f2raf
02-26-2016, 11:37 AM
I have a 1.3 Auto Yaris 2000
2 years ago it was very slow to accellerate from junctions, would take 10 seconds before throttle response kicked in, at the time i changed the MAF with a second hand part and it has been running perfectly fince since. Until recently i serviced the car. The recommended oil is 5/30 but I used 0/30 as I had some lying around and the manufacturer said it meets the specs for my car. The car is used for the school run, shortly after the service the same problem reoccurred where it was terribly slow to pull away from junctions, particularly in the mornings on first start. I noticed that the air filter box was not sealed properly, the rear notches where not in thier correct position so it was not flush shut. I realigned it and shut it but it feels as if the new air filter i put in is almost too big, as without the filter it shuts fine with the filter its a struggle, but its the correct part. It then ran fine and i thoght problem fixed but not for long a few days later same thing again, so i suspected the MAF need changing. I purchased another second hand MAF and it fixed the problem, for a few days anyway, runs much better, but wondering if the second hand MAF was on its way out anyway.
Before i buy a NEW MAF wondering could it be linked to the oil, having used 0/30 instead of 5/30, its thinner? but my mechanic reckons its will not be the oil or filter , there is no EML on and are no engine codes. should i try & replace the filter first with another Brand, it will be the least expensive initial solution. Are there any specific filters the car prefers, the new replacement filter is a Bosch. I might ad in the mix a month ago the EML did come on and the car was shaking, it was a coil thing gone which the car replaced and I could argue the issues have not been better since, sorry for the lenghthy detail this is my first post in a long time.
2 years ago it was very slow to accellerate from junctions, would take 10 seconds before throttle response kicked in, at the time i changed the MAF with a second hand part and it has been running perfectly fince since. Until recently i serviced the car. The recommended oil is 5/30 but I used 0/30 as I had some lying around and the manufacturer said it meets the specs for my car. The car is used for the school run, shortly after the service the same problem reoccurred where it was terribly slow to pull away from junctions, particularly in the mornings on first start. I noticed that the air filter box was not sealed properly, the rear notches where not in thier correct position so it was not flush shut. I realigned it and shut it but it feels as if the new air filter i put in is almost too big, as without the filter it shuts fine with the filter its a struggle, but its the correct part. It then ran fine and i thoght problem fixed but not for long a few days later same thing again, so i suspected the MAF need changing. I purchased another second hand MAF and it fixed the problem, for a few days anyway, runs much better, but wondering if the second hand MAF was on its way out anyway.
Before i buy a NEW MAF wondering could it be linked to the oil, having used 0/30 instead of 5/30, its thinner? but my mechanic reckons its will not be the oil or filter , there is no EML on and are no engine codes. should i try & replace the filter first with another Brand, it will be the least expensive initial solution. Are there any specific filters the car prefers, the new replacement filter is a Bosch. I might ad in the mix a month ago the EML did come on and the car was shaking, it was a coil thing gone which the car replaced and I could argue the issues have not been better since, sorry for the lenghthy detail this is my first post in a long time.