Install a backup camera on a yaris 2010?

[aplaceinthesky]

Hello,can anyone point me to a good install guide for a backup camera on a toyota yaris or gives me some advice ?
Does anyone can explain me the cable for the rear lights ?
Thank you

http://i68.tinypic.com/35klhc6.jpg

[Exiwolfman]

Why ?

[aplaceinthesky]

what you mean why ?
why my first post was deleted ?

[Exiwolfman]

Why a back up camera on a small car like Yaris.

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

[kevinj93]

I installed a backup camera on my 2012 delivered hatchback because my wife was used to one on the previous vehicle, and insisted she wanted it for use in the supermarket car park.

Bought the camera and screen from eBay. It took about an hour and a half to install taking my time to run the wiring.

[aplaceinthesky]

@Exiwolfman I live in Rome, you don't know how much difficult is the parking here, and I just want to be sure I don't hit anything its just a safe mesure. If you or someone else can help I will be very gratefull

@Kavinj93: Can you help me ?

[kevinj93]

I'm not sure what model Yaris you have.. I have a 5 door series 3 hatchback. On this, there is a plastic filler that fits in the rear hatch where the factory camera would fit. The interior lining om the hatch is held in by plastic clips. Just start at a corner and pull the lining away from the door, working from clip to clip..Nearly every panel removes the same way.

I drilled a hole in the camera place panel to run the camera wire through. Afterwards, this need to be sealed. I used a non hardening "coax seal" to seal this.

The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof. From there to the side of the roof and split the wiring to get switched power and earth at the reversing light, and down to the floor for the video feed cable. The kick plates at the bottom of the door frames pull out to reveal a wiring channel. You can run the camera wiring through this to the front of the cabin..

The camera I bought came with a mirror / screen that clips over the original rear view mirror. This needed 12 volt power, switched 12 volts to activate when reverse is selected, ground and the video feedd from the camera. I ran a wire from the reversing light to feed the screen, and fed this to both of the power inputs to the screen. All wire joins were soldered and insulated. I felt the easiest place to get groung and switched 12 volt power was across one of the reversing ligyt globes the power requirements for the screen and camera are quite low.

The instruction that came with the camera and screen recommended only having one power pickup point for the system to avoid earth loops which cn degrade the video quality.

If you want to avoid running so much wiring, there are wireless cqmera kits available, but you still ned to get poeer for the screen and camera.

[Exiwolfman]

http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_126174.html?currency=CAD&gclid=Cj0KEQiAsP-2BRCFl4Lb2NTJttEBEiQAmj2tbUIcYOTIPxn_PrrfIWFtcPDgX _eCegiBd-OEm2XhANoaAjtd8P8HAQ

you need something like this , go to link .

[jcboy]

an aftermarket "OEM" reverse cam will have usually have 3 wires to connect:
1. red for +12V of reverse lights (or +12V constant supply)
2. black for GND of reverse lights
3. RCA cable that will run all the way to the front
4. (sometimes) a red wire that runs to the front (that is shorted to #1) that connects to the reverse wire from the headunit ("signals" that you are in reverse)

if you connect #1 to constat +12V, meaning you can view cam even when not in reverse (Pioneer HUs), you shouldnt use #4; you have to get the reverse signal from the underdash fusebox to connect to HU wire.

hope this helps.

[weevil]

Why a back up camera on a small car like Yaris.
Spoken like someone without small children.

[Exiwolfman]

Spoken like someone without small children.

Yup no kids :w00t:

[weevil]

The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof.
Yeah threading it through the hatch looks super, super difficult. The path is crescent shaped and ends in a thin rubber tube housing the factory wiring. Looks like it will be the most frustrating exercise in the world, not looking forward to it.

I’ve looked around but can’t find any info on accessing ceiling once/if I make it that far with the cable. Any tips on how to do this?

[kevinj93]

The roof lining (on my series 3) has one clip that needs to be popped out.

The cover on the rear side pillar can be popped off fairly easily like most other internal panels. you only need a big enough gap to get your hand inside the lining.

Use an old wire coat hanger straightened out, or a flexible plastic rod to go around the back window. Once you have fed it through, you can attach the cable from the camera to the end and draw it through.

it's best to remove the flexible rubber tube from the hatch, rather than the body when running through into the roof lining. poke the draw wire or rod back through the tube to pull the camera cable through into the roof. you can then easily get to the side and run down to the rear light assembly for power from the reversing light.

the plastic pieces along the bottom of the door frames holding the edges of the carpet lift off to give access to a wiring channel. you can use these to get the cable to the dashboard.

[ezhacker1]

Mine is attached to the spoiler, where the hatch water sprayer would be. Mounted high up because it acts as a rear DVR as well, so i get the entire car/people behind me.

Cable runs through the 3rd brake light and around the hatch moulding into the car tucked under the trim panels leading up to the DVR mirror clip on.

[weevil]

The roof lining (on my series 3) has one clip that needs to be popped out.

The cover on the rear side pillar can be popped off fairly easily like most other internal panels. you only need a big enough gap to get your hand inside the lining.

Use an old wire coat hanger straightened out, or a flexible plastic rod to go around the back window. Once you have fed it through, you can attach the cable from the camera to the end and draw it through.

it's best to remove the flexible rubber tube from the hatch, rather than the body when running through into the roof lining. poke the draw wire or rod back through the tube to pull the camera cable through into the roof. you can then easily get to the side and run down to the rear light assembly for power from the reversing light.

the plastic pieces along the bottom of the door frames holding the edges of the carpet lift off to give access to a wiring channel. you can use these to get the cable to the dashboard.
Ah, after poking around the car a little that is all starting to make some sense now, thanks very much.

Is the roof lining clip at the rear near the middle? Worried about yanking it too hard and ripping the lining.

Also unsure about the rear light assembly and getting power from the reversing light (understand the concept just not sure where the assembly is and what plugs into what).

Never done anything like this in a car before. My camera hasn’t actually arrived yet, hoping it will have some doco that will help colour in the wiring picture a little.

[weevil]

Yup no kids :w00t:

They change your perspective on all sorts of things. :wink:

[kevinj93]

Ah, after poking around the car a little that is all starting to make some sense now, thanks very much.

Is the roof lining clip at the rear near the middle? Worried about yanking it too hard and ripping the lining.

Also unsure about the rear light assembly and getting power from the reversing light (understand the concept just not sure where the assembly is and what plugs into what).

Never done anything like this in a car before. My camera hasn’t actually arrived yet, hoping it will have some doco that will help colour in the wiring picture a little.


Yes, that's the clip. You can get a screw driver or two under the lining and lever it down. The clip will pop out easily.

I ran 2 wires down to the rear light assembly and tapped into the wires near the reversing light globe. The ground wire is white with a black stripe. The other wire is red with a blue stripe. This gets +12 volts when reverse gear is selected.

It's a good idea to use some cable ties to tie the camera cable tight (but not stretched) from the entry to the hatch down to near the camera. If the cable is left loose where is passes down the side for the rear window it will rattle when you hit a bump. Yes, I found that out the hard way...

[weevil]

So this is a pretty handy link.

http://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/3556cc19-69f9-4cd2-861c-a4f052cf4701/Yaris_Rear_camera_PZ457_B0140_00_AIM_003_187_0.pdf

From what I can tell this setup looks completely plug and play? They certainly do enjoy a good cable tie. I think the OEM cameras are 6v not 12v so can take this from the stock head unit? Suppose will figure it all out when it gets here.

[ercdvs]

I have a 2010 yaris liftack and this interests me too, but i cant see any existing plstic cut out / spot where the camera would go on my hatch.

is this just a euopean thing for 2010 ?

[kevinj93]

I have a 2010 yaris liftack and this interests me too, but i cant see any existing plstic cut out / spot where the camera would go on my hatch.

is this just a euopean thing for 2010 ?

I'm not sure of the model changeover years - we go by build date here in Australia. My hatchback was built in February 2012. I guess that makes it a 2013 model in the USA. This has a removable panel a few inched to the left of the hatch release (near where the lock would be if fitted) under the lip of the trim piece. The number plate is on the hatch, not in the rear bumper like the earlier model.

Sorry if this caused any confusion.

[weevil]

I found the Toyota instructions on how to install the camera online. I posted the link here but got a message about my post requiring mod approval. Sucks to be a noob I suppose.

Posted it this morning, no sign of it yet.

[invader166]

I have a 2010 yaris liftack and this interests me too, but i cant see any existing plstic cut out / spot where the camera would go on my hatch.

is this just a euopean thing for 2010 ?

I'm actually working on installing a back-up camera in my 2009 liftback. I have all the pieces I need, now it's just a matter of installing it.

How I'm doing it is by replacing the licence plate light with a special aftermarket bracket that has a back-up camera built into it. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121697810323?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

...and wiring it to an aftermarket head-unit I previously installed. If you want to keep your head-unit though, you can order a rear-view mirror with a built in LCD monitor to replace the original mirror, to have a more factory look. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Turn-On-5-LCD-Rear-View-Mirror-Monitor-12V-Power-For-Vehicle-Reverse-Cam-/301766738308?hash=item4642b30184:g:1BEAAOxydINSaS2 v&vxp=mtr)

[ercdvs]

Can anyone tell me, on the back of the yaris (liftback) what that black plastic/rubber part is on the top center ?

not the antenna, but on the very top of the gate dead center in this picture
http://imgur.com/xOdY4wr

[NYC-SE]

The nozzle for the window washer.

[ercdvs]

ooooohhhhhh


derp.

[weevil]

The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof. Holy smokes you are not kidding. I've hit a complete brick wall at this point. Can't even get the coat hanger by itself more than about 30cm into the rear door. No amount of jiggling, poking or shoving will get it the slightest bit further.

Super, super frustrating.

[kevinj93]

Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade.:thumbup:

Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through.

When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction.

[weevil]

Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade.:thumbup:

Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through.

When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction.
Phew, that was an epic. Thanks very much for your help, made all the difference.

Was using a dry cleaner’s coat hanger, but the manual says to do it from the bottom. From the top is certainly the way to go. Def not dead straight, it takes a bit of a dogleg in near the start and need to bend the hanger a little, that is the key. Once you get past that the rest is easier.

For the grommet at the top I found a YouTube video with some good advice. Pushed a long cable tie through first. Has just the right flexibility and strength to get through. Gaffer taped the wires to it and put a little liquid soap on the gaffer tape. The soap really helped the wires slide through a lot easier. Put some gaff around the RCA plug at the end with a little soap and a bit of ‘gentle’ persuasion I could ‘milk’ the plug all the way down the grommet.

Can only do a little bit each day so still a way to go, but making really good progress now. That should be the hard part.

[kevinj93]

Glad you got it through.

It's mostly pull off panels from there on, or just tuck the cable under the edges of the trim while keeping clear of the airbags.

[weevil]

Glad you got it through.
...I didn’t actually get through it. Been pretty much a nightmare. Running the rest of the cable was okay, tapping the break light was nearly impossible, 3 different taps all failed to work. Ended up taking it to an auto electrician who agreed it was a particularly fiddley and annoying job, took him well over an hour simply to connect the two wires.

Then once finally got power to the camera discovered my OEM head unit is wired strangely and have had to send the adaptor harness back to be replaced.

Saw the camera display in an external monitor for about 10 seconds, after all this time that is as close as I’ve gotten.

[ercdvs]

what was up with the brake light tap? I expect to do the same thing in a few days when it gets here

[weevil]

what was up with the brake light tap? I expect to do the same thing in a few days when it gets here

Think it may have been the different gauge of the wires. In theory it’s super simple but none of them worked. It’s a super confined, awkward space and the reverse wire is very, very short.

I was not going to buy a solder kit just to do the one job and it was seriously annoying me so just took it to the shop around the corner.

[cparker]

This is a wide angle plastic lens that is applied to the back window. It's 8 x 10 and is available at Camping World and Amazon.com . You often see them on motorhomes, vans and mini buses. They help in backing and parallel parking. Even in a Yaris ,the view out the back window isn't all that good if you want to see something short a couple feet behind. The view from my back window to the ground is about 30 ft. , With the lens it's as little as 2 feet. The biggest problem with these lenses are sky reflections on the bottom 3rd of the lens , unless it's applied to a vertical window. So I had to cut that 3rd off , and that helped. The photo shows the lens which is applied with water to the inside of the window. The other shows the view from the inside looking back. The photos are poor quality, but are better when reduced from your computer.Normally , only the gate can be seen. With the lens you can see the driveway before the gate. So you don't have to worry about running into a small kid or pet. This is a much less expensive alternative to a backup camera. The lens is like a convex mirror, so images will look distorted. But you get a much wider view.

Updated a day later. Decided to move the lens to the left side of the rear window, because when I'm driving I want to be able to see cars driving behind me at a distance. This lens is like a convex mirror, showing objects close behind best. Tried using it for parallel parking and it's helpful.

[weevil]

...I didn’t actually get through it. Been pretty much a nightmare. Running the rest of the cable was okay, tapping the break light was nearly impossible, 3 different taps all failed to work. Ended up taking it to an auto electrician who agreed it was a particularly fiddley and annoying job, took him well over an hour simply to connect the two wires.

Then once finally got power to the camera discovered my OEM head unit is wired strangely and have had to send the adaptor harness back to be replaced.

Saw the camera display in an external monitor for about 10 seconds, after all this time that is as close as I’ve gotten.

It's the project that just keeps on going...Finally...got the replacement harness today. Completely wrong, does not even plug into the head unit.

This is an epic.

[ercdvs]

.....and it took some work, but its complete!

http://i.imgur.com/lpPUMLal.jpg (http://imgur.com/lpPUMLa)

http://i.imgur.com/lpPUMLal.jpg (http://imgur.com/lpPUMLa)

http://i.imgur.com/XNzuj4Dl.jpg (http://imgur.com/XNzuj4D)

That being said the location of the map light makes the image a little too low for my liking, but it really does allow me to get up really close when parking. I have yet to do any tinkering to use it for a parallel parking cut

The hole for the light needs to be modified, so i can retain my map light function, and I am pulling power from the rear light, as i could not find a proper constant 12+ anywhere without cutting wires and pulling apart bundles. using the rear while going forward is just a novelty anyway.

Wires are coming up though the bumper, through the grommet under the plastic cover, into the wire harness area by the driver tail light, and then under the door trim until it hits the front seat... then across and under the center console.

[EbenTian]

Hi everyone...i am a new user here. In my case hardest part was feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof. From there to the side of the roof and split the wiring to get switched power and earth at the reversing light, and down to the floor for the video feed cable.