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View Full Version : Car cranks but won't start after fuel pump replacement


Lightrfire
02-29-2016, 04:56 PM
So a few days ago my car cut out on me while I was driving. Towed it home and found out the fuel pump was dead. I changed the fuel pump with a new Toyota fuel pump and the car still will not start even with gas flowing through the lines. im getting 12v during crank at the fuel pump and with the line removed at the fuel rail I can physically see gas flowing out of the line. I checked spark on all 4 cut and spark is ok. I used a node light on all 4 injector connectors and that's fine as well. No check engine codes and the ecu is reading fine through my scan tool. I don't have a fuel pressure tester but it seems to be coming out ok. Haven't checked timing but the crank sounds healthy and normal. The old fuel pump was tested with 12v and it was indeed dead. I'm lost.... Any other ideas someone can throw my way?

tmontague
02-29-2016, 05:40 PM
Check your grounds that are bolted to the engine block.

This screwed with me twice when I took the head off of my Echo.

If you have a scan tool with it's own power supply plug it in and see if it runs. If it does than its the ground and it is grounding through your scan tool. The car will die once unplugged if that's the case

Lightrfire
02-29-2016, 07:25 PM
I checked the grounds as you suggested and they seem to be fine. I'm getting 0 ohms ground to block so I know it's grounded well

tmontague
02-29-2016, 08:28 PM
Are you getting a spark? You have fuel, but what about spark and compression. This likely has something to do w/ the earlier issue regarding the fuel pump but i'm not sure

EDIT*. Just re read your first post and you have spark. Anyone know of a reset switch anywhere sort of like a crash cut off found in ol Fords? I can't see why it's not catching if you have compression, fuel and spark

CTScott
02-29-2016, 09:30 PM
Are you getting a spark? You have fuel, but what about spark and compression. This likely has something to do w/ the earlier issue regarding the fuel pump but i'm not sure

EDIT*. Just re read your first post and you have spark. Anyone know of a reset switch anywhere sort of like a crash cut off found in ol Fords? I can't see why it's not catching if you have compression, fuel and spark

No - nothing like that for the Yaris. If the plugs are firing and injectors are clicking, the car should be firing. If it is not, then it should smell mighty flooded. If it does not, then either the injectors are not really firing or the pressure is too low to push fuel through them.

Lightrfire
02-29-2016, 09:45 PM
I'm going to get a compression tester and check compression tomorrow just to eliminate that as a cause. Are these cars known to jump timing out of the blue? It was seriously all fine before the fuel pump gave out I'm so confused... I've checked everything so far except for compression so I'll give that a try tomrrow since that's all that's left...

CTScott
02-29-2016, 10:32 PM
I'm going to get a compression tester and check compression tomorrow just to eliminate that as a cause. Are these cars known to jump timing out of the blue? It was seriously all fine before the fuel pump gave out I'm so confused... I've checked everything so far except for compression so I'll give that a try tomrrow since that's all that's left...

With a timing chain, it is very difficult for timing to be an issue. If you try to crank it for a bit, does the exhaust smell like gas?

bronsin
03-01-2016, 08:32 AM
Apply gas or ether to the air intake. If it kicks you got no gas. If it don't you got no spark. Simple.

How's the fuses?

Good luck and tell us what happens.

Lightrfire
03-01-2016, 08:45 AM
I tried adding carb cleaner to the throttle while cranking with no luck. Spark has been verified already. All four are sparking

tmontague
03-01-2016, 09:46 AM
How did you determine that your fuel pump was originally faulty? The reason I ask is that the Yaris fuel pump is not known to commonly go. If this is the case then the original problem wasn't addressed hence the lack of start. What I find weird is that the car has never started since it originally cut out when you were driving. Seems that there may be another issue that happened and that still isn't fixed. Although what that issue is, is not very clear at this point.

As for timing, the chain can't really ever move by itself unless the timing cover was removed and tampered with.

Bluevitz-rs
03-01-2016, 10:46 AM
did you unplug either the injectors or the coils?

Make sure they're plugged back into the right spots.

bronsin
03-01-2016, 11:47 AM
How did you determine that your fuel pump was originally faulty? The reason I ask is that the Yaris fuel pump is not known to commonly go. If this is the case then the original problem wasn't addressed hence the lack of start. What I find weird is that the car has never started since it originally cut out when you were driving. Seems that there may be another issue that happened and that still isn't fixed. Although what that issue is, is not very clear at this point.

As for timing, the chain can't really ever move by itself unless the timing cover was removed and tampered with.

I agree.

bronsin
03-01-2016, 11:48 AM
I tried adding carb cleaner to the throttle while cranking with no luck. Spark has been verified already. All four are sparking

Hmm does cc work? I would try gas,ether.

Lightrfire
03-01-2016, 02:22 PM
I completely agree with you on the timing but I'm so out of ideas it's the last thing to check. The fuel pump check was simple. I got 12v during cranking. I pulled the fuel line off and cranked the car. No fuel came out. Pulled the pump out of the tank and put direct 12v to it and it didn't turn on. Changed the pump and now fuel comes out.

I did verify the elec plugs are all plugged in correctly and before I pulled the plugs off I marked them to which cyl so no mistakes there.

Lightrfire
03-01-2016, 02:30 PM
Oh to ct Scott the spark plugs were wet with gas after cranking so fuel does seem to be coming out of the injectors. I am wondering though if the injectors are plugged up though because when I initially changed the pump the gas that came out was black and was filthy.

tmontague
03-01-2016, 02:39 PM
you can try soaking them in some seafoam. Using rubber fuel line, a 9v battery and alligator clips I was able to make an injector cleaning rig. I put the rubber line on top of the injector and filled it with seafoam. The put my mouht on it and puffed my cheeks with air to pressurize it. Then use the battery with wire to pulse the injector. Quite a bit of dirt was found in the used seafoam.

It's rudimentary but works. I just can't help but think this is an ecu issue purposely not starting the car due to some sort of auto engine cut off or something tied into the fuel pump. That being said, I'm not aware of this even being a thing on the Yaris.

Lightrfire
03-02-2016, 12:25 AM
Compression test done after 5 revolutions all the cylinders are 110 across the board.... I also got desperate enough to pull the fuel rail and injectors to see if they were spraying properly and they were. Pulled the spark plugs and connected them to the coil and grounded on the valve cover. The plugs are sparking strong. So I have fuel, spark, compression. Air filter was new but I removed it anyway to see if it was obstructing air flow. I think I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and send it to a shop to diagnose which really sucks. I haven't taken any car I've owned to a shop for anything other than alignment and wheel balances. My pride is in shambles lol

Bluevitz-rs
03-02-2016, 01:02 AM
110 is really low. My old engine tested around 190 and after a few drops of oil in the cylinders 220-230.

It's possible your cylinder walls have washed down and your rings aren't sealing.

Put in a few drops of fresh oil in through the spark plug holes and retest your compression.

Lightrfire
03-02-2016, 08:39 AM
Crap you are absolutely right.... I forgot to add oil. I'll try again today after work

Lightrfire
03-04-2016, 07:40 PM
Just a quick update.. Tried the compression test again with oil and I'm getting 180 in cyl 1 and 4. 2 and 3 are only around 120 in cyl 2 and 3. I pulled the valve cover off and cranked the motor by hand and the cam gears line up perfectly including the chain paint marks. Is there a timing mark on the crank pulley? Or does it need to be removed and checked on the crank sprocket in the timing cover? If the timing is ok then the only thing I can think of is just to swap the motor unless there are any other ideas. I'm thinking when the fuel pump died the motor leaned out and burned a piston or valve because there is no other plausible explanation.

tmontague
03-04-2016, 08:08 PM
You'll see a notch on the crank pulley that should line up with the 0 on the 0-10 ruler that sticks off of the timing cover and sits just above the crank pulley.

When installing the crank pulley you match the hole on it with a small metal dowel/tab that comes out of the crank shaft. This is to ensure the crank pulley is in line with the crankshaft correctly.

Judging by your numbers a valve is gone in each cylinder or the timing is somehow off (doubtful). The only way I know of confirming th is by taking the head off. Bit of a pain due to having to remove the timing cover.

Bluevitz-rs
03-05-2016, 09:22 AM
If you can get a leak down tester or simply hook compressed air up to each cylinder you'll be able to confirm where the leak is coming from.

sv650steve
03-05-2016, 06:19 PM
I know this sounds obvious but pull the check dip stick, i've seen engines fill up with gas after flooding, and refuse to start. Probably not the problem but it's worth checking.

Bluevitz-rs
03-05-2016, 07:04 PM
I know this sounds obvious but pull the check dip stick, i've seen engines fill up with gas after flooding, and refuse to start. Probably not the problem but it's worth checking.

X2

Forgot about extreme flooding an engine. And yes it is possible that it now needs an oil change. From personal experience on a test vehicle when I worked at Toyota Canada.

Lightrfire
03-07-2016, 12:12 AM
So today I tried starting the car with a can of starter fluid and it started right up! I tried this with carb cleaner before but it wouldn't start so I guess that wasn't flammable enough. After running for a little bit it died again and wouldn't restart like before. So I have some sort of fuel issue for sure. The pump is definitely working I pulled the line off the fuel rail and put it in a plastic bottle and cranked for a few seconds and gas fills the bottle. The injectors are definitely getting power. I even pulled the whole fuel rail and injector set off the engine and cranked it to see the gas spray out of all 4 injectors. I pulled the fuel pump assembly out to see if the regulator was clogged and maybe pressure was an issue but it seems clean and ok visually. I think I need to check fuel pressure next but I'm not sure how to on this car. I don't see a test port in the engine bay. Does anyone have any ideas?

Lightrfire
03-07-2016, 12:15 AM
Oh and I did an oil change today like suggested. Oil was definitely ok still but at this point it couldn't hurt

NYC-SE
03-07-2016, 04:23 AM
Well then like you said it's definitely a fuel issue. Are you ABSOLUTELY sure that you have the correct wires plugged into the corresponding injectors? With the symptoms you describe that is the only thing I can think of that would result in the engine not firing.

bronsin
03-07-2016, 08:18 AM
So I was right!

Is the fuel pump relay working?

I suspect your old fuel pump was OK and the trouble was elsewhere,

Bluevitz-rs
03-07-2016, 09:00 AM
you need to use an inline tester for fuel pressure. Where the flexible line connects to the hard line in the engine bay.

Lightrfire
03-07-2016, 11:07 AM
Relay has to be ok simply because I'm getting fuel during crank. As stated before the old pump is 100% dead. Connected to 12v it won't kick on.

Lightrfire
03-07-2016, 11:58 AM
I called a few part stores to see if they have an inline pressure tester but the all see to have the one that connects to a shraeder valve.. Any tips on somewhere to rent one?

Lightrfire
03-09-2016, 07:42 PM
Well I finally got this damn car started finally. If anyone experiences this check the o ring on the opposite end of the sock. Mine had a slight tear in it causing this diagnostic disaster. I guess it gives the fuel line just enough pressured or gas to come out of the line like normal but not enough pressure to start. Holy hell am I glad to be done with this.

CTScott
03-09-2016, 08:10 PM
Well I finally got this damn car started finally. If anyone experiences this check the o ring on the opposite end of the sock. Mine had a slight tear in it causing this diagnostic disaster. I guess it gives the fuel line just enough pressured or gas to come out of the line like normal but not enough pressure to start. Holy hell am I glad to be done with this.

Wow! Great find.

bronsin
03-10-2016, 03:30 AM
Greatest Sherlock Holmes i ever heard of.

:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow: