2007 Toyota Yaris Died and won't start

[Cigar_Maverick]

Good evening!
I purchased my Yaris a couple months back and have had no major issues with it. It has 110,000 miles on it. Tonight, leaving work, I made it a block away before it died and would not start.

Luckily, I was able to coast it back to the building and get it off the road. I have been reading a few posts on here trying to get a starting place. I saw this page as well: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45663

First off, it cranks fine. The engine light didn't come on. I don't have an Engine Immobiliser System. I checked all of the fuses by the battery and didn't see any problems.

I can sit in the car and put the key in the "Run" position. Should I hear the pump run for a second or two? Because I don't.

On sitting here reading these, in the past, occasionally it has cranked a bit more than I thought normal before starting. But having bought it used, I didn't have a "gauge" as to what is normal.

The car is a 5 spd hatchback if that helps any. I'm going to borrow a company car to go home and look at this tomorrow.

[bronsin]

Is the check engine light on?

If it is you need to be able to read the codes.

[Cigar_Maverick]

No check engine light.

[Bluevitz-rs]

You're going to need a volt meter.

Check for power on both sides of all the fuses for one.

EFI and I think it's AM2 are essential.

Also, Check all the grounds bolted to the head on the engine. On my '05 the computer is grounded there. When I changed my engine I forgot to tighten it down and at random, 3000km later it came just loose enough to kill my car after I had been driving for 45 min.

[thebarber]

will it bump start?

[07liftback]

Sounds like it's your alternator. If you can, try testing the battery to see what the voltage is then take it out and put it on a battery charger. When you put it back in your car and start it, unplug the negative terminal on the battery while the car is running. If the car dies out, it's definitely your alternator. You can probably find one on ebay or a local junkyard for a reasonable price.

[Cigar_Maverick]

You're going to need a volt meter.

Check for power on both sides of all the fuses for one.

EFI and I think it's AM2 are essential.

Also, Check all the grounds bolted to the head on the engine. On my '05 the computer is grounded there. When I changed my engine I forgot to tighten it down and at random, 3000km later it came just loose enough to kill my car after I had been driving for 45 min.

Bluevitz-rs, I'll grab a volt meter. Are the fuses I need to check under the hood or under the dash? I found this fuse "Map" http://www.autogenius.info/toyota-yaris-mk2-2007-fuse-box-diagram/ Which ones do I need to check?

I'll locate the grounds and check them. Any idea where they are on a 2007 Hatchback?

will it bump start?
thebarber, When I realized it had died, I tried that while it was coasting. I couldn't get it to go.

Sounds like it's your alternator. If you can, try testing the battery to see what the voltage is then take it out and put it on a battery charger. When you put it back in your car and start it, unplug the negative terminal on the battery while the car is running. If the car dies out, it's definitely your alternator. You can probably find one on ebay or a local junkyard for a reasonable price.

07liftback, The car cranks really well, but won't start. If it was the alternator, would the battery still be "UP?" Also, I'm going to have to figure out how to start it before I can unplug the negative terminal.

Like I said, when I cycle power I don't hear the fuel pump. Not sure if that is normal or not. If it is normal, I wonder if it is something like a crank position sensor?

[Bluevitz-rs]

With the key in the RUN position, what light do you have on on the dash.

[Cigar_Maverick]

With the key in the RUN position, what light do you have on on the dash.

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z461/rmorman1/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris/2007%20Yaris%20Gauge%20lights%20Compressed.jpg (http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/rmorman1/media/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris/2007%20Yaris%20Gauge%20lights%20Compressed.jpg.htm l)

Looks to be the oil light, check engine light, brake light (emergency brake is on), battery light and cool engine light.

Not that it matters, but ignore the clock. In a desperate attempt last night to not have to take a company car home, I removed the ground from the battery for a few minutes in a futile attempt to get the car to start.

[WeeYari]

Looks to be the oil light, check engine light, brake light (emergency brake is on), battery light and cool engine light.



All normal.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Ok it's probably not computer problem. You'll need to pull the rear seat cousin and fuel pump cover and check for power as you crank the engine at the fuel pump.

[Cigar_Maverick]

Ok it's probably not computer problem. You'll need to pull the rear seat cousin and fuel pump cover and check for power as you crank the engine at the fuel pump.

OK, That sounds easy enough. Gonna use AAA to get it towed back from work to my shop at home and get to it tonight/this week. I'll be in touch as to my results. I did download the service manual that somebody posted, so I hopefully will have a leg up getting to the fuel pump to test it.

Any particular threads in the forum stand out as to a guide for doing this as well? Sometimes the service manual can be a bit Greek to me when it comes to electrical testing.

From this:http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45663
I got this: For the wires on the fuel pump itself, the black wire is +12 and the white/black is ground.

Thanks again,
Russ

[Cigar_Maverick]

Good evening!
Got the car home and removed the bottom seat cushion. Pried up the cover.

Note: do I need to apply any adhesive to reapply the cover?

Then I blew out the area with an air gun to remove dust/dirt.

This picture is of zero voltage with the ignition off:

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z461/rmorman1/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris/2007%20Yaris%20Engine%20idle.jpg (http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/rmorman1/media/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris/2007%20Yaris%20Engine%20idle.jpg.html)


This is a picture while the engine is cranking:

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z461/rmorman1/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris/2007%20Yaris%20Engine%20Cranking.jpg (http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/rmorman1/media/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris/2007%20Yaris%20Engine%20Cranking.jpg.html)


Based on this, is it safe to assume the pump is shot? If so, I can hopefully get one on order for weekend delivery.

If I'm to get a fuel pump, I'll likely shop Rockauto.com. Looking at two options

CARTER P76424 {#2322021132}

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT SP9031M


The 2nd option is a complete kit and the 1st is a Pump & Strainer Set. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Russ

[Bluevitz-rs]

Next would be to confirm there's no fuel pressure. If you can open the big screw thing to get the pump out and confirm it isn't running and there's no fuel pressure first. Better to be 100% sure the pump is dead.

[Cigar_Maverick]

Next would be to confirm there's no fuel pressure. If you can open the big screw thing to get the pump out and confirm it isn't running and there's no fuel pressure first. Better to be 100% sure the pump is dead.

So that I could have it prior to the weekend, I did order the pump. I can always ship it back.

Is there a particular thread that discusses checking for pressure at the pump? In an entirely scientific way (sarcasm intended), I put my ear down to the "Big screw thing" while the engine cranked and didn't hear anything. I don't know how loud they SHOULD be as I've never listened for one on a Yaris before. Betting they are way quieter than my Holley external pump on my Monte Carlo! :biggrin:

[Bluevitz-rs]

You should be able to hear a hum at least.

Did you try a continuity test of the pump itself? I haven't heard of one burning out but you never know.

Also there is a fuel filter on the end of the pump you should replace if you're going in there.

[dogsridewith]

To remove the rear seat cushion on my 2007 hatchback, I looked under and found two large white plastic clip heads that could be squeezed just so to allow them, and the seat cushion, to lift up away from the frame. Then exposing all bolts to remove the seat entirely. (No adhesive encountered, but not saying there never was any on this cushion.)
(Seat is one piece back type. One piece bottom, belts for 3 passengers)

[WeeYari]

Potentially messy, but could one not just disconnect the fuel rail and see if gas is flowing there?

[Bluevitz-rs]

Potentially messy, but could one not just disconnect the fuel rail and see if gas is flowing there?

Yeah you could just pump it into a bucket. You just need the tool to disconnect the line.

[CTScott]

So that I could have it prior to the weekend, I did order the pump. I can always ship it back.

Is there a particular thread that discusses checking for pressure at the pump? In an entirely scientific way (sarcasm intended), I put my ear down to the "Big screw thing" while the engine cranked and didn't hear anything. I don't know how loud they SHOULD be as I've never listened for one on a Yaris before. Betting they are way quieter than my Holley external pump on my Monte Carlo! :biggrin:

The Yaris pump is very noisy, so if you can't hear it from above it isn't running.

[Cigar_Maverick]

The Yaris pump is very noisy, so if you can't hear it from above it isn't running.

Should I perform any further tests or just wait for the fuel pump to arrive from RockAuto?

We were in the shop at home. No external noises, aside from the engine cranking, to cover the noise of the fuel pump. It was not running.

I guess if there is power to the pump while the engine is cranking, and there isn't a hum from the tank, then that seems a pretty strong sign the pump is shot.

I figured if it was something else, I could return the fuel pump.

Before I dunk the new pump in the tank, I can hook it up and see if it comes on.

Anything else I should be checking or doing while I have this open?

Thanks,
Russ

[Cigar_Maverick]

Update:
Went and bought a Lisle - Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool (http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=575) after figuring the retainer was NOT coming off without something. Followed the instructions on the manual I downloaded from here to replace the pump. With the tool, the entire thing was only about a 1 hour procedure. In the end, the Yaris fired right up and pulled itself out of the shop under it's own power. Success! Now just need to take it out on the road for a test drive.

Thanks to all who helped me.

Russ

[WeeYari]

:thumbsup:

So can you now hear the fuel pump activating? To be honest, I can't say as I've ever taken note of any fuel pump "sounds" coming from mine. No idea what it should be sounding like. Maybe one day I'll try to listen for it.

[bronsin]

Excellent!:thumbsup:

[Bluevitz-rs]

Awesome. Glad you were able to fix it yourself too.

[Cigar_Maverick]

Even buying a tool I'd HOPEFULLY only have to use once, I think I came out WAY ahead. $266.78 (RockAuto) for the pump (including expedited shipping) and $42 for the tool (sourced locally). One major chain store had the pump @ $400! Can't IMAGINE what going to a professional shop would have cost.

Now I just need to build my confidence by taking it for a drive.

On a side note, I'm curious as to if the weak pump affected fuel economy. Time will tell.

So can you now hear the fuel pump activating? To be honest, I can't say as I've ever taken note of any fuel pump "sounds" coming from mine. No idea what it should be sounding like. Maybe one day I'll try to listen for it.

Yup. I could hear it before I put the seat cushion and metal cover on & the car running. Also, occasionally, it will cycle quickly when I put the key in the "ON" position. Not all the time though. Guessing there is a pressure sensor that lets the pump know if it needs to pressurize the fuel system?

Russ

[jra]

I think the first thing I would check is if it is getting spark at the plugs.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I think the first thing I would check is if it is getting spark at the plugs.

:clap:

[WeeYari]

I think the first thing I would check is if it is getting spark at the plugs.


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