaris harness and solder it back to wire 10 on the xd harness. The worst part it pulling pins. Ugh.

[brushforhire]

Okay so I moved the grounded wire to pin location 9, and added another wire/pin to location 10 and reconnected the wire to the ecu. CEL's gone!

If you use the XD harness the transmission plug only has 8 pins. You need nine. All you need to do is add a pin/wire from the yaris trans plug to location 9 and ground that out.

Still super simple, just a tad different. Runs much better.

As promised video of exhaust!

Exhaust (https://youtu.be/zJADq86D3kE) I can say that it does sound a bit deeper in person, the phone's mic sucks.

And a quick pic of how it sits right now. Still have a few odds and ends to finish, but definitely better.

57085

I have noticed what feels like torque steer.

[tmontague]

I can't remember, is your car auto or standard?

[CrankyOldMan]

Auto. He the CELs were for transmission solenoid open/short connections.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Glad to see those diagrams helped!

And now we have 2 fully functional 2zr/auto swaps! Keep us updated!

[brushforhire]

Will do! After adjusting the coilovers a little more, I will be getting an alignment on thursday. I also got my stereo hooked back up. I can't even hear the exhaust anymore. :)

So far it seems like it is relearning the shifting for the transmission. It does some weird stuff, but doesn't seem to do it again.

I will have to get another video of the exhaust as a drive by and from a few feet away. My coworker just drove it home, and it sounds so much better than I thought it did. Barely even really noticeable.

[brushforhire]

So a quick rundown of everything I have in modifications so far:

2zrfe engine swap
Takada xD cold air intake
RPM Long tube header and midpipe
DC sports xD Muffler
Megan racing coilovers
MI braided SS brake lines
TRD rear sway bar
Polyurethane front and rear control arm bushings
Scion xD/corolla front calipers
Yaris S front rotors
Gauges: Oil Pressure, Tach, Volt (gotta hook these up)
Relocated battery to behind passenger seat on the floor.
Optima Yellowtop battery - size 35
I used 0/1 oversized power wire and ground wire. Between my stereo, and the battery relocation, I did not want to risk and power issues. I'd rather go bigger and not need it, then have to rerun wire a third time.
Removed the rear seat, and seat belts.

[tmontague]

Do you have a link for the poly rear bushings? Also how'd you find the install of them?

[brushforhire]

I don't have a link. I bought them on ebay, they are the ones that add caster to the wheels. I would just use regular ones if i did it again. They were a nightmare to get the bolts through.

To get the old bushings our I use our press at work. I also used the press to get the new ones in.

[brushforhire]

I just tried to change the spark plugs, because I have no idea if they are original, aftermarket crap, etc.

Wish I would have done that before putting it in the car or putting the cowl panel back on.

It is a seriously tight fight, plus it uses a special super thin wall 14 mm socket. Regular 5/8 socket fits over the plug fine, but will not fit over the plug in the tube in the head.

[beaker]

I just tried to change the spark plugs, because I have no idea if they are original, aftermarket crap, etc.

Wish I would have done that before putting it in the car or putting the cowl panel back on.

It is a seriously tight fight, plus it uses a special super thin wall 14 mm socket. Regular 5/8 socket fits over the plug fine, but will not fit over the plug in the tube in the head.

this may help

https://store.snapon.com/Standard-mm-Socket-Metric-Spark-Plug-Extra-Long-14-mm-6-Point-P758173.aspx

[ArmstrongRacing]

...So far it seems like it is relearning the shifting for the transmission. It does some weird stuff, but doesn't seem to do it again.

Because the valve body is different between the Yaris U340 and Xd U341 auto trans, it does feel a bit strange for a while. The good news is that the Xd ECM shift maps are SO MUCH better and your trans will be more responsive to grades and throttle input.

[brushforhire]

It is much, much better to drive. I got the alignment done today.

As a side note my weird torque steering issues, were because the front control arm bolts were loose enough to let the control arms move side to side. So that is fixed now.

I readjusted the pretension on the front spring and it alleviated the bounciness of the ride.

Only the toe on the left side was out a little bit. So nothing to bad on the alignment.

I gotta get the wiring and fuses cleaned up in the engine bay and this will be pretty much done.

I will get some pictures up, soon, of my car. Want to finish a few exterior things so it will look better.

Also, the brakes are awesome. Stainless braided lines and Xd from calipers/pads make a huge difference.

I will start a new thread with just the facts, and as much how-to only info as I can. Including anything we, as a community, have come across doing this swap. I want to try and make this as clear and dry for others to do as possible.

[WeeYari]

I will start a new thread with just the facts, and as much how-to only info as I can. Including anything we, as a community, have come across doing this swap. I want to try and make this as clear and dry for others to do as possible.

Awesome job man. So jelly!

For the new thread, do what Cranky has done and 'reserve' a bunch of posts for your documentation. Otherwise, pollution will happen.

[tmontague]

Aaamazing, glad you're loving the swap. I'm really looking forward to the new thread w/ just the facts from the swap. Like it was said above, reserve some space for yourself

[brushforhire]

LoL, the first thing I thought when I saw what Cranky did, was "I am so doing that". It was a great idea

Also, if anyone needs any help I am also available. I know Armstrongracing really helped this get started, but I want to make myself available.

The Takada intake fits nearly perfectly, also. I just gotta get a new reducer coupler to correct a length issue. I have two couplers back to back right now as a makeshift reducer and it makes it a tad to long to line up the mounting holes.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Love it man! Great work!!

[junorico24]

In australia there's 2zr-fae is this same engine?

[Frank the Tank]

In australia there's 2zr-fae is this same engine?

Same engine but with new technology and a little more HP

[brushforhire]

So here are two quick pics of my engine bay. I still have to do some wire tidying, but it is coming along nicely. I'm happy with it. The intake does fit nicely. I couldn't really get the top mounting point to align until the vehicle was on the ground. The bottom hole does not line up. It is pretty secure and I've put several hundred miles with no issues on it.

57144
57145

Also a surprise. I was just gonna drill three holes in the glove box lid to mount my three gauges, but I plan on turboing this, and really didn't want to have gauges on the a pillar. So I decided to fiberglass a gauge pod setup. It will house my tach, volt gauge, oil pressure, boost, coolant temp, and AFR.
I'm not totally sure on the timeline for the turbo, but I am hoping before the year is out.

57146
57147
57148
57149

The gauge pod will have a bolt on face, so that I can take it off to service anything that may need fixed or replaced. The main housing will stay bolted into the dash. I am thinking I might wrap the top in carbon fiber, but I don't know how motivated I will be to do that. LoL.

[CrankyOldMan]

Nice! I had considered using those expanding foam packaging inserts to make a positive mold of it, but didn't want it to leak all over. I ended up using cereal boxes and tape to get the outlines of the shapes and then laser cut it from acrylic.

[brushforhire]

So I finally got the speed signal from the ABS module figured out. It really ended up being stick the wire in the hole, test drive, rinse and repeat, until I got it.

So I am using this as my speed signal and will remove the rest of the speed sensor wiring from the stock tranny. I will use the power supply to the sensor to power the MAF sensor instead of using the add-a-circuit.

More so just being anal about my wiring.

Here are pics of where I ended getting the signal from. It is the white wire, fourth from the left, in the top row, including the two bigger wires.
57160
I simply cut the pink speed signal wire, and spiced the wire to it going into the fuse box.
57161

I already added this info to the sticky, so future swaps using any trans other than the stock ones that have the speed sensor, can steal the signal from the ABS module, or just redo wiring for cleaning up the engine bay purposes.

I also double checked the speed on the gauge against my GPS unit, and they were almost exact. So both are way off, or both are dead on. :laugh:

[ArmstrongRacing]

Great work man!

[thebarber]

Awesome job man. So jelly!

For the new thread, do what Cranky has done and 'reserve' a bunch of posts for your documentation. Otherwise, pollution will happen.

2zr time, wee?

[RagnaCaT]

Hello!!! So sorry I missed out on this Thread!!! Any help let me know going to start reading it all now!!!

[brushforhire]

Hello!!! So sorry I missed out on this Thread!!! Any help let me know going to start reading it all now!!!

Awesome, thanks!

Also did a just the facts thread here: Official how-to (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56678).

[RagnaCaT]

Awesome, thanks!

Also did a just the facts thread here: Official how-to (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56678).

So much info it was great to read all of it!!! So glad more people are jumping on the swap.... In my personal opinion more power for the monet you can spend modding a 1NZ. Glad you you also went with the RPM Header love mines since day 1.
I just reswapped my 2 year old 2ZRFE with a a 12,000 mile one this sunday. Going to work on the internals, see how much power can be achieved