Cranky's 2ZR-FE swap

[CrankyOldMan]

Coming soon to a rear bumper near me:
http://i.imgur.com/lIjF1lH.png

This list is only for M/T swaps in a 2nd gen (07-10) HB!

I've been driving with the swap for a few weeks now and want to post up some feedback. For comparison, I've had a Blitz supercharger installed on my 1.5 for about 4 years now, and absolutely loved it, right up to the point where it rendered the engine unusable. I never had it on a dyno, but similar setups reported upwards of 140 BHP. In theory the 2ZR is a downgrade, but it's not really apples to apples when you talk displacement vs forced induction. First off, I miss the sound of the supercharger. It would turn heads and blow peoples' minds when they found out what it was. The 2ZR has less "wow factor", but for me the OEM reliability counts for a lot more. The Blitz pulls much harder off the line, but the 2ZR has more consistent power up in the VVT-i range.

All that said, I have to agree with CTScott's opinion that the 2ZR is in fact a better upgrade than forced induction.

Some notes:


The clutch and pressure plate appear to be unique part numbers for the xD. I don't know how this affects mating to other gearboxes.
An M/T wire harness is VERY difficult to find intact! You may have better luck sourcing an A/T and adding the backup switch wires yourself.
The M/T ECU is almost an exact match to the 09 pinout on the body side. The fusebox has a few wires that don't match/exist. I'll cover those in the wiring section.


Shopping list

2ZR-FE motor, long block: Scion xD, Toyota Corolla or Matrix, Pontiac Vibe
Intake manifold: same as motor
Throttle body: same as motor, unless you bypass the coolant lines
Air cleaner with MAF sensor: OEM or aftermarket intake, MAF part# 22204-31020
Engine control module (ECM): 89661-52F81, 89661-52F82
Engine wire harness: 82121-52E90
Passenger side engine mount (3 parts, plus fasteners): 12305-37040 (06/2007 - 11/2007) or 12305-37190 (01/2008 - 06/2014), 12315-37040, 12317-37010
Exhaust manifold: OEM or RPM long tube header
Mid pipe: OEM or RPM mid pipe
Axle-back exhaust: OEM or aftermarket
Alternator: OEM 27060-37040 or aftermarket
A/C compressor: OEM 88310-1A660 or aftermarket
Water pump: OEM 16100-39465 or aftermarket
Clutch: OEM 31250-12510 or aftermarket (limited selection!)
Pressure plate: OEM 31210-12291 or aftermarket (limited selection!)
Flywheel: OEM 13405-37050 or aftermarket (OEM no longer available!)
Starter: OEM 28100-37040 or aftermarket (OEM no longer available!)


There are several smaller parts that I had to source because I only had a bare longblock. I can work on a list of those, but it's probably easier for you to just find an xD at a junk yard and strip the engine bay.

[CrankyOldMan]

I was able to find an almost mint engine, but the tradeoff is that it was stripped all the way down to the long block. No accessories, no mounts, hardly any hardware, most of the brackets and hoses were gone, too. I also don't have a ready supply of 09+ 2ZR vehicles to scavenge parts from, so I've had to buy or barter for a lot of the parts that would come with it if you pulled it from a vehicle yourself. ArmstrongRacing has been a huge help with sourcing some of the larger items, as well as confirming what parts can be reused from the Yaris.

I replaced the crank position sensor and oil pressure switch because they were damaged in the process of bringing the engine home. For reference, the 2ZR will just fit into the hatch of the Yaris, if you remove all the wire harness attachment brackets and EGR valve from the top.

[CrankyOldMan]

Throttle body

There are two different configurations for the xD throttle body: one that is like the 1ZZ and one with a vacuum port at the top (as installed). The vacuum line from this goes to the brake booster. If you have the 1ZZ style TB, you need the hose that goes to the port on the plenum below the TB flange. If you have the xD style, you need the hose that goes to the TB. *Pics to follow*


Wiring

The xD engine wire harness is almost an exact match to the Yaris' engine fuse/relay block connectors, with the exception of the MAF sensor power: pin 9 on connector CA2 (male) is missing on the Yaris. There are a few different ways to go about this, but I'm planning to use either an OEM pin from a salvaged Yaris fuse/relay block and a fuse tap, or one of the existing powered, un-populated fuse slots.

The Yaris uses low-profile ATM style fuses, and the taps aren't usually available at auto parts stores. I got one from Amazon (Lumision) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that has a right angle head and a second fuse slot to add your new device. If I go this route, I'll just splice in the pigtail and poke it into the connector.

*EDIT* The other way is to use one of the un-populated slots. They're all powered from the bus side, you just have to insert a wire with the right connector to hook in a fuse. Super clean, no signs of aftermarket shenanigans. I took the wires out of a Yaris fuse box and found one that will work perfectly. I will use one of the empty fuse slots and populate the missing pin for the MAF sensor.


Hoses

Most of the hoses are application-specific, but the Yaris ones can be re-used if you're not concerned about odd bends or extra length. My engine was missing almost everything, so I bought aftermarket parts where available and new, OEM for the rest. Looking them up in the parts catalog is a mess, so I'll put up a list of parts at some point. The Yaris filler neck will not quite fit around the throttle body, and the hose from the radiator will be kinked. The xD filler neck mounts to the radiator instead of the TB, and uses different hoses.


Accessories

The alternator tension bracket was missing as well, so I just ordered new parts. It's the same as on the 2ZR Matrix/Vibe/xD, so you could get used ones from a u-pick yard.

The alternator is the same as the 2ZR Matrix/Vibe/xD.

The starter from the Yaris can be re-used, but preferably the cold-spec version. The xD is 1.8 kW - the standard Yaris one is only 0.8 kW, the cold spec is 1.8 kW. Connectors are identical, but placement is a little different.

Power steering is electrically driven, so there's no pump to mess with.

Air conditioning is optional. The compressor and short hoses are model-specific.

[CrankyOldMan]

The best thing to do is to get a 2 day subscription to the Toyota Tech Info site so that you can get the OEM repair manuals. Make sure you get the diagrams for ALL of the parts you're installing so that you have torque specs for the bolts.

Take a look at Brushforhire's thread for basic things that need to be done. The speed sending unit is most easily done by removing it from an existing Yaris wire harness, protecting it with wire loom/sleeves, and plugging it into the connector in the engine bay fusebox.

The Yaris radiator shroud has threaded inserts for mounting the xD radiator filler neck. They will probably need to be tapped to clean up the threads, but it's well worth it to have the right parts in the right place. The upper hose from the Yaris is too short, you will need the xD hose.

Tricky areas
Getting the engine to line up with the mounts and clear the subframe didn't go so well. I put a nice gouge and a 6" crack in the windshield where the load leveler collided with it. Damn.

I also pinched a CV boot in the process. The band was trapped between the subframe and the transmission, causing the grease to leak out. Damn damn.

The radiator hose clamps are evil incarnate. I spent at least 2 hours trying to get the lower hose connected back to the engine. I don't know what Toyota expects you to do with these things.

Lots of the wire harness brackets need to be swapped over, or otherwise improvised. Specifically, the one on the passenger strut tower and all of the ones on the gearbox.

The immobilizer has to be dealt with. There is LOTS of confusing information in the OEM wiring diagrams that will really mess with your head. Proceed with caution.

The Yaris shift cables are too short. The xD cables are a little too long. Better too long than short, I guess. I'm not sure where the problem is, since the shifter cages should be identical, and the gearbox cases are actually identical.

[brushforhire]

Very excited to see this happen! Congrats!

[tmontague]

Really lookin forward to this build. This is what i'll be using as my guide when I eventually need a new engine.

To clarify, can you use a Yaris oem clutch and pressure plate? Or is the 2zr one needed for this work?

I know the pressure plate is different for the 2zr but not sure about the clutch and pressure plate

[froger]

When I did the swap,I used a 09 corolla fly wheel and clutch assembly ,I originally wanted a celica gts 2zz flywheel and clutch assembly but ran out of money,settled for used low km corolla assembly, the splines on the input shaft on the yaris transmission are the same. But no I think the bolt pattern for the clutch is different on the yaris so it won't bolt up to xd fly wheel. PS if you have a factory immobiliser , you can't just use a non immobiliser ECU,won't start ,there is something in the body wiring harness.

[WeeYari]

When I did the swap

When did you swap?

[froger]

About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.

[WeeYari]

About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.

So you beat ArmstrongRacing to the swap which got exposure as the first US 2ZR-FE powered Yaris http://www.subcompactculture.com/201....html?m=1#more

Canada TRUMPS the United States (see what I did there)

[tmontague]

Cranky: do you have an immobilizer? I'm wondering what the difference would be for parts if one does the swap w/ an immobilizer. I'm assuming needing an ECU with an immobilizer plus the correct wiring harness

[froger]

In Canada most all Toyota's after 2007 came equipped with a immobiliser,I though initially it was just a matter of buying a American xd ECU with out a immobiliser but failed.(car no start)
After some research found that on immobiliser and non immobiliser engine wiring harness are the same but the body wiring harness is different,figure there is something in the harness that tells the engine ECU that there is a immobiliser ecu.didn't want to deal with dissecting harness so ended up changing engine ECU ,immobiliser ECU and keys( had to change second gen g keys).
NOTE: if you doing the swap don't use yaris shift cables,there too short(they will work),The new mounts push the tranmission forward by 2 inches ,ended up ripping out the studs off the body which hold the cables,two holes in body had to weld the studs back in.

[tmontague]

so ended up changing engine ECU ,immobiliser ECU and keys( had to change second gen g keys).
NOTE: if you doing the swap don't use yaris shift cables,there too short(they will work),The new mounts push the tranmission forward by 2 inches ,ended up ripping out the studs off the body which hold the cables,two holes in body had to weld the studs back in.

I'm confused as to what you did to get the immobilizer to work with the 2zr?

Are the 2zr shift cables compatible?

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awesome! Glad to see someone documenting this swap with the Yaris C50 trans!

The "first US swap" We did was with a Xd manual trans and shift cables, so we didnt use any Yaris clutch components.

I agree that using a auto trans harness is probably easiest, but you could also order a new manual trans Xd harness fron Toyota...I get a fat discount on Toyota parts so let me know if you guys need anything

[ArmstrongRacing]

About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.

lets see some pictures!!!

[froger]

All xd in Canada used a second generation immobiliser system so all the keys have a small G in graved on the key,my yaris had a first generation so it has a dot in graved on the key,couldn't get the old generation immobiliser to work with the xd ecu ,so just ended up getting a xd immobiliser ,xd computer and xd keys(chip is different). As for the shift cables yes xd cables are the only ones that work properly. It turns out the dimensions of the subframe are similar from what i figured,only difference is the xd subframe looks more reinforced,both cars even have same wheel base,so I also ended up using the xd sway bar as well ,it's thicker by a couple of mm.the distance of the sway bar is the same,both use same control arms ,knuckles and struts.so it possible to do a five bolt hub conversion as well ,only if you wanted to.

[froger]

The pictures are crap ,taken with crappy cell phone camera,also I don't have an Xd air box ,using a corolla air box for now.

[Jeff Lange]

About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.

Yeah, I think yours was finished around the end of July, 2014.

In Canada most all Toyota's after 2007 came equipped with a immobiliser

All vehicles build after 08/2007 in Canada are required to have an immobilizer, this includes Yaris and xD models. We didn't have xD until 2011, however ours did have immobilizer.

I though initially it was just a matter of buying a American xd ECU with out a immobiliser but failed.(car no start)
After some research found that on immobiliser and non immobiliser engine wiring harness are the same but the body wiring harness is different,figure there is something in the harness that tells the engine ECU that there is a immobiliser ecu.

Yes, the engine harness and engine ECU are the same for vehicles with and without immobilizer. All of the changes are on the body harness side. On froger's car he tried to remove the immobilizer wires heading into the ECU and disconnecting the immobilizer on the body side. According to all of the published wiring diagrams, everything was as it would be on a Yaris without immobilizer, however the ECU (from a non-immobilizer car), still threw a code for immobilizer.

didn't want to deal with dissecting harness so ended up changing engine ECU ,immobiliser ECU and keys( had to change second gen g keys).

Ended up using a 2011-12 xD 2ZR-FE engine ECU, 2011-2014 xD/Yaris Sedan immobilizer ECU with the newer 3rd-gen immobilizer keys ('G' mark - 89785-08040) to match the vehicle. May have been able to keep using the original immobilizer system if done properly, however I cannot recall what the issue with that was off the top of my head. I think froger just wanted to be sure and so he made everything match.

NOTE: if you doing the swap don't use yaris shift cables,there too short(they will work),The new mounts push the tranmission forward by 2 inches ,ended up ripping out the studs off the body which hold the cables,two holes in body had to weld the studs back in.

Yeah, the ZSP90 Yaris (factory 2ZR-equipped Yaris) used the same shift cables as the xD, so the xD cables were the proper ones to use. The NCP Yaris cables are shorter for sure.

Jeff

[ArmstrongRacing]

Wow! So much awesome information here!

[ArmstrongRacing]

Yeah, the ZSP90 Yaris (factory 2ZR-equipped Yaris) used the same shift cables as the xD, so the xD cables were the proper ones to use. The NCP Yaris cables are shorter for sure.

Jeff

This is not applicable to those just swapping in the 2zr and keeping the Yaris C50. If you use the Yaris trans and mounts, the stock shift cables are fine.

[Jeff Lange]

This is not applicable to those just swapping in the 2zr and keeping the Yaris C50. If you use the Yaris trans and mounts, the stock shift cables are fine.

It is applicable if using the 2ZR mounts, even if keeping the Yaris C50. Obviously if you keep using the 1NZ mounts the transmission will still be in the correct location to keep using the original cables.

Jeff

[ArmstrongRacing]

^ There is no need to use Xd mounts on a Yaris C50 trans in the first place. Let's not complicate this, people may get confused if this keeps getting mentioned...

If you have a:

Yaris sedan trans- Use Yaris mounts, (AT driver trans mount). Yaris shift cables. Yaris axles

Xd trans- Use Xd mounts. Xd Shift cables. Xd Axles

[Jeff Lange]

If you use the 2ZR RH mounting bracketry though, I would think it would strain the mounts and/or the engine will not be mounted completely in line with the axle center. I don't think using the Yaris mounts on the Yaris C50 is the best idea.

If the 2ZR sits further forward in the engine bay (which it does), using the 1NZ C50 mounts will keep the transmission side (3 mounts) in the original location, but the RH mount on the timing cover will want to push the engine forward. Unless you modified that or used the 2ZR transmission mounts and cable, it seems best not to mix and match, but I don't know how off it would actually be.

Jeff

[ArmstrongRacing]

OMG here we go....

[ArmstrongRacing]

They seem to have the same measurements

[froger]

Yo have use all three XD mounts for the swap ,if you just try to use the one XD Rh mount for the engine it puts just the engine lower ,So your engine and transmission will sit crooked. The Xd mounts are longer by couple inches and the lower middle stabilizer mount is longer as well.The lower middle stabilizer mount pushes the bottom part of the engine forward so the oil filter assembly clears the sub frame.All this is so that the 2zr engine sits lower because its taller.(You have to use all three mounts in order for the engine to sit right).
You can stretch the yaris shift cables to fit but it will end up ripping out the studs that hold the cables to the body.Use Xd mounts and Xd cables with the yaris c50 transmission, trust me the other combinations won't work properly.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Can you guys provide pictures of your Xd mounts and how your engine is "sitting"....Ill provide pictures of mine with Yaris mounts to compare and we can put this discussion to rest

[Jeff Lange]

LH in photo is 1NZ Yaris C50 mount, RH is 2ZR xD/Yaris C5x mount. You can visibly see the difference in the mounts. The transmission with the 2ZR sits lower/forward of where the 1NZ does.

http://i.imgur.com/ZsDaYGj.jpg

Is your swap a manual or an automatic?

Jeff

[Jeff Lange]

Toyota's diagrams also show the difference between the two mounts:

http://i.imgur.com/bZcHLQX.png

Jeff

[Jeff Lange]

I had already posted, but I think because I had linked to the images on another server it was moderating my posts? Not sure. I'll try uploading them to my server instead?

The RH mount is the Yaris 1NZ/C50 mount, the LH is the Yaris/xD 2ZR/C5x mount. You can see the difference in the mounts and how the 2ZR mount will move the transmission/engine primarily downward and a bit forward. The diagrams from Toyota show the same thing.

Was your swap an auto or a manual?

http://jeff.epicwelding.com/yaris_mounts1.jpg
http://jeff.epicwelding.com/yaris_mounts2.png

Jeff

[Jeff Lange]

I posted some pictures and info, seems like my posts with pictures are being moderated, so they will need to be approved before they can be seen.

Jeff

[WeeYari]

I posted some pictures and info, seems like my posts with pictures are being moderated, so they will need to be approved before they can be seen.

Jeff

Do a bit of post whoring. I think the magic number is 10 posts, then you can put pictures up for public consumption.

[Jeff Lange]

Interesting, well until the posts pop up, I'll just post a couple of links to be pics:

http://jeff.epicwelding.com/yaris_mounts1.jpg
http://jeff.epicwelding.com/yaris_mounts2.jpg

Jeff

[froger]

TOYOTA PART NUMBERS FOR TRANSMISSION CASE
2011 XD
MIDDLE CASE 33111-12260
BELL HOUSING 31105-52060
END CAP CASE 33102-52020
2011 YARIS
MIDDLE CASE 33111-12260
BELL HOUSING 31105-52060
END CAP CASE 33102-12021
END CAP PIECES ARE DIFFERENT BECAUSE THE XD TRANSMISSION MOUNT ALSO BOLTS TO THE SIDE OF THE TRANS MISSION.

The photos bellow are of Xd and Yaris mounts. Xd on the left and Yaris on the right and at the very bottom is a zoom up of the offset of the mount , Xd first,Yaris second.The height difference minimal but the engine seemed to be pushed forward by a bit .

[ArmstrongRacing]

Thanks for posting these!

So what I'm seeing here is that the LH Xd mount is different because of a difference in the two transmission end cases right? I find it strange that the main trans case is not different when the Xd has a larger differential and axles....and the pitch-stop mount being a bit longer is only pivoting the bottom of the trans away from the subframe(probably for clearance of the larger axles).

I still feel that you should use the mounts that go with your specific transmission, but it's your car...feel free to do what you want.

My car has been through 6 races so far, much more stress than any daily driver, I'll let you guys know if something breaks.

[froger]

Let's just agree both ways work , you thought my way didn't work and I thought your way didn't work,we both proved each other wrong.
I too will let everyone know if I have any problems with my car ,after all this information is for the engine swaps to come.

Daily driven and raced since the summer 2014.

[ArmstrongRacing]

I never thought your way didn't work, my argument from the beginning of this was that the mounts are similar and the differences are only transmission specific. I know your way works, but we don't want to tell everyone they "need" mounts and increase the cost of the swap for no reason.

On another note......you race too?! What type and where?

[CrankyOldMan]

When I did the swap,I used a 09 corolla fly wheel and clutch assembly ,I originally wanted a celica gts 2zz flywheel and clutch assembly but ran out of money,settled for used low km corolla assembly, the splines on the input shaft on the yaris transmission are the same. But no I think the bolt pattern for the clutch is different on the yaris so it won't bolt up to xd fly wheel.
Good to know!

PS if you have a factory immobiliser , you can't just use a non immobiliser ECU,won't start ,there is something in the body wiring harness.

Correct. There's a K-line communications wire that goes to the immobilizer ECU that needs to be disconnected.

[CrankyOldMan]

Cranky: do you have an immobilizer? I'm wondering what the difference would be for parts if one does the swap w/ an immobilizer. I'm assuming needing an ECU with an immobilizer plus the correct wiring harness

Yes, my 09 has an immobilizer. The research that I've done indicates that none of the US xDs came with one. - Caveat! My wiring research shows the 11+ wire harness as being wired for IMI/IMI signals. This could be to accommodate the Canadian requirement with a single wire harness. At toyodiy.com, there are no part numbers listed for the key transponder or key ECU. In the wiring diagrams, there are no immobilizer lines on the engine ECU (needs to be verified for 10+).

All that said, I want no part of screwing with matching keys to ECUs and stuff. The non-immo xD ECU will work just fine as long as the Yaris' key transponder K-line (brown wire) is disconnected. (Also needs to be verified)

[CrankyOldMan]

Holy crap, I've got a LONG way to go in gathering parts. I was planning on this being just a one-and-done weekend project, but it looks like there's some serious issues to address yet.

So to summarize the gearbox-and-mounts issues, here's my understanding. Please confirm/deny as appropriate.

Yaris C50 with Yaris trans mounts and xD RH motor mount: works, but may have long-term consequences for the axles due to alignment problems. May also cause problems with the exhaust?
Yaris C50 with all xD mounts: works? Requires xD shift cables. May require replacing the transmission endcap with the xD version to be compatible with the xD LH mount.
Complete xD drivetrain with mounts, shift cables: works. Requires xD hubs, forces conversion to 5x100 wheels.

[CrankyOldMan]

I found a pair of 09 Corollas at a you-pick yard an hour away. One had already been canibalized from the firewall forward, the other had the valve cover removed and was otherwise untouched. I suspect it had flood damage or something, because all of the accessories and externals were in REALLY bad shape. I picked up the injectors, intake manifold, throttle body and coil packs. Hopefully some of them will be salvageable, but if not, they will serve as cores. I got everything 50% off with the purchase of a 5 gal bucket for $5. Every sunday is "bucket day", so I'll be sure to stop out when the next 09 Corolla hits the lot (there's one waiting to go out). The passenger side tire was rusted to the hub, otherwise I would have grabbed the calipers and brackets.

I also ordered the engine mount last week, so that should be here in short order. I can't find a source for the shift cables, otherwise I would just get all of the brackets and be done with it.

[CrankyOldMan]

So I went and organized things in the shed yesterday, turns out that the reason the '09 Corolla was so badly rusted was that it was actually an '05 (1ZZ engine). Regrettably, that means the only thing compatible from my trip last weekend is the injectors. I did score a MAF sensor this weekend, so I've got a spare in case the super cheap one from Amazon marketplace doesn't work.

[froger]

Yes, my 09 has an immobilizer. The research that I've done indicates that none of the US xDs came with one. - Caveat! My wiring research shows the 11+ wire harness as being wired for IMI/IMI signals. This could be to accommodate the Canadian requirement with a single wire harness. At toyodiy.com, there are no part numbers listed for the key transponder or key ECU. In the wiring diagrams, there are no immobilizer lines on the engine ECU (needs to be verified for 10+).

All that said, I want no part of screwing with matching keys to ECUs and stuff. The non-immo xD ECU will work just fine as long as the Yaris' key transponder K-line (brown wire) is disconnected. (Also needs to be verified)

sorry I have not been reading lately but that was the first thing i tried was to disconnect imo and imi and run an american 2008 Scion XD ecu.tried it twice thinking the wreckers had broken the first one but both times there was a code for a mismatch ecu.Then I tried taking out the immobilizer ecu and then running an american xd engine ecu but this was also a no go.
So i came to the conclusion that there is more to the wiring then shown in the diagram,probably to prevent people from stealing and reprogramming your car. (the car would crank but would not fire up)
After this i decided to use a Canadian 2011 scion xd ecu with my 08 yaris immobilizer computer.This is where i screwed up ,when i de pinned the connector I elongated one of the pins(imi) so that it was no longer making contact with the ecu .(car would fire up for a second then die.) Thinking that the immobilizer ecu was incompatible I changed it to a 2011 immobilizer computer and key but still it had a communication error code . Then i retraced what i did and realized i needed new imi and imo pins .After I replaced them the car started up right away.I think I tried to start the car too many times with the screwed up communication lines because it locked me out,So it may work with a scion xd ecu and a 08 yaris immobilizer computer.

CAUTION
-After you get your ecu you have 10 tries to start the car before you are completely locked out from the immobilizer ecu.So it is very important to get everything hooked up right otherwise you could be buying another immobilizer computer.

[CrankyOldMan]

Bump for front page updates.

[RagnaCaT]

Cranky whats Up!!! Haven't been online lately but any info let me Know, I swapped out my 2009 XD 2ZRFE and dropped in a 2011 Corolla 2ZRFE it's the same but I'm working on the internals of the engine, port polish, cams, crank, rods and High comp pistons.

Also got my ECM reflashed and I'm taking the engine up to 7,100rpm with a nice powerband

[CrankyOldMan]

Cranky whats Up!!! Haven't been online lately but any info let me Know, I swapped out my 2009 XD 2ZRFE and dropped in a 2011 Corolla 2ZRFE it's the same but I'm working on the internals of the engine, port polish, cams, crank, rods and High comp pistons.

Also got my ECM reflashed and I'm taking the engine up to 7,100rpm with a nice powerband

Glad to see you back! ArmstrongRacing and I have been collaborating all year on my swap. I've got all the parts now, I just have to get a place to work on it and a few days off work.

Did you use an OEM ECM? I haven't heard of anyone actually reflashing it and showing the results. I'm really excited to see what you come up with. I've also got some terrible plans to get a turbo kit together for the 2ZR, but that's a few years down the road.

[RagnaCaT]

Glad to see you back! ArmstrongRacing and I have been collaborating all year on my swap. I've got all the parts now, I just have to get a place to work on it and a few days off work.

Did you use an OEM ECM? I haven't heard of anyone actually reflashing it and showing the results. I'm really excited to see what you come up with. I've also got some terrible plans to get a turbo kit together for the 2ZR, but that's a few years down the road.

Yeah and runs Great!!! Right there are 2 tuners re-flashing Alphaspeed and Wilson Chips the started not so long ago but results are improving... I'm going turbo also tuner said we can get it to run correctly reflashed so only time will tell... But going for High Compression small turbo set up so it's challenging

[CrankyOldMan]

Just an update--she runs like a champ! The exhaust still needs work, but the ECM has learned how to make her sing. I have to replace the coolant, as well as the fill neck and hoses, but that's all going to happen in the next few days. The DC sports intake manifold doesn't quite fit, so that also needs to be adjusted.

She also really likes to pull the race trailer. Toyota seemed to match the engine to the Corolla very well, so there's plenty of power available for cargo and passengers.

[RagnaCaT]

Sounds Great!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CrankyOldMan]

Bump for front page update (custom plate coming soon!).

I'm still loving this swap. She pulls hard all the way to redline, hits 70 without breaking a sweat, and wants to go faster.

The only issue I've had so far is the alternator pulley. It's an OAD type, and seems to fail pretty regularly. The used OEM alternator I bought lasted almost a month before the pulley died. I bought an aftermarket to replace it, and it's starting to fail as well. I've got the tools and parts to rebuild the first one, just have to make the time to do it.

[ern-diz]

Congrats, man. This swap is so cool. That license plate is awesome.

[ncp13]

Very nice man.

:biggrin:

[ilikerice]

So what did you do to get the immobilizer to communicate to the the ecu?

This is the only part that deters me from doing this swap on mine

[CrankyOldMan]

So what did you do to get the immobilizer to communicate to the the ecu?

This is the only part that deters me from doing this swap on mine

We (those that have recently done it) aren't publicly announcing the solution. It presents a possible security problem, and we'd rather only give the info to those that are actually at the point of installing the ECU.

If you need parts for the swap, ArmstrongRacing and I are putting together a "DIY kit" of OEM parts to make the hardest stuff to find a little easier to get in one shot.

[tmontague]

Rice, if you're on the fence about the swap and the immo is the only thing holding you back, I'll be doing mine in a few weeks or so (as long as it doesn't drop to zero below). I have an immo but will be installing a non immo xd ecu so I will be by passing it and will be not using my immo once the swap is done.

I can let you know how it goes and if everything worked out fine. As stated above, I won't be publicly stating the solution but I will at least be able to vouche for how it works and hopefully set your mind at ease.

The guys who have put in the time and have already done the swap have been extremely helpful and are always willing to pass on their learned knowledge. Rest assured you won't be left hanging trying to figure out the immo on your own.

[invader166]

How is the new engine in terms of fuel economy? I'm curious to see if you can get compareble milage with the regular 1NZ.

I've heard that some 2014+ Corollas have a different 2ZR engine with dual VVT-i and lift control (called Valvematic) which is supposed to improve fuel economy even more and add 8 hp on top of the regular 2ZR!

[CrankyOldMan]

I don't have the second O2 sensor hooked up, so it runs a bit rich. Fuel economy at WOT all the time is comparable to the 1NZ with a Blitz supercharger. XD

[tmontague]

any chance you can give a description of how you added the wire to the fuse box from the fuse to the connector?

Does the fuse box just lift up to give you access? I like the clean look of it

[CrankyOldMan]

any chance you can give a description of how you added the wire to the fuse box from the fuse to the connector?

Does the fuse box just lift up to give you access? I like the clean look of it

Take a look at the pictures on the front page. It's hard to get a good shot though, because it's all black plastic. Basically, I just populated one of the empty fuse slots and plugged the other end into the empty position on the connector. You have to separate the two bottom parts. There's 7 or 8 tabs that hold them together, and it's more easily accomplished with the fuse box unbolted from the frame. If you get one from a junk yard and break it down, it will make much more sense. I think just about any Toyota fuse box would be OK, but a Yaris or Echo would be best.

[tmontague]

thanks. So the female end of the wire is what the new fuse (in the original empty slot) would plug into and then the male end goes under and then up into the connector for the power to the maf, correct?

I think I'm going to my local you pull as I have yet to stop in and it is only about 5 mins from my place. They much have a yaris in their massive lot, or at the very least a corolla. I have yet to pull a fuse box so I want to familiarize myself with what I'm working with before I pull my own

[CrankyOldMan]

thanks. So the female end of the wire is what the new fuse (in the original empty slot) would plug into and then the male end goes under and then up into the connector for the power to the maf, correct?
Correct.

I think I'm going to my local you pull as I have yet to stop in and it is only about 5 mins from my place. They much have a yaris in their massive lot, or at the very least a corolla. I have yet to pull a fuse box so I want to familiarize myself with what I'm working with before I pull my own

Lots of yards have online listing of their availability. I've also got one in my spare parts bin if you just want to play with it.

[ilikerice]

Rice, if you're on the fence about the swap and the immo is the only thing holding you back, I'll be doing mine in a few weeks or so (as long as it doesn't drop to zero below). I have an immo but will be installing a non immo xd ecu so I will be by passing it and will be not using my immo once the swap is done.

I can let you know how it goes and if everything worked out fine. As stated above, I won't be publicly stating the solution but I will at least be able to vouche for how it works and hopefully set your mind at ease.

The guys who have put in the time and have already done the swap have been extremely helpful and are always willing to pass on their learned knowledge. Rest assured you won't be left hanging trying to figure out the immo on your own.

Thanks man. Once this crx is out my garage, I plan on getting a 2zr and start building it up and collecting the parts I will need.

[CrankyOldMan]

ArmstrongRacing and I will be happy to assist in any way we can!

[ArmstrongRacing]

I plan on getting a 2zr and start building it up and collecting the parts I will need.

YES!

[ArmstrongRacing]

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